rumboogy Posted June 11, 2010 Share #1 Posted June 11, 2010 OK...don't hate on me...this will be a VAGUE comment/question/thoughts about the handling of my bike. I still have the stock tires on my bike. I have risers installed. My tires are inflated (both front and back) at 35 PSI. I know that is low for those tires (I think I have my log book stating the front should be 38 and the back 40). Anyway (and here's the vague part)...lately it "feels" like the front end of the bike is "loose" or sometimes it feels like the back is squirrely...other times the bike rides so smooth and stable. And I don't think it is the road...I am pretty sure it is either the BIKE or my IMAGINATION....but it's enough that it rattles me a little. So my question...would another 3-5lbs of air in each tire make that much difference? The bike is only 6 months old...could it be the steering bearings? Any ideas anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GigaWhiskey Posted June 11, 2010 Share #2 Posted June 11, 2010 Are the tires brickstones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rumboogy Posted June 11, 2010 Author Share #3 Posted June 11, 2010 dunlops 404 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted June 11, 2010 Share #4 Posted June 11, 2010 Put 42-44 in rear and 40 in front and then report back... also run zero air in front shocks and about 35lbs in rear... make sure you use a proper air pump for the shocks...not a regular air hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rumboogy Posted June 11, 2010 Author Share #5 Posted June 11, 2010 Thanks, I have the progressive pump...so the air is not a problem. I will try that this weekend and report. I am running 4lbs in the front right now and I think 25lbs in the rear shocks. I'll change and see what happens. Thanks, Wally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted June 11, 2010 Share #6 Posted June 11, 2010 Thanks, I have the progressive pump...so the air is not a problem. I will try that this weekend and report. I am running 4lbs in the front right now and I think 25lbs in the rear shocks. I'll change and see what happens. Thanks, Wally Changing the air in the rear shock probably won't make a difference unless you're carrying a passenger. Might not change things much either by changing the front shock air but for sure the tires. Also, make sure your air gauge that you use on the tires is accutate... you could use the progressive pump (if it's a 0-60) to test the tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mariner Fan Posted June 11, 2010 Share #7 Posted June 11, 2010 OK...don't hate on me...this will be a VAGUE comment/question/thoughts about the handling of my bike. I still have the stock tires on my bike. I have risers installed. My tires are inflated (both front and back) at 35 PSI. I know that is low for those tires (I think I have my log book stating the front should be 38 and the back 40). Anyway (and here's the vague part)...lately it "feels" like the front end of the bike is "loose" or sometimes it feels like the back is squirrely...other times the bike rides so smooth and stable. And I don't think it is the road...I am pretty sure it is either the BIKE or my IMAGINATION....but it's enough that it rattles me a little. So my question...would another 3-5lbs of air in each tire make that much difference? The bike is only 6 months old...could it be the steering bearings? Any ideas anyone? Anything can make a bike get squirlley. Road snakes, wet roads, etc. and wind will really move a bike with a fairing around. One more thing; I noticed this alot when the bike was new and I was getting used to it. Now I don't give it a second thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brake Pad Posted June 12, 2010 Share #8 Posted June 12, 2010 I played with the tires, brakes, air pressures, front bearings, hub, come to find out the rear shock, is leaking. at about 70 MHP. the bike gets lose. I put 5 pounds on the front shocks and 35 on the rear. But the bike shop is replacing the rear shock under warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted June 12, 2010 Share #9 Posted June 12, 2010 I would also check your bearings on the triple tree to make sure they did not loosen up a tad. Dingy makes a nifty wrench for adjusting them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naked Rider Posted June 12, 2010 Share #10 Posted June 12, 2010 how many miles do you have on those tires? new tires on a bike are a little bit slick till you get them broke in a little. just my Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterbug Posted June 12, 2010 Share #11 Posted June 12, 2010 I had the 404 on mine and still do on the front, my dealer told me to make sure I kept 40 lbs in both. I didnt on the back for a while and it cupped on me. I have the E3 on the back now and its a totally diffrent bike with the way it rides now. I did notice that the 404s ride funny when I got around 9K on them so it might be you need to switch. I am going to put radials on it next change and see how the E3s are with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hillrider Posted June 12, 2010 Share #12 Posted June 12, 2010 From my experience. Run max sidewall pressure in the tires. These are HEAVY bikes. In my case the triple tree was too tight. Loosened it 1/4 turn. Now the bike handles nearly as well as my weestrom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidlifeVenture Posted June 12, 2010 Share #13 Posted June 12, 2010 I know the feeling almost like hitting a tar snake in a corner but there are none I felt this when I got the bike but now I don't think I feel it any more . Love the advice keep it coming:thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ablumny Posted June 12, 2010 Share #14 Posted June 12, 2010 This thread and the described problem got me thinking about my handling complaints that I never did anything about. SO, I jack the bike and sure as sure the handlebars swing left to right like they are riding on slick 50. I get in there with a screwdriver and am able to tighten the steering bearing nut a bit more then 1/4 turn. On to the air in the shocks. I happen to have an air shock pump but never used it, never checked the air pressure in my shocks. measured 0 in the rear and 5 in the front. Bumped the rear to 30 and took the front to 0. then bumped tire pressure up to the advised 40 front, 42 rear. BIG difference for sure. Im guessing going from 0 to 30# in the rear shock is sort of like adding the leveling links? The handling is so different. Thanks for the great advice! ( I need a "maintenance day" on long island ! ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rumboogy Posted June 12, 2010 Author Share #15 Posted June 12, 2010 OK...I took the bike out today for a little spin (not far though...maybe 15 miles)...anyway here is what I did... I reduced the front forks from 5lbs to 0. I increased the rear shock up to 25lbs. I set my front tire (Dunlop 404) to 40lbs. I set my rear tire (Dunlop 404) to 42lbs. I can tell a definite difference! A longer ride would have been nicer...but for now I am happy. We'll see what happens after riding for 3000 miles (next week). The ONLY thing I haven't messed with is the steering bearings. I will wait on those. I do have a question about the bearings though...if replaced are there like a "premium" set of bearings that is better than the STOCK BEARINGS? Wally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted June 12, 2010 Share #16 Posted June 12, 2010 As long as this thread is on handling I tought I'd pop a question. On the '83 when doing a scrub... that back and forth lean when first starting out on a ride.... it was smooth from side to side. I also like to do this on any strange bike to get a clue of what's going to happen when I need to lean a lot. On the new2me '99 when doing the scrub it feels like I'm going over a hump or resistence when the bike hits upright, and before it falls off into a lean. New E3's. Haven't got a clue on the tire pressure... to lazy to check yet. Just thought I'd ask and see if it's normal or ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted June 12, 2010 Share #17 Posted June 12, 2010 Condor, that sounds pretty much like you'll in for new Steering Head Bearings. Industry Type is 32005X/Q and 32006X/Q. Not a funny Job, but well worth the Effort. Watch teh Seal on the lower Bearing while you pulling it off. You can improve the Handling tremendously if you decide to grind the Bearing Seat a little bit bigger, so much that the outer Races just fall in Place and glue them in Place with Loctite 648. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanderer Posted June 12, 2010 Share #18 Posted June 12, 2010 You know I only have 14000 on my bike but I'm thinking the steering head has really loosened up. I guess that's something we can check out at Don's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeperhawk Posted June 12, 2010 Share #19 Posted June 12, 2010 You know I only have 14000 on my bike but I'm thinking the steering head has really loosened up. I guess that's something we can check out at Don's. It's that goofy CT you have on that dirty bike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Posted June 12, 2010 Share #20 Posted June 12, 2010 Put 42-44 in rear and 40 in front and then report back... also run zero air in front shocks and about 35lbs in rear... Would you recommend the same for a 1st gen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted June 12, 2010 Share #21 Posted June 12, 2010 Condor, that sounds pretty much like you'll in for new Steering Head Bearings. Industry Type is 32005X/Q and 32006X/Q. Not a funny Job, but well worth the Effort. Watch teh Seal on the lower Bearing while you pulling it off. You can improve the Handling tremendously if you decide to grind the Bearing Seat a little bit bigger, so much that the outer Races just fall in Place and glue them in Place with Loctite 648. That's an idea Squeeze. If I remember correctly their was some discussion on this board a few years back about some 2ndGen's having a problem with the steering head adjustment. Where the steering head could be tightened, and then it would loosen again very quickly. Turned out to be.... I think.... the neck weld not holding, or something alone that line???. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted June 12, 2010 Share #22 Posted June 12, 2010 Yes, i've brought this up two or three Times in the Past. The Problem on all Steering Heads is, the Seats are manufactured before they're welded to the Frame. The Welding Process causes the Seats to take a unround Shape. This goes for Steel Frames as well as Aluminium from all Manufacturers all over the World. If you force a outer Race into that Seat, the Race will take the same oval Shape as the Seat is. This causes the Problem while adjusting the Bearing Slack on tapered Roller Bearings like we use in our Ride. On one Point the Bearing is almost too tight and when you tighten the Nut just a tad more, the Bearing will feel loose again. There's not a definite Spot to find because if a Roller is resting on a high Spot it will feel tight, if you turn the Steering the Roller walks away from the High Spot and probaly end up "in the Air" and another Roller takes on a "high Spot". If you make enough Room inside the Bearing Seat to not Force the Race in the existing oval Shape, the Race will stay in perfect round Profile and this will give you a much more defined Adjustment. You tighten the Steering and it will stay at your adjusted Point, because all the Rollers have the same Contact with the outer Race. This Problem causes a Lot of Grief on the 1Gen Maxxes on high Speeds. They start to wobble, caused by one or the other Reason, but the Steering Head being tight on one Point and loose on another escalates the Wobble, some Times to a Point of no Return. The Bearings on the 1Gen Vmax and all Ventures '82 to 2010 are all the same, so is the Problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted June 13, 2010 Share #23 Posted June 13, 2010 Yes, i've brought this up two or three Times in the Past. The Problem on all Steering Heads is, the Seats are manufactured before they're welded to the Frame. The Welding Process causes the Seats to take a unround Shape. This goes for Steel Frames as well as Aluminium from all Manufacturers all over the World. If you make enough Room inside the Bearing Seat to not Force the Race in the existing oval Shape, the Race will stay in perfect round Profile and this will give you a much more defined Adjustment. You tighten the Steering and it will stay at your adjusted Point, because all the Rollers have the same Contact with the outer Race. The Bearings on the 1Gen Vmax and all Ventures '82 to 2010 are all the same, so is the Problem. So what's the best way to relieve the race or bearing seat?? Lathe??? I've never been in this area so don't have a clue.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rumboogy Posted June 13, 2010 Author Share #24 Posted June 13, 2010 Ya'll are so far over my head that I feel like the oil well in the gulf. :rotfl: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted June 13, 2010 Share #25 Posted June 13, 2010 Would you recommend the same for a 1st gen? The shock air setting for the first gen is different. When I had mine, I ran the shocks at max using the on-board system. As for the tires I think I ran them about the same as I reported above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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