Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Since you said someone recently replaced the rear caliper (or did you just mean the pads?)

 

They swapped out the entire caliper.

 

How were you checking the level?

 

During lunch it was on the kickstand w/ handlebars turn to the left. At home it was on the centerstand, handlebars center. I did notice even with handlebars center the fluid was not level as it was lower on one side and higher on the other. You mentioned the bars have to be turned to the right so I will try that and check the front resevoir again.

 

And more likely you will need to do a rebuild of all the movable parts.

 

Do you mean brake lines replaced as well as front and rear calipers rebuilt?

 

Thanks.

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

The moron who replaced your rear caliper is 1,000% responsible for the lack of fluid in the system, as well as any damage that can be traced to the leaking fluid. Of course, the tough decision is how much more do you want this idiot moron to mess up on your bike if you try to make him fix it?

 

BIG correction here about what I told you concerning checking the front brake fluid - I was thinking of the CLUTCH on the left handlebar! (That makes me the moron for this one.) For the front brake, on the side stand with the bars turned left should have had the master cylinder level, or at least close to it.

 

The first thing I would do with the front brake is to use a vacuum pump or turkey baster to suck out all the fluid from the reservoir and put it into a small glass jar so you can clearly see if it looks like something is mixed or contaminated.

 

Technically, you should not have to replace the brake lines just because of contaminated fluid - a good flush should clear them out. But generally rubber hoses should be replaced every four years, so it might be a good idea anyway. If DOT5 has been added, you absolutely should rebuild the master cylinder and calipers.

Goose

Posted

I believe that if you are desiring used bags that Pinwall Cycle parts have a set in the same color for 399. I have not used them but many on here have. Good luck. They are located in Massilon Oh. Check their web site.

 

:12101:

Posted

I saw those bags on e-bay looked pretty banged up. Looks like it was from a bike being layed down.

 

I went back today cuz I think they messed up the rear and I think they should (hopefully) fix it. I asked them to put new fluids in front and rear, check, double and triple check all the fittings, bolts, nuts, etc...

 

I took off the black cover from the rear resevoir. I think it is just for looks anyway but at least I can keep an eye on it now. I told the manager they said the front was full yesterday, I double checked and it was full so I understood charging for the front service. I did say however I have an issue with the rear. They were the last to touch it, they should fix it for free. He didn't charge me for any of it.

 

When I was talking to them about it he started to say that he has seen no fluid in the resevoir w/ brake pads at 50% (which is were mine are at. I checked and they confirmed it w/out me telling them I checked it 1st). I can understand pistons have to travel further which will use more fluid which in turn reduces how much will show in the resevoir. My issue is once you let go of the brake lever shouldn't the fluid travel back to the resevoir? Just as guess, but I am gonna say yes. The issue is after letting it sit level for 6 hrs, still no fluid in the resevoir. I said not to believe that you haven't seen it, but I have a hard time buying into that reasoning. I can tell you as a matter of fact on a charged battery, a 1970 chevelle can run for 1 hr 45 minutes w/out the alternator hooked up (again as a result of a mechanic that failed to hook it back up). I have seen it, but doesn't mean it's right.

 

Next we talked about the bag issue and possible brake fluid hitting the bottom of the bag, causing the paint to bubble as well as the plastic to soften and crack. His reasoning was pretty much the same as what I posted earlier. I really didn't think about how the brake oil line is mounted to the caliper. If you look the line is connected at the top and towards the front of the caliper. About 1/2 of the bag covers the caliper. IF it leaked at the point where the line meets the caliper, that means the side of the bag closest to the caliper should be caked w/ brake oil too and paint destroyed, which it isn't.

 

My question is can you think of any other place where fluid can come out of the caliper to be able to travel to the far side of the bag? I don't think it can be proven one way or another about how the bag got broke.

Posted
I went back today cuz I think they messed up the rear and I think they should (hopefully) fix it. I asked them to put new fluids in front and rear, check, double and triple check all the fittings, bolts, nuts, etc...

 

I took off the black cover from the rear resevoir. I think it is just for looks anyway but at least I can keep an eye on it now. I told the manager they said the front was full yesterday, I double checked and it was full so I understood charging for the front service. I did say however I have an issue with the rear. They were the last to touch it, they should fix it for free. He didn't charge me for any of it.

