Ignition switch question

[wes0778]

Got on the RSV Thursday for a couple of errands. When I turned the ignition on to head home from the last stop, I hit the starter and nothing! The radio was playing, but the lights were not on. When I turned the switch back to the ACC position, for second, the speedometer "scanned" across and then was back off.

Long story short, if I turn the switch completely to the right, nothing, except what is on in the ACC position. Now if I just barely turn the key back to the left, the lights come on, the bike starts and all is right with the world. If after it starts, I turn the key all the way to the right the engine quits. It is like the switch is turning past where there should be a stop.

Anyone else experienced something like this? An I headed for a switch replacement?

[flb_78]

Yup, switch replacement is in your imminent future. Mine did the same thing. Take the switch apart and you'll find the contacts are burnt in the far right position.

[Seaking]

Yup, switch replacement is in your imminent future. Mine did the same thing. Take the switch apart and you'll find the contacts are burnt in the far right position.

 

Is it much of a job to change it out?

[flb_78]

Not really. Depends on how far you want to take it. The bolts that actually hold the switch down are twist off anti-tamper and thread locked in. I also disassembled the new one and installed my old tumbler so I wouldn't need 2 keys.

 

Here's how the ignition switch can be bypassed.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32359

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=512

[1BigDog]

http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=35185&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=1999&fveh=894

 

Wes, heres a link for part shark. At 135 bucks its probably the best price you will find for a new switch. Its #6 on the fiche.

 

Those anti theft bolts are a real pain though. I used a dremel to cut a slot into the bolts then used an impact driver to loosen them. The bolts that hold your handlebar risers are the proper size replacement bolts for the ign switch.

[Seaking]

http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=35185&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=1999&fveh=894

 

Wes, heres a link for part shark. At 135 bucks its probably the best price you will find for a new switch. Its #6 on the fiche.

 

Those anti theft bolts are a real pain though. I used a dremel to cut a slot into the bolts then used an impact driver to loosen them. The bolts that hold your handlebar risers are the proper size replacement bolts for the ign switch.

 

Wow, that's a good price.. I had checked with BikeBandit and they were asking $220 for one.. ouch..

 

Thanks for the info lads.. Much appreciated.

[1BigDog]

Wow, that's a good price.. I had checked with BikeBandit and they were asking $220 for one.. ouch..

 

Thanks for the info lads.. Much appreciated.

Next best price was 160 at Seattle sports plaza. Last year I paid 124 from Part Shark so the 135 price is still in line. The 220 price is full MSRP.

[wes0778]

Ok, Shortly after my 1st post I put a by-pass switch on the main wires to/from the switch. I also put a switch parallel to the ACC contacts in the switch. (now I can listen to the radio without the key.) Since then the switch has given me zero problems.

There is a third set of contacts in the switch. That set when closed allows the ignition circuit to fire the spark plugs. So even with the main bypass switch on, the key still must be in the run position for the engine to start.

Now to my new "opportunity". Several times in the last week when I turn the key on all the circuits come active and the starter will crank the engine but it does not start. I turn the key off and right back on and the engine fires right up. Saturday the engine died at about 40mph, while traveling through town. 1st time I pulled over and stopped, turned the key off and back on. Again, the engine fired right back up. The next time, I turned the key off and on while still moving the engine came right back to life. Each and every time I have trouble the lights, speedometer and radio are all on. So I guess I may be answering my own question but is it possible the third set of contacts is going bad? Has anyone else had a switch fail like this?

[sgn]

My 99 has the switch replaced and I also have the "old" switch. How hard is it to replace the tumbler?

 

 

 

Not really. Depends on how far you want to take it. The bolts that actually hold the switch down are twist off anti-tamper and thread locked in. I also disassembled the new one and installed my old tumbler so I wouldn't need 2 keys.

 

Here's how the ignition switch can be bypassed.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32359

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=512

[Guest]

Im not a big believer in bypassing stuff for long periods of time. Especially an electrical component. While it may last for a while it still never solved the initial issue. I replaced my ignition switch and tossed the old one away...tumblers and all. Its not too hard to use 2 keys. My tumblers were worn out anyway so new ones seem to work better. Just my penny's worth here.....

[Kregerdoodle]

your gettin real close to walkin Walt!! Time to bite the bullet and change it out, not that bad of a job to do...

 

K

[99silver]

The tumbler is easy to switch, just remove the two sall tamper resistant screws

and replace with allen head screws. the unit is in two pieces, tumbler and contact

plate. You can't mess it up, as in easy X2.

[JerryK]

My switch did the same thing and I worked it back and forth and got it to work. I had been caught in the rain a day before and shot the lock with WD40 and it cured the problem and hasn't acted up again.