Installed Electric brakes

[kbran]

I installed some 7" electric brakes on the Timeout camper and tried it out yesterday and I really like. I used the Podigy controller and have it set with no noticable pull on the bike, the trailer feels like it is stopping with the bike. Stops or much better and quicker. I tried a few 60mph emergency stops and she stops good and smooth. Down hill don't feel the trailer pushing me. I know some will not agree with doing this but I feel much better having them on with a 345# trailer. Another thing is I mounted the controler on the trailer with the hot wire comming from the battery with a switch mounted on the bike where I can cut it off if needed (flat tire, slow manuvering , one brake quits working etc.) I found this idea on delphi motorcycle trailer forum and many on there have there's mounted this way with no ill effects.

My computer is down so I'll post some pics later.

[tsigwing]

I installed some 7" electric brakes on the Timeout camper and tried it out yesterday and I really like. I used the Podigy controller and have it set with no noticable pull on the bike, the trailer feels like it is stopping with the bike. Stops or much better and quicker. I tried a few 60mph emergency stops and she stops good and smooth. Down hill don't feel the trailer pushing me. I know some will not agree with doing this but I feel much better having them on with a 345# trailer. Another thing is I mounted the controler on the trailer with the hot wire comming from the battery with a switch mounted on the bike where I can cut it off if needed (flat tire, slow manuvering , one brake quits working etc.) I found this idea on delphi motorcycle trailer forum and many on there have there's mounted this way with no ill effects.

My computer is down so I'll post some pics later.

 

Where did you get them, how hard and how much?

[dmoff1698]

I installed some 7" electric brakes on the Timeout camper and tried it out yesterday and I really like. I used the Podigy controller and have it set with no noticable pull on the bike, the trailer feels like it is stopping with the bike. Stops or much better and quicker. I tried a few 60mph emergency stops and she stops good and smooth. Down hill don't feel the trailer pushing me. I know some will not agree with doing this but I feel much better having them on with a 345# trailer. Another thing is I mounted the controler on the trailer with the hot wire comming from the battery with a switch mounted on the bike where I can cut it off if needed (flat tire, slow manuvering , one brake quits working etc.) I found this idea on delphi motorcycle trailer forum and many on there have there's mounted this way with no ill effects.

My computer is down so I'll post some pics later.

 

I also have the Timeout camper with the brakes that I got from 1-UP, but have never hooked the brakes to the bike.

 

First, I couldn't figure a good mounting place on the bike for the controler. Second, my controler does not look water proof so would have to be put into some type of container.

 

I considered puting the controler on the trailer and just running power wire to it, but I still have the issue with water. Also, since I have never pulled or set up electric brakes, I am unsure how accessable the controler needs to be to the driver.

 

Not sure I would spend the extra cash to add brakes to a trailer, but since I already have the brakes, I would like to use them.

[dmoff1698]

Where did you get them, how hard and how much?

 

The brakes and axles on the Timeout camper are 7" brakes made by Dexter Axle. From Timeout, the brakes are a $495 option at the time of sale. No mention of aftermarket sales.

 

According to the Dexter web site: http://www.dexteraxle.com

this is what they say on their FAQ page:

"BRAKES - Can brakes be added to an idler axle?

Adding brakes to an idler axle is relatively easy if the idler axle is equipped with the brake mounting flanges (the plate to which the brake is bolted). About half of the trailer manufacturers decide not to put the flanges on their idler axles to reduce their cost. If the axle does have flanges, you need both a RH and a LH brake assembly as well as two hub and drums to replace the plain hubs currently on the axle. If the axle is not equipped with flanges, you will need to purchase a new axle beam with brake flanges attached by Dexter Axle."

 

You should also know what Dexter says about towing behind a motorcycle:

"BRAKES - Can brakes be used on trailers towed by motorcycles?

Dexter Axle does not recommend the use of brakes on small touring trailers designed to be pulled by motorcycles. Proper control of the brakes on these vehicles can be very difficult. Even the slightest imbalance of the trailer brakes might cause the rider to lose control. A secondary issue is the spontaneous and unexpected actuation of the brakes. This can occur when a Torflex axle is not fully loaded. Under this condition, the torsion arm is not rotated to its normal position, which puts the brake assembly out of level. If the axle is fitted with electric brakes, this non-level condition can result in unexpected brake actuation when the trailer encounters large bumps. This can occur because the magnet inside the brake has sufficient mass to move the actuating lever during extreme jounce situations. The farther the brake assembly is rotated out of level, the greater the chance that this spontaneous action can take place."

 

They sell the brakes to Timeout, but don't recomend using them???:confused24:

Maybe because the load in a camper is relatively constant, the axle can be positioned so this is not an issue.

[Flyinfool]

First off, the only companies that do not specifically recommend against using their product for a MC trailer are the companies that specifically make a product for MC trailers.

