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Posted

Can anyone direct me to instructions to change my own oil in my 2005 Royal Star Tour Deluxe? I'm really tired of paying the dealer. Any recommendations on choosing the best oil? I'm in So. California and have 40,000 miles on my scoot.

Bruce Lamarche

Posted (edited)

The drain plug is under the engine and the filter is below and behind the right lower fairing. You will need a filter wrench or a strap wrench to remove the filter. Very simple process. I always drain the oil first and then move the pan below the filter before removing. The plug is a 19mm (I think), do not over tighten when replacing the plug. There have been numerous cases of stripping the threads. If you are going to do maintenance on your ride, you might want to get the shop manual for it or go to the tech articles on VR.

 

:farmer:

 

Also: Don't ask what kind of oil to use because you will get 100 answers. There is nothing wrong with staying with Yamalube.

Edited by Sylvester
Had to add the oil clause!
Posted (edited)

Oil changes are very easy to do.

Do what Sylvester stated .

The drain plug is a 17 MM and the filter is under the middle of the radiator tucked up so you will have to look up for it. Drain all oil until just dripping.

To fill

Install new fillter hand tight then 1/4 turn more,Remove the screw in plug on the right side of the motor in the clutch case. Fill with any MOTORCYCLE OIL and you should only use MOTORCYCLE OIL with about 3 1/4 qts. Start the bike up with the screw in plug put back in and let run for a min. or two. Shut down wait three min and see were the oil is in your site glass right side of the motor low towards the front under water pump cover WHEN THE BIKE IS STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN.I use a mirrow to see the site glass This should be between the 1/2 way full to 3/4 full no more or oil will come out you vent tube from the air cleaners.If not high enough add a little more oil until you see it in this area of the site glass.

THat is all you have to do

:thumbsup2:

Edited by bikenut
spelling I suck at that as you can see
Posted

There is alot more to changing the oil than just changing the oil. Take a look at your owners manual and or service manual and jump in . There isn't to much you cant do. It will just take you longer than the dealer. I doubt the dealer does all that is necessary.

Posted

"Remove the screw in plug on the right side of the motor in the clutch case. .... Start the bike up with the screw in plug put back in and let run for a min."

I think he is talking about the fill plug...

 

BTW maybe because I use the "long" Purilator filter my RSV holds almost the whole gallon of Rotella synthetic.

 

Posted
"Remove the screw in plug on the right side of the motor in the clutch case. .... Start the bike up with the screw in plug put back in and let run for a min."

 

I think he is talking about the fill plug...

 

 

Yes, I realized that afterwards ... got my left and right mixed up ... so I deleted my post LOL

Posted
Yes, I realized that afterwards ... got my left and right mixed up ... so I deleted my post LOL

Probably because you speak in English but think in Canadian! :rasberry:

Posted (edited)

Here is a service manual free for the Venture but both are same to change the oil.

Hope this helps

http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/index.cfm

 

Section 3 page 23 for the oil change info need to change it.

:fingers-crossed-emo

And yes I was talking about the fill plug. Thanks for pointing that out for him.

Just hard to type what you do all the time with the right words.

Have a great day everyone and get out and ride.

Edited by bikenut
forgot the section and page
Posted
Probably because you speak in English but think in Canadian! :rasberry:

 

watch it Jack .. I'll sic Nina on ya ... wait, never mind, you'd prolly like that LMAO ... eh

Posted
There is alot more to changing the oil than just changing the oil. Take a look at your owners manual and or service manual and jump in . There isn't to much you cant do. It will just take you longer than the dealer. I doubt the dealer does all that is necessary.

 

 

I don't understand the above post. It takes about 10 minutes to change oil on the RSTD. A lot of people use Rotella 15W40 oil. You can't use car oil because some of the additives can make the clutch slip.

Posted
There is alot more to changing the oil than just changing the oil. Take a look at your owners manual and or service manual and jump in . There isn't to much you cant do. It will just take you longer than the dealer. I doubt the dealer does all that is necessary.

