Intro and a few newbie questions

[saltcreep]

The weekend before last I won a 1992 Yamaha Venture Royale from Ebay. It is an ex-police bike with around 85k on the speedo. Wasn't supposed to run , but it did start up (just not very well) with a fresh battery. Had really old smelly gas in it.

 

The last motorcycle I had was a CB360 20+ years ago, and didn't do a lot of riding on it, it was a project as a kid also. This could probably be considered my 1st real motorcycle

 

The carb diaphragms were dry rotted with more like nail-holes than pin-holes in them. I ordered a set, but in the mean time fixed what I have with some rubber spray. They're pretty stiff but allow me to run it. I took off the carbs and cleaned them real well. Also fixed cold-solder joints in the TCI and moved it on to the airbox. I'm sure I will need to sync the carbs. I don't have a manometer yet though.

 

I changed the oil & coolant already.

 

Maintenance Items I know I should probably address:

 

I know I need to change the clutch & brake fluid out, and read somewhere about the drive-shaft grease. But I don't know what to use for this?

 

I am seeing references to the "pumpkin" is that the rear drive unit that the back wheel is mounted on? What oil do I need for this?

 

It seems a bit bouncy in the front and I think the forks have a bit of a leak so I'll order some seals for this. I have no clue what I am doing but I did see the info in the tech library on the forks.

 

I am not overly paranoid, but I will admit my ignorance on this stuff.. I can turn a wrench on an auto, but a lot of the motorcycle nuances I have no idea on so I ask am I missing areas that I need to address to make sure this is a safe cycle?

[Rocket]

Maintenance Items I know I should probably address:

 

I know I need to change the clutch & brake fluid out, and read somewhere about the drive-shaft grease. But I don't know what to use for this?

 

I am seeing references to the "pumpkin" is that the rear drive unit that the back wheel is mounted on? What oil do I need for this?

 

It seems a bit bouncy in the front and I think the forks have a bit of a leak so I'll order some seals for this. I have no clue what I am doing but I did see the info in the tech library on the forks.

 

I am not overly paranoid, but I will admit my ignorance on this stuff.. I can turn a wrench on an auto, but a lot of the motorcycle nuances I have no idea on so I ask am I missing areas that I need to address to make sure this is a safe cycle?

 

Some of us, use good grease with Moly in it.

 

Yup, the pumpkin is the rear end....

 

Look into putting progressive springs into it as well, the stock fork springs are cr*p.

 

[dingy]

For your drive shaft get some Honda Moly 60. If you have a Honda dealer they will have it. It is about $10.00 for a 3 oz tube.

 

In rear end (pumpkin) I used 80W-90 Valvoline synthetic oil. You will need less than a quart.

 

What air pressure are you running in front shocks? 8-10 should be good for solo rider.

 

If there is not an oil film on the exposed part of upper fork tubes, then you don't need seals. The seals do nothing to control the bounce. They just keep oil in tubes.

 

Welcome, And go to the User CP and put your bike info in so it shows up in the header of your post. Similar to mine where it says '1983 XVZ Hybrid Vmax 1300'. It helps people to help you when you have questions in the future.

 

Gary

[mini-muffin]

Don't hesitate to ask any questions. Besides if ya can wrench on a car you can figure out the bike with some help. I noticed you mentioned this is your first real bike, might want to sign up for a safety course.

 

Good luck with the bike and getting her running. I'm sure you'll really like it once you get some riding time on her.

 

Margaret

[Yammer Dan]

Don't hesitate to ask any questions. Besides if ya can wrench on a car you can figure out the bike with some help. I noticed you mentioned this is your first real bike, might want to sign up for a safety course.

 

Good luck with the bike and getting her running. I'm sure you'll really like it once you get some riding time on her.

 

Margaret

 

 

 

What Margaret said. And these things are very heavy. Slow speed handling is very different from what you had years ago. Find a big parking lot and practice, practice. If you len it too far it is gone you can not hold it. Learning that point is very interesting. But they are GREAT bikes when you get used to them. GOOD LUCK and WELCOME!!!

[saltcreep]

I've found a few drops of fork oil on the rim and the fork area is oily. The bike sat up for a couple of years I think, so the rubbery bits on it are going to give me fits probably. I've tried L/M/H settings on the front, the H seems to bounce less. It has never bottomed out in front or rear, just seems bouncy, but I have nothing to compare it to

 

I bought the video Ride like a Pro V , saw it recommended on here and started watching it last night.