 

None of the MC manufacturers recommend pulling a trailer.

All MC trailers and supplies are aftermarket.

 

Dexter is just doing the CYA since it is not recommended to even have a trailer on a bike in the first place.

Although I can see the possible issue with a torque flex axle.

 

When I build my trailer I plan to have brakes.

I like the idea of putting the controller in the trailer. It will just be a bit of a pain to set it up correctly.

[kbran]

Ok some answeres to questions, the elelctric brakes and drums came from here http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/items.asp?Cc=BRAKES%2DE&Bc=&parts=Brake+Electric+Drum+

the controller came from here http://www.adventurerv.net/tekonsha-prodigy-trailer-camper-brake-control-p-1432.html all for less than $300.

Brakes can be added if the axel has the flat four hole mounitng flang already welded to the axel and the timeout has that on a dexter axel as that is what they use. They are not hard to install at all. Parts come with instructions and wiring diagrams. I mounted the controller in a water proof container with a snap lid about 8" x 4" x 3" deep from walmart, like the kind you would store leftover food in, clear with a red rubber looking seal and snap lid. I mounted it under the tounge facing the same way as you would on the dash of car bolted thru the lid and the container snapped on from the bottom. I'll have some pics later. Setting up the controller is easy, I did it a little diffrent since no access on the bike, while jacked up I started low with the setting and pulled the manual lever and rotate the tire with someone turning it until just before it locked up, ended up with about 7 volts on the indicator. Then took the trailer out on the road with little trafic and started at 20 to 40mph and made stops to make sure it didn't lock up and keep increasing speed and testing. If adjustments were needed pull over and snap lid off and turn the wheel a little till it stops with out pulling on the bike. I'll admit it was mostly by feel but I can from about 70mph make a hard emergency stop and the trailer is stopping with the bike, no pull or push from the trailer.

[slick97spirit]

The brakes and axles on the Timeout camper are 7" brakes made by Dexter Axle. From Timeout, the brakes are a $495 option at the time of sale. No mention of aftermarket sales.

 

According to the Dexter web site: http://www.dexteraxle.com

this is what they say on their FAQ page:

"BRAKES - Can brakes be added to an idler axle?

Adding brakes to an idler axle is relatively easy if the idler axle is equipped with the brake mounting flanges (the plate to which the brake is bolted). About half of the trailer manufacturers decide not to put the flanges on their idler axles to reduce their cost. If the axle does have flanges, you need both a RH and a LH brake assembly as well as two hub and drums to replace the plain hubs currently on the axle. If the axle is not equipped with flanges, you will need to purchase a new axle beam with brake flanges attached by Dexter Axle."

 

You should also know what Dexter says about towing behind a motorcycle:

"BRAKES - Can brakes be used on trailers towed by motorcycles?

Dexter Axle does not recommend the use of brakes on small touring trailers designed to be pulled by motorcycles. Proper control of the brakes on these vehicles can be very difficult. Even the slightest imbalance of the trailer brakes might cause the rider to lose control. A secondary issue is the spontaneous and unexpected actuation of the brakes. This can occur when a Torflex axle is not fully loaded. Under this condition, the torsion arm is not rotated to its normal position, which puts the brake assembly out of level. If the axle is fitted with electric brakes, this non-level condition can result in unexpected brake actuation when the trailer encounters large bumps. This can occur because the magnet inside the brake has sufficient mass to move the actuating lever during extreme jounce situations. The farther the brake assembly is rotated out of level, the greater the chance that this spontaneous action can take place."

 

They sell the brakes to Timeout, but don't recomend using them???:confused24:

Maybe because the load in a camper is relatively constant, the axle can be positioned so this is not an issue.

 

 

Sounds like CYA to me!!

[dmoff1698]

About the CYA part. Still, selling a part that they say is unsafe to use?

 

I know, they are shifting the liability to Timeout or other distributers. BTW I have delt with Dexter before and they seem like good people with quick service.

 

Kenny, I may give your method of setting up the brakes a try but will have to run a power wire first. Once you get the controler adjusted the way you want it, are you done? Do they need peroidic readjustment?

[saddlebum]

The way I see it if your worried just lighten up on the adjustment, even a small amount of trailer brake has to be better than no trailer brake at all

[Squidley]

I think it was an excellent move on your part Kenny. I have repeatedly said that if I were to have that bike and heavy a trailer behind me I'd want electric brakes on it. It's not about you being a good rider it's about the cagers that are idiots....good on ya buddy!

[kbran]

The brakes and axles on the Timeout camper are 7" brakes made by Dexter Axle. From Timeout, the brakes are a $495 option at the time of sale. No mention of aftermarket sales.

 

According to the Dexter web site: http://www.dexteraxle.com

this is what they say on their FAQ page:

"BRAKES - Can brakes be added to an idler axle?

