Midicat Posted June 12, 2010 #1 Posted June 12, 2010 Hi folks! I recently (one year ago) added driving lamps to my 85 VR and I have had issues with the driving lamps taking alot of power to run. So much in fact, that when I'm running at approx 3500 - 4000 rpm the charging system can hold it fine but if I drop into city driving speeds, the draw becomes troublesome. After some city driving with the lamps on, my radio will drop in volume in relation to my turn signal. Blink on, lower volume, blink off, higher volume. (kind of funny now that I'm typing this). I have the positive running direct to the battery and my question is "Is there a better way to do this so the draw isn't quite so high?" The lamps 2 x 35w halogen. Stator is new in 2006. Any suggestions will be happily considered. Thomas
MiCarl Posted June 12, 2010 #2 Posted June 12, 2010 Direct connect to the battery is the proper hookup. I run a pair of 55w lights and electric anti-dives on my 89 without that problem. I think you need to dig deeper.
MasterGuns Posted June 12, 2010 #3 Posted June 12, 2010 I have the same 35W bulbs in the driving lights I've installed on an 86 and don't have the problem you are discussing. I also have them wired the same. Not sure where and what kind of switch you used; perhaps that's your problem. Do any of the wires feel unusually warm if just idling in place? Check the battery voltage with a good voltmeter at different rpms with the dl's on and off. Post the readings here to see what other folks my have to say about those readings. Just some ideas. Good luck.
Rocket Posted June 12, 2010 #4 Posted June 12, 2010 Hi folks! if I drop into city driving speeds, the draw becomes troublesome. After some city driving with the lamps on, my radio will drop in volume in relation to my turn signal. Blink on, lower volume, blink off, higher volume. (kind of funny now that I'm typing this). I have the positive running direct to the battery and my question is "Is there a better way to do this so the draw isn't quite so high?" The lamps 2 x 35w halogen. Stator is new in 2006. Any suggestions will be happily considered. Thomas Make sure it is fused, for the battery hookup & I power the switch side of the relay. thru the acc circuit. I do this so they can't be accidentally be left on, killing the battery. I use mine, for Hwy use only.......
friesman Posted June 12, 2010 #5 Posted June 12, 2010 Make sure it is fused, for the battery hookup & I power the switch side of the relay. thru the acc circuit. I do this so they can't be accidentally be left on, killing the battery. I use mine, for Hwy use only....... Rocket hooked mine up on my 85 a couple of years ago, and I am running 55 watt bulbs and have never had an issue. But in town, I do only run them at dusk and try to keep my revs above 3000, and according to my dash meter, I am still charging at about 13-14 volts On the highway i run the driving lights all the time just to be seen, they are an offbeat yellow colour that will be noticed. brian
jasonm. Posted June 12, 2010 #6 Posted June 12, 2010 (edited) Rocket hooked mine up on my 85 a couple of years ago, and I am running 55 watt bulbs and have never had an issue. But in town, I do only run them at dusk and try to keep my revs above 3000, and according to my dash meter, I am still charging at about 13-14 volts On the highway i run the driving lights all the time just to be seen, they are an offbeat yellow colour that will be noticed. brian Are you sure you have 35w bulbs? Like others...I do not run my 55w pair unless it's night time and I know the revs will be above 3000. This is quite normal. Even 2 x 35w is more than 5 amp draw. These bikes only have about 10amps to spare at revs above 3000. "Electricity supply on these is not endless". Also, what do mean by wiring it better. You should be using a RELAY and extra fuses. I have 5 relays on my bike for accessories. Do you know how to wire a relay? ANd how old is your battery. Is it a higher quality battery...Sealed or AGM type I think they call it. I have a 10 year old sealed. Still stronger than a 3 year old WalMart. Edited June 12, 2010 by jasonm.
Midicat Posted June 12, 2010 Author #7 Posted June 12, 2010 ...Also, what do mean by wiring it better. You should be using a RELAY and extra fuses. I have 5 relays on my bike for accessories. Do you know how to wire a relay? That's what I was just now, starting to wonder. I have no relay. Didn't come with one. I have in-line fuse and red power line direct to 2yr old sealed battery post. I don't know how to wire a relay. What should I buy and how should it be done? Thomas
Condor Posted June 12, 2010 #8 Posted June 12, 2010 What battery are you using? If it's an OEM or wet cell type, the battery does not have enough cc amps to supply the load required by the driving lights while running around town at lower RPM's. The stator will not put out until over 3000rpm. Try an AGM Deka and that should take care of the problem.
jasonm. Posted June 12, 2010 #9 Posted June 12, 2010 Sounds like you have it wired the simplest way. Which does give the least resistance to electrical flow. BUT should accidently leave the switch on when the bike is parked...you will have a dead battery. This is where a relay comes in to use. All relays come w/wiring diagram. 2 posts are the coil posts(plus and neg. 12volts) that energize a magnetic coil. The other 2 posts are for your +12 in and out load. It's the coil that you only want power available when the bike is ON or in ACCES position. Most wire to the access screws on the fuse block. Now you need to decide where to place the on off switch? I recommend between the access +12 and the coil +. This way the switch is not getting jolted by a high draw every time you "flip the switch". Thus lasting a long time.NOW DO A TEST . Turn the ignition on...do you hear the relay click when you flip the switch you wired? If no..did you remember the ground(neative) side of the coil? If yes, then you are almost done You then connect the "lights" to the relay contacts or called +12 load out from battery. AND connect a +12 to the other side of the relay contacts to the battery positive. NOTE: there really is no in and out just the HI AMPs switched contact. Just think of electrical as water thru a pipe.
dingy Posted June 12, 2010 #10 Posted June 12, 2010 That's what I was just now, starting to wonder. I have no relay. Didn't come with one. I have in-line fuse and red power line direct to 2yr old sealed battery post. I don't know how to wire a relay. What should I buy and how should it be done? Thomas If you want some more detailed info on installing a relay look at thread below. There is a detailed PDF file attached to the first post that will guide you through it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43150&highlight=relay Gary
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