 

I have about 140 miles on it so far, just toodling around on the back roads.

Biggest difficulty thus far has been smoothly starting off, but it was running on 3-cylinders and carbs gunked, bad diaphragm so that might have had some effect. Having a hard time making myself ride the clutch, I am so used to the auto mindset that riding the clutch is bad.

 

I do plan on taking the MSF course.

 

PS: Thank you

[Yammer Dan]

Sounds like you are off to a good start. Be careful!!

[dingy]

Sounds like you are off to a good start. Be careful!!

 

 

Yammer, I can not believe you didn't say to seafoam it.

 

What's up, sell your stock in seafoam?

 

Gary

[Guest seuadr]

huh. police edition. interesting.

 

i would highly recommend rebuilding both your masters on the handlebars, and the rear master cylinder. I would also highly recommend replacing the brake and clutch lines. Flush all the brake fluid and clutch fluid (which is also dot 3 brake fluid), and rebuild all three calipers. as you say, the rubber bits will give you fits, and when it comes to brakes, its your life on the line.

 

just my

[Pappa Bear]

Could you imagine the cops riding one of those, no use running just go ahead and pull over!!!

[Brake Pad]

Could you imagine the cops riding one of those, no use running just go ahead and pull over!!!

 

and laugh your butt, off:stirthepot:

[mother]

in regards to the front forks, i would drain out the old fork oil, refill, ride and see if the seals are leaking. you said the forks seem bouncy, so i would try this first. there is a little phillips screw at the bottom of the fork leg on the front or on the back side, i forget at the moment. do one at a time and see how much fork oil comes out of each leg. when i bought mine, i got 50 cc out of one and 180 out of the other. they are both supposed to have 200 cc in each. to refill, at the top of the fork, remove the rubber cap, remove the aluminum cap which has an o-ring on it. measure the new fork oil and refill each tube and carefully install the aluminum cap so not to cross thread it when reinstalling. then get on and ride it and see if the upper seals are leaking.

 

if you can afford, as previously mentioned the progressive springs for the front forks are a great improvement in front end smoothness.

 

as far as the carbs, new diaphrams and run Seafoam treatment mixture with a tank of gas. do that a couple of times and the carbs should clear up. i had engine flat spots at different rpms and Seafoam treatments made it run like new without tearing the carbs apart. then find someone in your area to adjust the carbs, lots of members with manometers.

 

as previously mentioned, check your brakes, make sure the pistons are moving freely on all calipers. a great upgrade is to the R1 calipers, which have slightly bigger pistons and they are a must do upgrade at some point. they are awesome. they bolt right in place.

 

keep your questions coming, we have answers.

 

cheers, Scott

[6m459]

Hi,

 

Suggest you give serious consideration to replacing the original fuse box, which is a piece of absolute shyte!

 

Here is a post I did some time ago on how I have done the replacement on my bikes.

 

Some folks on this board sell kits for doing this which is another option.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Nice looking bike BTW!

 

Brian H.

[Yammer Dan]

Yammer, I can not believe you didn't say to seafoam it.

 

What's up, sell your stock in seafoam?

 

Gary

 

 

 

I FORGOT!! And Mother beat me to it!!

 

BUT SEA-Foam it!!! This is great stuff and might well save you a carb tear-down.

[saltcreep]

Thanks guys.

I do hate that little fuse box... this is a '92. Why Yamaha would have something like that on a bike in the 90's makes no sense to me. That one is sweet looking.

 

No cycle shops in this small town I live in, so I'll order some fork oil. Thanks for the tip, I'll order some today.

 

I'll go ahead and order the parts for the brakes while I have the rear wheel off to grease the drive-shaft it would be easier then. I googled R1 calibers...they don't give those away.

 

I am a strong believer in sea-foam, it got the full treatment But I did tear each carb down already and cleaned the jets.

 

I am getting a bit of a fuel smell now, but the diaphragms are very stiff with the rubber crap I sprayed on them, hoping the new ones when they come in will fix this. I don't know if they could be related to this or not

Edited May 13, 2010 by saltcreep

[dingy]

Thanks guys.

I do hate that little fuse box... this is a '92. Why Yamaha would have something like that on a bike in the 90's makes no sense to me. That one is sweet looking.

