Side stand bolt solution

[dingy]

This is in response to snaggletooth's post earlier about his side stand bolt breaking.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=48307

 

I started a new thread so people might look at it that had already viewed his.

 

As was noted in previous post, the undercut on the shoulder bolt is deep.

 

The threads are 10 mm on the shoulder bolt and the undercut is about 7.90 mm. This is about 20% of the bolts threaded diameter that has been removed. The shoulder portion of the bolt is 12 mm.

 

I used a grade 10.9, 12 mm x 1.75 mm x 60 mm long partially threaded hex head bolt, a grade 10.9 hex head nut and a standard grade jam nut (hardware didn't have grade 10.9 jam nuts).Grade 10.9 metric is very close to an imperial grade 8. The hardware store had 12 mm x 1.50 mm bolts, but the unthreaded portion was a smaller diameter than the 1.75 mm. I would have rather had the finer threads.

I used the 60 mm length because the unthreaded portion of this bolt was just the length that was required to pass through the front and back wings of the side stand. I did not want threads in that area, due to the threads would quickly wear down in diameter and increase play in side stand.

 

The shoulder on the hex bolt measured 11.50 mm, just slightly smaller than the existing shoulder bolt by about .005".

 

I cut the shoulder bolt to roughly 45 mm (1.75") long.

 

Then drilled out the threaded portion of the kickstand with a 15/32" drill. This gave a very snug fit for the unthreaded portion of the new bolt. The drilled hole in the back wing is still a smaller diameter than the existing hole in the front wing of the side stand, so I do not feel it weakened the overall assembly.

 

Replaced the side stand. I used blue loctite on threads. Tightened hardened hex bolt up until there was minimal play in the end of side stand, then ran jam nut up against hex nut.

 

Cost was under $5.00 and took less than an hour including parts run.

 

 

 

Comparison of new bolt & existing shoulder bolt.

 

 

Back wing of side stand prior to drilling

 

 

Stack-up of new fasteners after cutting hex bolt to length.

 

Picture of side stand prior to spring being reinstalled.

 

Gary

Edited May 18, 2018 by Freebird
added paragraph about bolt length selection

[Flyinfool]

I like it.

 

KISS written all over it.

 

Off to the hardware store we go.

[Snaggletooth]

Nice fix Gary. That eliminates the weakest spot on the whole assembly. Drilling out the threaded backside of the flange would leave about the same material as on the smooth bore side so not much loss.

 

Back to the shop! At least it's the cheapest fix I've had for a while.......so far.

Thanks

 

Mike

[Stanman]

My bolt is still tight but that is almost exactly the same fix I had in mind, except I was thinking about using a 1/2 inch, grade 8 fine thread bolt instead.

[Yammer Dan]

Good one Gary. My 86 was just replaced but I think "Ugly" is about due.

[Blue Giant]

That's a great fix! Thanks for posting it for us!

[Pappa Bear]

Thanks for the direction, just finished mine and it is once again nice and snug! Thats a load off my mind not wondering about having her over on the kickstand!

[jasonm.]

I know somoeone who did the same . BUT tapped the stand to match the new bolt. And had the shoulder the perfect length by using a die. So only one lock nut needed ...like OEM.

[Eck]

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48373

 

 

......I tried to warn everyone, yet not one response.. I tried...

[BrileyR]

While dropping the exhaust collector, (which still isn't done :-( ) I noticed my side stand was loose. I just did this bolt mod, and it is much tighter.

 

Thanks for this tip.

 

Briley.

[bongobobny]

If I recall right, we did an emergency repair on Mother's scoot, his bolt broke in my driveway. All we did is replace the bolt with the right size thread and length and then McGuiver'ed a collar using aluminum tube stock cut to length. To my knowledge it's still holding, but your fix is slick too!!

[dingy]

Bumping this one up. All you 1st genners should check yous side stand bolt for excessive looseness. If it is loose, first post shows a good way to fix it.

 

Gary

[Santa Hal]

http://f1815.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=1%5f556632%5fAHbVimIAAHeJT4MpGws8cXuCna4&pid=2&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailClassichttp://f1815.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=1%5f556632%5fAHbVimIAAHeJT4MpGws8cXuCna4&pid=2&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailClassic

 

Good one Gary.

[dingy]

Another 1st gen side stand fix bump.

 

Gary

[mralex714]

Never thought to check this or that it would be an issue. I will check it today.

[timgray]

I remove mine every spring during maintaince. Remove , clean the whole area, relube with dry lube (I like using a silicone+graphite dry lube and then reassemble. I then will relube with a spray of the dry lube at every washing.

 

I live near lake michigan and ride along it a lot. if I did not do this I'd lose a kickstand bolt every year due to the sand that get's in there and will wear things out.

[Jayceesfolly]

I did this modification to my kickstand (thank you Gary) and could not find a local store with metric bolts, so I ordered the bolts and nuts from McMaster-Carr. The minimum quantity that I could order was 10 bolts and nuts, so I have 9 extra bolts and nuts left over from this conversion.

 

I am giving away the 9 leftover bolts and the two nuts to anyone who wants a set. I will be at Don's MD on Saturday and will give them to the first 9 people that see me there or contact me.

 

Gary's solution for the long standing (pun intended!) problem with broken bolts is gone. The conversion was easy and works great. My kickstand is nice and solid and there is no movement or play in the stand.

 

Great solution, Gary. Thanks.

 

Jim

[dingy]

Bump

[syscrusher]

Bump

 

I like your solution Dingy, thanks for the bump.

I was going to replace the broken bolt with another very hard shoulder bolt but it also thins down where the threads are.

I bought a 1/2" grade 8 bolt which meant I had to drill the frame dropout but the difference between 12mm (0.472) and .5 inches is less than .03 inches so no big loss.

Going SAE I was able to buy the metal locknuts for the project and it was all less expensive than metric.

 

Of course when the tab is already broken off of the stand not welding isn't an option.

They say "Go big or go home." but once I got it home I didn't want to stay there so I did a little welding and a lot of grinding.

I made it really big but then I probably ground off just slightly more than I absolutely had to to fit in the recess allowed for it's movement.

I had some confusion as to which part of it wasn't fitting for a little bit.

I didn't want this to ever happen again as one might assume from looking at my elbow.

I had been thinking that the bottom of it was bending and I wanted to prevent that so it now has a little extra bracing there too.

 

 

I wish there was a list somewhere on the site of all of these "GOTCHAS" that have been sorted out from experience.

Something like a safety mod checklist to save others the pain of learning about this the hard way first.