kkent66 Posted May 7, 2010 #1 Posted May 7, 2010 Noticed the other day my ignition switch was very hot at the end of a ride. When I pulled my key out the key was very hot to the touch. I don’t have passing lamps and have never had this problem. Any thoughts?
massey130 Posted May 7, 2010 #2 Posted May 7, 2010 no help here, but it made me wonder. i never check mine and i don't check the key for heat either. I will though on the next ride to see how much heat it does/doesn't make.
massey130 Posted May 7, 2010 #3 Posted May 7, 2010 after thinking a bit more, the ignition is right above the radiator. if you are overheating, the heat will rise and heat that part of the bike. check your cooland fluid level. check under the seat first for the overflow reservoir. if empty, pull the gas tank and add coolant mixture to the radiator. oh yea, fill the overflow reservoir to the appropriate level, too.
dingy Posted May 7, 2010 #4 Posted May 7, 2010 Attached is a write up I did describing relays & wiring as it pertains to our bikes. On the last two pages there are two schematics for bypassing most of the current that is running through the main switch on an RSV. One is a before & second is an after version. File is 1.5 meg in size. Gary
sarges46 Posted May 7, 2010 #5 Posted May 7, 2010 Thats a good thought about the rad. But I wouldnt think it would get so hot thats its too hot to touch. Bike should be still under warranty...maybe take it in and tell you think the switch is going south, cause that is what it sounds like to me. (but wadda I know)
V7Goose Posted May 7, 2010 #6 Posted May 7, 2010 A hot key is a potentially bad situation - it should never happen. The only cause for heat in the switch is resistance in the contacts, which means the switch is in the checkout lane. You can verify the problem by using the schematic and an ohm meter - disconnect the two plugs to the switch and ohm out each circuit, based on the key position. Of course, the problem you have is with the switch in ON. Closed contacts measured from the plugs should read zero ohms. Anything other than zero, even one or two ohms, is a problem and will generate lots of heat. No use spraying any cleaner in the key hole - the key tumblers are physically isolated from the switches. If you want to try and fix it, you will have to dismantle the switch section on the bottom. I have never had the ignition switch off these bikes, so I cannot help with any guidance there. Goose
ibents Posted May 8, 2010 #7 Posted May 8, 2010 Check out this thread, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34957 Ian
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