Battery - Power failure

[Jacopo]

I've installed a new battery on my Royal Venture 2006, after 2 weeks without using the motorcycle, there was not enough juice to start the machine, I went to the battery merchant who assured me the battery was good but still gave me a new one. I had the same problem again , back from a 2 weeks vacation the battery was dead. Not even enough juice to light anything. When it happended the first time I went to the Yamaha dealer who checked the battery and poles etc.... he told me the only juice the battery was pulling was from the clock which pulls 0.005 amp

I wonder what is pulling the juice out so it won't start after 2 weeks witout using the motorcycle.

Please help

Thanks in advance

Jacopo

Edited June 28, 2010 by Jacopo

[kj5ix]

Did you do the 4 to 6 hour charge that is required to set the battery up for use, or ride it for a couple hundred miles to charge it. running it for 30 minutes wont do it...

[Sylvester]

Did you do the 4 to 6 hour charge that is required to set the battery up for use, or ride it for a couple hundred miles to charge it. running it for 30 minutes wont do it...

 

That is one thing that many forget. It needs a lot of charging over a period of time. My friend put a new battery in his 06' RSV and called me two days later and said it was dead. I told him to put it on the battery tender for the next four or five days. This did not hurt his riding since he has an 09 Indian Heritage, 09 Harley Ultra Cassic and an 05 Triumph Bonneville.

 

[ediddy]

If you find what caused your battery to go dead, please let me know. The same thing happened to me last year. It was so hot I didn't ride for a week and the battery went dead. I bought a new battery and starting charging it at 4:00PM unti the next morning at 8:00am. The battery was fine until I went about a week without riding and it went dead. I took it back to the dealer and it was so dead they couldn't even get a reading to check it so they gave me another battery at no charge. The new battery was fine for a few weeks and it did the same thing. I charged it and bought a battery tender and kept the tender on it went I wasn't riding. I went a few days without riding and without the tender on it and it went dead. I took my bike to the dealer and left it for two weeks and told them to deal with it. It is still under warranty. The dealer checked everything on the bike and determined the rectifier was bad so they replaced the rectifier and battery under warranty. The battery was strong and worked fine for a couple of months. A few weeks ago I didn't ride for a week and when I went out to start the bike the battery was completely dead. I don't know what could be causing the battery to go dead. The battery that came with my bike in september 2005 never gave me a problem until June 2009. I don't know what changed but would like to know what you find.

[BigSexxy]

Yeah same here on 99. Tender in use all the time so I dont get caught off guard. Watching for answers.

[Riderinthesnow]

If you find what caused your battery to go dead, please let me know. The same thing happened to me last year. It was so hot I didn't ride for a week and the battery went dead. I bought a new battery and starting charging it at 4:00PM unti the next morning at 8:00am. The battery was fine until I went about a week without riding and it went dead. I took it back to the dealer and it was so dead they couldn't even get a reading to check it so they gave me another battery at no charge. The new battery was fine for a few weeks and it did the same thing. I charged it and bought a battery tender and kept the tender on it went I wasn't riding. I went a few days without riding and without the tender on it and it went dead. I took my bike to the dealer and left it for two weeks and told them to deal with it. It is still under warranty. The dealer checked everything on the bike and determined the rectifier was bad so they replaced the rectifier and battery under warranty. The battery was strong and worked fine for a couple of months. A few weeks ago I didn't ride for a week and when I went out to start the bike the battery was completely dead. I don't know what could be causing the battery to go dead. The battery that came with my bike in september 2005 never gave me a problem until June 2009. I don't know what changed but would like to know what you find.

Do you have a light in the top box which does not shut of when you close the lid? It happened to me!

[ediddy]

Nope, I don't have a light in the trunk. The only thing I have that isn't stock is a mic mute.

[Jacopo]

I am lost..... there is no additionnal lights , nothing added to the bike. The battery was fully charged and worked fine for a while.

 

Is there anyone that has measure the amperage that is drawn by a RSV with the key turned OFF ???? This would be very helpfull for me to know as it will determine the next debugging step.

 

Once again I will measure the current draw by my bike and will report as soon as possible.

 

Many thanks in advance

 

Jacopo

[GeorgeS]

Find the Regulator/Regulator Unit. Remove the Plug, it has the 3 phase ( large wires, 3 of them ) and the DC wire, and Ground .

 

Pull the plug out, and Carefully inspect the Male and Female Pins for any sign of Burn Damage !!! Use a bright light ant magnifiying glass.

 

Several folks have found their Charging Problem on the 2nd Gens at this Point.

 

IF pins are damage, you will have to re-build the Plug.

 

Do these Tests:

 

1. Get Access to Positive Battery Terminal, or Aux power plug.

 

2. Useing a Digital Volt/ Ohm Meter ( if you don't have one, beg, borrow or buy one ) Disconnect the battery at POS terminal and read the DC voltage. IF battery is fully charged it should read at least 12.2 Volts.

