cracked saddlebag

[Sideoftheroad]

What the heck could have caused this? I am guessing someone hit it. The saddlebag guards are not damaged. Wife thought it might be stress from towing the trailer. I have towed it 3-4 times. 1st time for a couple hours. The other times were pretty much 30-45 speeds 55 or less. So not really sure that could have done it but never know.

 

It is cracked all the way through starting top right and going towards bottom left almost all the way to the bottom.

 

And the other question. How to fix? Can I use some epoxy on the inside as a temporary fix?

[BOO]

That is indeed strange. I have never seen one of these bikes crack like that.

I have put mine in some real good stress a couple of times and nothing like that happen.

Not sure about the fix but it looks as if you can find something to weld it together you won't be able to notice it to much.

 

Good luck and I'm sure you will get some other ideas here as time goes on.

 

BOO

Edited July 12, 2010 by BOO

[rod]

You can glue it from the inside. I got hit and it cracked across the bottom and after gluing has been good for years and many miles. Good luck Rod

[flb_78]

Is is actually cracked all the way through?

 

It looks like a big ass scratch to me. It appears it stops underneath the saddlebag guards.

 

BUT, Im just looking at a picture which can often be deceiving.

[Sideoftheroad]

It is definetly cracked all the way through.

[dmoff1698]

Of hitch do you have and how is it attached to the bike?

 

Does the hitch attach directly to the frame just below the passenger seat, or does it attach to the same rails that the saddle bag sets on?

 

The dammage can only be caused by some flexing someplace it shouldn't. Unless....

 

You should see what my wife tries to stuff in a saddle bag...10 pounds of $#@T in a 5 pound bag. I have to monitor that situation closely.

[eagleeye]

I'll tell you how I've fixed a couple of cracked tour pacs.

On the inside:

I super glued the crack to hold it in place while I used devcon plastic epoxy and fiberglass cloth. Lay a layer of devcon down on each side of the crack and then lay a piece of the fiberglass cloth on top the the epoxy, and be sure to squeeze the epoxy through the cloth, and soak the cloth. You might need to add a bit more epoxy. Let it dry.

Then I put down a second layer. let it dry, spray it black and your done.

 

Fixing the ouside so it looks better, you're on you own on that one.

Good luck,

Steve

[V7Goose]

I have never seen one of those bags damaged like that, nor do I have any idea what might have caused it. But a permanent repair is relatively easy with fresh ABS pipe cement.

 

The solvent in the pipe cement actually dissolves the plastic so it does a complete weld that actually makes the two pieces one single piece again. If you do it carefully, you might even not feel the need to have it repainted. To get the pieces properly repaired you must make sure the solvent gets in the crack to coat the pieces where they actually touch - this is not like epoxy that can add strength by a layer on the outside - it must actually melt the two pieces together.

 

The tricky part for you will be to try and keep it from squeezing out on the outside of the bag. If it does get on the outside finish, you don't want to try and wipe it off, since that will mar the surface. Let it completely cure than try to shave any excess along the old crack. With care and a new razor blade, you can do this without scratching. The good thing is that this cement is almost all solvent and no filler, so once it cures there won't be much residue left.

 

Finally, pay attention to that comment about "completely cure". When done right, the repaired ABS will be absolutely as strong as it was when new, but this takes time to let all the solvent flash off - hot sunlight for several hours is minimum - overnight is best. If you put any stress on it before the solvent is completely gone, the plastic will separate again.

Goose

[kj5ix]

Yes ABS pipe cement will do it.

 

Looks like Some One rested their self on the lid while it was open to me

[Guest tx2sturgis]

That is strange...its almost looks like a manufacturing defect. Its so uniform. What year is your bike? Have you ever removed the saddlebags? If so, did you struggle with the alignment of the top two holes when reattaching it? I wonder if something is 'tweaked'. Pulling a trailer wont cause this. But maybe if the alignment of the support frame is off a bit, it COULD make it worse, and put a strain on the bag.

 

And yes ABS glue works! It will be labeled "ABS Cement", normally the Oatey brand is available in a small blue 4 oz can...this should be PLENTY. its not more than a few dollars.

 

Any of the big box home improvement stores will have it in the plumbing section.

 

Edited July 12, 2010 by tx2sturgis

[Mariner Fan]

Jerry, does that crack go all the way up to the lid? How the heck did that happen?

[Sideoftheroad]

Of hitch do you have and how is it attached to the bike?

 

Does the hitch attach directly to the frame just below the passenger seat, or does it attach to the same rails that the saddle bag sets on?

 

The dammage can only be caused by some flexing someplace it shouldn't. Unless....

 

You should see what my wife tries to stuff in a saddle bag...10 pounds of $#@T in a 5 pound bag. I have to monitor that situation closely.

