Battery Question

[Bobby G]

I've read the prior threads on this, but didn't find the answer to my question on those, so I'll throw it out on the table one more time:

 

Aside from normal miliamp drainage and a not-so-great charging system on the RSV, does a full drain of the batt due to stupidity (yes, I left the key on for 3 days! ) do any serious permanent damage to the battery? I slow charged it back to full, and it's starting OK, but I'm preping to hit the road for a 1,700 mile trip in a few weeks, and don't need any battery issues en route.

 

The batt is about 3 years old. I guess I could yank it and take it in for a load test at the auto parts place, but short of that, any opinions on this?

[V7Goose]

Batteries that are not designed for deep-cycle operation do get damaged some with a deep discharge. But if it took a good charge and is maintaining 12.9 volts or more after sitting for a day or two, then I would not worry about it. The ultimate life span of that battery may have been reduced, but it should preform and age in a pretty normal fashion going forward. That means that you will have the same indications and warnings when it needs to be replaced that you would with any other battery. As far as I know, a deep discharge does not increase the likelihood of any sudden failure as long as it takes a good charge.

Goose

[BigBoyinMS]

In a word, yes, it does do damage from sulphation. But you should be able to repair it with a battery charger that has a desulfation setting.

Instead of going with the usual BatteryTender everyone buys, I went with the BatteryMinder brand that desulfates if it's needed.

Here's a good link on sulphation, Bobby. http://www.progressivedyn.com/battery_basics.html

[Bobby G]

Thanks Goose. I'm doing a full fluid change out this week, including coolant system flush, final drive and oil, so I guess I'll just haul the batt to Advance AP and get it checked just to be on the safe side. The meter said 12.1 volts this morning, so I think I'm OK, but as long as I'm doing everything else, what the hell! 2 weeks in the south FLA heat will be challenging enough without having a mechanical problem, so I'm prepping the best I can.

[V7Goose]

Thanks Goose. I'm doing a full fluid change out this week, including coolant system flush, final drive and oil, so I guess I'll just haul the batt to Advance AP and get it checked just to be on the safe side. The meter said 12.1 volts this morning, so I think I'm OK, but as long as I'm doing everything else, what the hell! 2 weeks in the south FLA heat will be challenging enough without having a mechanical problem, so I'm prepping the best I can.

12.1 volts is EXTREMELY low for this type of battery! You do not say how long it has been sitting since the last full charge, but Yuasa's tech manual shows that a sealed VRLA battery is only at 25% charge at 12.2 volts. Full charge is a minimum 12.8 volts. And you cannot measure that voltage right after charging due to a phenomenon called "float charge"; you need to wait a couple of hours after charging before you take the first voltage reading. In your case, I would properly charge the battery according to the top label (NOT with a battery tender type maintenance device, but a proper battery charger intended for this type of battery, then let it sit for at least 24 hours and see how much the voltage has dropped. Better yet, I'd like it to sit for about three days unused, and compare the voltage every day to see if it is maintaining as it should.

 

As a last note, I'll mention that Yuasa states that special charging procedures are needed to bring this battery back after the voltage drops below 11.5, but since you have already done the first charge, that is probably academic at this point:

(copied from the Yuasa tech manual)

Batteries with voltage below 11.5v may require special

equipment and procedures to recharge.

In charging an overdischarged battery having a terminal

voltage of 11.5v or lower, its internal resistance may be

too high to charge at a normal charge voltage.

Therefore, it may be necessary to raise the voltage of

the battery initially (25v as a maximum), and charge

for approximately 5 minutes. If the ammeter shows

no change in current after 5 minutes, you need a new

battery.

Current flowing into the battery at high voltage can

become excessive. Monitor amperage and adjust voltage

as necessary to keep current at the battery’s standard

amp rating. Charge for approximately 20 hours.

 

Good luck,

Goose

Edited August 16, 2010 by V7Goose

[sarges46]

No one asked for my thoughts but here they are.

 

If it was me...a 3 year old battery doesnt owe you much anyway. For my own peace of mind and 100 bucks....I think I would just get a new one.

[Squidley]

This is just me talking, and there are folks that wont agree and thats fine. I dont know the specifics of damage to your battery, not a battery expert. If your battery is 3 years old, and your getting ready to do a big trip...change it out. $100 bill is nothing compared to being in the middle of nowhere and having a battery puke. The Venture both 1st and 2nd gens are very hard on batteries due to a barely adequate charging system.

I have seen several ventures, including one that I owned, just have the battery puke. It was fine one day and the next it was dead. I since then have never kept a battery in any Venture I have owned for over 3 years. I dont need any surprizes 1000 miles from home

[sarges46]

Me too Brad...me too. Didnt that happen to gunboat in Ontario a couple years back?

