Ah Crap Now the starter clutch

[Dragonslayer]

Been having that box of rocks sound on start upand have been ignoring it as much as was possible. It's been getting worse and worse now starter spins and no motor turn over. Put bike on the right side lean stand took off the stator cover and verified that when start button pushed all gears including large gear behind flywheel spin but does not engage flywheel or turn over crank shaft.

 

Pretty much sounds like the starter clutch.......... Don't ya think? Is the Dano mod still available and is that the current way to go on the starter clutch issue.

 

Feed back appreciated.

[greg_in_london]

Yeah - know the feeling. I've my fingers crossed that a newbattery and checking the starter will mean it bites harder and not slip - enough for a while longer anyway.

[Flyinfool]

From the very first time that Mine made that noise I stopped running it. If/when the parts start to break off of the old clutch you will have small chunks of metal floating around inside of the engine just looking for a new home. Like maybe in the gears of the tranny.

 

Mine made that noise just once and there were cracks int the metal parts.

 

I put in the Dano mod last winter and have had no issues at all this season, nor do I expect any.

 

FWIW I also balanced the flywheel before I put it back on, the factory balance was very close but I got it just a bit closer and there was noticeably less vibration.

[capn eddie]

i also did the dano starter clutch upgrade last year and have had no problems since. It is well worth doing, my bike starts up first time every time no matter how cold it gets and with the battery cable upgrade it doesn't drag when hot, like they say it will be the last time you will ever have to do anything to the starter clutch.

[Squeeze]

Well, i admit that I'm biased, but Dano can take of your Problem and once you've done you can forget about the Starter Clutch. Except ....

 

 

Someone else will talk about a bad sound coming from the Motor or a not starting Engine when it should.

 

I recently had a Guy which had his long awaited Drag Day ruined by the Starter Clutch ...

 

 

Yeah - know the feeling. I've my fingers crossed that a newbattery and checking the starter will mean it bites harder and not slip - enough for a while longer anyway.

 

Greg, as in understand you'll be in southern Germany over the next Weeks. Why don't you come over to my Place and we'll do the Mod right here on the Spot. Takes 3 to 5 Hours all in all, depending on how your Rig and the Hack is set up.

[Snaggletooth]

Yep....do the upgrade!!

 

No regrets here on mine at all. Works like a P'd off gorilla! Push the button and it's gonna turn over....no questions asked.

[Dragonslayer]

Are there any tricks on getting the flywheel/72 tooth gear/starter clutch off crank shaft?

[Flyinfool]

It is REALLY on there tight, you will need a good puller.

[Snaggletooth]

Yepp. Good quality harmonic puller...

 

Lots of padding under the rotor....or about a foot away actually.

 

Lots of tension on the puller...

 

A little propane torch heat to the hub of the rotor may help....

 

DO NOT BEAT ON THE ROTOR OR THE PULLER WITH THE BIG HAMMER!!!

 

Or try my method.

 

Tighten puller repeatedly.

 

Heat the hub a little bit.

 

Put big box with padding inside and set it about a foot away from the bike.

 

Have a beer.

 

Do NOT remove the puller!

 

Go to bed.

 

If you wake to the sound of a shotgun going off...the rotor is now in the box.

 

Yep.....it worked for me. Unplanned but successful.

 

These rotors do not slide off gently. They leave the crankshaft very suddenly. You aren't going to catch it in your hand (about 12 lbs) unless you are a catcher for a shot put team. Padding below and off to the side of the bike is important.

 

Have fun.

[Dano]

Loop a rope around the rotor hub and then tie it around the upper frame. Not real tight on the tension and it'll stop the rotor from flying too far. The upgrades are always available, just PM me when you're ready and we'll get it fixed.

 

Dano

[Dragonslayer]

I still had the flywheel and starter clutch off the 1200 parts bike engine so i decided to pull it first, mainly as practice to see what it would take to get the flywheel off.

