N3FOL Posted June 3, 2010 #26 Posted June 3, 2010 For water to get in the final gear oil assuming that the plug is properly torqued, the seal must be in real bad shape to allow this to happen. I've never replaced my final gear bolt washer as of yet, but I shall replace this the next time I change gear oil. I think it is about 50 cents each at my local auto parts store.
V7Goose Posted June 3, 2010 #27 Posted June 3, 2010 I cannot say for sure what your problem is, but there just ain't no way it is the washer on the drain bolt! If that was in any way loose enough to allow water to get in, you'd have a hell of an oil mess all over the bootom of the unit, the wheel, and everything else! In fact, you'd have to loose all the oil before anything could get sucked in that way! It never hurts to use fresh washers on any drain bolt, and I'm not about to suggest that you should not do that. But if oil ain't getting out, then nothing else is getting in that way. Personally, I never even think about replacing those washers unless I can see some slight oil misting and dirt around them And I never have. I'd suspect two possibilities - first would be the vent on the top of the unit. I do not know how that vent is actually made (never looked at it), but it is conceivable that it could allow water get sucked in as the unit cools if there was something about how the bike was packed or parked that allowed water to directly fall on the vent. The second thing I'd consider is the thick rubber seal that fits around the base of the drive splines and the o-ring that fits inside the drive hub. Since there is an oil seal for the ring gear and axle shaft, that is the most likely place for a problem. Wouldn't surprise me much of a careless person lost that big rubber seal when changing your tire. I'm just speculating from memory here on where the seals are and if they might even cause the problem, since I have never had the need to look at them from the aspect of water getting in. I always considered that rubber seal more of a grease gaurd to keep from flinging crap all over the rear wheel, but maybe it has another purpose too? Goose
Guest tx2sturgis Posted October 13, 2010 #28 Posted October 13, 2010 (edited) 200degs.?? Man if it gets that hot we'd better start making them water cooled.... Where'd you find that info about the final?? I'm always willing to learn... Update: I bought a small IR temp probe and took a reading off the drive hub the other day. Outside air temperature was about 70 degrees. I took the reading after one hour of riding at about 70-75 mph. Pulled over, took the readings on the top and the bottom of the drive hub. 175 F on the bottom, and 186 F on the top of the housing. I can only assume the inside fluid temperature is a bit hotter, since the outside casing is subject to some air-cooling. From this reading I conclude that in 100 degree weather, the gear oil is most likely getting above 200 degrees after an hour or so of travel. I will also take more readings in the future. Edited October 14, 2010 by tx2sturgis
MikeWa Posted October 14, 2010 #29 Posted October 14, 2010 The final drive breaths air out and in as it heats and cools. Hence the vent. If ridden in a very humid area it is going to get moisture and condensation in it. This is normal. If the bike is ridden hard enough or long enough it might boil off. Otherwise it will stay in the drive. If you are not leaking oil and it is not coolant it is probably not a bad seal. It is only an issue if the amount of moisture is excessive. Drain the oil and let it stand in a clear container. The oil and water will separate in a few days. Or have the oil tested. Mike
Capt-D Posted October 14, 2010 #30 Posted October 14, 2010 What oil do you guys like to use in the final drive?
Guest tx2sturgis Posted October 14, 2010 #31 Posted October 14, 2010 What oil do you guys like to use in the final drive? A good synthetic gear lube. Something like Amsoil or Royal Purple.
LilBeaver Posted October 14, 2010 #32 Posted October 14, 2010 What oil do you guys like to use in the final drive? http://www.smileyvault.com/albums/forum/smileyvault-popcorn.gif Mobil 1 for me.
LilBeaver Posted October 14, 2010 #33 Posted October 14, 2010 Update: I bought a small IR temp probe and took a reading off the drive hub the other day. Outside air temperature was about 70 degrees. I took the reading after one hour of riding at about 70-75 mph. Pulled over, took the readings on the top and the bottom of the drive hub. 175 F on the bottom, and 186 F on the top of the housing. I can only assume the inside fluid temperature is a bit hotter, since the outside casing is subject to some air-cooling. From this reading I conclude that in 100 degree weather, the gear oil is most likely getting above 200 degrees after an hour or so of travel. I will also take more readings in the future. Good info here. Thanks!! I've been watching for them to go on sale and haven't seen it happen yet - you beat me to it
saddlebum Posted October 14, 2010 #34 Posted October 14, 2010 Ok here it is plain and simple, there should be no water in the diff. If it is milky like a cup of mocha or even lighter like a capacino there is too much water in it and it will distroy your bearings and may even cause cavitation on other internal parts. Water gets in one of two ways 1) it leaks in from an external source through bad seals and gaskets. or 2) it is an accumulation of condesation, this is usually the result of a plugged or restrited breather. Condesation is the result of moisture laden air making its way into the diff past the seals. it is drawn in by vacume created as the diff oil cools down. because a seal, seals in one direction only this moistures only escape route is to exit via the vent, but if it is plugged or restricted the moisture cannot escape and builds up each time more enters each time the diff oil cools down. Eventually the oil becomes milky from too much water . Number -1- change your oil ASAP. -2- remove the breather and check that it breaths freely by blowing through, if not clean or replace it. -3- after changing your oil clean the outside and closly observe for any leaks (if water can leak in due to bad seals, than oil may also be able to leak out. Just an interesting point here one of our customers with a large fleet of 18 wheelers had the same problem in there diffs and we found the issue to be undersized vents used in the differentials. Once we upgraded them to larger vents the problem was eliminated
Guest tx2sturgis Posted October 14, 2010 #36 Posted October 14, 2010 (edited) Good info here. Thanks!! I've been watching for them to go on sale and haven't seen it happen yet - you beat me to it http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200395583_200395583 This is the one I bought. Its about the size of a Zippo lighter, and feathery light. They have several different models, but thats the cheapest one that measures over 250F, with a 5:1 capture area, so I bought it. If you click on the 'SEE ALL' link near the bottom right of that page, be sure your credit card is handy! http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/715504_lg.jpg Edited October 14, 2010 by tx2sturgis
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