[Squidley]

Me too Brad...me too. Didnt that happen to gunboat in Ontario a couple years back?

 

 

Yes sir it did, it was an Oddessy battery less than a year old. Always better to be safe than sorry

[Bobby G]

All great feedback on this guys. I hears ya. Might just go with a new one before we head out. Just replaced the original one yesterday in my '05 F-150 that was working, but down to only 300 cranking amps when it should have 850! Situation averted. No sense taking a chance of the scoot crapping out in Mofn*, Florida!

 

Got a cruise ship to catch up with!

 

* (middle of f**king nowhere!)

[Bobby G]

12.1 volts is EXTREMELY low for this type of battery! You do not say how long it has been sitting since the last full charge, but Yuasa's tech manual shows that a sealed VRLA battery is only at 25% charge at 12.2 volts. Full charge is a minimum 12.8 volts. And you cannot measure that voltage right after charging due to a phenomenon called "float charge"; you need to wait a couple of hours after charging before you take the first voltage reading. In your case, I would properly charge the battery according to the top label (NOT with a battery tender type maintenance device, but a proper battery charger intended for this type of battery, then let it sit for at least 24 hours and see how much the voltage has dropped. Better yet, I'd like it to sit for about three days unused, and compare the voltage every day to see if it is maintaining as it should.

 

As a last note, I'll mention that Yuasa states that special charging procedures are needed to bring this battery back after the voltage drops below 11.5, but since you have already done the first charge, that is probably academic at this point:

(copied from the Yuasa tech manual)

Batteries with voltage below 11.5v may require special

equipment and procedures to recharge.

In charging an overdischarged battery having a terminal

voltage of 11.5v or lower, its internal resistance may be

too high to charge at a normal charge voltage.

Therefore, it may be necessary to raise the voltage of

the battery initially (25v as a maximum), and charge

for approximately 5 minutes. If the ammeter shows

no change in current after 5 minutes, you need a new

battery.

Current flowing into the battery at high voltage can

become excessive. Monitor amperage and adjust voltage

as necessary to keep current at the battery’s standard

amp rating. Charge for approximately 20 hours.

 

Good luck,

Goose

 

Sorry Goose. It was at 12.8 a day after I took it off the charger. Sorry for the typo, but thanks for the good info!

[V7Goose]

Sorry Goose. It was at 12.8 a day after I took it off the charger. Sorry for the typo, but thanks for the good info!

If it was 12.8 volts a day after charging, then it seems to be in very good shape. If it was mine, I'd be happy to ride it that way on a trip of any distance.

 

I understand people who prefer to replace a battery every three years, but I ain't one of them. In fact, as the anecdote above amply illustrates, even replacing your battery every year with an over-priced fancy model is no guaranty that you won't have a failure! Instead, I mount the appropriate voltage and amp gauges on my machines so I can actually verify that I am getting the full recharge when I expect it and never overloading the battery. Proper attention to the battery maintenance and condition works for me - the original battery in my '94 F250 made it 12 years, and the battery in my RSV is just about six years old and still working well.

 

Hope you enjoy your trip!

Goose

[N3FOL]

All great feedback on this guys. I hears ya. Might just go with a new one before we head out. Just replaced the original one yesterday in my '05 F-150 that was working, but down to only 300 cranking amps when it should have 850! Situation averted. No sense taking a chance of the scoot crapping out in Mofn*, Florida!

 

Got a cruise ship to catch up with!

 

* (middle of f**king nowhere!)

In case of doubt and you obviously have one, replace your battery. I personally don't feel good with a battery that is not healthy and be many many miles away from home. I will never let my batteries stay longer than 4 years...most importantly on my bike. This is your call for a new or stay with the old battery...it all boils down to as to how much risk are you willing to take. Ride Safe.

[1BigDog]

http://www.argusanalyzers.com/battery-monitors/applications/motorcycle-powersports.html

 

Bobby, for some peace of mind install one of these gauges. Make sure you get the powersports model. It will let you know if your heading for a battery failure.

[N3FOL]

+1 on the argus analyzer. I think it is a nice product. Just make sure you have the proper tools with you just in case you have to remove your old battery away from home to replace with a new one. Ride Safe.

[Bobby G]

http://www.argusanalyzers.com/battery-monitors/applications/motorcycle-powersports.html

 

Bobby, for some peace of mind install one of these gauges. Make sure you get the powersports model. It will let you know if your heading for a battery failure.

