load resistor to electrical relays...

[a1bummer]

A couple question for you guys who might know off the top of your heads.

 

First, I'm replacing all my turn signal bulbs with LED's. So I need to change my old load resistor type flasher and hazard relays with new electronic relays. Do any of you know right off hand what the electronic equivalents to the FU257CD/NIPPONDENSO flasher relay and the FR-9H22/MITSUBA hazard relays are?

 

Second, Will the self canceling unit still work as it should, or will it have to be replaced as well? If it will need to be replaced, what is its electronic equivalent? Its model/manufactures #'s are YH-001/MATSU****A. If this guy won't work properly after the LED conversion and there is no electronic equivalent, it's no big deal. I usually cancel the turn signal myself anyway. But it would be nice that it work as it should for those times when I forget to turn off the dang thing myself.

 

Thanks, Bill

 

P.S. I already remedied the flashing LED on the dash problem. I simply jumped the reed switches on the computer instead of going with those inline resistors. I was just to damn cheap.

[Sylvester]

Google Harrison Specialties LLC, they have the electronic digital flashers. Your self canceling features will not work with them.

 

[MiCarl]

 

Second, Will the self canceling unit still work as it should, or will it have to be replaced as well?

 

The self canceling unit isn't the issue. The problem is the electronic flasher doesn't have the control input to allow the canceling unit to turn it off.

 

Following is a description of the problem and a solution which I shamelessly stole from the xjbikes.com web site:

 

The main problem with swapping to LED turn signals is that they draw about 1/40th the current of the stock bulbs. This is a problem because the stock flasher relies on this current for its operation. The stock flasher (with self-canceller) works like this:

 

It uses a relay with an NC contact and two coils on the pole piece (one about 100Ohms, the other about .2 Ohms). There are also a 1200uF cap and 150 Ohm resistor, but these are actually just to ensure that the turn signals aren't on when the ignition is first turned on. There is no bimetallic element. The stock flasher has three terminals labelled B, C, and L.

 

Its operation goes like this:

 

1. The handlebar switch has a two pairs of contacts in each direction. One pair switches conductivity between the Br/W of the flasher and the selected turn signals and leaves it there, the other momentarily connects Y/R and B to the cancelling unit, enabling it.

 

2. Once enabled, the cancelling unit, which had been holding +12V on the C contact (Y/G) of the flasher relay, lets this contact float. This deengergizes the 100Ohm coil allowing the relay contacts to close.

 

3. Once closed, the relay contacts provide 12V through L (Br/W) to the turn signal pair selected by the handlebar switch. The current to them flows through the heavier coil and opens the relay. Once the relay is open, current flow stops, so the relay can now close again, and we have a flash cycle, based largely on the magnetic field build up and collapse time of the heavier coil of the relay.

 

4. Eventually one of two things happens:

a) the cancelling unit's counters expire and it puts 12V back onto the C contact, energizing the 100Ohm coil and locking the relay open (no more flashing), or

b) the handlebar switch is cancelled, which opens the contacts between the L contact (Br/W) and the turn signals (no more flashing)

 

Anyway, none of this will work with LED turn signals, so an electronic flasher must be substituted for the original one (which mounts under the frame under the tank). The problem is, nobody that I found makes an electronic flasher that will work with the XJ self-cancelling circuit. If you want your signals to still self-cancel, you'll need to make your own:

 

Actually, you start with a two-pin (or two-pin + ground) electronic flasher. I used a two-pin from Rumble Concept, but I don't like it much since its rate varies considerably with temperature. To adapt the electronic flasher to work with self-cancelling circuit, you need to add another SPDT relay.

 

Most accessory relays are SPST (that is, they have four pins - 2 coil connections, one common, and one normally open). For this application you need one that also has a normally closed contact (five pins). I used a Radio Shack PC relay, and its working fine, but you may want to get a Bosch-type one that should be a bit more rugged for vehicular use.

 

Wiring goes like this:

Stock flasher connector Br wire goes to the common pin on the SPDT relay.

The normally closed contact from the relay goes to the supply side of the electronic flasher.

The normally open contact on the relay remains unconnected.

One of the relay coil pins goes to ground.

The other relay coil pin gets connected to the stock flasher Y/G wire.

The load side of the electronic flasher goes to the stock flasher Br/W wire.

 

I super glued my relay to the electronic flasher, taped up the harness stub, and put a bit of RTV over the terminals before installing the whole thing.

 

I also found a schematic:

 

http://xjbikes.com/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/11622/xj_flasher_circuit%7E0.jpg

 

The schematic differs from the description in the type of relay used (NO vs. NC). This is important because the wrong type will cause the signal to come on when the auto cancel expires rather than going out on expiration.

 

The author of the description is someone who seems to post good stuff, don't know about the diagram guy. In any case, easy to check out with a multimeter or test light before buying the relay.