1st gen Headlight

[CrazyHorse]

Does anyone know if the 1st Gen MkII headlight glass can be separated from the plastic housing. There are clips on the side of it but doesn't want to come apart. Headlight out light on computer moniter is on but the light is on. The light burned out indicator the white light is always on. The light will not switch to bright but the high bulb is ok.

[MasterGuns]

Sounds to me like your reserve lighting unit assy took a dive.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Jimbob,

I think Herb has hit the nail right on the head, I had this happen to me a year or so back. I replaced the RLU and all was well. The only other thing would be the Hi/Lo switch.

I have a spare of each if you need it.

Earl

Edited July 28, 2010 by skydoc_17
CRAYON BROKE!

[Venturous Randy]

Does anyone know if the 1st Gen MkII headlight glass can be separated from the plastic housing. There are clips on the side of it but doesn't want to come apart. Headlight out light on computer moniter is on but the light is on. The light burned out indicator the white light is always on. The light will not switch to bright but the high bulb is ok.

 

I am curious as to why you need to remove the glass from the plastic housing. It can be done, as it is glued on, but it can be chipped real easy when doing it.

RandyA

[bkuhr]

Likley cold soldier joint or defective reed switch internal CMU sensing no current flow to head light and activating headlight out circuit including reserving lighting unit, turning on white light. You can find info on repair on other posts for CMU in first gen section.

[CrazyHorse]

I am curious as to why you need to remove the glass from the plastic housing. It can be done, as it is glued on, but it can be chipped real easy when doing it.

RandyA

 

The headlight adjustment disconnected inside the lens area cant reattach it with lens on. I tried a different RLM awhile back but same thing. The white indicator light always on. I'm going to look into the CMU.

Edited July 28, 2010 by CrazyHorse

[Venturous Randy]

The headlight adjustment disconnected inside the lens area cant reattach it with lens on. I tried a different RLM awhile back but same thing. The white indicator light always on. I'm going to look into the CMU.

 

I think that is why I had to remove the lens on one of these light assemblies if I remember correctly. Ditto on the CMU resolder, this is pretty common these bikes with the similar symptoms you describe.

RandyA

[CrazyHorse]

I think that is why I had to remove the lens on one of these light assemblies if I remember correctly. Ditto on the CMU resolder, this is pretty common these bikes with the similar symptoms you describe.

RandyA

 

Is there an easy way to do this without destroying it? Is there a way to test the Reserve lighting unit with a multimeter?

[dingy]

Headlight out light on computer moniter is on but the light is on. The light burned out indicator the white light is always on. The light will not switch to bright but the high bulb is ok.

 

If you are feeling frisky and don't mind some rewiring, you could eliminate the reserve unit. It would also eliminate the white warning light on the dash and the systems ability to illuminate the functioning headlight bulb. But it increases the voltage to the bulbs, thus brightening them.

 

I ran heavier gauge wiring and used 2 standard relays to accomplish this. One of the relays needs to have a Normally Open & a Normally Closed set of contacts. This one is used to switch between High & low beams. The other relay needs to have Normally Open contacts, I used this one to cutout bulbs when cranking. Both of these are available at most parts stores.

 

This eliminated having the headlight circuit run through the Start switch as well.

 

I have a PDF schematic I could email you.

 

Gary

[CrazyHorse]

If you are feeling frisky and don't mind some rewiring, you could eliminate the reserve unit. It would also eliminate the white warning light on the dash and the systems ability to illuminate the functioning headlight bulb. But it increases the voltage to the bulbs, thus brightening them.

 

I ran heavier gauge wiring and used 2 standard relays to accomplish this. One of the relays needs to have a Normally Open & a Normally Closed set of contacts. This one is used to switch between High & low beams. The other relay needs to have Normally Open contacts, I used this one to cutout bulbs when cranking. Both of these are available at most parts stores.

 

This eliminated having the headlight circuit run through the Start switch as well.

 

I have a PDF schematic I could email you.

 

Gary

Please do.

[jasonm.]

Does anyone know if the 1st Gen MkII headlight glass can be separated from the plastic housing. There are clips on the side of it but doesn't want to come apart. Headlight out light on computer moniter is on but the light is on. The light burned out indicator the white light is always on. The light will not switch to bright but the high bulb is ok.

See what you are saying....Seems your reserve lighting unit is working and has switchewd to high for you and your low beam filament may be shot. Get another H4 and test.

[sgn]

I had the high but no low beam headlight ...

New bulb same thing ....

 

Digging through the wiring diagram I was also led to the reserve lighting unit ...

RandyA had one and lived near by so quick change out and .... same problem.

 

Digging deeper I found the CMS had bad joints in it, a cleanup and resoilder and wow ... problem gone (and its still gone)

 

Just throwing my 2 cents in

[CrazyHorse]

See what you are saying....Seems your reserve lighting unit is working and has switchewd to high for you and your low beam filament may be shot. Get another H4 and test.

 

Yes tried that. Same issue. Thanks for the thought though. Now I did have a problem with the starter switch sticking on a recent trip where I think the starter may have been trying to start for a couple of hours. A buddy noticed my headlight out and told me I pulled over and my starter was cranking musta been a couple hours of that. Its a wonder the starter still works I wonder if that damaged anything else. I have also lost my driving lights and Stebal horn now plus the rear brake light that operates off of the foot brake. No cruise control either lights up but never activates. Bike starts and runs fine though.

[dingy]

Please do.

 

Jim,

 

PM me with your email address and I will send it to you.

 

I can't do it via the VR site's email.

 

Gary

[Condor]

Does anyone know if the 1st Gen MkII headlight glass can be separated from the plastic housing. There are clips on the side of it but doesn't want to come apart. .

 

I've done it, but it takes a little coaxing.

[Dano]

Sounds like you might have some grounding problems there, Jimbob. Check the main ground at the right front lower motor mount, at the battery, there's a smaller ground point along the left side fairing frame. You have too much going wrong all of the sudden for all those circuits to have problems. You may also have to pull your ignition switch out to clean the contacts in there.

 

just my thoughts.......... for what they're worth and sometimes that ain't much!

[CrazyHorse]

Sounds like you might have some grounding problems there, Jimbob. Check the main ground at the right front lower motor mount, at the battery, there's a smaller ground point along the left side fairing frame. You have too much going wrong all of the sudden for all those circuits to have problems. You may also have to pull your ignition switch out to clean the contacts in there.

 

just my thoughts.......... for what they're worth and sometimes that ain't much!

 

 

Good thought I forgot about the one on the left side. Ill check into them. Thanks.

[Thom]

Jim i had the same problem and found out it was the starter sw. when hitting the switch , it turns the head lite off , one of the contacts where stuck , i cleaned and greased it works now .

Thom