 

Great suggestion. The catalog price is $49.99 + $7.49 shipping ($57.48 total). I found it on eBay for $45 + free shipping. May go ahead and pick it up.

[hig4s]

Seeing as we are on batteries anyway, what is it with the RSV and killing batteries??

 

This is the first bike I have every had that will drain a battery in a little over a month sitting with the key off. Went out today to start the bike because I haven't ridden in a while, found I have forgot to plug in the tender and the battery was totally dead!! ARRRGGG!!! The bike is only 2 1/2 years old and this was a new battery just a year and 1/4 ago!!

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Seeing as we are on batteries anyway, what is it with the RSV and killing batteries??

 

This is the first bike I have every had that will drain a battery in a little over a month sitting with the key off. Went out today to start the bike because I haven't ridden in a while, found I have forgot to plug in the tender and the battery was totally dead!! ARRRGGG!!! The bike is only 2 1/2 years old and this was a new battery just a year and 1/4 ago!!

 

I've never measured the key-off current drain, but its there to keep the trip odometers, the radio memories, and clock circuits alive. I'm guessing its a few hundred milliamps, maybe more, maybe less. I always put mine on life support, ( battery maintainer) when parked for a week or more...especially in the summer, when batteries have a self-disharge rate of maybe 5-10% each month.

 

And BTW Bobby, heres another vote for installing a new battery. Git-er-dun and go for a run....one less thing to worry about. Completely killing the battery even one time will shorten its life.

 

And your not losing a decent old battery, your gaining a doorstop for the tool shed out back!

 

[1BigDog]

found I have forgot to plug in the tender and the battery was totally dead!! ARRRGGG!!! The bike is only 2 1/2 years old and this was a new battery just a year and 1/4 ago!!

 

Battery Tender Al!!!! In this heat we need to keep them plugged in. If you need a replacement battery go with the Deka battery.

[V7Goose]

Seeing as we are on batteries anyway, what is it with the RSV and killing batteries??

 

This is the first bike I have every had that will drain a battery in a little over a month sitting with the key off. Went out today to start the bike because I haven't ridden in a while, found I have forgot to plug in the tender and the battery was totally dead!! ARRRGGG!!! The bike is only 2 1/2 years old and this was a new battery just a year and 1/4 ago!!

This is not normal - you have something wrong with your bike.

Goose

[cecdoo]

This is not normal - you have something wrong with your bike.

Goose

 

 

I agree, I have an 06 with original battery, I let it sit in the garage all winter, no tender, it starts rite up every spring. Maybe I'm just lucky? Craig

[hig4s]

Battery Tender Al!!!! In this heat we need to keep them plugged in. If you need a replacement battery go with the Deka battery.

 

You got a link or a local supplier for the Deka battery?

 

 

This is not normal - you have something wrong with your bike.

Goose

 

That is my thought, but not sure what. The Zumo 550 connection couldn't be doing it, could it? I never take it off the bike in the garage.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

 

The Zumo 550 connection couldn't be doing it, could it? I never take it off the bike in the garage.

 

It might be. Whether they run on 12V directly or use a 12V adapter, it probably pulls a small amount of current thru the DC-DC converters in the unit, to keep the circuits ready to acquire satellites. Thats why they have a 'cold start' and a 'warm start' time specification.

 

Cold Start means it was NOT powered up and doing any satellite position calculations, and will be slower to figure out where it is, if its been moved from its last position, such as when put in a box and shipped, or carried in luggage on an airplane.

 

Warm Start means it has a small amount of power available to keep calculating the satellite positions, even if its turned off and not receiving signals. It will restart more quickly this way, and have a better 'guess' at where the satellites might be, and where the GPS itself is located.

 

This is how I understand it and may not be exactly how your 550 works.

 

Short answer: Possibly.

Edited August 19, 2010 by tx2sturgis

[Bobby G]

And BTW Bobby, heres another vote for installing a new battery. Git-er-dun and go for a run....one less thing to worry about. Completely killing the battery even one time will shorten its life.

 

And your not losing a decent old battery, your gaining a doorstop for the tool shed out back!

 

I agree. It's on the list of "to do's" in the next two weeks, right after I flush and replace the coolant, replace the final drive fluid, clean the K&N's, replace the front brake pads, adjust the clutch cable, and rewire the LED's. (I need a Maintenance Day scheduled for north GA soon! LOL!)

 

Then I need to rob a bank!

[tsigwing]

You got a link or a local supplier for the Deka battery?

 

 

 

 

That is my thought, but not sure what. The Zumo 550 connection couldn't be doing it, could it? I never take it off the bike in the garage.

 

Bought mine from SkyDoc, it was delivered in a couple of days fully charged.