#3 pulls too much vacuum

[GigaWhiskey]

When #3 pulls so much vacuum that it pulls the fluid to the top, will A, B or C screw help get it to stop? Yanno, so I can start syncing them.

 

I am trying to sync my carbs and I know they are way out of sync, I sure see why the dial gauges would be a better choice over fluid ones in this situation.

[Snaggletooth]

Been a while since I looked at the manual on this but if I remember right (A) does #1 & #2. (B) does #3 & #4 and © balances the #1/#2 set against the #3/#4 set.

 

So the (B) screw should be the one to bring #3 down to match #4.

[GigaWhiskey]

Yup, B made the difference. I turned a few times past the resistance of the spring resistance on A, B and C, figuring I was in the ballpark. Then 1 & 3 starting to shoot up when the rpms went below 1k. Turned on B a few more times then all four were steady and holding but not even across.

 

She is a bit hot now, need to let her cool a bit. So, now I have 2, 3 and 4 mostly even on the gauge and 1 is playing with me a bit - has me running from one side of the bike to the other with a tweak here and a tweak there.

 

Throttle response is beginning to feel wads smoother.

[Snaggletooth]

In my early days of learning the fine art of syncing carbs I found myself wondering a couple of times....."HEY! Where did the mercury go?"

 

I had people bring me bikes that were so far off one carb would suck the stick dry the second you hooked it up. I learned to slide the hose on slow and watch the stick to make sure it didn't do that anymore.

 

As far a gauges.......great to have IF you want to spend the bucks on quality, oil filled ones that you can have calibrated. I built a bar back in '74 with two, added two more in '76 for the GL 1100 and then two more in '80 so I could do the CBX. And then the GW was a money maker. Don't ask what I had in that bar. Even back then. I think I was paying about $75.00 a crack to have all of gauges calibrated together.

 

Wish I still had the dang thing today. I have a Carbtune now but I still break out the sticks to double check the end results.

 

But glad you got it down to a workable level. Have fun when you get them lined up. It makes a heck of a difference.

 

Mike

[Snaggletooth]

Oh yeah......remember that #2 is fixed.....non adjustable. So all you are doing is matching #1 to it. A bit dicey at times so a few minor tweaks back and forth between sides will need to be done along with readjustments to the idle during the process.

 

Now try this to if you want. Once you get them set at 1,000 rpm take the revs up to 3,000 and check the levels again. See if there are any major changes. I dial mine in at 3,000. I figure I'm not running down the road at 1,000 rpm.

[GigaWhiskey]

I am sitting down on my patio having my victory cig. Well, that is what I am calling it.

 

I have em synced, close enough anyway. Went for a short ride. She ran smooth and like a stripped azzed ape to about 6k. Not spitting or backfiring.

 

:big-grin-emoticon:

 

The gauges looked about the same at about 3k, even-wise.

 

Put some gas in the tank and the gas gauge looks good - victory #2

 

Speedometer works and without a squeal - victory #3

 

Headlight is much brighter now with that SilverStar - victory #4

 

All of the dash works - a combined victory.

 

 

If you remember I had it apart for a lot of things and only one thing left to do - fix that main fuse. I picked up a atc fuse thing to take the place of the bad main fuse holder. That upgrade kit was a complete waste of money to me.