 

It is the Diamond R hitch so it uses the same rails as the saddlebags. I actually just cleaned out both bags and the trunk, but even before then, it wasn't overstuffed.

[Sideoftheroad]

What year is your bike? Have you ever removed the saddlebags? If so, did you struggle with the alignment of the top two holes when reattaching it?

 

1999. Yes I have removed the saddlebags several times w/out issue. Alignment never really hasn't been much of an issue though. Sure at 1st might not perfectly line up, but never had been hard to get it to line up. I would start w/ a couple bolts and tighten the bolts down (not all the way), leave them loose enough so I can move the saddlebags into position so I can get all the bolts in easily. Once they are all lined up, tighten them all down the rest of the way.

 

Do you think overtightening the bolts cause something like this?

 

When everyone is refering to ABS plastic cement, is this the same stuff you join 2 peices of PVC together. You use the purple stuff 1st (sorry can't remember exactly what it is called right now at 12:15 am - primer?) and then the clear glue?

[Sideoftheroad]

Jerry, does that crack go all the way up to the lid? How the heck did that happen?

 

Yup goes all they way up to the lid. Lid is undamaged though. Have no idea how it happened. I think someone hit it and didn't want to fess up. I don't think the trailer would have caused it and supposed overtightened bolts could have caused this, but I think even that is a bit of a stretch. I think the dealer was the last one to remove the bag when they swapped out the rear brake caliper, but could be wrong. Can't prove it at this point. I suppose if everything wasn't lined up it caused enough stress to cause this, but even have a hard time w/ that one. Also all the rubber pieces are there so I would think there is enough dampening to not have caused this by road bumps and I think they would have to be awefully hard.

 

I left Kevin a message since he works at a body shop. If he responds maybe he will be willing to fix it and get it back before I leave for STAR Days on Sunday. I know he's got alot on his plate right now too. If he can't do it, I am sure I can do the job myself w/ the suggestions given. Didn't see any replacement bags on e-bay, doubt I could afford it anyway even a used one. let alone have it on my doorstep by Friday or Saturday.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

 

When everyone is refering to ABS plastic cement, is this the same stuff you join 2 peices of PVC together. You use the purple stuff 1st (sorry can't remember exactly what it is called right now at 12:15 am - primer?) and then the clear glue?

 

 

No it is called ABS Cement. Not pvc or cpvc.

 

Look for a small blue can.

[saddlebum]

This is what I used to completly rebuild all the smashed plastic on my bike after my accident in 2008. I even made one good panel out of two bad ones with it, and reassembled pieces like a jigsaw puzzel.

http://plastex.net/ use fiberglass cloth to reinforce on the inside. You also do not need to use spot filler because this stuff does it all it will sand as smooth as the original. P/S don't worry about praportions the stuff is idiot proof, and if you fold a piece of cellephane tape over your finger it smooths out real nice.

[Sideoftheroad]

What is the best way to apply ABS pipe cement?

 

At least what I think is push one side out (slightly) use something like a flat head screwdriver and apply to the edge that is not pushed out. When you push the other side back in, both edges will then be in contact w/ cement and also any excess should be pushed towards the inside of the saddlebag.

 

Thoughts? Thanks.

[V7Goose]

What is the best way to apply ABS pipe cement?

 

At least what I think is push one side out (slightly) use something like a flat head screwdriver and apply to the edge that is not pushed out. When you push the other side back in, both edges will then be in contact w/ cement and also any excess should be pushed towards the inside of the saddlebag.

 

Thoughts? Thanks.

I don't like the method you describe. There needs to be enough solvent on BOTH sides of the break to create a layer of melted plastic that can combine. If you just push out one side and apply it like you said, the sharp edge of the other piece will pretty much wipe all the solvent off when it slides back. If you are going to try and do it like that, after applying the solvent to one side, I would pull the break apart and push the other side out without letting the pieces touch as they switch positions. This will allow you to coat bother surfaces with solvent, then pull them apart again to reposition the pieces for the final join. This method will prevent wiping off any of the solvent by letting one piece scrape against the other one.

 

An alternative is to use toothpicks just barely inserted in several places to hold the crack apart. Then use the dauber to squish solvent into the gap. With the toothpicks in place, you might think about using a strip of painter's tape over the outside of the crack to keep the solvent from being squished through. You do not have to worry about getting excess solvent on the inside of the bag - it won't hurt anything.

 

I know you want to try and avoid getting much of that stuff on the outside of the crack, but to get a good weld you need to make sure you use enough to melt the surface of the plastic on both sides of the break. I also like to kind of lightly wiggle the pieces after they are joined to try and mix the plastic together.

Goose

[Sideoftheroad]

Might seem like a silly question, but does the dauber come w/ the piping cement?

