getting angry at myself

[oldgoat]

ok what am i doing wrong? i worked on my brakes a while back. i did over fill the rear master and had a overheat lock up. i lossened the bango bolts as i couldnt get the bleeder lose. this was a roadside emergency. i sat for a half hour. drank some water. and the bike was ready to go. yesterday it was in the 60,s i went for a 12 mile ride all was well. today its in the 80,s i went for a ride and damn i wasent even hardly useing the brakes just going up a hill got to top and then a nice long country road awaits me. then it happened again. brakes locked up? once again opened the bango bolts i need to get new bleeders . these are some what rounded off by PO. now there is no brakes what so ever for rear and left front. thats ok as i made it home. but did i put the wrong brake fluid in there and its over heating? bike says DOT3? i bet this has a low boiling point. any sugestions.? i borrowed my maxim and now looks like a no ride day. just sit back grill some steaks and get wasted. i guess. i did replace the rotors all new pads rotors where used from pinwalls off of ebay. only 21000 miles on them and looked good? well time to fire up the barbie i guess?

[oldgoat]

no one:think: hmm must be jim put the bike back in the garage your stupid to own a venture:rasberry:

[1BigDog]

Do it right and rebuild your calipers and rear master cylinder. And add new bleeder screws too. The bike is 26 years old. Use DOT4 for a higher boiling point. Its also possible that your brake line is deteriorating on the inside, causing lock-up. If you now have no pedal then you definitely have air in your system as well. And dont ride wasted....eat the steak first....

[oldgoat]

thanks ruffy steaks are on the grill friends are comming over. and yep im thinking about doing the rebuild of calipers. just need to know where to get the parts? also thought about getting a replacement rear master off pinwall on ebay. this one sure looks rough. i went out and adjusted the brake lever. and got some rear brakes now but im not going for a long ride to try it out. its hot out here and im just too darn old to sit by the side of the road. and look like a lost puppy. but hey just like any old venture it still got me home. im thinking no steaks for them till they help with the bike. but im not like that so maybe $12 per plate LOL

[tsigwing]

thanks ruffy steaks are on the grill friends are comming over. and yep im thinking about doing the rebuild of calipers. just need to know where to get the parts? also thought about getting a replacement rear master off pinwall on ebay. this one sure looks rough. i went out and adjusted the brake lever. and got some rear brakes now but im not going for a long ride to try it out. its hot out here and im just too darn old to sit by the side of the road. and look like a lost puppy. but hey just like any old venture it still got me home. im thinking no steaks for them till they help with the bike. but im not like that so maybe $12 per plate LOL

 

 

I'd be replacing the brake lines.

[1BigDog]

Check with SkyDoc for parts. Hes pretty good with the old stuff.

[oldgoat]

yep when sky doc gets better and i figure out how to install the lines im thinking delinking theses suckers and go steel? i heard about rk1 calipers too. i was going to give up on this bike but im starting to work on it myself and its a learning thing.

[friesman]

It seems to be a learning thing with these G1 Scoots. I knew nothing about my 85 when I bought it and then the trans output shaft broke.

With the help of everyone in here, and tons of it from Rocket (he basically rebuilt my bike from top to bottom when we had the engine out.) I now feel I have a pretty good handle on the basic stuff that it takes to keep these great machines in tip top shape.

The steel brake lines made the biggest improvement to braking and made it easier to bleed also, by adding the bleeder valve up at the top of the triple tree.

The cheapest upgrade that added the most amount of improvement was the progressive springs into the forks for about 70 bux.

I would recommend www.partshark.com for parts as they have the parts fiches available online so u can lookup part numbers and figure things out, plus i find their prices pretty good usually. Buckeye also carries parts for these bikes as well.

I also know that if you need a hint on how to proceed with something, Rocket would welcome an email from you and a chance to help you get your issues resolved.

Brian

[dingy]

I would not put the R1 on the front if you are going to delink the brakes.

 

I put MKII's on front with delinked brakes and it has got enough stopping power to lock front wheel up. You should also go to an MKII front master cylinder if you delink brakes. Cylinder bore is larger to match increased caliper piston volume.

 

I know that with the MKII brakes you need to change the lower front fork tubes out to accommodate the bolt spacing on the MKII caliper mounts, this is if you are doing the change to an MKI, The R1's also require this, I believe.

 

You can also put put MKII brakes on the rear wheel, but it requires a bit of McGyvering to the MKII caliper mount arm.

 

 

Gary

Edited May 23, 2010 by dingy

[MiCarl]

If the free play in the rear pedal is too tight the relief hole in the master cylinder will not be open, keeping the fluid from returning to the reservoir when it expands from heat. That will apply the brakes, which heats the fluid more causing it to expand and apply the brakes even harder. It's a nasty cycle. (you get three guesses how I know this:big-grin-emoticon:, and the first two don't count).

 

Of course if the relief hole is plugged by 20 year old gunked up brake fluid it will cause the same symptoms.

 

You probably introduced air when you opened a banjo bolt - time to bleed them.

[Marcarl]

If the free play in the rear pedal is too tight the relief hole in the master cylinder will not be open, keeping the fluid from returning to the reservoir when it expands from heat. That will apply the brakes, which heats the fluid more causing it to expand and apply the brakes even harder. It's a nasty cycle. (you get three guesses how I know this:big-grin-emoticon:, and the first two don't count).

 

Of course if the relief hole is plugged by 20 year old gunked up brake fluid it will cause the same symptoms.

 

You probably introduced air when you opened a banjo bolt - time to bleed them.

Yep, that's my opinion, that weeee little hole would be plugged, if you can't see it when you take the master apart you haven't found it yet, so keep looking.

[Rocket]

If the free play in the rear pedal is too tight the relief hole in the master cylinder will not be open, keeping the fluid from returning to the reservoir when it expands from heat. That will apply the brakes, which heats the fluid more causing it to expand and apply the brakes even harder. It's a nasty cycle. (you get three guesses how I know this:big-grin-emoticon:, and the first two don't count).

 

Of course if the relief hole is plugged by 20 year old gunked up brake fluid it will cause the same symptoms.

 

You probably introduced air when you opened a banjo bolt - time to bleed them.

 

Yup, this is the place to initially start & then go deeper if needed. If not needed now, I would keep the caliper & MC rebuilds / change outs, for a later time like PMS.

 

Regardless, the bleeder screw should be done now, with its current problems.

 

[dingy]

Attached is a picture of the rear master and the two feed holes in it.

 

Gary