fog/driving lights

[armyvet]

Hello all. New to the site so be kind.

I'm looking to mount kuryakyn driving lights to the fender of my 06 venture. My question is will the electrical system handle the addition of two 35 watt bulbs ? I'm also looking to change the bulbs to yellow; unfortunately they only sell yellow H3 bulbs in 55 watts. Will the system handle the two 55 watt bulbs? The only additions to the system that I have are the OEM passing lights and a GPS, although I don't think the GPS is a major issue.

[Eck]

I would say yes to both your questions provided you run your 2nd set of fender driving lights on a totally different circuit with an inline fuse and a relay.

 

I personally would also install a separate on/off switch so I could turn them off in the case I added OTHER electronic accessories..(heated clothing, grip warmers etc)...I would turn them off when running the other added items, so not to over tax the alternator.

[armyvet]

Eck.

Thanks, I plan to run the hot straight to the battery with an inline fuse and mount a toggle switch on the dash.

[puppy]

You probably do not want to just run a switch and a fuse. It would be strongly recommended to use a relay.

[bongobobny]

Yes, relay is the way to go!

 

The stock stator should handle the load, but if you have any reservations contact Rick at Buckeye Performance and buy one of their high output stators. Just don't forget to order the cover gasket as well..

[RandyR]

I think you may be pushing it to run both a pair of 35w passing lamps and a pair of 50w fog lamps.

[V7Goose]

Unfortunately, this bike does not have much extra charging capacity, so be careful. You can certainly run two 35W bulbs in place of the stock 30W driving lights, but not WITH them. You cannot replace the stock 30W bulbs with 55W without shortening the life of your battery, and you absolutely CANNOT run two 55W bulbs concurrently with the stock driving lights.

 

I strongly urge you to get a decent voltmeter and install it on the bike before you make any changes to the lighting. By decent, I mean any digital meter or analog meter with such gradations that you can easily see the difference between 11, 12, 13 and 14 volts. Do not waste your money on any of the LED indicators that simply use multicolored lights to entertain you. I personally like the 5 Function digital meter you can find at places like http://www.casporttouring.com.

Goose

[armyvet]

Would a 12 volt relay cover it?

[KeithR]

Bill

 

Have a look at these....

 

http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=1

 

 

Keith

[wes0778]

Unfortunately, this bike does not have much extra charging capacity, so be careful. You can certainly run two 35W bulbs in place of the stock 30W driving lights, but not WITH them. You cannot replace the stock 30W bulbs with 55W without shortening the life of your battery, and you absolutely CANNOT run two 55W bulbs concurrently with the stock driving lights.

 

I strongly urge you to get a decent voltmeter and install it on the bike before you make any changes to the lighting. By decent, I mean any digital meter or analog meter with such gradations that you can easily see the difference between 11, 12, 13 and 14 volts. Do not waste your money on any of the LED indicators that simply use multicolored lights to entertain you. I personally like the 5 Function digital meter you can find at places like www.casporttouring.com.

Goose

 

My thoughts are IF you already have passing lights on the bike, I'd add a SPDT (single pole double throw) relay in the circuit and a SPST (single pole single throw) manual switch to control the relay. hook the passing lights to the #87a relay terminal and the yellow fog lights to the 87 terminal. This way (i think:think:) the passing lights would be on and the fog lights off if the manual switch is off. Then when you turn on the manual switch, the passing lights would go off and the fog lights will come on.

[bongobobny]

Would a 12 volt relay cover it?

Yes, as far as the operating voltage, that is exactly what you want! now, current wise, anything greater than 10 Amps should work but try for 20 - 40 amp range, that way it should last virtually forever. Watts total divided by volts (12) = current, and rule of thumb is to double current handling capacity for longevity at a minimum...

[armyvet]

Hmmm

I'm kind of thinking that the kuryakyns aren't a good idea. Has any one ever used the H3 DRL LED bulbs as a replacement to the stock bulb ( http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR )? I'm thinking that LED bulbs would turn a driving light into a marker light, I might be mistaken (it has happened before). Or does any one know of any bullet style light that will work?

