Clock Install

[MikeWa]

I just finished installing a clock and temp gauge from clocks4bikes.com. Let me start by saying what wonderful people Linda and Ross Harjes are to work with. I ordered the wrong gauges to start with but they caught it from my bike description and called me on the phone. After discussing what I wanted to do Ross recommended a setup he designed for another bike. Needless to say it worked perfectly. It includes the gauge and a slotted mounting bezel. It also lights up with the touch of a bottom. I have included photos and install instructions in case anybody else is interested in doing something similar. Also I have the 1.5 inch handlebar risers on my bike with the original rubber buffers. You can see this in the pictures. And the bike is a 2008 RSV.

 

 

1) Clean the rubber buffers so the double stick tape will stay on.

2) Cut the tape to size and stick in place. Leave the backing on the out side.

3) Using the slotted bezel as a template mark and drill a pilot hole.

4) Remove the remainning backing from the tape and press the slotted bezel into place. I left a small space between the bezel and the fairing to reduce the chance for vibration.

5) Install a self tapping screw to double hold the bezel in place.

6) Insert the clock

 

 

Mike

[Sylvester]

I have installed the Formotion clock and temperature and it does well. The clock at least. I took off the thermometer since it always told me that it was too hot to ride.

 

[Kregerdoodle]

why do you need 2 clocks??

[Sylvester]

why do you need 2 clocks??

 

It is a clock and a thermometer!

 

[gibvel]

It also lights up with the touch of a bottom.

 

Okay, who's bottom do you have to touch and how lit up do THEY get?

[Bubber]

I just finished installing a clock and temp gauge from clocks4bikes.com. Let me start by saying what wonderful people Linda and Ross Harjes are to work with. I ordered the wrong gauges to start with but they caught it from my bike description and called me on the phone. After discussing what I wanted to do Ross recommended a setup he designed for another bike. Needless to say it worked perfectly. It includes the gauge and a slotted mounting bezel. It also lights up with the touch of a bottom. I have included photos and install instructions in case anybody else is interested in doing something similar. Also I have the 1.5 inch handlebar risers on my bike with the original rubber buffers. You can see this in the pictures. And the bike is a 2008 RSV.

 

 

1) Clean the rubber buffers so the double stick tape will stay on.

2) Cut the tape to size and stick in place. Leave the backing on the out side.

3) Using the slotted bezel as a template mark and drill a pilot hole.

4) Remove the remainning backing from the tape and press the slotted bezel into place. I left a small space between the bezel and the fairing to reduce the chance for vibration.

5) Install a self tapping screw to double hold the bezel in place.

6) Insert the clock

 

 

Mike

 

 

What does this set-up cost Mike?

And thanks!

Bubber

[Dave77459]

It is a clock and a thermometer!

 

I hate to support Kregerdoodle, but I reckon he was asking why you would add a clock when the bike already has one? *shrugs*

 

Dave

[LilBeaver]

I hate to support Kregerdoodle, but I reckon he was asking why you would add a clock when the bike already has one? *shrugs*

 

Dave

 

I know I have found times where I would like to see/watch the clock AND the trip meter without having to push and hold the 'select' button to toggle between the two...

[MikeWa]

Total cost was $115.00 including shipping. I paid a little extra for chrome and lighting. It's button not bottom. Wonder why spell check didn't catch that?

Mike

[Freebird]

Because both words are spelled correctly. It doesn't know that you used the incorrect word.

[Kregerdoodle]

you want to be just like me..... yes you do!!!!

 

 

 

I hate to support Kregerdoodle, but I reckon he was asking why you would add a clock when the bike already has one? *shrugs*

 

Dave

[Seaking]

I too like having a separate clock and not have to hit the toggle switch to swap displays on the panel, one more thing you don't have to take your eyes off the road for. I also gave up on my thermometer as well since I couldn't find a proper place to mount it that would give me a proper reading and not gain degrees from either the pipes, engine or what ever.. Mounted on the handlebars, you get engine heat coming up the between the tank and fairing.. For some odd reason no matter where I mount mine or what the outside air temp is, its always 80'F outside.. even though the darn thing calibrates correctly according to the manufacturer's guide.. So right now it's another shiny object on the bike..

[midnight maddog]

I decided to open the fairing, remove the speaker grills and use hole saw for the inserts. I then epoxyed inserts in grills (also had to dremel out an opening in fairing behind them) and popped in the Clocks4bikes stainless works. Ross and Linda are great people to buy from and helpfull in figuring out your application, too. Push button 3-second night light works great for the dark and they look sharp also.

[Seaking]

I have installed the Formotion clock and temperature and it does well. The clock at least. I took off the thermometer since it always told me that it was too hot to ride.

 

Same clock on my bars.. the thermometer is useless.. constant temperature no matter what time of year or where on the bike its installed on.. I contacted them about the thermometer and they sent me a test instructions.. Drop it in a glass of water and ice cubes, and it if reads 32F / 0'C then it's working properly... though in Florida it read 68'F (when it was 90'F) and last night it was reading 68'F when we were freezing our assets off in 38'F weather..

 

But it's calibrated to 32F.. so.. erhmm.. what ever, it's a chunk of chrome..

 

Clock works great though..

[midnight maddog]

So far, mine is giving a pretty close to correct reading while riding. time will tell.

[Condor]

I decided to open the fairing, remove the speaker grills and use hole saw for the inserts. I then epoxyed inserts in grills (also had to dremel out an opening in fairing behind them) and popped in the Clocks4bikes stainless works. Ross and Linda are great people to buy from and helpfull in figuring out your application, too. Push button 3-second night light works great for the dark and they look sharp also.

 

I like that......

[rumboogy]

I decided to open the fairing, remove the speaker grills and use hole saw for the inserts. I then epoxyed inserts in grills (also had to dremel out an opening in fairing behind them) and popped in the Clocks4bikes stainless works. Ross and Linda are great people to buy from and helpfull in figuring out your application, too. Push button 3-second night light works great for the dark and they look sharp also.

 

Hey...this type of approach might work very well for an oil gauge and a tempgauge? Ya think?

 

Wally

[Condor]

Hey...this type of approach might work very well for an oil gauge and a tempgauge? Ya think?

 

Wally

 

Or Engine Temp and Volts/Amps..... ????

[midnight maddog]

It should work for small guages. You have to open the fairing, remove the speaker nuts and one screw on each side to pull off the speaker grills. Then you can see how much space you have to work with. Not really any items directly behind the guages in my fairing, but speaker side housing tolerances are close. The other notable thing that is not real obvious in the pictures is that the contour of the speaker grills curve side to side and also downward. Even though I shaved a little of the side ribs down, the bottom of the trim rings stick out a little at the bottoms.

Edited November 15, 2010 by midnight maddog