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Posted (edited)
So our headlights are NOT sealed beam bulbs?:think:

The 2nd gens use a standard H4 replaceable bulb in a fixed housing, not a sealed beam.

 

The height adjustment on the bilb is easily changed while astride the bike. The housing DOES have a lateral adjustment inside the fairing, but to make any accurate change to that adjustment you would not only have to split the fairing, but also have a way to ensure the forks were EXACTLY in line with the rear tire. Most anybody simply assumes the lateral adjustment is close enough from the factory and only adjust the height.

Goose

Edited by V7Goose
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Posted
On the RSTD, you just unscrew two screws, unhook the plug, unclip the retainer, clip on the new bulb, connect the plug, and put the light back on with the two screws. It is literally a five minute job... the first time.

Dave

Five minute job on the RSTD, but not the RSV! Unless you have midget hands and lots of patience, you need to split the fairing to access the bulb on the RSV.

Goose

Posted
Five minute job on the RSTD, but not the RSV! Unless you have midget hands and lots of patience, you need to split the fairing to access the bulb on the RSV.

Goose

Ha ha! I guess I'll let you keep your cassette player and I'll keep my headlight bucket, and call it square. :rotfl:

 

Dave

Posted
Let me ask this... the standard aiming technique uses a wall not so far away. Does anyone go out on a dark two-lane and test afterward? That would seem to be the "proof is in the pudding" scenario. It would also help clarify your point about legal bulb patterns.
The Sylvania - HID Hi/Lo comparison pix clearly indicate the HID is adjusted too high, significantly higher than the Sylvania. There is not much value in comparing glare or light patterns with a maladjusted headlight.

 

Here is a simple method to set the headlight.

Motorcycle Headlight Aiming

Getting a correctly aimed headlight is straightforward. You need to make a couple of measurements and then aim the light at a flat wall, as follows:

 

With the bike on its wheels and you astride, have a helper measure the distance from the floor to the center of the headlight lens.

 

Pick a flat wall where you can locate the bike so the headlight is 17 feet from the wall. Place a horizontal mark on the wall two (2) inches lower than the height of the center of the headlight.

 

The headlight beam (on low beam) should be relatively flat on the top, and may rise rather sharply at the right edge. Adjust the headlight vertically so that the flat top of the beam is just up to that line (marked two inches down at 17 feet).

 

Horizontal adjustment should center the beam ahead of the line of the bike.

The loading of the MC will significantly affect the aim so for general bopping about do the measurements with a normal load including driver. Going for a ride on a dark road is a good idea so you know where the beams should be. This would be particularly important on a bike like the Venture which has an adjustment knob that allows the headlight aim to be easily varied and not forgetting the dramatic load changes possible with the large storage areas at the rear.
Posted

Based on an article I just stumbled across on the OSRAM web site, it seems that there is at least one aftermarket HID conversion that uses a bulb that complies with the SAE J1383 beam pattern. This is a big change since the last time I researched these lights. If one of those is used AND it is properly adjusted and used on low beam when any vehicle is in front of the bike, I am sure I would have absolutely no complaints about glare or irritation.

 

I'd suggest anyone looking at an HID conversion make sure they are marked as "street legal", since that will ensure the correct beam pattern. It is certainly possible that all of the conversions I have seen do have proper and legal bulbs, but are just not properly adjusted. In that case, my complaints are not against the HID light. ANY improperly adjusted light, no mater what kind of technology, is a bad thing. I remain firmly behind my opinions about deliberately blinding and irritating other drivers on the road.

Goose

Posted
The Sylvania - HID Hi/Lo comparison pix clearly indicate the HID is adjusted too high, significantly higher than the Sylvania. There is not much value in comparing glare or light patterns with a maladjusted headlight.

 

Here is a simple method to set the headlight.

Motorcycle Headlight Aiming

Getting a correctly aimed headlight is straightforward. You need to make a couple of measurements and then aim the light at a flat wall, as follows:

 

With the bike on its wheels and you astride, have a helper measure the distance from the floor to the center of the headlight lens.

