Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Rotella T6 FULL Synthetic.

 

I understand this is now within the specs of the Yamaha Warranty and can now be used on the Venture.

 

So my questions are:

 

(1) How many of you have used the Rotella T6?

(2) If you are getting it at Walmart, what OIL FILTER are you getting there?

(3) Are there ANY special considerations when changing the oil. It looks pretty straight forward...1 draing plug, and one oil filter.

 

Thanks.

 

Wally

Posted

I have used Rotella T 5W-40 for the last 40,000 miles. Turned over 80,000 just last week. No issues. Shifts seem crisper than with another oil I have tried such as Mobil 1, Yamalube and some Dino oils. Switched to Rotella T6 my last oil change about 2,500 miles ago.I'm happy to see Yamaha has OK'd T6. What a cost saver. Good luck.

Posted

I have used Rotella oil early on now I'm using Mobil 1 can't tell any difference. I like them both. I use the Puralator filter PL14610, You can also use the PL14612 but the 14610 is a little longer (just a little more filter area) But Wallyworld doesn't sell the filter in my area, I get it from an auto parts store.

Posted (edited)
(1) How many of you have used the Rotella T6?

 

I am using it!!!! as well as many others. Have you gone to Bob is the oil guy website to research the number of motorcycle owners that are using Rotella T6?

 

(2) If you are getting it at Walmart, what OIL FILTER are you getting there?

 

I do NOT buy my oil filters at walleyworld.

 

I purchase mine at Advance Auto Parts as my local store gives a 10% military discount.

 

I use Purolator PureOne PL14612 filters due to their higher efficiency and reasonable cost. I don't use the taller PL14610 as for me it was a PITA to install and remove.

 

(3) Are there ANY special considerations when changing the oil. It looks pretty straight forward...1 draing plug, and one oil filter.

 

DON'T over fill. with the bike level do NOT fill higher than half way up in the sight window.

 

Thanks.

 

your welcome.

Edited by KiteSquid
Posted

OH...I did have one last question...This oil change can be done without having to be put on a lift correct. I can change the oil and filter with just the side stand down. Right?

Posted (edited)

You can do it, but you should hold the bike level to drain it properly.

 

Also you must check the oil level with the bike level.

 

A bike jack makes the process easyer, but is not nessesary.

 

 

If you plan on doing any wrenching on your bike an inexpensive jack is worth it.

 

IIRC I paid $80 at Harbor Freight for mine.....

 

 

For oil changes I use a Motorcycle Stand/Wheel Chock like this one from Harbor Freight CLICK HERE

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_3963.jpg

 

I got it on DEEP sale pricing. IIRC $40....

Edited by KiteSquid
Posted

Thanks...

 

Actually, I have a bike jack (a friend has it now)...but I was under the impression that I had to have an "adapter" for the jack to work with the Venture.

 

Anyway...I have 2x6 beveled boards and then another board doubled up that looks like a step...and I have used it to do all my VTX oil changes...it's quick, it's easy and it keeps the bike ALMOST level.

 

THanks for the info.

 

Wally

Posted
Thanks...

 

Actually, I have a bike jack (a friend has it now)...but I was under the impression that I had to have an "adapter" for the jack to work with the Venture.

 

Anyway...I have 2x6 beveled boards and then another board doubled up that looks like a step...and I have used it to do all my VTX oil changes...it's quick, it's easy and it keeps the bike ALMOST level.

 

THanks for the info.

 

Wally

 

You do need an adaptor, but my cheap butt uses 4 hockey pucks instead and works just fine. You can also put a pair of jack stands under the rear crash bars to hold the bike up right and steady.

Posted
Rotella T6 FULL Synthetic.

 

I understand this is now within the specs of the Yamaha Warranty and can now be used on the Venture.

 

So my questions are:

 

(1) How many of you have used the Rotella T6?

(2) If you are getting it at Walmart, what OIL FILTER are you getting there?

