Retro Tachometer - A different approach

[phertwo]

Hi everyone!

 

So I figured that I wanted to make my first post a good one, so here it is. Pics at the bottom.

 

I had been looking into my options for a tachometer for quite sometime and was rather unimpressed with the steep price tag and the style of the available motorcycle tach's. So I did some internet hunting and found a company based out of Michigan that makes Retro style tachometers for classic and muscle cars. You can find them at Classic Instruments. I thought to myself, oh now wouldn't that look good on my RSTD. Before I knew it, I was whipping out my cards to make a purchase online.

 

With a lots of humming and hawing about which model to get, I ended up getting the All American Nickel 3-3/8" Tachometer and the chrome cup insert. Total $198US. Took about 4 days to ship to Canada! Not bad eh~!

 

http://www.classicinstruments.com/images/products/AN80SHC.JPGhttp://www.classicinstruments.com/images/Tach%20Cup.jpg

Once I received my new purchase I went to work right away. However, I had to really think about where to mount it, how to mount it and how to get it to work. So in case if anyone is wondering, read on.

 

First off, where to mount it. I have a Uniq Cycle Classic speakers system (long story, I have the system but I currently waiting for a replacement amp because the first one was faulty. Not happy with those guys.) that will occupy the left and right portions of the handle bar, so that was a no-go. I decided to mount it dead-center about the speedometer display because that would give me enough space to not interfere with the windshield.

 

Second, how to mount it. I was stumped for a while on this one. One of the problems was the chrome cup insert was far too long. If I were to mount it, the tach would stick way out over the front of the speedometer unit. I noticed that the tach itself was quite a bit shorter than the cup, so I decided to cut the cup insert down. I cut about an inch or so from the opening. I also cut down the screws (the ones that you bolt on the wiring to) on the back of the tachometer to shorten it down some more. After the trimming work I had reduced the length on the tach enough for the front of the gauge to sit flush with the speedometer unit.

 

I spent a good amount of time trying to figure out a way of fixing the tach to the top of my speedometer without having to drill holes or welding to the pretty speedo casing. So I took an old stainless steel stirring ladle from the kitchen and went to work bending it into shape. I apologize for not taking step-by-step photos of the process, I was just... lets say... in the groove. I ended up bending the ladle with a slight arc, following the curve of the speedo casing, and a sharp 'S' shaped bend at the end. I drilled a hole in at the end of the 'S' shape and easily mounted it to the one screw that holds the speedo casing in the front (if you stand right in front of your bike and look at the speedo casing, you will see the bolt). The ladle works perfectly because it has a slight curve to it already and it follows the curve on the speedo casing.

 

I then took the cup insert and the ladle and welded them together. I would assume that you could use some kind of adhesive or jb-weld. But since I have a MIG that I am always trying to find uses to justify its purchase, it was quick work .

 

It was a simple one bolt job from there to permanently but non-destructively fix the tach to my bike.

 

Third, the wiring. Not fun trying to figure this one out on your own. I will just write down what was the winning combination. Then tachometer has a 4 position selection screw on the back for calibrating. 4 cylinder, 6 cylinder, 8 cylinder, 12PALT. Sorry V-Twin friends, this mod is only for us!. I basically ran a wire from the 'signal' terminal on the back of the tach to the ignition wiring. It runs with many of the wires that are located above the ignition coils. The one you want is the only wiring harness that is made up of just two wires, white and black. I hooked up the signal wire to the white wire, set the tach calibration to 12PALT and SUCCESS! For me, the 12PALT setting works. It does act a little funny at about 4000 rpm while accelerating, where the needle with suddenly retreat slightly and the advance forward.

 

Now I know there are other ways to set up the tachometer. Classic instruments sells a multiple ignition coil adapter gadget, or there is this one that you can build yourself. I'm going to live with my setup because its totally livable in my books.

