1800 wing front suspension

[Snarley Bill]

one of the major weak points of all 1800 wings is the front suspension. the stock 1800 wing has anti dive and piss poor front springs, that sag early in life, and are to soft to begin with. the dampening is not the best either. there are two fixes for this . both make a difference of night and day in handling and ride. the first and most expensive is traxxion suspension like eck has on his. the poor mans fix is the race tech springs, gold valve and emulator like i have installed in mine. mine was around $400.00 for parts and i did it myself. the traxxion is over $2000,00 dollars and it requires machining of the forks , so you have to have them or one of their dealers do it. i consider either of these mods a must after riding mine stock, and with the modification. both mods deactivate the antidive as part of the install. you can deactivate the antidive with a simple mod and a nickle with a hole drilled in it, but then the front springs will be noticibly inadequate on hard stops. the antidive basically locks up the front forks when stopping hard and makes for a really rough ride when decelerating and using the brakes, front or rear. since wings have interlocking front and rear brakes it does it when using both brakes. some folks may not be bothered or notice the inefficiency of the oem set up. if your wanting the ultimate handling and suspension performance out of your wing, either one of these mods will make a big difference. the big gains are, much improved rebound on rough roads, a firmer ride, slightly more ground clearance (harder to drag my highway boards now), and a more secure feel in the curves. wings are unbelievable in the handling department. i can't believe a bike this big can can handle like a sport bike.

[buddy]

Thanks for the info. Bill:happy34:

If you ever get the urge to sell it give me first shot.

There are two GL1800 I would love to have one is yours and the other is Roadkills

Both the same year and same color.

[Snarley Bill]

Thanks for the info. Bill:happy34:

If you ever get the urge to sell it give me first shot.

There are two GL1800 I would love to have one is yours and the other is Roadkills

Both the same year and same color.

buddy, i may sell it next summer, i'm kind of getting the hankering to retire again and will have to get back in the real world of good sense, and get down to 2 bikes. i want to keep my majesty for sure, and one other. not sure which one. hope you find a nice wing. see you at the hub. bill

[FreezyRider]

And the real "poor man's" front suspension fix is to spend about $120 for a set of progressive springs. Takes maybe 30 minutes to change them and is a vast improvement.....at least they were on my GL1500. I will be going that route on my new to me 1800 shortly along with disabling the anti-dive.

I know it isn't as good as the others mentioned by Snarley Bill, but then it isn't as $$ either and still a big improvement.

 

Hey Bill, just curious.....have you done anything about the wimpy rear shock? That is actually the weakest part of the suspension link on mine. With 67,000 miles on it, it bottoms on the least little bump even with the preload at 25.

 

Joe

[Snarley Bill]

And the real "poor man's" front suspension fix is to spend about $120 for a set of progressive springs. Takes maybe 30 minutes to change them and is a vast improvement.....at least they were on my GL1500. I will be going that route on my new to me 1800 shortly along with disabling the anti-dive.

I know it isn't as good as the others mentioned by Snarley Bill, but then it isn't as $$ either and still a big improvement.

 

Hey Bill, just curious.....have you done anything about the wimpy rear shock? That is actually the weakest part of the suspension link on mine. With 67,000 miles on it, it bottoms on the least little bump even with the preload at 25.

 

Joe

joe, i have had no issues with my rear shock yet. i run the preload on 9. it seems fine for me. i have a new progessive 460 rear shock sitting here in a box. just can't get the energy up to take half the bike apart to install it. i had a set of progressive springs for the front but decided to go with the race tech springs after doing a little research. the race tec springs aren't progressive wound and give a little more rebound responce. i was having trouble with the oem front end not rebounding on one certain section of outer road on i-70. so much so that i avoided riding on it. my other bikes were never a problem on it. now the wing handles the slight wash board condition just fine. i really recommend the full racetech mod. it is a major job but, but well worth the money and effort. all this tech talk is kind of getting me excited about working on my wing. i need a new aircleaner and have been putting that off. was going to do the aircleaner and rear shock at the same time. hard to believe you have to start at the front and pull the dash and speaker covers off to get to the rear shock and air cleaner. lol.

[RoadKill]

Thanks for the info. Bill:happy34:

If you ever get the urge to sell it give me first shot.

There are two GL1800 I would love to have one is yours and the other is Roadkills

Both the same year and same color.

 

I have yet to hear how much $$$ you would be willing to pay??? As my Dad used to say, everything was for sale except Mom and me and on certain days he would just give us away You name the right price and Dawn approves it you might have a Goldwing.

