Where do I start

[Trader]

OK...so I've been onboard here for a couple of months....I've had my 83 vr for about 3 days more than that.

 

It has about 85,000 KM on it

My bike is OK...but a long way from fast.

I just figured it was the way it is because it is SUPPOSED to be a couch on wheels.

 

My last bike was a 83 Yamaha 900 Seca( inline 4, shaft drive) that was MUCH quicker and the Seca had a heavy sport touring faring on it...and bags too.

 

From what I read here ...they should be pretty quick...(even though mine is not blue!)

OR IS THIS JUST B.S. "BRAVADO"....or some sort of "p*ssing match"

 

It idles smoothly, has no miss or sputters all the way thru the rpm range, don't see any smoke from the exhaust.

 

I kick it down to 3rd to pass at 90 km (55mph or so) and it doesn't really pull...more like just steady acceleration..

 

I've only had it up to about 130 km...but there is more.

 

I'd like to start giving it a complete going over....but I am on a VERY tight budget so I can't rebuild it or anything!!!

 

I'd appreciate any suggestions on where to start

 

[Squidley]

1st thing I do with any "new to me" bike is a complete tune up. Change the plugs, wires, caps, Fuel filter and air cleaner. Get a starting point or your just guessing at what it "might" be. Make sure all your carbs are operating properly, are the diamphrams in good shape. There are so many things that cause poor performance, start with the basics and we'll walk you through more advanced trobleshooting once thats done

[Rocket]

It idles smoothly, has no miss or sputters all the way thru the rpm range, don't see any smoke from the exhaust.

 

I kick it down to 3rd to pass at 90 km (55mph or so) and it doesn't really pull...more like just steady acceleration..

 

I've only had it up to about 130 km...but there is more.

 

I'd like to start giving it a complete going over....but I am on a VERY tight budget so I can't rebuild it or anything!!!

 

I'd appreciate any suggestions on where to start

 

 

These run surpisingly good on 3 cylinders, check / change the plugs especially #3 (the right rear one). Also check the carb diaphrams & carb sync. Plug wires & caps should also be checked too.

 

I have cruised in Montanna @ 110 mph previously. Also the Coquihalla Hwy in BC, loaded down with gear @ 100 mph, then looked down at the speedo, ooppppps better slow down.

 

Sometimes, I like to give the engine a good run & shift out of 1st gear at 50 mph (80 kmh), as I do a lot of short local trips around here & the engine doesn't get up to normal operating temp, before shutting it down.

[Yammer Dan]

My 750 Maxim is faster than my Venture on low end. Stoplight to stoplight that little 750 kicks A** but after that it is no contest. A 900 would probally outrun yours on low end but kicking it down to 3rd it should GO!!

Have you been able to Sea-Foam it? If money is tight Wally World has Berry Man's Chem Tech for about three bucks. Same size can as Sea-Foam. Red,Blue & white I think. Sea-Foam is pricing themselfs out of the market at about 8-9 bucks a can now but it is great stuff. I buy it by the gallon.

It doesn't sound like you are getting all that is there.

 

Berry Man's calls for 1 oz per gallon. I would dump whole can in tank. Others will comment on this.

[SilvrT]

I kick it down to 3rd to pass at 90 km (55mph or so) and it doesn't really pull...more like just steady acceleration..

 

At 90, you shouldn't need to go to 3rd to pass... it should have enuf power in 4th. In fact, you should be able to roll it on from about 80 in 5th even. That won't strain your neck but it should pick up the speed pretty good.

 

(just an fyi )

[Yammer Dan]

All good advice here. With the fuel we are forced to use now the 1st thing I jump to is dirty carbs.

[Trader]

I've done seafoam (twice) (almost $13/can at Napa!) and changed the plugs ...running stronger....but it just doesn't seem to have the power it should! Air filter looks good....haven't changed fuel filter yet but I'm sure that its not restricting fuel flow.

 

• Is there anybody in the Eastern Ontario area that could help me do my first carb sync? I don't have the tool either (hey I don't ask for much do I?) I'd happily ride a few hours to get the help to get it done (can't cross to USA...no passport yet!)
  
• I'd like to inspect the diaphrams too. Is it a straight forward "open, look, and close" (if there are no holes) or is it more complecated?
  

I guess the reality is I would probably watch someone do it for me unless they were standing over my shoulder guiding me every step of the way.

 

I used to do a bit of mechanical work 40 years ago...forgotten 99% of what little I knew and have VERY little confidence to tackle too much. But the more I do the more I'll learn....I just want to make sure I don't get myself in any trouble in the meantime and end up with a bike that runs so bad it's no fun to ride! (or not at all)

 

I"m figuring I will do wires also

• Can anybody tell me the lengths I need to make up?
  

[GigaWhiskey]

I think someone on here said they ran 11.8x in the 1/4 on theirs. So, they are not the fastest but they are not slow either.

[Yammer Dan]

I've done seafoam (twice) (almost $13/can at Napa!) and changed the plugs ...running stronger....but it just doesn't seem to have the power it should! Air filter looks good....haven't changed fuel filter yet but I'm sure that its not restricting fuel flow.

 

• Is there anybody in the Eastern Ontario area that could help me do my first carb sync? I don't have the tool either (hey I don't ask for much do I?) I'd happily ride a few hours to get the help to get it done (can't cross to USA...no passport yet!)
  
• I'd like to inspect the diaphrams too. Is it a straight forward "open, look, and close" (if there are no holes) or is it more complecated?
  

I guess the reality is I would probably watch someone do it for me unless they were standing over my shoulder guiding me every step of the way.