 

Another thought I have if I am using toothpicks to seperate the plastic, couldn't I use another toothpick to apply the cement?

 

Good tip on painters tape on the outside.

[V7Goose]

Yes, the dauber always comes in the can.

 

You can apply the cement with anything you like, but you will have a difficult time getting enough on a long crack like that with the tip of a toothpick. Using this solvent is not like a normal glue - you are welding the plastic together by melting both pieces. The more it melts, the better the weld, so more cement is usually better than less. If you use flat toothpicks to hold the crack open (that would be about half as wide as a round toothpick), then you can just fill the crack with solvent and all will be good. Let it sit that way for 30 seconds to a minute to soften the plastic, then pull out the toothpicks and ensure the two pieces are properly aligned. And this is not like superglue - you have lots of time to get the parts positioned just right; in fact, a little futzing around with them seems to make the joint even better since the plastic mixes more with any motion. But once it is right, leave it completely alone until it is totally cured.

Goose

[waterbug]

Hey Jerry I just seen this, I havent been on here much lately sorry and i didnt get a message you sent. Just a thought take the lid off to relieve preasure and take some paint sticks or somthing and cut them to fit inside the top of the bag and tape them in to hold the side were you want them so they dont flex in or out. I dont know on the abs stuff i have never used it on repairing plastices but that doesnt mean it wont work if others have tried it and say it works great then go for it. I use a two part epoxy at work with a high strenght. I would recomend after you do this to use maybe a black eposy of somekind with a fiberglass tape or something just for extra support for the future.

I have worked with alot of abs and the way it cracked unless it was cold or hit real hard I dont think that did it. If it is a stress crack from the way it was put on I would say it would be around the mounts. It looks like someone opend it up and pulled on the side or over stuffed it to me from the pic. could have had a sress crack that you didnt see and something happend and opened her up. It only happens when you dont want it to. Good luck

[Shamue]

sryinges make excellent applicators.

i have used them several times to get into tight places

for repairs i don't want show.

[Mariner Fan]

Sounds like you have some good info here Jerry. Are you going on the ride next Saturday? I'm curious to see it myself.

[Sideoftheroad]

Bob,

You mean to Kersting's? Since I am going to STAR Days, I won't be going to Kerstings. I would offer for you to stop by the house, but we have lots to do that Saturday too.

 

Funny you mention tension on the mounts Kevin. Check out some additional pics I just took. More spider cracks and the side is all scraped up towards the bottom edge. Pics from the bottom the rear bottom mount the paint is peeling and also cracked.

 

Just asked the wife if any of the kids opened the lid and tried to stand on it. She said no. I do know they do climb on it, but I haven't seen them jump on it. They just climb on it to get to the seat so I don't think that would have caused all this damage. I am still leaning towards someone hit it.

 

Once I get back from STAR Days, I think I am going to go back and use fiberglass cloth or tape to reinforce it that much more. Neighbor said he is going to bring some really thin peices of metal to act as a bridge between the 2 cracked peices. I can jb weld them in place to pull it all in.

 

Not to get anyone started, but would lean towards claiming this on insurance, but one of the 1st words out of their mouth is if you file, we will raise your rates. Even though we have been with them for several years and never filed a claim (yeah I know we need to do some insurance shopping). We have talked to them about filing on homeowners for roof damage, but again, they said if you do, we will raise your rates. Defeats the purpose of having insurance IMO. Again not to get anyone started on the topic.

Edited July 14, 2010 by Sideoftheroad

[Sideoftheroad]

Just got back in from filling in that huge diagonal crack. Really only needed 1 flat toothpick towards the bottom as it kept everything above it open.

 

Didn't see any reason to try the spider cracks. I wouldn't be able to get anything in those hairline cracks.

 

Verdict is still out for looks on the outside of the saddlebag until I can get the razor blade out and gingerly scrape off the excess. I won't be able to do it until this time tomorrow night so I am sure 24 hrs is plenty of cure time.

 

I tried to make sure the tape had a good seal on the outside, but didn't really work that well. Alot still oozed out when I pushed it all back together. I think the reason is you can't put it on with the crack pushed together as you can't pull it apart to get the cement on the crack edges. If you put the tape on with the crack apart, when you put it together that loosens up the tape in the middle where the crack is at.

 

Found the blue 4 oz Oatley bottle at Lowes. Sure wish that abs pipe cement was clear instead of black. I found others that were general purpose for pvc and abs, but since the Oatley one was recommended not sure if the general purpose one would have been as good.

 

Just for kicks, I went to a Yamaha parts fiche and it is a little over 1k for a new one. That ain't gonna happen. I could find a used one and have it repainted for alot cheaper than that.

 

I think this bike and me were destined for each other. :-( :-)