elmicko Posted June 10, 2010 #1 Posted June 10, 2010 OK, I'm tired of boogering up the heads of the master cylinder screws every time I need to add brake fluid to my bike. Does anybody know where I can order that size screw in hardened stainless or an allen head???
Squeeze Posted June 10, 2010 #2 Posted June 10, 2010 I think those are M4 Bolts, 6 or 8 mm long. But don't tear my Head off if these are not exactly the right Lenght.
Snaggletooth Posted June 10, 2010 #3 Posted June 10, 2010 Check your local hardware store. I found two stores around here that stocked them. SS is a little harder fo find but they are available. I tried the hardened black with the allen head but they rust very quickly and the allen size is very small. If you go that route be sure to use anti-seize on them. I've seen several bikes that used a standard chrome or SS allen head bolt with a chrome or SS washer under the head. They used a small but thick 0-ring under that for fill the countersink recess in the top of the cover. Looked like that worked pretty well also and looked fine.
dthomso1 Posted June 10, 2010 #4 Posted June 10, 2010 I found mine at Home Depot in their SS cabinet. They are M4. I used the 8mm length. The only downside is that they are slot head screws which in my view are not the best looking. Cheers
Condor Posted June 10, 2010 #5 Posted June 10, 2010 (edited) OK, I'm tired of boogering up the heads of the master cylinder screws every time I need to add brake fluid to my bike. Does anybody know where I can order that size screw in hardened stainless or an allen head??? I just took one of the OEMs and matched it up in stainless at ACE Hardware... Edit: And the ones I found were phillips. 'Bout $.40 cents each... Edited June 10, 2010 by Condor
skydoc_17 Posted June 10, 2010 #6 Posted June 10, 2010 Hi Guys, Jean Here, Earl has taken Stainless Steel M4 Cap Screws and machined the fluting off and polished them to a mirror finish. (See pics Below) $12.00 gets you 4 screws and the shipping. I hope this is what you are talking about, Jean
GaryZ Posted June 10, 2010 #7 Posted June 10, 2010 I just took one of the OEMs and matched it up in stainless at ACE Hardware... +1 Ace Hardware has a bunch of stainless nuts, bolts, screws, and washers in metric.
jasonm. Posted June 10, 2010 #8 Posted June 10, 2010 I changed those bastard screws on all them reservoirs. I have a True Value hardware. He has SS in all the small and medium size metrics. His prices are steep. But he always has what I need. Phillips, allen or chrome.
6m459 Posted June 12, 2010 #9 Posted June 12, 2010 Hi, FWIW, when I got my red bike, I couldn't budge these screws on one of its reservoirs. Before I damaged the heads too much, I went out and bought one of those pin point hand held butane torches and heated the heads of the screws for 10 to 20 seconds or so. This helped shift them in no time as the steel of the screws expands at a different rate than the alu, which breaks the bond between them. Or so I understand. I found that my local Canadian Tire store had some very nice oval head phillips screws of the right thread that worked nicely and looked good. Before I installed these, I ran the correct tap down the holes of the res to clear out any corrosion and crappy age related deposits. I then used some silicone grease in the threads as an anti sieze. All seems good now and they looked so good that both bikes got a set. http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad39/UxHamby/vehicles/bike3/92b2996e.jpg http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad39/UxHamby/vehicles/bike3/aee35283.jpg Hope this is helpful. Brian H. PS BTW, I have to say that although the small butane torch worked well at first, it soon after stopped working and I certainly wouldn't buy that brand again. PPS I am glad to hear that metric screws are so easily obtained in the USA, I would have guessed that they would have been much harder to find down there. Good on ya, as the Aussies say.
bongobobny Posted June 12, 2010 #10 Posted June 12, 2010 There is a trick to getting them out easily. First insert your #2 phillips screwdriver in the screw, and then take a hammer and give the end of the screwdriver a reasonable wack to drive the head in securely and to impact the threads. while pushing down on the screwdriver twist as well. Should come out fairly easily...
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