Adding brakes to an idler axle is relatively easy if the idler axle is equipped with the brake mounting flanges (the plate to which the brake is bolted). About half of the trailer manufacturers decide not to put the flanges on their idler axles to reduce their cost. If the axle does have flanges, you need both a RH and a LH brake assembly as well as two hub and drums to replace the plain hubs currently on the axle. If the axle is not equipped with flanges, you will need to purchase a new axle beam with brake flanges attached by Dexter Axle."

 

You should also know what Dexter says about towing behind a motorcycle:

"BRAKES - Can brakes be used on trailers towed by motorcycles?

Dexter Axle does not recommend the use of brakes on small touring trailers designed to be pulled by motorcycles. Proper control of the brakes on these vehicles can be very difficult. Even the slightest imbalance of the trailer brakes might cause the rider to lose control. A secondary issue is the spontaneous and unexpected actuation of the brakes. This can occur when a Torflex axle is not fully loaded. Under this condition, the torsion arm is not rotated to its normal position, which puts the brake assembly out of level. If the axle is fitted with electric brakes, this non-level condition can result in unexpected brake actuation when the trailer encounters large bumps. This can occur because the magnet inside the brake has sufficient mass to move the actuating lever during extreme jounce situations. The farther the brake assembly is rotated out of level, the greater the chance that this spontaneous action can take place."

 

They sell the brakes to Timeout, but don't recomend using them???:confused24:

Maybe because the load in a camper is relatively constant, the axle can be positioned so this is not an issue.

On the trailer forum someone said they had a problem going into gas stations with curbs on the road and the brakes grabbing slightly, hence the switch on the power line to turn them off in slow manuvers into an area where it may bounce, others say they have not run into this. If you were to get on an extremly bumpy road and had to slow down anyway turn the brakes off.

To answere your other question on once set, I set mine empty and then loaded the trailer and couldn't tell much difference. I then tried boost 1 which gives 13% more initial brakeing and that worked ok. But on small trailers the load for a trip isn't going to change that much, it's not like you are hauling an empty trailer and then putting a tractor on it. These brakes or 7" x 1 1/4", they also sell 7" x 1 3/4" that are a little more aggressive. They don't grab that much.

 

The way I see it if your worried just lighten up on the adjustment, even a small amount of trailer brake has to be better than no trailer brake at all

Mine are basicly set that way, not that heavy. I just want the trailer to stop with the bike, not push or pull the bike.

[kbran]

My internet is still down at home, so I brought a few pics to work. You can see the 4hole square plate that needs to be on the axle for bolting down the electric break behind the drum. And the plastic box from walmart to mount the controller in. I just bolted the bracket for the controller thru the lid to the bottom of the tounge under the ice chest then drilled a 1/2" hole for the wire harness in the box. Works good and can drop the box to make adjustmens if needed.

[Flyinfool]

I like it!

Have you tried loading up the trailer to see how it works?

Once you adjust the brakes for a heavy trailer, will it lock up with an empty trailer?

 

I have checked far and wide for that plate that gets welded to the axle, seems no one will sell it separate. Everyone will make me an axle to fit my trailer. I guess that I will have to make my own plates.

 

Do you have the ability to get in there enough to measure the thickness of the plate that is on the axle? I can get the rest of the dimensions from the mating parts. Then just need to find out if the drums are available to match the HF spindles. Maybe I will end up with a whole new axle after all.

[dmoff1698]

Looks like it came from the factory that way.

 

Did you run your power wire from the battery? or through a switch so they can be turned off?

[kbran]

I like it!

Have you tried loading up the trailer to see how it works?

Once you adjust the brakes for a heavy trailer, will it lock up with an empty trailer?

 

I have checked far and wide for that plate that gets welded to the axle, seems no one will sell it separate. Everyone will make me an axle to fit my trailer. I guess that I will have to make my own plates.

 

Do you have the ability to get in there enough to measure the thickness of the plate that is on the axle? I can get the rest of the dimensions from the mating parts. Then just need to find out if the drums are available to match the HF spindles. Maybe I will end up with a whole new axle after all.

Yes I've loaded it with the same setting as empty and it still seemed to stop just fine, but I want to play with it a little more.

I think I could measure it for you , seemed like it was only about an 1/8" thick, read somewhere someone had one welded on but that it needed to be precise.

Looks like it came from the factory that way.

 

Did you run your power wire from the battery? or through a switch so they can be turned off?

Power is directly from fused wire on the battery and thru a switch to turn off if I need to.

[BradT]

Power is directly from fused wire on the battery and thru a switch to turn off if I need to.

 

Where did you hide the switch ? I assume the trac dimension of the tires are a little wider with the drums. No problems with the wheel wells ?

 

I think I am interested in the brakes as well. Looks like a nice job.

 

Brad