 

Re connect battery. With Engine running at 2000 RPM or higher measure the DC Charging Voltage, at battery, or the Aux Power jack.

 

------ You should see, AT LEAST 13.8 TO 14.00 VOLTS DC, if the charging system is working. IF below, 12.8 or so, ( lets say below 13.0 ) most likley the plug at the R/R unit is defective, or the Stator has ONE Phase fried .

 

 

3. Check the Fluid level in the battery, make sure its above the plates in all 6 sections !!!

 

4. CHARGE THE BATTERY AT 2 AMP OR HIGHER RATE, for at least 8 hours, if its now dead.

 

5. Remove and Clean, Both ends of both battery Cables !!! Consider Re-soldering the Studs, on both ends of both cables.

 

 

 

You will most likley find your problem at the PLUG, of the Regulator Unit !!!

 

You might have a bad Stator Unit.

 

To test the Stator, follow the 3, Large, 3 Phase wires from the Stator, going to the R/R UNIT. Useing Digital meter, Measure the AC VOLTAGE ( AC, NOT DC ) going to the R/R Unit. You should see SAME voltage on all 3 wires read against ground.

Readings should be about 6 to 12 Volts, and will vary with engine speed. The main point here is that all 3 wires read about the same, + or - 1 volt.

 

IF one Phase is considerable lower in voltage, then the other two, --- THEN YOU NEED A NEW STATOR !!!! ----

 

The Service manual method of checking Stator, useing Resistance Readings, WILL NOT TELL YOU IF THE STATOR IS GOOD OR BAD !!!!! You have to Read the 3 phase output voltage with the Engine Running!!! ( Trust me, I've been there !!!! )

[fishrepair]

I had the same trouble this past Friday. I was expecting to replace the stator. I pulled the side panels and checked the connecting plug ins from the stator and to the regulator. They were both fried. I mean the were melted together. I had been having battery trouble for some time. I have replaced the battery 3 times in a year and a half. I did away with the plug ins and soldered the wires together, I then insulated them well. At least I won't have any more plug in problems. Did I mention that my battery now charges great and holds a charge too? It almost starts before I engage the starter now.

[bkuhr]

 

4. CHARGE THE BATTERY AT 2 AMP OR HIGHER RATE, for at least 8 hours, if its now dead.

 

 

Don't charge MC batteries at too high an amp rate, will boil electrolite out and sulfate the plates ruining the battery. Also not healthy for gel cell batteries. It is possible to add distilled water to boiled battery and it may seem fine, but the damage is done and will not last long. Also as a reminder, never add tap water to batteries. Used only distilled water. Minerals in tap water will build shorts accross the plates

 

I have little "computerized" charger I use for MC battery initial charge. It has settings for 2,4,and 6 amps. I charge at 2 amps until it detects full charge and shuts off, about 8 hours.

[Jacopo]

Did you do the 4 to 6 hour charge that is required to set the battery up for use, or ride it for a couple hundred miles to charge it. running it for 30 minutes wont do it...

Yes I did on the first new battery and again on the second new one installed two weeks after since I tought it was a battery problem

Thanks

[Jacopo]

Do you have a light in the top box which does not shut of when you close the lid? It happened to me!

No I don't , but thanks for the lead

[Jacopo]

Find the Regulator/Regulator Unit. Remove the Plug, it has the 3 phase ( large wires, 3 of them ) and the DC wire, and Ground .

 

Pull the plug out, and Carefully inspect the Male and Female Pins for any sign of Burn Damage !!! Use a bright light ant magnifiying glass.

 

Several folks have found their Charging Problem on the 2nd Gens at this Point.

 

IF pins are damage, you will have to re-build the Plug.

 

Do these Tests:

 

1. Get Access to Positive Battery Terminal, or Aux power plug.

 

2. Useing a Digital Volt/ Ohm Meter ( if you don't have one, beg, borrow or buy one ) Disconnect the battery at POS terminal and read the DC voltage. IF battery is fully charged it should read at least 12.2 Volts.

 

Re connect battery. With Engine running at 2000 RPM or higher measure the DC Charging Voltage, at battery, or the Aux Power jack.

 

------ You should see, AT LEAST 13.8 TO 14.00 VOLTS DC, if the charging system is working. IF below, 12.8 or so, ( lets say below 13.0 ) most likley the plug at the R/R unit is defective, or the Stator has ONE Phase fried .

 

 

3. Check the Fluid level in the battery, make sure its above the plates in all 6 sections !!!

 

4. CHARGE THE BATTERY AT 2 AMP OR HIGHER RATE, for at least 8 hours, if its now dead.

 

5. Remove and Clean, Both ends of both battery Cables !!! Consider Re-soldering the Studs, on both ends of both cables.

 

 

 

You will most likley find your problem at the PLUG, of the Regulator Unit !!!

 

You might have a bad Stator Unit.

