98 RSTC clutch issues

[captpfd]

My bike with 17k miles has developed a spongy clutch lever problem and bike won't go into neutral. This has all happened in less than a week. Don't see any leaks and clutch reservoir is full. Any thoughts?

[Ferrantelli]

My first thought is to bleed the system. The slave cylinder is on the left side under the rubber square cap.

[Squidley]

My first thought is to bleed the system. The slave cylinder is on the left side under the rubber square cap.

 

 

Thats exactly where I would start also, if it's the original fluid that would be 12 years old. What color is it through the site glass window on the reservoir?

[captpfd]

The consensus from this and another RS site is dirty old oil, yes, it looks a light brown color. I did find that small square black cover this morning. About how much DOT4 do I need to purchase and do I need some type of suction device or just open up the bleeder and drain, add fluid, pump lever etc.?

 

BTW, I was told there is a PDF file for the owners/service manual for the Royal. Does anyone know where I can find that file? I guess my other option is to order a Clymers manual form the dealer.

 

Thanks

 

Les R.

[wes0778]

My bike with 17k miles has developed a spongy clutch lever problem and bike won't go into neutral. This has all happened in less than a week. Don't see any leaks and clutch reservoir is full. Any thoughts?

 

You say it is full. Have you taken the top off to check, or just looking at the site glass?

Same thing goes on with my '98. The site glass on mine looks full, but the little rubber boot pulls down as the fluid disappears, making the site glass look full. When this happens I just fill the reservior with clean DOT4 fluid (don't over fill it!!!), put the cap back on , let it sit a few minutes and then pull and release the clutch lever until it gets solid again. I've never had bleed it in this situation. If it has never been done, you should go ahead with a complete fluid change.

I did do a complete fluid change and flush when I first got the bike, early in '09. I have no leaks, but know about every 1000 miles I need to top off the reservior.

Aside from that the clutch works perfectly.

Edited July 19, 2010 by wes0778
spelling

[Squidley]

Les,

 

You can use a mighty vac to bleed the system out or one of the pneumatic bleeders from Harbor Freight, I have one of these and it works great. Where abouts in Texas are you, we could get you hooked up pretty easily as the bleeding isn't too long of a job. I'm just north of Houston in Conroe.

[Ferrantelli]

You say it is full. Have you taken the top off to check, or just looking at the site glass?

Same thing goes on with my '98. The site glass on mine looks full, but the little rubber boot pulls down as the fluid disappears, making the site glass look full. When this happens I just fill the reservior with clean DOT4 fluid (don't over fill it!!!), put the cap back on , let it sit a few minutes and then pull and release the clutch lever until it gets solid again. I've never had bleed it in this situation. If it has never been done, you should go ahead with a complete fluid change.

I did do a complete fluid change and flush when I first got the bike, early in '09. I have no leaks, but know about every 1000 miles I need to top off the reservior.

Aside from that the clutch works perfectly.

If you need to add oil every 1000 miles something is wrong. The only time the fluid level should drop (brake or clutch) is to take up wear of the parts (which is negligible). The fluid must be going somewhere, usually it would show up as a leak.