My Sick 2nd Gen (long overdue update)

[Cerviperus]

Well, if you read this thread you know about the problems I was having with my 2nd Gen. Well I finally took it to the dealer, because I had some warranty work to be done on it anyway. I finally got them (after a call to Yamaha myself) to replace my warped brake rotor under warranty, and they replaced my fuel petcock.

 

When taking the bike in, I kinda figured they'd assume all of my engine troubles could be traced back to the faulty petcock, and they did. They replaced it, changed out the plugs for me, cleaned and re-synced the carbs (they did say they were off a tad), and replaced a couple hoses that had crud in them from the petcock going bad.

 

I got the bike back last Monday (a week ago) and it seemed to run much better. However, after riding it off and on all week, my problems are back. The engine seems to simply load up, like it's still getting too much gas. In fact, at times you can smell unburnt gas. I did find out that if I'm going down the road and it loads up on me and runs like garbage, if I shut the fuel off at the petcock (which now works properly) and let the thing almost die before turning the gas back on, the problems clear right up and it runs fine again. So it definitely seems like too much gas is the problem. Now what's causing the problems is another mystery.

 

So, I'm going to call the service manager back today and talk to him about it, though I'm pretty sure what he's going to tell me... that my carbs need re-jetted. He told me when I picked it up that they did some kind of test with the exhaust and said it was running slightly rich, but not enough to effect the running of the engine. To be honest, I doubt they ever even took it for a ride further than around the parking lot. So now, if I take it in and they re-jet it, I'm sure that's out of my pocket, and still no guarantee it's going to fix my problem. Could that lead to smelling un-burnt gas? Maybe there is an issue with my choke, though looking over the exterior mechanisms of it, it appears to be in working order. So I don't know...

 

Any thoughts?

[Cerviperus]

Didn't realize I clicked on the wrong forum before posting this. If someone could please move it to the 2nd Gen Tech forum I'd appreciate it. The sooner the better too, before these 1st Gen owners start giving me a hard time!

[pegscraper]

Stuck in the 1st gen rut, are you. Many are.

 

If you are smelling unburned gas, and can shut off the fuel petcock and it starts running better up to the point where it runs out of gas and dies, that sounds like the float levels are way too high. The floats probably ought to be checked out of principle anyway. When I checked the float levels on mine, I found that no two were even the same.

[muffinman]

Have them look at the diaphrams while it is in the shop I had smelled unburnt fuel on my 83 and it turned out to be a slipped slider.The diaphram had pulled out of the slider.

Why do they say that you need to rejet anyway did you change the pipes or something that may require rejetting?

Jeff

Dont worry about the first gen second gen tech mixup You do know that you are really riding a first gen Mk3 Dont you

[Al Bates]

Had the same problem when I fist purchase my RSV. Smelling fuel, poor performance and so on. Found fuel leaking down into the carburetor, causing the engine to run rich.

 

Check your carburetor fuel vent lines. It's a small rubber hose, looks like a vacuum hose. There is one on each side. The left two carbs are on the left side and the right two carbs are on the right side. Both are behind the air filters. (hidden) I pulled them out and place them just under the air filters so I can monitor what is going on. (check pic's below) If there leaking fuel sometimes you can smell it. If you can see them you can monitor them. If there is any fuel coming out of them, mostly at idle, there's a problem. It's running rich.

Low fuel mileage.

 

THE FIX: Pull the spark plugs. Check and see which plug is running rich, if that is the case the plug will be wet and black. Fine out watch plug = carburetor and change the needle and seat, check the float level.

 

Overhauling RSV Carburetors 1999 and up

 

Some things to remember when overhauling the carbs.

 

Disassemble one at a time.

 

Remove every part that can be removed.

 

Be super careful with the o rings.

 

Take your time and clean each part. (kerosene, carburetor cleaner, etc)

 

Do a good inspection on all the parts.

 

Use compressed air to dry them off and blow through each passage way.

 

Reassemble with NEW needle and seat, check the float level and make

adjustments as needed.

 

Use petroleum or vaseline for reassembling, (makes it so much easier)

especially the diaphragms and O-rings. Once there out sometimes they swell

and hard to reinstall. Put (load) petroleum or vaseline in the grove and on the diaphragms edge, use your fingers and thrums and lightly press the edge of the diaphragm into the grove. The petroleum or vaseline will keep the

diaphragm in the grove. Carefully install the diaphragm cover.

 

Reassembling the choke is a little tricky.

 

Adjust idle and Synchronize carbs.

 

Check the carburetor fuel vent lines. Should have no fuel coming out of

them.

 

Hope this helps:080402gudl_prv:

[Cerviperus]

Why do they say that you need to rejet anyway did you change the pipes or something that may require rejetting?

It doesn't quite make any sense to me to be honest. It has the Harley pipes on it, but it's had those since I got the thing in January. This hasn't been a problem the entire time, so I don't see what re-jetting would do. Maybe I just don't understand the whole process. I've never claimed to be mechanically inclined...

[muffinman]

Well that makes me think that the dealer is just guessing at the problem.Tell them to start with the diaphrams then check the float levels.

You may also want to tell them to ColorTune the bike If they do that they will see which carb is the problem.

Jeff

[muffinman]

Justin Mini said to tell you that you should refer them to the website and tell them You have over 3000 friends that know how these bikes are supposed to run.

They can always call the Muffinman to fix the scoot under warranty but I charge alot Just dont tell them about my DQ addiction

Jeff

[Cerviperus]

I just got off the phone with the service manager, and he said pretty much what Al was pointing towards, that it's probably the needle and seat on one of the carbs (the one that had the dark plug in the beginning). He told me to bring it in, and it would be warranty work as well.