 

 

 

They are still putting a cassette player in the RSV's last I heard.

 

Gary

[camos]

in regards to the front forks, i would drain out the old fork oil, refill, ride ...

One often forgotten thing to do after draining the fork oil the very first time is to put a cup of mineral spirits in each fork, work it a bit then drain and fill. Old fork oil can block the little ports in the leg.

[saltcreep]

I pulled all 4 spark plugs tonight to make sure they are all firing, for some reason my timing light wouldn't pick up anything, it might be busted.

 

the 2 spark plugs on the right are black and wet (rich), the 2 on the left are white (normal)

 

Why would it run rich on one side and not the other?

 

I'm still waiting on my diaphragms to get here.. but I tinker with it at least a bit every day and put a few more miles on her... God I love this stuff.

[Guest seuadr]

I'll go ahead and order the parts for the brakes while I have the rear wheel off to grease the drive-shaft it would be easier then. I googled R1 calibers...they don't give those away.

 

it's true, they aren't dirt cheap, however, if you watch ebay you can pick them up pretty cheap. i've seen them go as low as 25 dollars and average 35-40 dollars each.

 

given that the rebuild kit for your existing calipers runs around that it's a personal choice.

 

myself, i went with skydoc 17

s kit that upgraded to all new stainless steel lines all around, all new r1 calipers, a delink kit for the front/rear brake and EBC HH pads. for me, being able to stop this old girl on a moments notice is worth it. it was not cheap, but he definitally is cheap compared to similar kits on Ebay, and he gives a heafty VR.org discount.

 

my brakes went from stop alright to "i could do stoppies if i had the minerals for that sort of thing" already saved me once when someone pulled out infront of me with less than a car length(thank GOD no one was behind me!)

 

could be rather than running rich on one bank that your carbs are far enough out of sync you aren't getting a good burn on one side. or related to your slides. sync'em up and run some seafoam through'em and check the plugs again after a few miles, imho.

[saltcreep]

What would be the reason to rebuild the calibers, if they are not frozen in place or leaking any why would you rebuild them? The braking on these things seems so simple, I don't see how you could have a sudden total failure, except for a brake-line failure.

 

I am not at all trying to be a smart-butt or anything, trying to learn how to maintain this

beast, I just am not understanding why I would rebuild the calibers when they seem to be functioning fine and no leaks? Is this something on motorcycles you do every now and then as preventative maintenance? Seriously, I am pretty clueless.

 

Thank you very much for your help.

 

I am going to scout around for a manometer so I can synch the carbs, that is what I was kind of thinking... maybe the right side is opening later than the left and not burning as well?

[Poledar]

Hey, Saltcreep! Welcome to the friendliest club ever...no meetings to attend, just nice people to meet and eat with...oh, yes, we ride now and then too!

Glad to have you aboard!

 

POLEDAR:fatsmiley:

[Poledar]

We have a member named Sky Doc who has a fuse box upgrade and right now he is laid up, but he might have one ready to go. Simple install and major improvement on the el cheapo that Yamaha originally supplied.

 

POLEDAR:detective:

[bongobobny]

As far as why rebuild calipers, well, how well do you trust 20+ year old seals???

[Guest seuadr]

As far as why rebuild calipers, well, how well do you trust 20+ year old seals???

pretty much this.

 

as i see it, and, this is just a personal preference, mind you, the brakes are pretty much the number one line of defence in most emergency situations. it's the first thing that almost everyone thinks is "STOP!". For me, having brake lines i know aren't going to fail, and calipers that i have personally inspected and rebuilt with new seals and made sure that the pistons aren't pitted, etc is pretty cheap insurance.

 

quite a few people don't fix something till it breaks. it stands to reason, afterall. But imagine that it broke when you needed it most? just my view on it. now, there are quite possibly guys who've put hundreds of thousands of miles on their calipers without a thought and never had a problem.. but i'm not willing to take a chance like that when it is something i can address in an afternoon and then i will know that i've done all i can to insure my emergency braking ability.

 

i think of it as preventative maintence.

[saltcreep]

Thank you again sir.

 

When you first mentioned R1 calipers, I didn't know what you meant, I googled r1 calipers and found lots of things for $$$$'s.

 

I found the older threads on switching to the YZF-R1 calipers and that looks like the way to go. I see the light now.. thanks!