OddStar Posted May 20, 2010 #1 Posted May 20, 2010 I know this isn't the place to start this, but I'm casting the widest net for help. Decided to change fluid and added a speed bleeder to make the job easier. Every thing was going fine, nice new fluid flowing, and went to close the bleeder - and it broke off . Took slave cylinder out, drilled out and re-tapped so stock bleeder would fit. Now it won't hold pressure/close. Did I drill too deep? Looks like I'll need a new/used cylinder, unless the geniuses here have a solution. Any ideas???
dingy Posted May 20, 2010 #2 Posted May 20, 2010 The bottom of the bleeder screw hole has a tapered surface which matches the end of the bleeder screw. This surface must be very smooth in order to seal when the bleeder screw is tightened down against it. Gary
OddStar Posted May 20, 2010 Author #3 Posted May 20, 2010 Thx Gary, figured I must have drilled out that shoulder Should've gaged the depth. Just ordered a new assembly from Rick @ Buckeye. Oh well, $5 speedbleeder costs me $90!!!
Condor Posted May 20, 2010 #4 Posted May 20, 2010 Thx Gary, figured I must have drilled out that shoulder Should've gaged the depth. Just ordered a new assembly from Rick @ Buckeye. Oh well, $5 speedbleeder costs me $90!!! I don't understand?? Why couldn't you have just used an Easy-Out to remove the broken Speed Bleeder?? Never heard of a speed bleeder breaking before, but I guess if enough torque is applied anything will break.
BOO Posted May 21, 2010 #5 Posted May 21, 2010 Thx Gary, figured I must have drilled out that shoulder Should've gaged the depth. Just ordered a new assembly from Rick @ Buckeye. Oh well, $5 speedbleeder costs me $90!!! Should have waited, I have a used one that could probably be honed out and used, even have the repair kit. Oh well, BOO
OddStar Posted May 21, 2010 Author #6 Posted May 21, 2010 Should have waited, I have a used one that could probably be honed out and used, even have the repair kit. Oh well, BOO Thx Boo, but got impatient and wanted to be able to ride this weekend (since it's supposed to be really nice), so ordered before shipping cut off. Didn't realize you're so close by. Thinking I'll find somebody to fill the bleeder hole with aluminum and re-machine it, then I'd have a spare. Would that work? And to Condor; did try the ez out but it wouldn't budge - red loctite on the bugger really held it in.
dingy Posted May 21, 2010 #7 Posted May 21, 2010 Red Loctite needs to be heated before it will release. You don't want to use red on aluminum if you ever want to take it apart. Gary
BOO Posted May 21, 2010 #8 Posted May 21, 2010 Thx Boo, but got impatient and wanted to be able to ride this weekend (since it's supposed to be really nice), so ordered before shipping cut off. Didn't realize you're so close by. Thinking I'll find somebody to fill the bleeder hole with aluminum and re-machine it, then I'd have a spare. Would that work? And to Condor; did try the ez out but it wouldn't budge - red loctite on the bugger really held it in. Once I saw what the slave looked like I also got impatient and ordered one on line. The other point was I didn't want to have to do the job twice as it was a pain in the you know what. BOO
Condor Posted May 21, 2010 #9 Posted May 21, 2010 Red Loctite needs to be heated before it will release. You don't want to use red on aluminum if you ever want to take it apart. Gary And why would you want to make the Speed Bleeder so it can't be loosened?? That's how it operates....just like a regular bleeder, but with one way flow. Oh well... I'd suggest not doing it to the new one.
OddStar Posted May 21, 2010 Author #10 Posted May 21, 2010 The speed bleeders come with the red stuff already on them. Maybe somebody should tell them...
Condor Posted May 21, 2010 #11 Posted May 21, 2010 The speed bleeders come with the red stuff already on them. Maybe somebody should tell them... That stuff is like a teflon tape.... not Loc-Tite..... Don't think anybody needs to tell them anything...........
wes0778 Posted May 21, 2010 #12 Posted May 21, 2010 The speed bleeders come with the red stuff already on them. Maybe somebody should tell them... I could be wrong , but I think that red stuff is thread sealer, not thread lock...
OddStar Posted May 21, 2010 Author #13 Posted May 21, 2010 Seeing red I just ass-umed , but it still held tight. thx for straightening me out. Better get me a better set of ez outs.
dingy Posted May 21, 2010 #14 Posted May 21, 2010 FYI The recommended torque on the clutch bleeder screw is 4.3 ft/lbs. That is a very small torque setting. Gary
wes0778 Posted May 21, 2010 #15 Posted May 21, 2010 When I installed the speed bleeder in the clutch, on my RSV, I was concerned that I had cross threaded it, or the thread pitch was wrong, as it took way too much force to install it. I even backed it out twice. The ones for the brake wheel cylinders took nowhere near as much force to screw them in.
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