massey130 Posted August 4, 2010 #26 Posted August 4, 2010 when looking at gravel, no 2 pieces are the same, yet they all fit in the same bag. In my line off work (Civil Engineering) 2 pieces of different gravel DO NOT fit in the same bag It's all in how you look at it. Stepping out now before someone starts chopping my head ... SGN :stickpoke: I guess civil engineers don't shop at lowe's where you can find bags of gravel ? ? ?
dingy Posted August 4, 2010 #27 Posted August 4, 2010 Who are the Moderators???:rotfl: Just asking V7Goose, Eck, Black Owl & Squidly are the ones I am aware of. Freebird of course. Gary
Yammer Dan Posted August 5, 2010 #28 Posted August 5, 2010 Eck, Black Owl and Squidley are pretty good ones.
Guest tx2sturgis Posted October 18, 2010 #29 Posted October 18, 2010 I changing the brake cables and clutch cables and need to bleed the clutch but cant find the bleeder to bleed it with. Need help urgently. Thanks I read thru all the responses and I dont see where anyone asked WHY you changed the brake and clutch lines...on a 2 year old bike....especially the clutch 'hose'.. or line...whatever. I'm going to call them 'lines' here. Did you change the brake lines to stainless? And if so, do the brakes have a better feel now? And was the clutch line replaced due to damage, or what? Or did you replace it with a stainless line also? If so, was this just for looks or is the clutch 'feel' much better now? How much did all the new hoses cost...approx...and how long did it take to do the whole job? Hey...enquiring minds want to know!
hunter 1500 Posted October 19, 2010 Author #30 Posted October 19, 2010 I read thru all the responses and I dont see where anyone asked WHY you changed the brake and clutch lines...on a 2 year old bike....especially the clutch 'hose'.. or line...whatever. I'm going to call them 'lines' here. Did you change the brake lines to stainless? And if so, do the brakes have a better feel now? And was the clutch line replaced due to damage, or what? Or did you replace it with a stainless line also? If so, was this just for looks or is the clutch 'feel' much better now? How much did all the new hoses cost...approx...and how long did it take to do the whole job? Hey...enquiring minds want to know! I changed to the flanders handlebars and it was suggested that I change the lines. I don't see a big difference but there is some in the braking. The job was not that hard but it takes time. Probably about 3 to 4 hours start to finish to change both the handlebars and the lines. I would suggest using a mityvac or some other type of pump to drain the lines and to refil the lines. It made it much easier.
hunter 1500 Posted October 19, 2010 Author #32 Posted October 19, 2010 Hunter, Do you want to sell the TD bars? Just sold them to a guy with a Venture and also sold the weights. $70 for everything including shipping.
bongobobny Posted October 19, 2010 #33 Posted October 19, 2010 **SIGH** It's gonna be a long winter...
BIG TOM Posted October 20, 2010 #34 Posted October 20, 2010 **SIGH** It's gonna be a long winter... What are you inferring by that comment ? You looking to start something? :rotf: ps. I get a kick out of some peoples comments or the way they answer questions. As Carl mentioned earlier, lighten up, it time for a group hug........
Bobby G Posted October 20, 2010 #35 Posted October 20, 2010 Did I miss something here? Did somebody get gravel in their clutch line???
BradT Posted October 20, 2010 #36 Posted October 20, 2010 when looking at gravel, no 2 pieces are the same, yet they all fit in the same bag. In my line off work (Civil Engineering) 2 pieces of different gravel DO NOT fit in the same bag My job is Technical sales support for a company that sells Rock Crushing equipment and all Gravel is NOT the same. Brad
Evan Posted October 20, 2010 #37 Posted October 20, 2010 --- I do admit that my responses to people often lack tact - that is not intentional, but it is something that has been a problem for me my entire life. I am left with the decision of trying to help people despite my lack of tact, or just ignoring them. Goose Kent - from my perspective, your efforts to help people like me is valued, with or without "tact".
friesman Posted October 20, 2010 #38 Posted October 20, 2010 Did I miss something here? Did somebody get gravel in their clutch line??? Nope , in their clutch cable... Brian
hunter 1500 Posted October 20, 2010 Author #39 Posted October 20, 2010 I'm still waiting on instructions on how to bleed clutch cables and brake cables. For the life of me I can't figure it out.
skydoc_17 Posted October 20, 2010 #40 Posted October 20, 2010 I have Quoted a set of directions that V7Goose has posted before, Kent put the time and effort into the directions, I mearly copied them to get you started in the right direction. Thank you Kent for your effort. Earl Well, I do not use speed bleeders, nor do I have any interest in them. But I can give you extremely easy instructions for this with a simple hand vacuum pump. The tool I use is here: http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-92474.html Step one: Use the pump to suck out all the fluid from the master cylinder. You do this so that you do not have to suck all the nasty old fluid out through the bleeder valve. Step two: Fill the master with fresh fluid. Step three: connect the pump to the bleeder valve, open the valve, and start pumping. This will suck fresh fluid from the master and old nasty stuff out of the line. You will have to hold the tube on the bleeder to make sure it does not accidentally pop off while pumping. Step three-point-five: watch the master cylinder fluid level while pumping from the bleeder. STOP pumping before the fluid gets to the bottom to prevent any air from entering the line. If you make a mistake here, you will need to keep bleeding until the air bubbles get sucked out through the bleeder. Step three-point-six: Refill the master cylinder each time it gets low, making sure you never suck it dry! Step four: Watch the color of the fluid being sucked into the canister. When it changes color (gets clear), you are done. Close the bleeder and top off the master. Now go ride. Goose
hunter 1500 Posted October 20, 2010 Author #41 Posted October 20, 2010 I have Quoted a set of directions that V7Goose has posted before, Kent put the time and effort into the directions, I mearly copied them to get you started in the right direction. Thank you Kent for your effort. Earl I'm sorry but my last post was a spoof. Kind of hard to bleed a cable.:rotf:I had an answer 1 minute after the original posting.
Guest Posted October 21, 2010 #42 Posted October 21, 2010 I'm sorry but my last post was a spoof. Kind of hard to bleed a cable.:rotf:I had an answer 1 minute after the original posting. I thank god that it wasnt the AIS system that you wanted to disable or remove!!!
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