 

I did as you suggested and hooked up the harmonical balancer puller, torqued it down and heated it with a torch and after a little struggle it did pop off with a bang just like yall said it would.

 

Then after seeing how it came apart I went to the scoot to pull the flywheel off the bike motor. Again, I hooked up the balancer puller and low and behold the flywheel popped off with a pimmf.... with the first turn of the rachet on the center bolt of the puller. How easy was that?

 

Once I got the starter clutch off it was apparent that the starter clutch was cracked all the way thru at one of the mounting bolt holes. The starter clutch off the 1200 was not cracked but did have a little wear marks at the three bearing points.

 

Question: Realizing I may have to do it again later, and since I'm broke and can't afford the permenant fix right now. You think it will buy me a little time to reassemble flywheel using 1200 starter clutch? I'm thinking it might and all I have to loose is gaskets and maybe a little labor.

 

Oh Yea

PS: Taking the stator cover off the bike motor I noticed the stator is a little suspiciously burnt about 50% of the winding knodes. Does anyone have a decent stator they would let go cheap?

Edited July 31, 2010 by Dragonslayer
add PS

[jasonm.]

There should be NO OIL on any mating surfaces! REMEMBER THE TOTALLY DEGREASE THE CRANK AND FLYWHEEL(ROTOR) w/ lacquer thinner or brake clean.

[Snaggletooth]

Hey Bob.

 

I don't know how far you tore down the first rotor you pulled but if you did not remove the engage clutch from it I would simply swap the rotors out intact. Should be fine.

 

The tricky part of these things is the alignment of the engage clutch to the crankshaft when you tighten the three bolts. If it's off even a bit, it will cause the engage clutch body to work its way loose.

 

I believe this was part of the reason for the failure on my second engage clutch. Just my thoughts on it. I know that Dano has a special plug that he uses when he installs the upgrade engage to set the alignment.

 

You can eyeball it and get it close, and like you said you want get by for a while, but it needs to be spot on. I'd recommend new bolts also and make sure they get a solid stake when you set them. Don't want those puppies coming out.

 

Check the springs for damaged ends and make sure they are straight. Sounds like you have some spares to choose form anyway.

 

Sounds like the stator is on it's way out to. Damn the luck.

 

Old engage look something like this did it?

 

Mike

Edited July 31, 2010 by Snaggletooth

[Dano]

'Slayer, I bet the reason your rotor came off so easy is because it has been off before. When these are torqued on in the factory, they probably use the heat/rotor--cold/crank type deal to really seal them together. I'm surprised it came off THAT easy though. Make sure that crank bolt is really tight when you reassemble. In lieu of using the plug to center everything, you could snug the clutch bolts a bit the slide it on the crank and tighten it just a tad. Then pull it back off and finish torqueing the clutch bolts.

 

Good Luck!

 

Dan

[Dragonslayer]

Sounds good but, when you torque it down is there any specific to torque pressure for the clutch bolts and fly wheel bolt?

 

'Slayer, I bet the reason your rotor came off so easy is because it has been off before. When these are torqued on in the factory, they probably use the heat/rotor--cold/crank type deal to really seal them together. I'm surprised it came off THAT easy though. Make sure that crank bolt is really tight when you reassemble. In lieu of using the plug to center everything, you could snug the clutch bolts a bit the slide it on the crank and tighten it just a tad. Then pull it back off and finish torqueing the clutch bolts.

 

Good Luck!

 

Dan

[mbrood]

The rotor bolt is torqued to 94 ft-lb

while the starter clutch assembly bolts need 17 ft-lb and staked.

[Dragonslayer]

The rotor bolt is torqued to 94 ft-lb

while the starter clutch assembly bolts need 17 ft-lb and staked.[/QUOThANKS FOR THE INFO, INFO NOTED AND APPLIED. Got the bike back together and it now starts and runs fine. Thank all of you for your help input and advice maybe this repair will buy me some time untill i can afford the Dano Mod permenant fix on the starter clutch.

[Snaggletooth]

Another sucessful opration!