mityvac bleeder tool

[oldgoat]

has any one ever used one of these to do the brakes on a first generation?

im working on flushing the whole brake system to stop this overheating locking up problem. it looks like a good one man operation tool. and for 40 bucks a good investment i think?

it wont over fill the master i hope? its hot out there today not even high noon and 80 whew and no shade trees where i live i just got a small off street lot to work on. i swear you can see heat deamons comming off that lot. so im thinking late evening or early morning monday. and i will pick up this tool if it meets the ventures aproval here

[hipshot]

i bought one and used it on both the MKII, and cb900 custom.in my opinion, you can't go wrong with the mighty-vac kit. just jt

[Yammer Dan]

has any one ever used one of these to do the brakes on a first generation?

im working on flushing the whole brake system to stop this overheating locking up problem. it looks like a good one man operation tool. and for 40 bucks a good investment i think?

it wont over fill the master i hope? its hot out there today not even high noon and 80 whew and no shade trees where i live i just got a small off street lot to work on. i swear you can see heat deamons comming off that lot. so im thinking late evening or early morning monday. and i will pick up this tool if it meets the ventures aproval here

 

 

If you are overheating and locking up you have too much fluid in the rear cylinder. Takle a 8mm wrench with you and a few paper towels. When it starts getting hot and locking up crack bleeder holding paper towel to catch fluid. Do this a few times and you will have it. Or do it the easy way and just bleed it down some before you take off but you have to learn about how much fluid should be in the thing. Down about 1/2 inch from top.

[midnightventure]

I use it on all my vehicles.

[Sylvester]

I use the Mity Vac on everything with hydraulic lines. Great on the clutch also. It is a good buy at any price.

 

[dingy]

it wont over fill the master i hope?

 

The mighty vac won't fill the master, it pulls fluid through the brake caliper bleeder screw, slowly emptying the master.

 

You need to keep an eye on the master so you don't empty it and draw air back into lines.

 

The last thing you do is refill the master to whatever level you want.

 

The rear is the toughest, due to it not having a sight glass.

 

I have a very small, turkey baster like suction bulb I use. I can top the master reservoir off, then suck out some of the fluid.

 

Gary

[oldgoat]

thanks everyone where working on it tonight. the turkey baster sounds like a good idea fill it up bleed it off. then check for amount of fluid and drain or add as needed. went looking for bleeder screws but forgot its sunday LOL also i got one of these ear wax flusher bulbs would that work to fill it or drain some? looks long enough and why can i ride the bike around town and up and down my road and it wont over heat the brakes only when i take it for a fast ride up to 45 mph. and around 2 miles before it does it? heat from exhaust and just plain time for the rear to heat up? right now brakes are spongy? also last night we turned on the key and even though the brakes where free rear brake light was on. i backed of the brake peddle about 2 turns someone adjusted it to tight. not me i swear. so iam thinking brake lever to tight working the brake in town before i hit that back road started makeing contact with the rotor till it got hot and locked. wow never had this hard a time bleeding cars LOL

[bkuhr]

also last night we turned on the key and even though the brakes where free rear brake light was on. i backed of the brake peddle about 2 turns someone adjusted it to tight. not me i swear. so iam thinking brake lever to tight working the brake in town before i hit that back road started makeing contact with the rotor till it got hot and locked

 

Is rear brake pedal return spring bringing pedal all the way back up against the stop, or is there slack in pedal. May need to disassemble pedal and correct spring placement.

Edited May 24, 2010 by bkuhr
try to correct quote

[Marcarl]

Also check to make sure your foot comes OFF of the brake pedal, if it doesn't you'll be riding the brake,,,,causes heating in the caliper, wearing of the shoes and worst of all, the weeeee little return hole in the master doesn't open to allow fluid to come back through the master.

[oldgoat]

yep im thinking pull the master as a last thing to do and check the wee wee hole. man i would hate to have to replace the pads again because of a ID10t error:bang head:

[Condor]

I don't like it, but everyone else does....

[oldgoat]

well i got a sticky brake light switch i think. just pump the foot lever and sometimes it snaps back press hard on it and the brake light stays on. where all most there with getting it done. man there is air in this system. we put new dot 4 in it and where letting it sit till monday night. also we changed out the front brake fluid that was waiting to become a problem. real dark looking filled it pumped it little spongy so we zip tied it and going to let it sit. if i need to rebuild these calipers any good place to get the kits? i know sky dock does theses for around 70 per? is it a send in yours and he sends ya the rebuilts. kind of a swap thing. if all else fails off to freebirds on a trailer for MD and ill bring some thing for MD to pay for the help?

[dvuch1]

I just purchased an 86 VR and needed to bleed the brakes as they were spongy. First I checked the pads and they were all fine-so no issue there. I never have bled brakes on a bike and thought it would be difficult to reach every pedal/handle and bleeder screw but it was all within reach and I didn't need any help. I attached a 1/4 inch rubber tube to the bleeder screws and placed the end into a fairly clear gallon milk jug so I could see that it was draining.Start with the Right front rotor/caliper screw which is the target of the Right hand lever control. Remove the master cylinder lid to of the see the level of DOT 3 fluid. Following that, one needs to go to the left front caliper bleeder screw. This is the target of the rear master cylinder (under the right hand fairing)and right foot brake pedal (as well as the rear caliper) . When you go after the last bleeder screw on the rear caliper there are two bolts--you need to remove the rear bolt of the caliper and loosen the front caliper bolt.Raise the rear of the caliper 1.2 inches (by the book and you dont let the pads slip out) so that it is ABOVE the level of the rear master cylinder so the air (if any) can escape..this is important-I blew it off at first but found air on my 2nd time through and it made alot of difference. I'm sure the Mity Vac is a cool tool but how often do you bleed brakes and it takes an hour at most. Hope this helps !

[oldgoat]

im going to get slack on this how does one do the front left bleeding by yourself if no one is around to pump the brake lever? ok im done posting

[saddlebum]

The mighty vac is an excellent tool for bleeding brakes. the only thing better is to use a windsheild washer pump. 1st Drain all the fluid out of the system then using the little pump. pump fluid directly into the bleeder screw from the bottle until the master is full to its proper level. Voila, you just filled your system with fresh clean fluid and bled all in one easy step.

[oldgoat]

thanks to all off you for your great help.

we got it done. had to spray the linkage and fiddle with the brake light switch. but got that working. we went with a manual mighty vac and just went at it like crazy let me tell you for 40 bucks plus uncle sam this is a good investment tool. with someone watching the master and helping me we went through almost a full 12 ounce can i went dot 4. they tried to talk me into something called dot 5? but that has silicone in it and i was thinking that could be a bad thing. they also said they had special brake fluid they could order with a high boiling point cost 25 bucks for a 32 ounce bottle ? and made for ABS systems? we went and bleed them till the warring light came on. so just a litttle bitty more fluid and light went off. took it out for a 10 mile run and took the 8mm wrench with me no lock up and ran fine. so we think we got it right still a little soft feel but could just be me as i been out on the maxim and theres a differance between the 2 so can you say jim is a happy camper. if you where all close by drinks would be on me

[sgn]

Ride that thing for a week and then let it bleed again.

 

Mine felt "spongy" also and by riding and then bleeding the entire sytem one more time things just felt so much better.

 

Now you know what the fluid levels should be bleeding again will be easy to get right the "first" time.

 

Steve