(3) Are there ANY special considerations when changing the oil. It looks pretty straight forward...1 draing plug, and one oil filter.

 

Thanks.

 

Wally

 

My story is purely anecdotal but I tried the Rotella T6 full synthetic and won't go back to it.. partly because of what I think it did to my clutch and because it's hard to find around here.. (like everything else)..

 

I burnt / fried my heavy duty clutch last month on an Advanced Rider Course where you have to ride the clutch a lot in these tight slow speed maneuvers, even with leveling links etc it's hard on the clutch.. but man, what I feel it did to my clutch, ugh.. When I pulled my clutch apart, it had that Rotella smell on it, but burnt..

 

Many will say otherwise, and it's just my opinion but I switched back to Yamalube dino oil and going to keep away from the synthetic stuff for a while on this bike.

 

I do a lot of slow maneuvers on this bike so riding the clutch isn't something I'm not used to doing but the Rotella seemed to not have liked playing nice with the clutch after I switched to it..

 

Most likely, with everyday normal and typical riding you may never notice a difference.. but that one incident was enough to turn me away from it.. just as well, can't seem to find it locally anymore anyway.. oh well.

 

Someone pointed out to me that oil is meant to make parts slippery between themselves and that synthetics do so even more.. but with a wet clutch system, 'too' slippery could be detrimental.. I dunno.. As I said, my observations are basically anecdotal as to what happened to me that one time..

 

As far as oil change time goes, clean the drain plug area with a rag as well as around the filter area.. no use in accidentally contaminating your new oil change with debris coming in contact with your new filter or the drain plug. I always use a new crush washer under the drain plug (looks like the spark plug washer).. costs a few pennies, why not. I always do the oil change after a hard ride when the engine is hot, pull the drain, filter and open the filler cap a bit to allow proper draining. Bringing the bike to the upright position will drain more oil.. The whole idea is to get as much of the old stuff out before putting in the new stuff huh?

 

Should not have to put a wrench on your oil filter, otherwise it may stick when you go to take it off. I always put a coating of oil on the filter seal before putting it on.

 

Another 'eccentric' thing I do is that I store all my oils 'upside down' on the shelves, and prior to using I give it a good shake to mix things up. Odd as it may sound, it's an old practice to ensure a proper mixing of the additives in the oil. Though the additives (all that good stuff that makes it a good engine oil) are usually all mixed in a proper suspension in the oil, some tend to settle to the bottom of any container. If you store it upside down then some of it migrates to the top so that when you shake it upright, more of the stuff will make it to the engine.. Some call it eccentric, some call it needless, some call it 'why not'.. Old air force practice.. go figure.

Posted

I have used T6 for about 15,000 miles now with 30,000 total on the bike. No problems.

 

I use nothing but Wix filters 51358 (NAPA Gold is the same filter).

 

I change every 5,000 miles and oil still looks pretty clean.

Posted
You can do it, but you should hold the bike level to drain it properly.

 

Also you must check the oil level with the bike level.

 

A bike jack makes the process easyer, but is not nessesary.

 

 

If you plan on doing any wrenching on your bike an inexpensive jack is worth it.

 

IIRC I paid $80 at Harbor Freight for mine.....

 

 

For oil changes I use a Motorcycle Stand/Wheel Chock like this one from Harbor Freight CLICK HERE

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_3963.jpg

 

I got it on DEEP sale pricing. IIRC $40....

 

Don't put a 150 tire in the black H/F chock!!! You'll end up having to let the air out of the tire to get it out.:headache:

BTDT-Burnt the Tee shirt!!!!!!!!!!!

Posted
Don't put a 150 tire in the black H/F chock!!! You'll end up having to let the air out of the tire to get it out.:headache:

BTDT-Burnt the Tee shirt!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

I have the 150 front tire on my bike and have no problems with my H-F wheel chock.

 

 

IIRC the pin for the front plate is in the middle hole when I use it. the photo on the H-F site is a 21 inch wheel while our bikes have a 16 inch wheel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...