E-Fishin-C Posted May 1, 2010 #1 Posted May 1, 2010 When I was young :rotfl:I could remember my dad saying your engine is not broken in until you reach 60,000 miles and then you other bikers say geez you r scoot bearly broken with 55,000 miles. So you smart A**** out there, when is an engine broken in And What is broken in (the rings settling in I guess)
Scooter Bob Posted May 1, 2010 #2 Posted May 1, 2010 Fuel milage seemed to go up quite a bit around 40k. That's when I thought mine got "broken in". Later, Scooter Bob
hipshot Posted May 1, 2010 #3 Posted May 1, 2010 Charlie, if you have to ask questions like this, it's time for you to " voluntarily "turn in your operator's license". take up a new hobby, like fishing or something! TELL him Squid! lol just jt
E-Fishin-C Posted May 1, 2010 Author #4 Posted May 1, 2010 Charlie, if you have to ask questions like this, it's time for you to " voluntarily "turn in your operator's license". take up a new hobby, like fishing or something! TELL him Squid! lol just jt Can't answer my question ...EH!!!!!
hipshot Posted May 1, 2010 #5 Posted May 1, 2010 i recon a "butt kick", is better than being totally ignored! love ya my friend. just jt
buddy Posted May 1, 2010 #6 Posted May 1, 2010 Ever since you got the Second Gen. you been a pain in the rear....... I take that back your already a pain in the rear...... Break in period? Hard to say...everybody rides their bike different so its hard to say really. Always been told, its not hard for these motors reaching 100,000 miles. And when you reach 200,000 miles then you can start bragging because you know you can ride across country with no worries..... They call them "The bullet proof motor" for a reason.......
scotty Posted May 1, 2010 #7 Posted May 1, 2010 differant engine I realize but.. Break in procedure for deutz diesel engine, as best as I can remember. 15 min 25% load 5 min high idol 15 min 50% load 5 min high idol 15 min 75% load 5 min high idol 10 min 100% 5 min high idol 5 min low idol
saddlebum Posted May 1, 2010 #8 Posted May 1, 2010 Best way to break in an engine is to vary the speed. loading it up a little as you accelerate. Loading it up forces the rings out so they hone in nicely. Too light on the throttle. holding a steady cruising speed or babying it lets the rings just glide over the surface and they won't seat properly.
massey130 Posted May 1, 2010 #9 Posted May 1, 2010 Best way to break in an engine is to vary the speed. loading it up a little as you accelerate. Loading it up forces the rings out so they hone in nicely. Too light on the throttle. holding a steady cruising speed or babying it lets the rings just glide over the surface and they won't seat properly. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ and you do this for how many miles?
Wanderer Posted May 1, 2010 #10 Posted May 1, 2010 I know this has nothing to do with the actual, original question, but thought this very interesting.
jer878 Posted May 1, 2010 #11 Posted May 1, 2010 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ and you do this for how many miles? I've been doing it for 16,000 miles so far. Loading it up that is. There is no grey, it a black or white issue. Full throttle or no throttle!
Yammer Dan Posted May 1, 2010 #12 Posted May 1, 2010 Seems like I remember my Uncle telling me 100 miles with running it like you stole it. Always done that. He claimed baby it and the rings wouldn't seat. Would let rebuilt ones start and idle few times then just drive them as you always would but make sure you kicked them at wide open throttle a few times. This seemed to work.
Snarley Bill Posted May 1, 2010 #13 Posted May 1, 2010 here's the high tech side. i've had lots of bike and car motors apart with different mileage on them. during the machining process, finish grinding that is, on all the major internal parts, there are billions of fine microscopic grooves left in the surface of the metal. the peaks of these grooves are often times razor sharp. they must be worn off to match the apposing part. this match must be a smooth operation which basically laps the two parts to become the smooth final match they will have for the life of the motor. the run it like you stole it theory is not the way to get the perfect surface on both parts. not putting enough pressure on the two surfaces is also not good as they have to have to have some contact to wear the peaks off the grooves. we want to lightly wear the peaks off not gouge them off. minute metal particles in the oil from the break in proccess help to properly wear these surfaces off. changing the break in oil to soon will hinder or ruin the break in process as these particals act as lapping compound. here is the way i break in my new motors. never lug or idle a new motor to slow. the first 50 miles is the most critcal for getting the rings seated. i keep the revs up during the break in period and climb alot of hills the first 50 miles to load the piston rings for a good seat. i vary the rpms between 2200 and 3500 whille loading the engine off and on to build pressure behind the rings. the next thing to work on is piston skirts and bearings. always keep the revs up and don,t lug the engine, varing rpms so the moving parts will match at different rpms. after the first 100 miles i start running the revs higher at low loads to 4500 rpms or more for short spurts. after 600 mile you can ream it out a little once in awhile and change out the break in oil. to totally wear the engine in can take as much as 25,000 miles. the more often you change the oil the longer it takes. after you break an engine in like this, and take it apart it sure looks pretty inside. on race motors they often do this break in on a dino. race motors have a much finer and more precision maching process so the parts fit much better from the git go. also race motors aren't built for high mile engine life. they are machined for the least amount of friction and maximum horse power, so don't think you can break your motor in like a race motor. two totally different worlds. i think i will head out now to put some good break in mile on my nomad. well it is already broke in. one last comment. high viscosity oil is not good for a higher rpm motor. the bearing tolerances on these new motors runs around .0015" the oil has to squeese through this to make it to the piston and rings. thick oil will starve the piston and rings of their life blood. i try to stay with 10w-30 on my short stroke high rpm motors like my zx-14 and wing, and i run 5w 0r 10w-40 rotella in my v-twins. i never run the revs up till the motor is totally warmed up and the oil can circulate freely. hope this info helps. bill
Marcarl Posted May 1, 2010 #14 Posted May 1, 2010 If you are really worried about when your engine is broke in, just bring it down here, and let me at it,,, for an engine is much the same as a women, they both need to be treated right, right from the start, and some good experience is really helpful here. Now I know that your engine already has some miles on it,,, so it is a bit used,,,, that takes some more expertise, I not sure I have it, but for you,,, and just for you, I would be willing to give it a go. It will probably only take a few hours,,,, if you drop it off the first of the week, with any luck at all, you should be able to come back and pick it up by the weekend.
Sleeperhawk Posted May 1, 2010 #16 Posted May 1, 2010 It is broke in when your Trade/Sell your bike off. Means you got tired of her, I meant the bike not the wife. :rotf:
Oldslow Posted May 1, 2010 #17 Posted May 1, 2010 I know this has nothing to do with the actual, original question, but thought this very interesting. I followed that with my first new bike I bought 6 years ago. Ran fine!
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