titansedriver Posted July 6, 2010 #1 Posted July 6, 2010 Someone PLEEEEEASE tell me that there is a way to remove the ignition coils from my 89 Venture without removing ALL the front fairing!!----I thought I saw a thread on here a while back saying you could remove the battery box and air filter and remove them that way--also--how common is it to have "cracked" ignition coils--bike started running like crap and a friend suggested plug wires---got ready to replace the plug wires and noticed that the first 2 coils are cracked all the way across the top--found a complete set on E-bay--but now need help removing the old ones!!--------Thanx------Larry
dingy Posted July 6, 2010 #2 Posted July 6, 2010 Here is the recent thread about removing the coils. I posted a couple of pictures towards end showing coil mount points. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50330 I think you need to remove fairings, if not, your vocabulary will be increased with several new four letter words !! Not saying it hasn't been done though. Gary
Yammer Dan Posted July 6, 2010 #3 Posted July 6, 2010 Fairings not that big a thing just got to watch and don't add more cracks than you will find by pulling too hard when you don't have all screws out. This is one of those don't ask things!!
titansedriver Posted July 7, 2010 Author #4 Posted July 7, 2010 Hey Dan--So are you saying that the FRONT fairing comes off pretty easily?---I have all the side fairing off-I was just a little leary about all the wiring hookups for the lights and accessorries---Guess I;ll give it a shot tommorrow evening after work--Thanx......Larry
dingy Posted July 7, 2010 #5 Posted July 7, 2010 Remove faux tank cover Remove side covers Remove the windshield trim, then the windshield, 4 screws in each. Remove both mirrors, 2 screws each, under rubber cover. Remove headlight bezel, 2 screws. Remove air intake below headlight, 4 screws. Remove center bracket behind and at bottom of head light, 2 screws. Remove grilled chrome covers directly behind radiator, 2 screws Remove knee fairings & crossover piece, 3 screws/bolts each ? Remove right & left fairing pockets. Remove air grills to right & left of handlebars, right side is a little hard to get out due to hazard switch. Remove right & left console panels (speakers mounted to), unplug speakers. Unplug turn signal lights Remove left & right fairings, 3 bolts each, watch for special washers. Do not allow fairing to hang by 1 bolt, keep supported to prevent cracking. From here on it gets a little fuzzy. Remove radio amplifier bracket on left side. Remove left black inner fairing cover. Remove radiator overflow bottle on right side. Remove right black inner fairing cover. You should now have a view of the coil bracket. Taking it apart is the easy part of this. Putting back together and getting everything to line up is a little more challenging. Work out some sort of system for keeping fasteners in some order, it will make putting back together easier. While you are this deep, I would recommend you relocate TCI to top of air cleaner. To do this, you need to cut off one of the mounting lugs on the TCI. You can use high strength velcro to mount. I think I got most of the steps, done this a few times. Gary
jasonm. Posted July 7, 2010 #6 Posted July 7, 2010 It looks like I have a failing coil or 2 when she gets wick'ed hot. Since I got my carbs set using an EGA. And following the manual tests, I know now that's all it can be. I have had the fairing apart 2 times. And know it's fastening points pretty well. I will try a short cut. Leaving the painted side pieces in place and somehow loosening up the inner black pieces and hope to get to the 4 bolts holding the tray...and get them out...somehow. The battery box and air box removal just does not cut it from my view point.
titansedriver Posted July 8, 2010 Author #7 Posted July 8, 2010 Let me know how it comes out Jason---I sure am dreading removing all that frontend just to get to some coils that I can now sit on the seat and look at but cant get a socket on!!!.................Larry
mbrood Posted July 8, 2010 #8 Posted July 8, 2010 Have you checked basic resistance on the secondary side of the coil... Ohming between the ignition fuse and the inside of each spark plug holder... each should read about 23k... 13k for the coil secondary and 10k for the resistor inside the spark plug holder... my #4 was acting up periodically... it measure 33k... I pulled the high tension wire off the coil and saw a slight bit of green corrosion on the wire end, cliped a small bit off, reasembled and it then read the 23k.
Keemez Posted April 6, 2012 #9 Posted April 6, 2012 I'm gonna resurrect this old thread. I had a metallic ticking noise at idle and low engine speeds that sounded for all the world like a lifter, but it would go away when the handlebars were turned far enough off center so I knew it wasn't internal engine. In the midst of doing several other projects and ideas I discovered the culprit. The mounting bracket for the front left coil broke and the metal on metal was what I was hearing. Repositioned the coil a little further away and put a piece of rubber between the two sharp edges- problem solved. See photo. This is just an FYI, for whatever good it will serve.
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