[FreezyRider]

joe, i have had no issues with my rear shock yet. i run the preload on 9. it seems fine for me. i have a new progessive 460 rear shock sitting here in a box. just can't get the energy up to take half the bike apart to install it. i had a set of progressive springs for the front but decided to go with the race tech springs after doing a little research. the race tec springs aren't progressive wound and give a little more rebound responce. i was having trouble with the oem front end not rebounding on one certain section of outer road on i-70. so much so that i avoided riding on it. my other bikes were never a problem on it. now the wing handles the slight wash board condition just fine. i really recommend the full racetech mod. it is a major job but, but well worth the money and effort. all this tech talk is kind of getting me excited about working on my wing. i need a new aircleaner and have been putting that off. was going to do the aircleaner and rear shock at the same time. hard to believe you have to start at the front and pull the dash and speaker covers off to get to the rear shock and air cleaner. lol.

 

Doesn't surprise me all that much.....I don't have a service manual yet. What else has to come off to change that rear shock? I want to change mine before we leave for Arkansas on the 19th.

[Eck]

 

What else has to come off to change that rear shock? I want to change mine before we leave for Arkansas on the 19th.

 

You better get started now then.. lots of work to change the rear shock.

 

Lets see:You must remove the seat, the front top shroud completely, now your gas tank, side covers, and the rear wheel just for starters..you should then be able to get to the

rear shock. while tore apart this far I highly recommend you change the air filter if one is needed.

 

PS; Like Snarley Bill, I have never had any issues with my rear shock and I own an 02.

Does your shock hold air in BOTH of it's memory settings?

Edited June 6, 2010 by Eck

[kj5ix]

Not that bad actually,,, no need to get that deep I take 1800 shocks out all the time, and don't get near that deep... Harder to put back in, but less time.

Seat of course, and side covers, set pre load to 0, remove rear wheel. with a long 8mm hex socket, and extension on the left side go between the wiring harness to seat the hex into the bolt head. From the right side put a long large flat blade under the tank front, and between the nut, and frame. hit the left side socket with a low pressure impact wrench (I use a 3/8 Butterfly), and the nut on the right will fall to the floor. Take a long 12 to 18 inch drift AKA bar, about the size of a #2 Phillips, and knock out the bolt. Top part is done. Oh it is easer if you have some one to help that has some strength to help hold up the rear the bolt will come out much easer, and to but it back in requires two people too......... take the pump off without breaking the link hose connection, on the right side up by the seat rails, and disconnect the elect connections. Take the two hoses off the top of the gas tank that go to the right and down into the frame, and pull them in front of the pressure line to the shock pump, and put back on gas tank where they were. drop the center link (banana looking thing, and remember how it was in ) The shock will fall about half way out. With a helper move the rear end up and down a little while you work the shock out, and the pump, and line. Easy !!!! the hard part is getting it back in.

 

Use the same method to replace the top hex bolt, and nut to tighten. The really hard thing is getting your hand up into the bolt to stare the nut by hand, but it can be done. Just takes patience.

[buddy]

I have yet to hear how much $$$ you would be willing to pay??? As my Dad used to say, everything was for sale except Mom and me and on certain days he would just give us away You name the right price and Dawn approves it you might have a Goldwing.

Sounds like I need to cut out the middle man and talk to Dawn instead:rotfl:

[buddy]

The GL1800 is at the top of the list for best handling & performance for a touring bike but their biggest weakness is their a pain in the rear to work on. If your not mechanically inclined your going to hate working on these things

Its bad when you have to remove part of the dash just change out the air filter When I was installing the CB on our Wing Peg came out to give me some ice tea and when she saw I had it all over the garage floor she said I hope you know where everything goes because it looks like a bomb went off:think: I had parts everywhere me being a mechanic I dint think twice about it but for some others it would have been a nightmare

To change out the water pump you have to pull the motor.

They do have a million mile club and you tell them your Wing has 80,000 to 100,000 miles on it they will laugh saying thats chicken feed so that has to say something about these motors

[Snarley Bill]

on the gl forum fred has a set of dvd's on short cuts to work on everything on a wing. i bought a set last year. really makes everything easier. he has alot of shortcuts and tricks. the videos are very high quality. and he holds the camera with one hand and works on the bike with the other. go figure.

[FreezyRider]

You better get started now then.. lots of work to change the rear shock.

 

Lets see:You must remove the seat, the front top shroud completely, now your gas tank, side covers, and the rear wheel just for starters..you should then be able to get to the

rear shock. while tore apart this far I highly recommend you change the air filter if one is needed.

 

PS; Like Snarley Bill, I have never had any issues with my rear shock and I own an 02.

