Mel Posted July 12, 2010 #1 Posted July 12, 2010 Have I missed something, or do I not have a clue about how to pack the bearings? This is on a Harbor Freight Tag-Along trailer. Took off the dust cover, removed the cotter pin, removed the castle nut and flat washer. Wiggled the wheel a little bit and the bearing moved towards me. I pulled out the bearing. This is a tapered roller bearing. I packed it full of good Lucas Oil wheel bearing grease. I reinstalled the bearing, flat washer and nut. Adjusted the torque on the nut , installed the cotter pin. I am confused about the posts about seals, etc. Am I not going far enough into the wheel? Is there more than one bearing per wheel? I just want to make sure the bearing is properly greased.
wes0778 Posted July 12, 2010 #2 Posted July 12, 2010 Never had one of these apart, but rest asured if there is one tapered bearing, there is a second one opposing it. To get to the "back" one, you will probably have to knock the seal (you'll most likely need a new one) out.
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 12, 2010 #3 Posted July 12, 2010 There are two bearings on each side, an inner bearing and an outer bearing. They BOTH need grease. http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wheelbearingpack.aspx
Sideoftheroad Posted July 12, 2010 #4 Posted July 12, 2010 Mel, The seal is part of the inner bearing. Take the wheel off the trailer, turn it around and you will see the inner bearing seal. Take the seal out and you can get the inner bearing. I will see if I can find the link again but found a link that gave you different options including converting inch to metric and showed a picture of the seal itself.
Mel Posted July 12, 2010 Author #5 Posted July 12, 2010 Can the inner bearing be greased simply by using a grease gun on that zirk (sp?) on the inside of the wheel? (Thereby eliminating the potential damage to the seal)
Sideoftheroad Posted July 12, 2010 #6 Posted July 12, 2010 skf 692373 This should bring up a table. You will have to double click the # 692373 under the US Stock # column. That will bring up another window. At the top left, you have options for 3d view, pdf, cad, metric, print & close. Choose Metric. and it will convert inches to metric before your eyes.
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 12, 2010 #7 Posted July 12, 2010 (edited) If there is a zerk fitting then I assume it will allow grease to flow into the inner and outer bearings. I dont actually own an HF trailer, so I dont know where the zerks ARE on your hubs. I use bearing buddies to grease both the inner and outer bearings. I install the bearing buddys, fill the hubs with grease using a grease gun, then REMOVE the bearing buddies and replace the original dustcaps. See the thread titled SEAL. Edited July 12, 2010 by tx2sturgis
wes0778 Posted July 12, 2010 #8 Posted July 12, 2010 Can the inner bearing be greased simply by using a grease gun on that zirk (sp?) on the inside of the wheel? (Thereby eliminating the potential damage to the seal) I would personally not use a grease gun, (Except on trailers with the EZ-Lube system) as you take a chance on building enough pressure in the hub to push the seal out.
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 12, 2010 #9 Posted July 12, 2010 (edited) I would personally not use a grease gun, (Except on trailers with the EZ-Lube system) as you take a chance on building enough pressure in the hub to push the seal out. Yep...thats why I use the bearing buddies....they pressurize to about 3 PSI and no danger of damaging a seal. Then I remove them and replace with the dustcap. http://www.bearingbuddy.com/graphics/Cutaway.gif Edited July 12, 2010 by tx2sturgis
MiCarl Posted July 12, 2010 #10 Posted July 12, 2010 (edited) Whether you use a bearing buddy or the zerk fitting the initial lube takes a lot of grease because you need to completely fill the hub (that whole volume between the bearings in the picture above). Brian, why do you remove the bearing buddies? I thought the whole idea was that they keep the grease pressurized so the bearings are lubed as needed and water can't get in past the seal. **NEVER MIND** Just saw your other post about ugly and stick out far enough to bang into stuff. Edited July 12, 2010 by MiCarl
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 12, 2010 #11 Posted July 12, 2010 **NEVER MIND** Just saw your other post about ugly and stick out far enough to bang into stuff. Yeah...sometimes my belly fits that description too!...but dangit...its permanently attached!
BradT Posted July 13, 2010 #12 Posted July 13, 2010 Dumb question do all bearings have the flat washer. My new to me time out trailer I just got never had a washer ? First one I ever saw without one Brad
Sideoftheroad Posted July 13, 2010 #13 Posted July 13, 2010 you need to completely fill the hub (that whole volume between the bearings in the picture above). I don't see a pic
wes0778 Posted July 13, 2010 #14 Posted July 13, 2010 Dumb question do all bearings have the flat washer. My new to me time out trailer I just got never had a washer ? First one I ever saw without one Brad The washer (usually with a tang on the inner bore) keeps the inner race on the bearing from turning the retaining nut.
MiCarl Posted July 13, 2010 #15 Posted July 13, 2010 Whether you use a bearing buddy or the zerk fitting the initial lube takes a lot of grease because you need to completely fill the hub (that whole volume between the bearings in the picture above). I don't see a pic http://www.bearingbuddy.com/graphics/Cutaway.gif
jemorrisonjr Posted July 13, 2010 #16 Posted July 13, 2010 Anyone know the size of the hub on the harbor freight trailer??? $20 each at Northern tool for the bearing buddys.. Was going to stop by on the way home from work...
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