Keith

Those lights look neat but I'm kind of looking for amber fender lights and if those were intalled the feed line would be inside the fender, causing another problem.

[Eck]

You probably do not want to just run a switch and a fuse. It would be strongly recommended to use a relay.

 

 

 

I surely hope I made that clear enough for anyone who read my posting.

I did say ....with an inline fuse and a relay.

[Seaking]

Bill

 

Have a look at these....

http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=1

Keith

 

I have these on my Midnight now.. mounted down on the engine guard. I placed them there to provide a wider visual light foot print to oncoming traffic. During the daytime they really don't stand out much.. however, cloudy days, overcast and dusk into night is where these literally shine.. ouch.. and from such a super wide angle.

 

I don't think they will light the road way ahead of you but the way I have mine installed is that they cast a bright light on my front wheel making the bike super visible from the side, and a bright blob in front and around the front end of the bike. Your OEM highway lights typically light better way ahead of these.. but these catch more attention from cagers a lot better OEM highway lights..

 

next nice night we have around here I'll do up some pics and clips to show what they do..

 

Combine those with the HID lights from the same company and wow..

[armyvet]

Eck

 

I'll fall on my sword...

I think that Puppy was directing that comment to me. I said that I was planning to run the hot line directly to the battery with a fuse and switch. I left out relay.

 

I also found a 20 watt fender mount bullet halogen with amber lens. I think I'll give them a try. If they become a problem I can switch the bulb to a high output led bulb. Thanks to all for the input.

Edited May 1, 2010 by armyvet

[BuddyRich]

Running a 3 watt amber LED as a bright SEE ME on the fenders would not draw that much much current and the LED's can take the pounding the front wheel takes. That would allow you to still use your passing lamps at the standard wattage. The yellow moving up and down may also help as an eye catcher.

[saddlebum]

Eck.

Thanks, I plan to run the hot straight to the battery with an inline fuse and mount a toggle switch on the dash.

A toggle switch is fine as long as the amp rating is high enough to carry the load otherwise add in a relay to the circuit.

[gunkylump]

Wow, another Lawson in the fold!

 

Welcome Bill. My friends call me gunk, I too am a "Lawson"

 

gunk:Laugh:

[KiteSquid]

I'm looking to mount kuryakyn driving lights to the fender of my 06 venture.

 

Do you have a URL to the lamps you want to install????

[armyvet]

I was going to install these lights at 35 watts each.

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/310-615

 

But now I going to get these lights at 20 watts each.

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/330-518

 

Gunk

Hello from New York.

[BIG CAT]

unfortunately, this bike does not have much extra charging capacity, so be careful. You can certainly run two 35w bulbs in place of the stock 30w driving lights, but not with them. You cannot replace the stock 30w bulbs with 55w without shortening the life of your battery, and you absolutely cannot run two 55w bulbs concurrently with the stock driving lights.

 

I strongly urge you to get a decent voltmeter and install it on the bike before you make any changes to the lighting. By decent, i mean any digital meter or analog meter with such gradations that you can easily see the difference between 11, 12, 13 and 14 volts. Do not waste your money on any of the led indicators that simply use multicolored lights to entertain you. I personally like the 5 function digital meter you can find at places like www.casporttouring.com.

Goose

goose i've got a 2002 venture where did you mount the 5 function meter on your bike.

[KiteSquid]

But now I going to get these lights at 20 watts each.

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/330-518

 

 

IIRC those lights use a MR16 bulb with a front lens.

 

If you want different wattages or beam patterns you can go to your local lighting supplier for MANY options.....

 

Take the bulb with you to verify type.

[V7Goose]

goose i've got a 2002 venture where did you mount the 5 function meter on your bike.

Stick a little piece of Velcro on the riser caps for the handlebars - the long 5-function meter fits perfectly there.

Goose

[armyvet]

ok

Got the lights and all needed equipment. Can anyone advise; when installing the switch one line (a) goes to the relay and one line (b) goes to a source of switched 12 volt power, does line (b) have a significant draw on it when the lights are on? I'm looking for a place to tap line (b) in to and don't want to overload anything.