key slot cover

[Seaking]

Ok, I hope someone has a quick / easier / inexpensive fix for this one.. Because I park the bike in the garage over night with the key in the ignition, and seldom stop longer than a fuel stop when traveling, I just noticed that when I pull the key out, the little cover jobbie doesn't cover up the hole that the key fits into.. So if left out over night, and it rains, I'm going to be heading for some problems with rust and such and be out of an ignition switch / lock..

 

I've sprayed it with WD40 and other products but can't seem to make it move to cover the hole..

 

Thoughts, suggestions?

[Condor]

How does it not cover the key slot???

[KiteSquid]

NEVER put anything in a lock mechanism except for powered Graphite

[M61A1MECH]

One thing that I was told by factory reps at a Yamaha breakfast, was that the clear plastic cover that is on the switch is supposed to be taken off by the dealer at time of delivery, it is only there to keep the switch and bezel from getting scratched before delivery. They said it is often the cause of problems with igition switches getting fouled.

they did not offer any solutions to remove the stuff if it got in the mechanism.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Pete,

I am sure you had the best of intentions when you applied the WD40 to the lock but this might not have been the best idea. I would use the CRC Electric Cleaner found at Wally World, Clean the lock really good, and if you feel you need to lube the lock, use a dry lube like the graphite lube mentioned above. The WD40 collects dust and dirt which clogs up the cover mechanism.

Hope this helps,

Earl

[Kirby]

A word of caution about graphite. Use only a very little in an ignition switch!! If you use too much it will pack in and you will make your switch totally useless!!! Don't ask me how I know this.

 

 

An ignition switch with a chip in it is expensive!!!

[Seaking]

Hey Pete,

I am sure you had the best of intentions when you applied the WD40 to the lock but this might not have been the best idea. I would use the CRC Electric Cleaner found at Wally World, Clean the lock really good, and if you feel you need to lube the lock, use a dry lube like the graphite lube mentioned above. The WD40 collects dust and dirt which clogs up the cover mechanism.

Hope this helps,

Earl

 

Thanks for the info, I have contact cleaner which I can use to get rid of the other lubes I silly enough used.. erks

[Semi-retired]

NEVER put anything in a lock mechanism except for powered Graphite

 

HOWEVER..........now that I......and apparently a few others.......have ALREADY put all manner of liquid lubricants down into the key slot on our ignition switches......because things were feeling a little "persnikety" when we were/are attempting to turn the key (mostly to ON......but sometimes even to OFF), what should we do now?

 

(Note: I put MY WD40 in it about 6 or 8 months ago, and although it doesn't seem any WORSE, it also doesn't seem much better/butter) :-)

 

Tips/tricks/hints?

[M61A1MECH]

HOWEVER..........now that I......and apparently a few others.......have ALREADY put all manner of liquid lubricants down into the key slot on our ignition switches......because things were feeling a little "persnikety" when we were/are attempting to turn the key (mostly to ON......but sometimes even to OFF), what should we do now?

 

(Note: I put MY WD40 in it about 6 or 8 months ago, and although it doesn't seem any WORSE, it also doesn't seem much better/butter) :-)

 

Tips/tricks/hints?

 

Just a guess here, because I am not a locksmith, but maybe a good dose of a cleaner in an aerosol can like Brakekleen , make sure it is safe for plastics, then a good dose of canned air to make sure it is dry and then a liberal application of powered graphite or other approved lubricate for locks.

[djh3]

Well far as I now the 2nd gen were not chipped keys. But the lock is an expensive joker. If I remember right the "door" slides to one side. Probably from leaving the key in there alot the spring is so weak it can not push it back.

[Semi-retired]

Well far as I now the 2nd gen were not chipped keys. But the lock is an expensive joker. If I remember right the "door" slides to one side. Probably from leaving the key in there alot the spring is so weak it can not push it back.

 

You're right on both counts. And long-term insertion of the key would be the BEST possible cause... since it might even suggest we were riding a lot of the time!

 

The worse... and more plausible reason though, is that the WD40 some of us mistakenly applied, has combined with road dust and just turned the entire venue into a mucky mess!

[Semi-retired]

... maybe a good dose of a cleaner in an aerosol can like Brakekleen , make sure it is safe for plastics,

 

I like the concept of your solution... But that last clause has me nervous.

 

Don't most brake cleaners dissolve almost everything? Including your skin?

 

P. S. No offense, but both you AND KiteSquid have referred to "powered" graphite.

Is it POWERED... or POWDERED?

Edited May 8, 2019 by Semi-retired

[M61A1MECH]

I like the concept of your solution... But that last clause has me nervous.

 

Don't most brake cleaners dissolve almost everything? Including your skin?

 

P. S. No offense, but both you AND KiteSquid have referred to "powered" graphite.

Is it POWERED... or POWDERED?

 

I have used brake cleaner on a lot of jobs where I needed a good degreaser and it always worked, but was careful to control where it went, maybe for a job like this a good electrical contact cleaner that does not leave a residue would work just as well. The idea is to flush out the old crud without introducing new crud.

 

Yes I meant to type powdered, either stupid fingers or stupid spell check I suppose.