 

Pick a flat wall where you can locate the bike so the headlight is 17 feet from the wall. Place a horizontal mark on the wall two (2) inches lower than the height of the center of the headlight.

 

The headlight beam (on low beam) should be relatively flat on the top, and may rise rather sharply at the right edge. Adjust the headlight vertically so that the flat top of the beam is just up to that line (marked two inches down at 17 feet).

 

Horizontal adjustment should center the beam ahead of the line of the bike.

I went out this evening and adjusted my headlamps. Where the method above indicated a drop of 2" at 17', the HID was aimed 8" high at 17'. In other words, instead of sloping down, the beam was raising up.

 

It was also at least 6" left of center. The net effect would surely be the HID beaming straight into an oncoming driver's eyes. That's asking for trouble.

 

I think the message is that even though "they" say you do not need to adjust your HID bulbs, do.

 

The good news is that the beam seems proper, with a clear cut off. The edges do raise up, as well.

 

I'll retake the photos some other night. It is a steam bath out there!

 

Dave

Posted

One item I noticed had not been mentioned, the HID only uses 35 Watts of power where the Ultra uses 55 Watts (at least).

 

I ran a SilverStar (not Ultra) for several years and many thousands of miles without difficulty. The HID, however, really kicks out the lumens. I now need to find a way to replace my driving lights with 4" HIDs and I will be searing the retinas out of those damn forest rats.

 

RR

Posted
One item I noticed had not been mentioned, the HID only uses 35 Watts of power where the Ultra uses 55 Watts (at least).

 

I ran a SilverStar (not Ultra) for several years and many thousands of miles without difficulty. The HID, however, really kicks out the lumens. I now need to find a way to replace my driving lights with 4" HIDs and I will be searing the retinas out of those damn forest rats.

 

RR

 

Check HID country, they have an H3 HID setup for your driving lights.

Again at 35W instead of 55W.

Posted
I tried the Sylvania Silver Star and it didn't last very long before it burned out. I then went with the Cool Blue (alot cheaper) and to me works just as good.

 

I put Silverstars in my Van a couple of years ago and it was the same case. These things lasted barley a year. I used them a second time and it was the same case, about 1 year. Now I'm back to standard halogen.

Posted
Check HID country, they have an H3 HID setup for your driving lights.

Again at 35W instead of 55W.

If I replace my passing lamps, it will be with something like this, the PIAA Cross Country HID. The essential feature for me is internal ballast and igniter. I may jump on another brand, because these are really spendy, but it will not have the separate ballast that I cannot hide; it will be in the housing.

 

Dave

Posted

I have run PIAA's Silverstars and HID's. I'll take the HID any night of the week. I think your right when you say the camera won't pick up its true brightness. All the Silverstars I had blew out in about a year. The PIAA's last a long time but HID's are cheaper than than PIAA's now.

The reflector (and the position of the light source within it IE: filament or discharge chamber) decides the focus and pattern of the light. I have a Bosch motorcycle headlight that I used on my RSV. It works well with the H4 HID and put outs a good flat pattern. Never had anybody flash their hi beams at me thinking I had mine on hi unless I did have them on hi.

Posted
If I replace my passing lamps, it will be with something like this, the PIAA Cross Country HID. The essential feature for me is internal ballast and igniter. I may jump on another brand, because these are really spendy, but it will not have the separate ballast that I cannot hide; it will be in the housing.

 

Dave

 

Those PIAAs look really nice but you are certainly right that they are spendy. :mo money:

Posted
Check HID country, they have an H3 HID setup for your driving lights.

Again at 35W instead of 55W.

 

Jeff,

 

My driving lights are sealed beams instead of H3 style. Not sure what I need to do to change this out. Just started looking. Thanks for the info on HID Country.

 

RR

Posted
I looked at my options last year and bought this from Biker Highway for $43.

