Deacon Posted May 7, 2010 #1 Posted May 7, 2010 Ok folks, I need some help.. I just got my set of passenger Highway pegs from Diamond R Accessories for the Misses.. I attemped to remove the rear Hex screw and ended up stripping the head, so I got out my "easy outs". Well the heads of the factory screws are pretty soft and the easy out just ate into it.. Ok now I'm getting a bit pissed off so I get a extractor bit and drilled a pilot hole and try it.. NO LUCK !! My question is, wha't my next course of attack ?? Thanks 06 RSTD
SilvrT Posted May 7, 2010 #2 Posted May 7, 2010 Ok folks, I need some help.. I just got my set of passenger Highway pegs from Diamond R Accessories for the Misses.. I attemped to remove the rear Hex screw and ended up stripping the head, so I got out my "easy outs". Well the heads of the factory screws are pretty soft and the easy out just ate into it.. Ok now I'm getting a bit pissed off so I get a extractor bit and drilled a pilot hole and try it.. NO LUCK !! My question is, wha't my next course of attack ?? Thanks 06 RSTD Could you drill a bigger hole and use a bigger extractor? How about drilling right thru the hex screw with as large of a bit as possible, leaving not much more than the threads themselves... then you might be able to "work" the remainder out somehow.... I dunno... just throwing this out there.
Deacon Posted May 7, 2010 Author #3 Posted May 7, 2010 Thanks silvrT ! I thought about drilling it out but I didn't want to "screw" up the threads. That being said, I guess it could be re-tapped ? This is sounding like I should leave this up to the experts.. Anybody had this problem before? If so how did you solve it ? Deacon 06 RSTD
straycatt Posted May 8, 2010 #4 Posted May 8, 2010 Drill out and then run in a tap the same size as the original bolt to dress the threads a little. This requires a fairly accurately placed drill to begin with. If your hole is not centered on the old hole, then you'll wind up drilling a larger hole and going to a larger tap and replacement bolt. Broken/stripped bolts are NEVER any fun to fix.
BOO Posted May 8, 2010 #5 Posted May 8, 2010 Thanks silvrT ! I thought about drilling it out but I didn't want to "screw" up the threads. That being said, I guess it could be re-tapped ? This is sounding like I should leave this up to the experts.. Anybody had this problem before? If so how did you solve it ? Deacon 06 RSTD Maybe the threads are already screwed up (crossed threaded) and that's why you can't get the screw out. I really like the allen heads because they are so easy to get out. Maybe you had the wrong size wrench, maybe sae instead of metric. I know I know this isn't helping to get the screw out. If you can't get the screw out with the easy outs then you probably will need to drill and re tap the hole. Sometimes you are better off and faster to just go that route once it obvious the screw ain't coming out. Also a little heat helps sometimes but don't burn the chrome. BOO
ibents Posted May 8, 2010 #6 Posted May 8, 2010 Have you thought about using a left hand drill some times the screw will come out as its being drilled, we used these often when I was working. Just an idea. Ian
dingy Posted May 8, 2010 #7 Posted May 8, 2010 If there is nothing behind the bolt, meaning you can drill all the way through, here is an idea. As previously suggested, drill a hole as close to center as possible, which you already have done obviously. Enlarge this hole to as big as possible without engaging tapped threads. I have successfully used a very small 3 corner file, to the file a notch down through the bolt portion of the threads. Do this in two places about 90 degrees apart. Then with a small chisel, knock out the smaller piece. Then the remaining 270 degree piece can be bent in a little to loosen and work it out. This method will cause problems if the bolt is of a sealing nature, because it will leak through the 2 notches that are cut into tapped hole. But otherwise it is a workable solution upon occasion. Gary
wes0778 Posted May 8, 2010 #8 Posted May 8, 2010 (edited) If you use a drill bit just a little larger than the bolt head, could you not drill down just to the shank of the bolt and then slip the parts off and grab what's left sticking up with Vise Grips or a pipe wrench? Also, be very careful if you decide to try drilling a hole completely through the shank of the bolt to get as close to centered as you can. If you don't and leave a "half moon" shaped piece of threads in the hole, it can and most likely will turn and lock your ez-out or tap. THEN you really ARE in trouble! Edited May 8, 2010 by wes0778 spelling
LilBeaver Posted May 8, 2010 #9 Posted May 8, 2010 If you use a drill bit just a little larger than the bolt head, could you not drill down just to the shank of the bolt and then slip the parts off and grab what's left sticking up with Vise Grips or a pipe wrench? ... +1 to this Also, with these silly soft yamaha bolts, don't waste your money or time with the extractors. A set of left-handed drill bits has been very successful for me with the few I've dealt with on my bike. But as others have already said, make sure you are careful to get that puppy centered. Also, some have mentioned having good luck with a sharpened torx bit, pounding it into the head of the bolt and using that to back it out. Or welding a stud to the bolt... Hope it 'works out' for you!!
Condor Posted May 8, 2010 #10 Posted May 8, 2010 I've always had good results drilling the head of the hex off, removing the bracket and then using a stud remover to get the remainder of the hex out. I had the same problem removing the hex screw holding on the clutch slave... that's why I own a set of the stud removers in the first place.... The set I picked up is more like a set of sockets with internal rods that bind on the stud as it backed out. Due to the limited space to work in, the traditional removers like those found at Harbor Freight, I had to search around to find something that would work. Here's a LINK I don't need it a lot, but when I do it's been a great time saver...
Deacon Posted May 8, 2010 Author #11 Posted May 8, 2010 Thanks all Can always depend on folks from this site to pitch in and help I'm going to try the drill and tap procedure out today and let everyone know the outcome.. I beleive worse case senario would be that I'll need to go to a bigger screw.. Thanks all 06 RSTD
Deacon Posted May 10, 2010 Author #12 Posted May 10, 2010 Good news folks ! I was able the get one of the "stripped Hex screws" out by cutting off the head with a dremal, applying some heat and then working "hard" with sears easy-out.. The othe screw decided that it wasn't "going out that way".. So I ended up using 1/4" colbalt drill bit with a 8mm-1.25 tap to get that one out
1BigDog Posted May 20, 2010 #13 Posted May 20, 2010 I had the same problem with mine. I just cut a slot in the head with a dremel and used an impact driver on it. Worked fine for me.
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