[cowpuc]

I have used both spray brake cleaner and carb cleaner interchangably for most, if not all of my degreasing needs thru the years. I buy the stuff by the bulk (cases) when Menards has it on sale and go thru lots of it. I use it on everything from electrical, rubber parts and metals ect. I am careful around paint and clear coat finishes - just pretest a small area before use to see how it will react. One of the nice thing about the stuff is its evaprotive qualities,, it evaporates fast and you can increase its evap by hitting it with air. For cleaning a lockset like we are talking about, if it the switch were mine I would pack the area around the switch with rags, toss on a pair of glasses, spray the internals down with the cleaner and then hit it with air real well. Maybe do a couple times. Then I would lube the tumblars/switch with something like this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/GRAPHITE-SPRAY-8OZ/129989581?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1122&adid=22222222227054437779&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=155012749152&wl4=pla-266420391561&wl5=9017502&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=101593696&wl11=online&wl12=129989581&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjw_MnmBRAoEiwAPRRWW9yJZiagxI1wORhKDoQ-i_8JCeLNTMQ_uFCSLeK4d6KiXLL1WSpo4xoC-FcQAvD_BwE

 

I like the graphite that goes on wet cause, IMHO, it gets into tiny bits and pieces a lot easier/quicker. Just a quick shot, then put the key in and turn the ignition on and off a couple times to work the tumblers and remove the key. SHAKE THE CAN lots before spraying, then spray a shot on a rag to be sure your getting lots graphite in the airasole before spraying a shot into the lockset. Let it set for a few minutes and test it again..

Speaking of carb/brake cleaners. The really good stuff disappeared from the shelves of suppliers. The stuff that would get under a wedding band and instantly made it feel like the area under there was on fire = stuff was an AWESOME cleaner = very strong!! I loved the stuff cause WOWZY WOW WOW WOW did it clean!! Then something must of happened with Federal Regs or something cause all of a sudden it disappeared and now all you can find is sissy stuff, IMHO of course. Anyone else experience this?

[luvmy40]

As far as the brake cleaner goes, you want non-chlorinated for working with plastic and painted areas. All brands make a non-chlorinated version. It's still a very good cleaner but will will not melt your plastic or paint. I have never found a carb leaner that did not eat paint and plastic for breakfast.

 

I don't know how big a PITA removing the ignition lock is on a gen 2, probable quite a large one though. Any way, if you can get it off I'd drop it in an ultra sonic cleaner for a while then hose it down very thoroughly with non-chlorinated brake cleaner or contact cleaner to displace the water or what ever you use in the ultra sonic. Then lube with aerosol dry graphite and reassemble.

[Freebird]

I know that people have used dry graphite on locks for years and it is a great lubricant for them. Are there any concerns though about the fact that graphite is a very good electrical conductor? I would worry that using it could cause shorts between the contracts or to ground. Is it a concern?

[Semi-retired]

I know that people have used dry graphite on locks for years and it is a great lubricant for them. Are there any concerns though about the fact that graphite is a very good electrical conductor? I would worry that using it could cause shorts between the contracts or to ground. Is it a concern?

Funny you should ask that, Don; I was going to make the same comment with reference to "disconnecting the battery" while performing ANY of these suggested cleaning procedures. (Mind you, that was probably a big DUH! for most of you guys who actually know what you're doing!! LOL)

[Semi-retired]

The stuff that would get under a wedding band and instantly made it feel like the area under there was on fire = stuff was an AWESOME cleaner = very strong!! I loved the stuff cause WOWZY WOW WOW WOW did it clean!! Then something must of happened with Federal Regs or something cause all of a sudden it disappeared and now all you can find is sissy stuff, IMHO of course. Anyone else experience this?

 

Thanks for your input; much appreciated.

 

Yeah, on the "where'd the good stuff all go?" comment........funny how corporate America doesn't want your fingers to be dripping off your hands into the parts-washing tray.....then suing THEM!! :-)

 

Edit: But, isn't that the way with a lot of commodities? Take Grape Nuts, for example: they used to be nice, hard, crunchy, tasty little nuggets. NOW, they're bits of pelletized, corrugated cardboard! :-(

Edited May 8, 2019 by Semi-retired

[Marcarl]

Presently I have a case of Brake Cleaner sitting on my shelve, come from CarQuest and bites the fingers, ring or no ring,,, doesn't say where it is made or who makes it.

[Semi-retired]

Presently I have a case of Brake Cleaner sitting on my shelve, come from CarQuest and bites the fingers, ring or no ring,,, doesn't say where it is made or who makes it.

Carl, I'm CONVINCED you have a case of every SKU on the planet over there.......much of it acquired before China started making EVERYTHING!

(But, as we all know, and are currently lamenting, the old stuff is the good stuff. Just like US!)

[Marcarl]

Carl, I'm CONVINCED you have a case of every SKU on the planet over there.......much of it acquired before China started making EVERYTHING!

(But, as we all know, and are currently lamenting, the old stuff is the good stuff. Just like US!)

I know, I know, there is a lot of stuff on those shelves, always looking for something new and different, but this stuff is fresh, well kind of fresh meaning less than 12 months. Now paint is another story, I've been trying to get my paint down to a usable level and was doing pretty good and then I ran out of white,,, well now!! do you have any idea that white is not necessarily white and to get to the right one kind of loads up the shelve again??? My kids will have a hayday when they get to divide the spoils.