Handling on my Venture

[hig4s]

Ya'll are so far over my head that I feel like the oil well in the gulf. :rotfl:

 

Not really sure what they are saying either, but I have read that if you have bad or loose steering bearings the front end will wobble. But they have to be pretty bad for it to wobble while you are holding the bars. Occasionally I will be riding along with the cruise on, and will make my hand very light on the bars, maybe even hover them off the grips a bit. I figure if the bars don't try to wobble the bearings must be OK.

[Squeeze]

So what's the best way to relieve the race or bearing seat?? Lathe??? I've never been in this area so don't have a clue....

 

Using a Dremel on the Seat is the easiest Way.

 

I've learned all this from a well known Suspension Specialist in my local Area. He modifies the outer Bearing Races by grinding them a Tad down on the Circular Grinder and he's using a patented upper Bearing with a double Height Nut pressed on to the inner Race, hereby taking out the Slack between the two Nuts. Of Course the Price equals the world wide Patent .... A Set is 120 Euros or so.

 

But it's not necessary, opening the Seat does work just as good and when you get the Steel Replacement Washer from Skydoc_17, which comes in Place of the stock rubber POS, you're set.

[Condor]

Using a Dremel on the Seat is the easiest Way.

 

I've learned all this from a well known Suspension Specialist in my local Area. He modifies the outer Bearing Races by grinding them a Tad down on the Circular Grinder and he's using a patented upper Bearing with a double Height Nut pressed on to the inner Race, hereby taking out the Slack between the two Nuts. Of Course the Price equals the world wide Patent .... A Set is 120 Euros or so.

 

But it's not necessary, opening the Seat does work just as good and when you get the Steel Replacement Washer from Skydoc_17, which comes in Place of the stock rubber POS, you're set.

 

Thanks for the lesson in neck bearings Squeeze. I did pick up a few of those washers from Earl, and have Dremmel in hand, so that's taken care of. Once I get into checking to make absolutely sure it's the bearings I'll feel a lot more informed if it is.

[kj5ix]

Using a Dremel on the Seat is the easiest Way.

 

I've learned all this from a well known Suspension Specialist in my local Area. He modifies the outer Bearing Races by grinding them a Tad down on the Circular Grinder and he's using a patented upper Bearing with a double Height Nut pressed on to the inner Race, hereby taking out the Slack between the two Nuts. Of Course the Price equals the world wide Patent .... A Set is 120 Euros or so.

 

But it's not necessary, opening the Seat does work just as good and when you get the Steel Replacement Washer from Skydoc_17, which comes in Place of the stock rubber POS, you're set.

 

I'm not lost (yet) hanging right in there with ya, but I don't understand, or know about this steel washer your talking about. I have replacer a few trees, and going to be doing mine here shortly.. I haven't noticed any of the tightness in one spot,, The theory is good, and I understand it. I have spent more than enough time trying to get seats to seat, and with every thing under the sun from freezing them to pressed. I have a bearing/race seating tool set now that makes it easer, but you just HAVE to get it started perfect or it becomes a real chore.

When you take a tad off the race, I am assuming that your talking about an RCH Tad and checking fit . Not just getting after it....... The fit: Is it Drop in snug,,or tap in tight,,

[Squeeze]

The Races should be a drop in fit. Nothing should apply Pressure on the Diameter. Both Races should be glued in the Seat, using Loctite 648 at a Cure Time of 2 Hours minimum. I allways time the Job this Way to let them cure over Night.I uses two thick Aluminium Washers and a long and Thick Bolt to hold the Races in Place during cure Time. I also used the Tripple Tree with the old Bearings still mounted in the Past, works just as fine for a Jig.

[rumboogy]

OK...I was just talking to a buddy of mine that also has a Venture (in fact, he has 2 Ventures, one is his, one is his wifes...both of them are 2009).

 

This guy has rode a long time...and just about the time I think I have my handling issues worked he...he throws a WRENCH into it.

 

Here are my present settings:

 

Front Fork: 0

Rear Shock: 25

Front Tire: 40

Rear Tire: 42

 

And here are his settings on his BIKES:

 

His Bike Her Bike (lowered)

Front Fork: 10 10

Rear Shock: 50 80

Front Tire: 35 35

Rear Tire: 35 35

 

He says the dealer here fills all the tires with nitrogen and on hot days the tire temps are 15-20 degrees cooler with nitrogen than with air...and he prefers the tires to be hotter (air filled) so that they stick better.

 

I know this HORSE IS BEAT TO DEATH...but what are some of your thoughts on those settings. Just trying to get informed.

 

Wally

[Guest tx2sturgis]

MY preferred settings:

 

Front Fork: 0 psi

Rear Shock: 10 psi solo...15-20 when 2-up.

Front tire: 36

Rear tire: 44

 

Always check the tires when cold.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

And here are his settings on his BIKES:

 

His Bike Her Bike (lowered)

Front Fork: 10 10

Rear Shock: 50 80

Front Tire: 35 35

Rear Tire: 35 35

 

The settings I highlighted in red are way outside the settings called for in the owners manual.

[Condor]

Just a thought on the Nitrogen fill. All tires are recomended to be filled when cold, and I would think expansion due to heat is factored into the end pressure. Now if Nitrogen runs 10-15 degs cooler, and the tire's pressure is set a little low, wouldn't that be considered softer in the whole scheme of things due to expansion not being as much as one would get with regular air, aka Boyle's Law?? I know it's probably splitting hairs, but it's a thought.

[rumboogy]

I hear ya. This guy has been riding all his life...and he can fix about anything...great guy to be around and to have on trips...

 

But those settings really rattled me...they seemed WAY outta line to me too.

 

Thanks for answering. Think I'll stay right where I am at...

 

Wally

[SilvrT]

Wally.... my 0.05 cents... if you're happy with the way the scoot handles where you're at, then stay there. Nobody I know of puts 10lbs in the front shock or 50lbs in the rear... but then again, I don't know everyone.

[Bummer]

7.1 psi is the max front. 57 psi is the max rear. Anything higher risks blown seals. (No, no, it's just cake and icecream.)

 

I run 5 front and around 50 rear most of the time.

 

I found that with 0 in the front the shocks tended to bottom under hard braking. Since I never know when someone is going to do something deranged, I toughened up the fronts, and keep them there all the time.

 

For the rear I usually suggest that people add up the total weight on the bike and then lop off the right number. For me that comes out to 20 to 25 solo, 50 to 55 two up. When I get home from a two up ride I usually forget to let any air out, so I wind up riding at the higher pressure in the rear. I don't mind, since I think the firmer ride handles better.

 

If you're happy with 0 and 25, stick with it, though it might not hurt to try it a bit higher if for no other reason than to see what the options are. Who knows, you might find you like 5 and 50.

 

And if you do add air to the fronts a Progressive crossover comes in real handy for balancing pressure.

[Traveller]

Just put on Avons after removing the Dunlops which had excellent tread left.When I bought the Venture it had 404's on it and I replaced them with 404's. I've had the bike 5 years. I also wasn't happy with the handling especially low speed U's etc. Now since riding on Avons I wish I'd taken the 404's off the first day I bought the bike. Nimbler,quicker handling at hwy speeds and in low speed. I run 41 front psi and 46 rear psi, 0 front shock 27.5 rear which is also ok for two up. On the 404's I ran 40 front,42 rear. Avons also gave me 2mpg more from 44.5 to 46.8. I went with stock sizes not the narrower front tire. Something to think about next tire time.