 

I don't understand the above post. It takes about 10 minutes to change oil on the RSTD. A lot of people use Rotella 15W40 oil. You can't use car oil because some of the additives can make the clutch slip.

 

To answer...

 

He's referring to the part that involves having a few buddies over and downing a few brewskys while ya'll take turns discussing the pros and cons of oil types and methods of replacing the filter.

 

:sign20:

Posted

If you have never changed oil before I recommend you have a friend help you with it the first time. It is not hard but you may also want to check a few other things. At 40k you might be due for a set of plugs and the air filter should be checked for sure. The steering head,drive train and tires could also use a look see. Once you have been walked through this stuff it is all pretty easy.

Mike

Posted
I don't understand the above post. It takes about 10 minutes to change oil on the RSTD. QUOTE]

 

Your not just changing oil but you should be doing a service along with that. There are 18 things to check or service according to the general maintaince chart. But, you knew that!

 

Ok, I know its 17 but the last step is popping the beer cause you got it done for about 150 bucks less than the dealer charges!:happy65:

P.s just did my 28k today.. First time to try rotella t 15w40. Took me about 4hrs cause no one was here to help me drink my brewskys !

Posted

I just wonder how many of the dealers check all them at every oil change.

The best one is the final drive gear lube is to be changed every 16000 miles. I change mine every oil change and that stuff is black every time I drain it. You can get almost 4 oil changes out of a quart so I change it all the time.

Just me. I do not like dirty oil in anything.

 

Go out and ride and have a fun day.

Later:thumbsup2:

Posted
I just wonder how many of the dealers check all them at every oil change.

The best one is the final drive gear lube is to be changed every 16000 miles. I change mine every oil change and that stuff is black every time I drain it. You can get almost 4 oil changes out of a quart so I change it all the time.

Just me. I do not like dirty oil in anything.

 

Go out and ride and have a fun day.

Later:thumbsup2:

 

just an fyi ... the color of the oil (and especially gear lube that's 80/90 wt) has nothing to do with it's ability to lubricate. The fact that it is black does not necessarilly mean it is "dirty". You can put clean oil into almost any engine, take it out for a spin and by the time you're back, it will look black.

 

Everyone is entitled to their choices and opinions but IMHO, changing the final drive oil every time you change the engine oil is just overkill ... a waste of time and money.

Posted

Lot's of good info.

But the nicest thing is that changing oil/filter on the RSTD is the easiest on any bike I have ever had.

 

You have one bolt that is on the down side when on the kick stand.

(My R* had 2, My Strat has 3!) No need for a jack.

You don't have to put in half oil now, start it and 1/2 later, like the R* and Strat.

 

I use a large channel locks to remove the old filter (if needed).

The only special tool you may want is a mechanics mirror on a stick, to check the new level.

 

It's easy, so by all means do this at home.

Posted
Lot's of good info.

But the nicest thing is that changing oil/filter on the RSTD is the easiest on any bike I have ever had.

 

You have one bolt that is on the down side when on the kick stand.

(My R* had 2, My Strat has 3!) No need for a jack.

You don't have to put in half oil now, start it and 1/2 later, like the R* and Strat.

 

I use a large channel locks to remove the old filter (if needed).

The only special tool you may want is a mechanics mirror on a stick, to check the new level.

 

It's easy, so by all means do this at home.

I have to agree. This is one of the easiest bikes I've ever had to change the oil and filter on. I have a strap wrench I use for the filter. While the oil is draining after I warm it up I check everthing else over.

Posted

I also change the gear oil with every oil change or at least every other. Gear oil is cheap. Every time I change it, it's dark and smells burnt.

Posted

FLB n78

I have to agree with you 100%

it is CHEAP AND ONLY TAKE ME ABOUT 5 MIN'S TO DO THE JOB. Better safe then sorry.

Think what the gear lube would like at 16000 miles when we do it every 4000. It would be like tar.

Just my opinion.

Have a great day everyone I am leaving on my trip today from Wis down to Blue Ridge , to Florida,to Mississippi and back up along the Mississippi river in 9 days.

Have a good one until we get back:Venture:

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