 

To test the Stator, follow the 3, Large, 3 Phase wires from the Stator, going to the R/R UNIT. Useing Digital meter, Measure the AC VOLTAGE ( AC, NOT DC ) going to the R/R Unit. You should see SAME voltage on all 3 wires read against ground.

Readings should be about 6 to 12 Volts, and will vary with engine speed. The main point here is that all 3 wires read about the same, + or - 1 volt.

 

IF one Phase is considerable lower in voltage, then the other two, --- THEN YOU NEED A NEW STATOR !!!! ----

 

The Service manual method of checking Stator, useing Resistance Readings, WILL NOT TELL YOU IF THE STATOR IS GOOD OR BAD !!!!! You have to Read the 3 phase output voltage with the Engine Running!!! ( Trust me, I've been there !!!! )

Many Thanks Georges, I figure that should solve the problem. My son in law is working at a Yamaha dealer as a mechanic but he is on vacation this week ( he is aware of the problem but don't seem to have a solution ) When he comes back from vacation I will do what you suggest and let you know of the outcome

Many , many thanks

Jacopo

[Jacopo]

I had the same trouble this past Friday. I was expecting to replace the stator. I pulled the side panels and checked the connecting plug ins from the stator and to the regulator. They were both fried. I mean the were melted together. I had been having battery trouble for some time. I have replaced the battery 3 times in a year and a half. I did away with the plug ins and soldered the wires together, I then insulated them well. At least I won't have any more plug in problems. Did I mention that my battery now charges great and holds a charge too? It almost starts before I engage the starter now.

 

I will do what you have done and let you know of the outcome

Many thanks

[LilBeaver]

I've installed a new battery on my Royal Venture 2006, after 2 weeks without using the motorcycle, there was not enough juice to start the machine, I went to the battery merchant who assured me the battery was good but still gave me a new one. I had the same problem again , back from a 2 weeks vacation the battery was dead. Not even enough juice to light anything. When it happended the first time I went to the Yamaha dealer who checked the battery and poles etc.... he told me the only juice the battery was pulling was from the clock which pulls 0.005 amp

I wonder what is pulling the juice out so it won't start after 2 weeks witout using the motorcycle.

Please help

Thanks in advance

Jacopo

 

 

You have a 2006, which means you are likely still under warranty. Get that sucker in for the dealer to at least make a note that you are having problems so it can get taken care of. George has outlined the likely sources of the problems but since you are under warranty you should not have to pay to have it fixed (for parts, labor or diagnostics - although doing the diagnostics on your own and giving the dealer suggestions may work in your favor).

 

Based on your description of the problem, I do agree with George that it could be your reg/rectifier unit. It could also be a corroded ground or a wire that is shorting to ground either intermittently or constantly.

 

Something else you ought to do is go through the fuse box with an ammeter (multimeter set to measure DC Current) Start with the main fuse (located behind the little plastic plate where the passenger's left ankle would sit) - it is a 30A fuse. With the Ignition switch/key in the OFF position, measure the current through that holder (Remove the fuse and either touch the wires from the backside, or CAREFULLY touch the contacts on the inside of the fuse holder. You should read something on the order of a few milli-amps. Write down whatever reading you get.

Re-install the main fuse and remove the left hand side cover that is right infront of the left passenger foot peg. Note that the only functional screw is the one that is rear-most on the bike. Locate the "Back-up" fuse and pull that and do make the same measurement. Make a note of what you end up with. If you find that the readings are identical (or within a few mili-amps of each other) then you either have an intermittent problem somewhere, or an issue that George has discussed above and I will not repeat here.

 

If you find that the readings differ by something that is not negligible, then reinstall the back-up fuse (don't worry your reverse will function the same as it did before you removed the fuse) and pull the next fuse in line and make the same measurement removing and reinstalling each until you find something else that reads something that is non-zero. Once you do that you have found your circuit that is 'leaking' while your bike is off.

 

I will add though that you do not necessarily need to measure the AC voltage out of the stator. You can simply measure the resistance in a similar fashion. The service manual outlines what the resistance tolerance levels are for the stator. But it is whatever you are comfortable with (or have the tools to make the measurements).

 

There are a few main grounds on these bikes that ground the electrical components to the frame. One down by the horn, one on the right hand side of the bike (front brake lever side) in front of the fuel tank behind the plastic cover just under the ignition switch, one under the trunk (used for the CB) and another point that connects the radio amplifier to ground via a braided cable from the inside of the fairing (on the radio amp) to the spot just in front of the fuel tank.

 

Just a little more info that might help. Also, the "Search" tool located on the bar on the top of the main page here can be quite useful. There have been a handful of variations on this issue in the past so you may find some more useful reading there as well.

 

Anyways, I'll reiterate that you are still under warranty and it would probably behoove you to take it in to at least make a note of the problem so if it come back after you are out of warranty, there is a chance it can still get fixed with limited cost to you.