 

H4 135/125W SuperPlasma GT-X Anti-Vibration PIAA Motorcycle Headlight Bulb (70476) (70476)

 

http://www.bikerhiway.com/h4-135125w-superplasma-gtx-antivibration-piaa-motorcycle-headlight-bulb-p-256.html

 

I like it. It's far brighter than what I had and in high beam it really lights up the road.

 

I notice that there is a disclaimer at the bottom of this ad that says this bulb is not intended for highway use.

Just curious, has anybody here ever been stopped and the DOT approval verified for any lighting?:confused07:

Posted

Friends don't let friends buy Silverstar bulbs.

I understand your personal preferences, but they sure ain't mine. I have been using SilverStar ULTRAs for years in all my vehicles, have 80,000+ miles on the original SilverStar Ultara in my 05 RSV, and I have NEVER had one fail yet. Not in the RSV or any other vehicle. Love the fantastic light output. I'll keep using them and recommending them to friends.

Goose

Posted (edited)
If I replace my passing lamps, it will be with something like this, the PIAA Cross Country HID. The essential feature for me is internal ballast and igniter. I may jump on another brand, because these are really spendy, but it will not have the separate ballast that I cannot hide; it will be in the housing.

 

Dave

Check out price of those things, not in this boys world. I put an ultra and two 50 watt show chrome driving lights on (I ride to work and it's at night) all the light up front that you need for a tad under 200 I'll compare my front light set to any hid (I just don't have all the blue) update search the best price 461.00 amazon I'll leave them in the store

Edited by Arcs&Sparks
added content
Posted
Check out price of those things, not in this boys world. I put an ultra and two 50 watt show chrome driving lights on (I ride to work and it's at night) all the light up front that you need for a tad under 200 I'll compare my front light set to any hid (I just don't have all the blue) update search the best price 461.00 amazon I'll leave them in the store

Well, I said they were spendy didn't I? :whistling:

 

But, they are the driving light of choice for Iron Butt riders, and that tells me what I need to know. Glad you are happy with your setup. Ride on.

 

Dave

Posted

There is really no comparison. The HID's are real bright. I have them on my Acura TL and the high beams are not HID so when you turn on the brights you can hardly see a difference. I just ordered a HID for my RSTD. I had them on Harley and even in the day time I would be compliments on how bright they are.

 

For the price (cheap) you can't go wrong and it is a good safety enhancer as well.

 

My $.2:happy34:

Posted (edited)
There is really no comparison. The HID's are real bright. I have them on my Acura TL and the high beams are not HID so when you turn on the brights you can hardly see a difference. I just ordered a HID for my RSTD. I had them on Harley and even in the day time I would be compliments on how bright they are.

 

For the price (cheap) you can't go wrong and it is a good safety enhancer as well.

 

My $.2:happy34:

 

Cheap? for me thats a week take home better things to spent money on. west palm beach ? remember there are some of us that actually work for a living

Edited by Arcs&Sparks
added content
Posted
Maybe it was the wrong choice, but my passing lamps are also on. That could be why you see the yellow light immediately in front of the bike. I always run my passing lamps, so I wanted to give an impression of what you would see if you saw me coming. :)

 

By the way, here is the next frame of my arrival with the HID. Could explain why my baby saw spots for minutes afterward.

 

Dave

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4741916961_b528b54b1c.jpg

 

I like the Whiteness of HID and will always make HID lamps my first choice when I have to buy my next new cager. So I really like the HID and need to know where to buy and what part number am I looking into aside from H4 in mind?

 

I am also concerned with my passing lamps for it is operating on OEM bulbs. If I switch to HID headlamp, the color will no longer match with my passing lamp. If there are no direct HID replacement for my passing lamps, my next best choice will be Sylvania Ultras as soon as my lamp burns out.

Posted
Cheap? for me thats a week take home better things to spent money on. west palm beach ? remember there are some of us that actually work for a living

 

I consider $50 cheap for the Motorcycle HID performance that you get.

It was the $400+ PIAA driving lights that are not cheap.

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