 

I also wanted to have a nice clean look for the tachometer wiring, and didn't want any ugly wiring exposed. I tried to look for some nice 'chrome' plastic wire covering but couldn't find any. So I ended up going to the plumbing section at the local Canadian Tire and buying a 20" braided steel flexible hose. I cut off each of the screw ends and slipped the wiring through it (I bought a pack of trailer automotive wire while I was at crappy tire for the tach wiring). I slipped one end of the steel hose through the rubber grommet that is supplied with the tachometer and the other end of steel hose around the speedo unit and into the steering cover. From there you just wire up the tach + and - terminals to the auxiliary wiring harness that is located under the seat. I also jumped a wire from the + terminal to the 'light' terminal on the tach, which keeps the tach light on all the time. I will try to take some night-time pictures.

 

From there I just bought a small tube of silicone caulking/adhesive and put it around the rubber grommet, braided steel hose, tachometer and cup, and between the bottom of the cup insert and the speedometer casing. The last one is important, it prevents the tach cup assembly from scratching the speedo casing, and it eliminates and noise from vibration.

 

The tachometer unit does not interfere with the windshield in any way so it can be used with or without it. One thing that I did notice that when I went for a ride on a hot day, I got a bit of condensation on the inside of the gauge glass. I remedied that by drilling two holes on either side of the gauge just behind the glass. This should prevent the build up of condensation. It also allows you to use a can of compressed air to clean any condensation that may build up (and it works really well too!).

 

All in all it was a successful modification. I am really happy with my cool retro tach, its easy to read (due to its large size) easy to see placement, and its lower price point.

 

 

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8552.jpg?t=1275937176

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8554.jpg?t=1275937176

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8553.jpg?t=1275937176

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8545.jpg?t=1275937176

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8547.jpg?t=1275937176

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8564.jpg?t=1276000546

Edited June 8, 2010 by phertwo
additional picture

[Kregerdoodle]

Nice clean job!! Looks Great!!

[LilBeaver]

Very cool find!!

 

Although the 198 is still a wee bit much for my taste. But it looks GREAT!!

[phertwo]

Thanks!

 

Yeah lilbeaver your right, its still is a bit pricey. For me, who was going to spend that money and more on a small motorcycle tach anyway, I figure I like the look and style of this one more. I always like the look of those classic car dash gauges. Maybe I should have got a big block cuda instead:happy-emoticon:.

[Monty]

Great! I have had an idea now for quite some time, and they may be just the folks who could help me implement it.

[phertwo]

Let me know if I can help! If find this sort of stuff 'fun'.

[V7Goose]

Thanks!

 

Yeah lilbeaver your right, its still is a bit pricey. For me, who was going to spend that money and more on a small motorcycle tach anyway, I figure I like the look and style of this one more. I always like the look of those classic car dash gauges. Maybe I should have got a big block cuda instead:happy-emoticon:.

I like what you did - very well executed. But not sure why you said you were going to spend that much on a tach anyway - there are a number of nice ones available for under $100. In fact, I just ordered a new Koso tach last night that is under 2 1/5 inches in diameter AND includes a digital water temp gauge in the middle for only $49.

Goose

[Carbon_One]

Very nicely done up phertwo. I always love reading about folks who make things like this work to their specifications. Yankee ingenuity at it best.

Great write up also.

Larry

[Carbon_One]

I like what you did - very well executed. But not sure why you said you were going to spend that much on a tach anyway - there are a number of nice ones available for under $100. In fact, I just ordered a new Koso tach last night that is under 2 1/5 inches in diameter AND includes a digital water temp gauge in the middle for only $49.

Goose

 

Nice link there Goose. I book marked it for futre reference. Let us know how well you like the gauge when you get it installed.

Larry

[phertwo]

Thanks again,

 

Goose, I was planning on buying one of those baron tach units: pretty small, pretty expensive and not the look I was going for. But something in the back of my head was telling me, you can probably find something different, maybe even have an excuse to pull out the MIG welder . I knew that I could buy a whole variety of different tachometers, and I was even looking at the one that you mentioned (with the temp display). But I wanted to go for a that retro look. Definitely more expense than other options available, but it has the look I was going for and comes in cheaper than the baron.

 

I may even add the matching "Quad" cluster next time, with fuel display(redundant but more gauges couldn't hurt) , oil pressure, water temp and volts.

[eagleeye]

Very nice job.