Does your shock hold air in BOTH of it's memory settings?

 

Yes, it does hold the pressure where I set it for both memory settings. It just seems that no matter where it is set, the ride on the passenger seat is very harsh according to Donna. We have had an 82 Aspy, a 99 Aspy, an RSV, and now the 03. She said it is the worst riding by far. When we hit one of those spots on the road where they have trenched across for an electric or other line, then refilled and paved it (you know, the ones that always settle a couple inches lower than the rest of the road) the jarring will actually hurt. Last week I hit one at 55mph, preload at 20. She grimaced and howled, next day her lower back was stiff and sore.

While I was prepared for a more sport-tuned suspension, this just doesn't seem right. Not for a Wing.

 

Joe

[Eck]

Last week I hit one at 55mph, preload at 20. She grimaced and howled, next day her lower back was stiff and sore.

While I was prepared for a more sport-tuned suspension, this just doesn't seem right. Not for a Wing.

 

Joe

it's not right... and something is wrong..

 

you might be correct...sounds like a bad shock..

[RoadKill]

Sounds like I need to cut out the middle man and talk to Dawn instead:rotfl:

 

If you had done that in the beginning you would probably still have it:confused24: As I remember I had to get pretty creative to explain how I traded bikes while she was sleeping.

 

Seriously, shoot me an offer if you are really interested.

 

Jay

[Snarley Bill]

Yes, it does hold the pressure where I set it for both memory settings. It just seems that no matter where it is set, the ride on the passenger seat is very harsh according to Donna. We have had an 82 Aspy, a 99 Aspy, an RSV, and now the 03. She said it is the worst riding by far. When we hit one of those spots on the road where they have trenched across for an electric or other line, then refilled and paved it (you know, the ones that always settle a couple inches lower than the rest of the road) the jarring will actually hurt. Last week I hit one at 55mph, preload at 20. She grimaced and howled, next day her lower back was stiff and sore.

While I was prepared for a more sport-tuned suspension, this just doesn't seem right. Not for a Wing.

 

Joe

joe, the preload on the rear shock is hydraulic. there is away fo replenish the oil in the chamber. even though you are reading 25 on the preload you may not have any or very low preload. this is a commom thing on the wing. the preload read out is not pressure, but the location of the preload piston. if the oil is not in the chamber you will get a false reading. with the miles you have, your spring is probably weak which amplifies the problem. this is not an air shock. the hydraulic piston compresses the spring to increase preload

.

[FreezyRider]

joe, the preload on the rear shock is hydraulic. there is away fo replenish the oil in the chamber. even though you are reading 25 on the preload you may not have any or very low preload. this is a commom thing on the wing. the preload read out is not pressure, but the location of the preload piston. if the oil is not in the chamber you will get a false reading. with the miles you have, your spring is probably weak which amplifies the problem. this is not an air shock. the hydraulic piston compresses the spring to increase preload

.

 

I just ran across the instructions for refilling the preload pump yesterday. I'm going to do that this week and see what happens. In running the test to see if it needs it, my pump did not come under load until it hit 9....meaning that I'm getting less than 2/3 of the preload ability that it should have. I'll probably start tearing into it this evening.

 

Joe

[LilBeaver]

... the poor mans fix is the race tech springs, gold valve and emulator like i have installed in mine...

 

 

Just curious here. Is this a distant cousin of the chromed kanooter valve?

I really don't know that much about suspension, but I am trying to learn...

[FreezyRider]

Just curious here. Is this a distant cousin of the chromed kanooter valve?

I really don't know that much about suspension, but I am trying to learn...

 

Well, you can run a chromed Kanooter valve if you want to. But that is just a cheap knock-off of the original European Kneuter valve. Much higher quality, and you get the embossed KV emblem to boot!

[LilBeaver]

Well, you can run a chromed Kanooter valve if you want to. But that is just a cheap knock-off of the original European Kneuter valve. Much higher quality, and you get the embossed KV emblem to boot!

 

OOoooooo

 

Oh yea, and:

[Tartan Terror]

I can relate to the springs and Racetech valves. I did that to my RSV and it really made a huge difference. Not sure why these companies cant do this stuff in design phase.

[Snarley Bill]

I can relate to the springs and Racetech valves. I did that to my RSV and it really made a huge difference. Not sure why these companies cant do this stuff in design phase.

they weren't figuring on the extra weight of the bag pipes when they designed the forks. :rotf:

[Tartan Terror]

they weren't figuring on the extra weight of the bag pipes when they designed the forks. :rotf:

 

NNnnnnaaaaa!!! Its the added downforce of the bass drum strapped on my back!!! LOL