oldgoat Posted May 1, 2010 #1 Posted May 1, 2010 ok calll me dumb if ya want but is the idle screw the one with the spring on it. that holds the throtle cam down by the carbs. i pulled off the side covers and saw this was hardley touching so i tries to turn it but it killed the bike turning it in? any help i would be gratefull. im about 98.9 % there on this bike i just know i can get there
Snaggletooth Posted May 1, 2010 #2 Posted May 1, 2010 Not sure which screw you are talking about but the idle adjustment is behind the bracket that holds the carb bodies together on the left side of the bike between the carb bodies. It points downward and is a round, knobby thumbscrew about the size of a dime. There are two screws at the rear of the carbs that have springs on them that are for adjusting the sync of the carbs. Changing one of them could affect the bike enough to kill the engine. Mike
oldgoat Posted May 1, 2010 Author #3 Posted May 1, 2010 thanks i found it and gave it a little turn bike now idles at 1000 rpms with no choke. im happy now. and the one i was talking about is on the left side and holds the throtle cables up on side of carbs it was just about to shake off i turned it 2 and 1/4 turns. bike responds better now??? also pulled the air filter off and looked in side of box and spoted oil residue just after a fresh oil change?? now if i recall skydock or someone makes something to modify and get rid of the damn tube wich is a royal pain in the butt to get back on. crankcase tube is it? you know im wrenching on this and starting to enjoy some of the fruits of my labor. now to get a crab sync and ok one more question on the rear master cylinder i cant reach the top screws to remove cover but saw a plug on the side i opened it and there is verry little brake fluid in there is it possible to pour fluid in the master that way through that plug? as the screws on the master are rusted and one looks rounded once again thanks as you can see im bored and its going to rain so im just farting around with stuff. i know i got good pepole here who help or will tell me jim leave it alone to maintenance day LOL
Snaggletooth Posted May 1, 2010 #4 Posted May 1, 2010 (edited) Cool.....glad that worked for ya. As far as the oil in the airbox......Do check your oil level in the sight glass with the bike on the center stand and level. Make sure it is only half way up the glass. Any higher than that and it will suck oil into the air box. It's a thing with these bikes. They all do it. There are two hoses on the bottom of the airbox. The big one....that runs between the carbs and to the "twinkie" on the crank case. There is another smaller one that attaches to the front bottom of the air box that should run towards the fornt left down tube and then on to below the frame. It has a small valve in it towards the bottom. The hose is the drain from the box. Any oil that builds up will drain through that. And Skydoc_17 does have a mod to eliminate that bigger hose. It's listed in the classifieds. Most guys do it to eliminate the fight to get the dang hose back on. It's a bugger until you figure it out. If you go that route just cap off the two ports on the bottom of the box. As far as the rear master......you're cool. You got the plug out without breaking the body. It happens. I use a ...don't laugh.....a flavor injector for shooting up the old birds to fill the rear master. Grind the end off so you don't have a point and it's a clean fill. Now a word of advice. Fill it up......not all the way! If you think you have too much fluid in it crack open the rear caliper bleeder and bleed some out. These bikes do tend to warm up the rear master. If it gets hot the fluid expands and the brakes (rear first and then the front left) will start to drag, even lock up. That does damage to the pads and can warp the rotor. Not to mention it's no fun to ride like that. As long as your are at it.....just bleed out all the brakes and get some fresh fluid into the system. Clutch to. I bought my bike as a non runner three years ago. Spent the first winter going through it. After two seasons of riding and the winter tear downs to fix, repair, replace, fabricate or rebuild.....this is my summer to ride trouble free. I think I can take next winter off this year. Nuttin left to fix. Did I say that out loud? Ah crap. Jinx! Good luck. Mike Edited May 2, 2010 by Snaggletooth
Scooter Bob Posted May 1, 2010 #5 Posted May 1, 2010 I think I can take next winter off this year. Nuttin left to fix. Did I say that out loud? Ah crap. Jinx! :eek:Mike Yes you did. Here you go, knock on this... http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/a/a6/Timber_DonnellyMills2005_SeanMcClean.jpg/250px-Timber_DonnellyMills2005_SeanMcClean.jpg Later, Scooter Bob
oldgoat Posted May 2, 2010 Author #6 Posted May 2, 2010 wow looks like someone is in for some serious log splitting. man i dont miss them days. but allways loved that wood smoke smell.
skydoc_17 Posted May 2, 2010 #7 Posted May 2, 2010 Hey James, Here is the link to the Crankcase Vent Filter: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2333&title=first-gen281983-1993-29-crankcase-vent-filter-upgrade&cat=6 Earl:thumbsup2:
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