I've always wanted a tach on my RSTD. With your laddle as the mount, it appears that it is resting on the housing. Did you use silicon so it won't scratch the housing? Do you get much vibration?

Is a 2 1/2" guage available?

 

Steve

[phertwo]

Eagleeye,

 

Silicone yes! I put it between the laddle and the speedo casing. It prevents scratching and any ticking noises caused by vibration. It doesn't move at all while idling or riding, so its perfect for mounting on the speedo casing in a non-destructive fully reversible way. Maybe I can take a video of it when I have a chance.

[slick97spirit]

Love it! Looks like a professional install to me!

[phertwo]

Although, if I left on the spoon part of the laddle it would look completely opposite to professional!

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Very cool look.

 

And not that different from the many customs on the market..and factory bikes from HD also.

 

Goose, I did a search for those Koso gauges and they look cool too. I have often wondered if, hypothetically, some adventurous Venture owner gutted the existing speedo, swapped in a billet or powdercoated panel, and installed ALL new gauges. Say, a round speedo, tach, and fuel gauge, along with all the idiot lights and of course a couple of extra gauges such as oil or water temp, outside temp...etc. You might end up with something that resembled the dash on a HD ElectraGlide, as far as layout of gauges...or maybe not.

 

I can imagine the look, complete with speakers, and torx head screws, would LOOK cool, but I cant draw something like that, and make it look realistic enough to figure out if I would like the finished apprearance.

 

Anyway, thanks for the great write up, phertwo.

[phertwo]

Thanks Thanks!!

 

Ive added a night picture of the gauge lit up.

[tpalshadow]

Thanks Thanks!!

 

Ive added a night picture of the gauge lit up.

 

Now that look COOL!

[timgray]

Looks GREAT! like it belongs there.

 

My only worry, is it waterproof? Most items for cars are not because they assume it will be in a nice dry cabin area... Is the tach sealed it's self as well as the cup?

[phertwo]

Tim,

 

I sealed up all of the potential 'leak paths' with silicone during the installation. This would be the same approach for all the other folks that are using car tachometers. There are a few points where I applied the silicone to keep the water out. Around the rubber grommet where it fits into the cup, around the steel cable where it fits into the rubber grommet, around the tachometer where it fits into the cup. It seems to do the trick.

[Woodman]

I really like the way your tach looks and the way you mounted it on the bike. I hope you don't mind that I am going to copy your idea. I ordered my new tach and housing yesterday so I am excited to get started installing it in my warm shop since it is cold here. The way this tach matches the bike's gauge is what sold me, looks great at night too. I will post a picture when I get it installed. My bike is the one that Wedgebolt has pictured here, I bought it last spring on ebay, it has flames on it so it ought to have a tach. Thanks for all of your details on the install.

[Lone Eagle]

Great job - nice look!

[etcswjoe]

I like what you did - very well executed. But not sure why you said you were going to spend that much on a tach anyway - there are a number of nice ones available for under $100. In fact, I just ordered a new Koso tach last night that is under 2 1/5 inches in diameter AND includes a digital water temp gauge in the middle for only $49.

Goose

 

 

What was the model #?

[Condor]

Nice looking retro tach. I needed one in 2 5/8", but couldn't locate one so went with an Auto Meter Cycle Pro 19304.... So far so good.

[phertwo]

Thanks again guys,

 

Woodman, message me if you encounter any problems or concerns. It takes a little fidgeting with to get the right placement so that it fits nicely without coming into contact with the windshield.

[Woodman]

Well, I finally got the time to work on my bike today and got the new tach mounted and all hooked up. It looks really nice but when I started the bike it registers low on RPMs no matter where I set it. Here is how I hooked it up. I ran the wires into the headlight housing to get 12 volt and ground. I ran a short jumper wire between the 12volt and light terminals on the back of the tach. I then ran the signal wire to the white wire on the coil that is up above the front of the engine on the right side of the bike. The only thing I am wondering about is whether or not I hooked the signal wire to the right place on the bike, any advice will be appreciated. Thanks again, Phertwo, for all the details you wrote up on this, it looks great and surely I will get it working correctly with some help.