 

I was also mistaken about the jetting, so I have to eat a little crow. That wasn't his recommendation for a fix. He's suggesting that while they're going to have the bike apart anyway, he recommends I have it re-jetted, but it's not a necessity. That way, a majority of the labor would be covered with the warranty work. Otherwise if I chose to have it done later it would be the full cost of the labor. So I'd be looking at close to $200 if I have it done now, as opposed to $350 or so.

 

I don't know, you guys/gals tell me, would it be worth it in the long run to go ahead and have it done? He mentioned again that it was running "fat", and the jet kit would help, but wouldn't that also be due to the needle?

 

And before anyone jumps on the dealership, while I don't trust the dealership per se, I trust the service manager. He's been a friend of my parents for a long time. Now the dipsticks working for him are another story...

[Al Bates]

Justin, my recommendation don't rejet the carbs, there is no need for that. May cause more problems. The HD pipes and air filters is ok and will not cause any problems. Some way some dirt or something got into the needle and seat. When this gets corrected the bike will run so much better. You'll be happy. It looks like there on the right track:happy34:

 

My RSV must have had the problem for a long time. When I found it, it was at a poplars dealer. They know nothing about the bike. Come to fine out it was a repo bike that had a problem and the owner gave it back to the bank. I did get a great deal on it. Once I got the problem fix. It has been a super bike. I purchase it with 7,000 miles on it and now have around 60,000 the bike has been great.

[Squeeze]

I'd go with Pegscraper and Al Bates. Flaot Level is important. Have them check the Floathight, Floatvalves and Seats.

 

Rejetting is not needed. It can cause more Problems than it solves. A proper rejetting needs a Lot of Work on the Dyno, regarding the Time needed to dismount, redo and mount the Carbset, i sincerly do not think that 350 US are the Price for a good rejetting. And .... if they only want to change the Main Jets during Warranty Work, 200 Bucks are 180 Bucks too much for the Labour. All four Jets might be 5 each...

[Cerviperus]

I'd go with Pegscraper and Al Bates. Flaot Level is important. Have them check the Floathight, Floatvalves and Seats.

 

Rejetting is not needed. It can cause more Problems than it solves.

You all weren't the only ones saying not to re-jet. I talked to a friend of mine here at work. He's older and wiser than I (partly due to the dozens of bikes he's owned), and he too said he wouldn't recommend having it done. If the needle & float is causing the problems, it's hard to say if re-jetting would make a lick of difference. The service manager said that it might help to make it run a little cleaner, but considering 3 of the 4 plugs looked almost brand new when we checked them, I can't say that it's running dirty.

 

Anyway, I plan to drop it off to them this evening for the warranty stuff, and leave the jetting out of it. I'll report back when I get it back. Thank you all for your responses to day. It really helped between phone calls!

[BuddyRich]

Rejetting the carbs caused Ricks first RSV to get about 22 mpg. I would probably leave them alone

[Al Bates]

One more thing replace all your spark plugs.

[Venturous Randy]

It bothers me that a shop will see 3 out of 4 plugs looking good and not investigate why the 4th one looks bad. It looks bad for a reason and it is telling you there is a problem related to that cylinder.

RandyA

[RedRider]

I will be very curious to see what caused your fuel smell problem. My ride is experiencing the same thing, except no decrease in performance. It has been running great, just smells like gas - especially when decelling, and after a fill up. Hope it is just the vent tubes.

 

Haven't look into it yet - hopefully this weekend. Good luck with your dealer. It sounds like you have a decent one to deal with.

 

RR

[Cerviperus]

One more thing replace all your spark plugs.

 

...was done two weeks ago when it was at the shop...

 

I'm still waiting to hear from the... I dropped it off Monday night. Hopefully they'll have it done and back to me by the weekend.

[Al Bates]

...was done two weeks ago when it was at the shop...

 

I'm still waiting to hear from the... I dropped it off Monday night. Hopefully they'll have it done and back to me by the weekend.

I'm sure they will replace the bad plug, even if it is new, running rich for a day will cause it not to perform properly

[chollahan]

I am having the same problem with mine. After getting it back from the stealer (460 plus for soldering a wire in a harness and new battery) who fixed my coil problem. No coil problems now, but very strong smell of gas and poor milage. Figured I'd change all my plugs and give the carbs a thorough cleaning.

[RedRider]

Justin,

 

Any update?

 

RR

[Cerviperus]

Funny that you asked, as I was just getting on to post my update when I noticed the reply!

 

I got the bike back on Saturday, and took it out for about a 45 minute ride through both residential (stop-and-go) and back country roads (full out). The first thing I noticed was I no longer had the unburnt fuel smell. I do have a slight exhaust smell, but that's not something I can't deal with... hell my last one had a bit of that too when sitting idle. I've also ridden it a couple days to and from work, which is about 10 minutes each way, but I haven't had too many other chances with the weather and errands requiring a cage with more cargo space.

 

I can say though that so far so good. I haven't had any of loading up that I had before, and this morning, for the first time in a long time (okay... forever) I used the choke to get it started, and was able to leave it on half-way for a few minutes to let it warm up without killing the engine. So while I can't say that the problems are gone completely, only being able to get out on it more often will tell, it seems to be running right.

 

The service manager from the dealer actually called me Monday evening to ask how it was running. Whether he's genuinely concerned or tired of looking at my pitiful, aggravated face I can't say. But I appreciated the call.

 

And to those wondering, I can't say for sure if they replaced the one plug again, but they changed the needles and seats in all four carbs. He said they did show a little wear, and that could have definitely caused a problem. He also said that on closer inspection they realized the carbs had already been jetted, so that wouldn't have been the issue. And that is why I prefer to deal directly with him rather than the boneheads under him!