5 th gear almost a waste

[Brake Pad]

Alright, how does one figure out if all four cylinders are firing if it runs okay on three? I had the plugs changed and carbs balanced and the plugs looked fine. My 07 RSV runs a lost as bad as he stated. I run 95% in 4th gear on the highways. I only use 5th if on flat ground and above 70mph.

 

Craigr

2007 @ 65, in 4th my bike is screaming:confused24:

[Trader]

The OP has made it clear that he already has all the answers - no point in trying to convince him otherwise. It was my mistake to assume he might actually want some help with a serious problem. I guess he just wanted some place to complain. My bad.

Goose

 

 

OUCH!

good thing "Snarley" moniker has already been taken!

[Bummer]

2007 @ 65, in 4th my bike is screaming:confused24:

 

Have you taken it out and bumped into the rev limiter? If not, how do you know what "screaming" is? (Not trying to be snotty, this is a serious question.) 65 mph in 4th is just over 3500 rpm. Mine will touch 100 in third (with a Dyna3000 set for 7250).

 

These are not v-twins. They don't really come alive until over 3k rpm. 55 mph in second gear is about 5500 rpm. These V-Fours are happy running that rpm all day long. 65 is close to the rev limiter in second. Personally I hate to be in fifth under 65 mph. I consider it abusing my machine.

 

I got 167k miles out of an '85 running it in the upper half of the tach most of the time. I went to a Second Gen because of plastic and sub frame issues. Drive train's still ok.

[casabroker]

The bike is running fine all cylinders are firing, yes I brought it up to the rev limiter. yes i sprayed choke cleaner to check for vacum leaks. I think most of you guys have the 2nd gen bike. thats a whole lot of hp more than mine. As I said it's under powered and geared to tall. you guys w 2nd gen bike just pull a plug wire than you'll have about the hp I have.

[wes0778]

I think most of you guys have the 2nd gen bike. thats a whole lot of hp more than mine. As I said it's under powered and geared to tall.

 

I have BOTH, so I know how they both run and I still think from what you are saying, there is an underlying problem, 'cause while my '98 won't run like my RSV, it is not anywhere as underpowered feeling as what you describe. Is the exhaust stock? has it been re-jetted? are the slides free? Have the needles been reset? Are there holes in the carb diaphragms?

See if there is a member close to you that has a Carb Tune. BTW the carb sybc procedure in the Yammie service manual is wrong for the RSV and may be for the '96 as well. So if the dealer followed the wrong proceedure you may be worse off than before they touched it.

Like I said in an earlier post you should have enough power to "dust" a Sportster, if it is running up to par.

[pegscraper]

Just amazed that 5 th is so tall. Any upgrade in the road it's 4th or 3rd and 5th only level or downhill above 70. I know I can put the v max rear end in to change that. But the lack of hp and the tall gearing is making me think twice about keeping my 96 Royal Star. It's showroom and runs great but!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

There are things you can do about this if you're interested - cam swaps, carb swaps, and both rear gear and transmission gearing swaps, among another thing or two. The dyno says mine makes 90 hp at the rear wheel. It's a whole different bike than what it started life as.

[marinakorp]

There are things you can do about this if you're interested - cam swaps, carb swaps, and both rear gear and transmission gearing swaps, among another thing or two. The dyno says mine makes 90 hp at the rear wheel. It's a whole different bike than what it started life as.

 

Peg, I have a 96 Royal... basic model gussied up to look like a Tour Classic. There is some sort of a free flow exhaust on the bike (bought it used this year)

 

I too am a little underwhelmed at the power. It is not anemic... but a little above that. Alot of noise, but not much go (compared to my 82 Kawasaki 750 Ltd...that little thing had some GO!). I usually do not use 5th at all... unless on the hwy doing 80 and not trying to pass anyone on a slab.

 

I have executeed a carb synch,... (bought the carb tune) but probably need to do it again as I'm not sure I got it right and had to move on. It ws running better for a bit, but feels a bit out of synch again. I do not have a tach... so just set the idle to where it leveled out on the carb tune and was not too jumpy (yes, I did put the restricters in)

 

Any who... without doing the carb swap, I was wondering of going to the Barons Pod Filter, Dyna 3000 and a re-jet will net me a little more... or am I just going ot be making more noise and not much gain and less fuel milage (mid 30's around town and higher on highway to LOW 40's)

 

 

While I am slightly mechanically inclined, I do not have many tools (divorce, and had to sell most everything for the lawyers behalf) and live in the Philadelphia Area.

 

Any advise is greatly appreciated.

[Yammy]

One thing you can try and if the timing is right will cost you nothing more than normal maint. When you come due for a rear tire change, replace it with a slightly lower profile tire. There's probably someone here that can calculate what size you'd need to increase the rpm your desired amount.

When I was at deals gap I got a flat and the only tire they had was a lower in profile. Having no choice I put it on. It increased the rpm's but I couldn't tell you by how much. No tach. I did experience a lot more get up and go. It surprised me. If your not happy you can go back to stock when it's worn and needs replacing.

Edited August 18, 2010 by Yammy
cost is a tire

[marinakorp]

Acting on a whim, I checked the screws ( not sure the exact name) that are directly dead center under the carbs... All were almost all the way screwed in... From other posts... These should be 3 to 3.5 turns out? Backed out to 3.25 turns...oh man!

 

Idle went up a bit...seems like is pulling a lot better. Smoother?

 

I no longer have the smell of gas fumes at a stop and fires right up under choke... Will re synch thos weekend.

[pegscraper]

You can try pods and a rejet, but I think the bang-for-the-buck factor is pretty low. The carbs and cams are just too small to allow any real gains. Other bikes with four carbs on similar displacement use anywhere from 36mm to 42mm carbs. Yamaha should be slapped for putting 28mm carbs on this bike, and even the 32mm carbs really aren't properly sized, but they're all that's easily done. If you have even a little money to play with, you can buy used parts and then sell off your old ones and regain most of your cost. Swapping the 32mm carbs and VMX cams and springs on this bike gives a 50% gain in rear wheel hp. That's just huge. As for the D3K, I run mine on curve 5 and I also slotted the holes on the pickup coil so I could advance the thing four more degrees relative to the crankshaft. I'm pretty unimpressed. Honestly, I think the only thing the D3K is good for is raising the rev limiter, and there's little point in that when the power curve falls off at around 6500 rpms when the engine can't breathe through the ridiculously small stock carbs and cams. Again, very low bang for the buck there. The induction is by far the biggest restriction area in this engine, and nothing else is going to make much difference until the induction is opened up.

 

 

 

Any who... without doing the carb swap, I was wondering of going to the Barons Pod Filter, Dyna 3000 and a re-jet will net me a little more... or am I just going ot be making more noise and not much gain and less fuel milage (mid 30's around town and higher on highway to LOW 40's)

 

 

While I am slightly mechanically inclined, I do not have many tools (divorce, and had to sell most everything for the lawyers behalf) and live in the Philadelphia Area.

 

Any advise is greatly appreciated.