 

When I was talking to them about it he started to say that he has seen no fluid in the resevoir w/ brake pads at 50%.

Pure Bovine Scat unless there is a leak. It is true that the fluid will go down some while the pads wear, as the pistons do stay pushed out to keep the pads close to the disc. But only a fool or a liar would say what he did. Think about it - if the manufacturer designed a brake system that would run out of fluid in the master cylinder BEFORE the pads were completely used up, then the brakes would simply stop working at that point, the owners would die in horrible crashes, and the law suits would be beyond imagination.

 

I can understand pistons have to travel further which will use more fluid which in turn reduces how much will show in the resevoir. My issue is once you let go of the brake lever shouldn't the fluid travel back to the resevoir? Just as guess, but I am gonna say yes.

No, not to any perceptible amount. The pads are not spring loaded, so there is nothing to push them any further back than just the pressure of the disc. So once they barely clear the disc, they stop and stay right there.

 

The issue is after letting it sit level for 6 hrs, still no fluid in the resevoir.

Letting it sit for 6 hours or 6 years won't change a thing.

 

I said not to believe that you haven't seen it, but I have a hard time buying into that reasoning. I can tell you as a matter of fact on a charged battery, a 1970 chevelle can run for 1 hr 45 minutes w/out the alternator hooked up (again as a result of a mechanic that failed to hook it back up). I have seen it, but doesn't mean it's right.

 

Huh? Where'd this come from - you got charging issues TOO????

 

Next we talked about the bag issue and possible brake fluid hitting the bottom of the bag, causing the paint to bubble as well as the plastic to soften and crack. His reasoning was pretty much the same as what I posted earlier. I really didn't think about how the brake oil line is mounted to the caliper. If you look the line is connected at the top and towards the front of the caliper. About 1/2 of the bag covers the caliper. IF it leaked at the point where the line meets the caliper, that means the side of the bag closest to the caliper should be caked w/ brake oil too and paint destroyed, which it isn't.

 

My question is can you think of any other place where fluid can come out of the caliper to be able to travel to the far side of the bag? I don't think it can be proven one way or another about how the bag got broke.

It is highly unlikely that any leak would have been enough to actually squirt the fluid out in a stream, so it is a bit pointless to just look at something right next to the brake fitting. Where any leaking fluid would end up is completely at the whim of the air currents blowing around under there. It was going to spread and splatter one little drop at a time. Not only would I closely examine the entire bag, but also the wheel and fender. Do not be surprised to not see any actual fluid, since it rinses right off with water. But if it was there long enough to start damaging the paint, you should be able to see that.

Goose

Posted

And.... It doesn't take a lot of fluid to get the paint too bubble up. MOF, very little. It may have happened when the mechanic was replacing the caliper. I've seen a dot the size of a period and the end of a sentence raise a spot the size of a pea. Personally I think the mech beat the cr@p out of the bag when he had it off to service the caliper. He could have set it on the ground wet with fluid. Also bumped and scrapped it while it was sitting there...ergo the scrap.. Also you keep saying the front reserve was full. What do you mean by full?? Half way up the sight glass is all it should be. Same thing for the rear reserve....

Posted
I agree. Plastex is great stuff and works particular well on these types of cracks because it’s so thin. It has the viscosity of acetone so it will wick into the tightest of cracks. The kits also come with black, white and clear filler if required. The solvent itself is clear. I’m familiar with other glues and this stuff is so very handy to have around and has a great shelf life.

Even better store it in the fridge.

Posted
Huh? Where'd this come from - you got charging issues TOO????

 

No charging issues. This is just my example to you guys. His example of seeing resevoir empty w/ a 50% brake padding, I was calling him out on it. Like you said and I felt, Pure Bovine Scat. I have seen things too just like he has seen things. Just because we have seen things (like pygmies :)), doesn't mean it is normal or right.

Posted

So what are you doing about the bike now? Does it have a leak on the rear and if so you better take some fluid with you on your trip to be safe and keep a eye on it. You are fighting a losing battle it sounds like. Hate you tell you this but your dealer for anything is only as good as the person that wroks on it that time you take it in. Everyone screw up from time to time but the better person and place will step up and take care of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...