 

I used to do a bit of mechanical work 40 years ago...forgotten 99% of what little I knew and have VERY little confidence to tackle too much. But the more I do the more I'll learn....I just want to make sure I don't get myself in any trouble in the meantime and end up with a bike that runs so bad it's no fun to ride! (or not at all)

 

 

I"m figuring I will do wires also

• Can anybody tell me the lengths I need to make up?
  

 

 

 

They sell a set of wires on E-Bay that are cut to fit for about 35 bucks. They have the resistor caps these things need.

 

 

Pulling Diaphragms is easy. If you have a bit to fit the special screws (if they are still there) that Yamaha put in the caps. One on each cap. Knock the tit out of the middle or find bit to fit. I use a pair of small Vice grips. 4 screws to each cap. Little )-Ring seal in bottom of each cap. Don't loose it or the big spring. Pull caps pull out Diaphragms hold up to light look for holes. Line up tab to put back and you are done.

[Trader]

$35 plus about $20 in shipping...is that less than making them up?

[buddy]

Dennis Kirk has some in stock that you can make yourself

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=&catId=&productId=p2021&leafCatId=&mmyId=

 

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=&catId=&productId=p20303&leafCatId=&mmyId=

 

Give RickH a call he is a member here he may even carry what you need

[MiCarl]

In regards to your diaphragm question:

 

#1 and #3 are pretty easy to check. If you pull the side covers off they are accessible, round cap with 4 screws (of course one of them is a T27 security head:depressed:).

 

Pull the screws, remove cap and spring. Gently pull the slide and diaphragm out. Hold up to light and check the rubber for holes. When you put it back together be careful that the lip on the diaphragm ends up in the channel in the carburetor body (it'll be obvious what I'm talking about when you see it). The "ear" needs to go in the correct place too (again obvious, when you see it).

 

The other two are behind that dog leg bottom to the fairing. Good chance they look just like the first two.

[Squidley]

$35 plus about $20 in shipping...is that less than making them up?

 

 

I have bought several sets from this ebay member and he is very easy to deal with.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Venture-XVZ12-Spark-Plug-Wires-Black-XVZ1200-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ada77c640QQitemZ390212339264QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[Condor]

In regards to your diaphragm question:

 

#1 and #3 are pretty easy to check. If you pull the side covers off they are accessible, round cap with 4 screws (of course one of them is a T27 security head:depressed:).

 

Pull the screws, remove cap and spring. Gently pull the slide and diaphragm out. Hold up to light and check the rubber for holes. When you put it back together be careful that the lip on the diaphragm ends up in the channel in the carburetor body (it'll be obvious what I'm talking about when you see it). The "ear" needs to go in the correct place too (again obvious, when you see it).

 

The other two are behind that dog leg bottom to the fairing. Good chance they look just like the first two.

 

That's my thought too. Diaphragms. If they are 'holy' they won't be pulling the needle out of the jet far enough to get fuel at higher RPM's. The engine will idle and run smooth, but not have any response when rolling on the throttle....

[CdnDave77]

... but I'd be more than welcome to give you a hand. It would be a long-ish ride to get to my place, but I will likely be taking my bike to my inlaws' by Peterborough at the end of the month. Would that be within your range ? I can easily bring the synch tool and my specialty bit for the carb screws.

 

I do have a homeade synch tool, and all the parts (vac guage, manifold, valves, hose, etc) can be purchased at Princess Auto for less than $25... works like a charm. There was a great thread on this a couple of years ago but I can't locate it right now.

 

I used to ride a 750 Maxim as well, and my Venture will match it performance-wise once you are moving without question. I can't believe this bike weighs twice as much.

 

I would really take a look at your plugs : are they all a nice even tan, or are some dark or too light ? Either way, it points to carbs... and/or air leaking in if you are too lean, which can rob your pick-up at a certain point.

 

Feel free to PM if you are interested in hooking up somehow or just to walk through the synch procedure and where to go from there.

[1BigDog]

If I remember from when I had my 83 dinosoar the diaphragms from the 83-85 were thin material and the replacement diaphragms were made from thicker stuff. Mine ran like garbage until I replaced the diaphragms. Look for bent/damaged needles and see if the plastic tube/slider is heavily scored. Fuel filter is a bear to replace. Its under the tank. I rerouted the filter to come out under the left side of the frame by the swingarm. Made future filter swaps much easier.

[Trader]

the diaphragms from the 83-85 were thin material and the replacement diaphragms were made from thicker stuff. Mine ran like garbage until I replaced the diaphragms.

 

 

so are you saying the the thicker ones were OK or that you had to replace the thicker ones (with presumably thinner ones) a 2nd time?

[1BigDog]

Im saying the original thin diaphragms found on the 83-85 models were no good. The replacement ones, which were thicker, were better. I believe that the thicker ones also required that a different spring be used as well. Keep in mind that when I refer to them as thicker, what im saying is the newer diaphrams are made slightly heavier to keep them from tearing. Im not saying that your are bad and since your bike is alrealy 27 years old its possible that those original diaphragms were already replaced at some point. Just giving you something to look at though.

[GigaWhiskey]

WooHoo, if what you say is correct, I did it right the first time and didn't even know it. Got the new ones from yammy with new springs way back when.

[Trader]

Just wanted to let EVERYONE know that thanks to CdnDave77 :clap2:I did my very first carb sync.

He sent me these pictures of a home made sync tool ...along with a materials list and detailed instructions on the procedure. I liked this tool because there was no worry of sucking anything into the cylinders.

 

I might add.....This site is GREAT!

Even an "all thumbs",mechanically challanged person suffering from a long term loss of short term memory can do stuff!

 

Now if I could just remember where I put the key for the scoot I'd be all set!