Aussie Annie Posted April 26, 2010 Share #1 Posted April 26, 2010 Okay here's the story: Most of you know that AL installed a Spiegler thumb brake on the Quike for me [moved back brake] He recently removed back wheel, replaced tire with car tire, greased all the splines etc. and replaced the rear brake pads.................now we don't have the thumb brake working again! He can get all the air out of the SS braided line, but still not enough resistance on thumb brake. It will bleed properly with original bike master cylinder, but not with thumb brake M/C. I have emailed Squeeze to see if he can ask Spiegler how to do their master cylinder, and for now Quickstep has linked the brakes.....so my question :think: What is your opinion on dual linked brakes on the Gen 2:confused24: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted April 26, 2010 Share #2 Posted April 26, 2010 (edited) Okay here's the story: Most of you know that AL installed a Spiegler thumb brake on the Quike for me [moved back brake] He recently removed back wheel, replaced tire with car tire, greased all the splines etc. and replaced the rear brake pads.................now we don't have the thumb brake working again! He can get all the air out of the SS braided line, but still not enough resistance on thumb brake. It will bleed properly with original bike master cylinder, but not with thumb brake M/C. I have emailed Squeeze to see if he can ask Spiegler how to do their master cylinder, and for now Quickstep has linked the brakes.....so my question What is your opinion on dual linked brakes on the Gen 2:confused24: There's a couple of things you might try Annie. On braking with the rear brake removed, I think I'd take a look at installing R1 calipers. If your calipers are the same as OEM US you only have 2 pistons each, and only on one side of the caliper. R1's will give you better 4 piston braking, and not wear out one side pad faster. It's a must do on the new2me '99. On bleeding the brakes. Here's a copy of the 'reverse bleed' process for the clutch, but in your case it would work equally as well for the front brakes. Reverse bleeding is done by forcing DOT fluid into the bleeder valve and forcing the air up the line and into the reserve. This can be done several ways. If you have a Speed-Bleeder installed it will have to be removed. If you have a regular bleeder, the reverse bleed can be done with the valve in and open, or you can remove the valve like a speed-bleeder. I find the removal of the valve the easiest. Take a rubber ear wax remover blub that you can find in your local drug store and snip the tip off a little bit at a time until it fits into the threads of the removed valve. It should fit snuggly and the opening should be a bit off the bottom of the hole in the caliper. Remove all the fluid in the reserve. Suck up enough new fluid to fill the bulb, insert it in the threads of the slave and force the fluid into the slave. Keep an eye on the reserve to make sure it doesn’t overflow. Not good. Sometimes you can hear bubbles as they make their way out of the line and into the reserve. If the bulb runs out of fluid it can be reloaded. The hole can be blocked off with your finger while refilling. When no more bubbles appear stick the bleeder valve back into the slave, adjust the level of the fluid in the reserve to about half full, replace the reserve top and you’re good to go. This whole process can be done in about 15 minutes. When done go for a ride. PS: After first opening up the reserve, lightly squeeze the clutch lever a tad. The surface of the fluid in the reserve should deform slightly. Squeeze hard and you’ll end up with fluid on you and the bike. Not good. What this shows you is that the expansion orifice is clear and functioning. If it’s plugged the hot expanded fluid will have no place to go, and start to push on the slave as if you were actually pulling the lever. The clutch will start to slip. This is also why the reserve should be only filled half way. I have seen owners spend a lot of money rebuilding their clutches, and all the reserve had was a plugged expansion hole. Hope this helps Edited April 26, 2010 by Condor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Annie Posted April 27, 2010 Author Share #3 Posted April 27, 2010 Thanks Condor, will pass that on to Quickstep. Squeeze emailed back also..so between the two of you we have great help.:clap2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted April 27, 2010 Share #4 Posted April 27, 2010 On the Quike, I think the R1/R6 caliper conversion all the way around would be an excellent idea. I would also entertain the idea of getting a longer banjo bolt and integrating the front and rear brakes onto the front master cylinder instead of having separate cylinders. Even if you were to lock up 1 tire or both tires in an emergency stop, the Quike's not going to fall over like a regular motorcycle. You'd just have to experiment and see if the factory master would have sufficient volume to operate 3 calipers and if you had enough hand strength in case the resistance went up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Annie Posted April 27, 2010 Author Share #5 Posted April 27, 2010 Interesting flb_78 Will pass info to AL. Where do you all get your R1/R6 calipers from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skydoc_17 Posted April 27, 2010 Share #6 Posted April 27, 2010 Hey Annie, Here is a link to the "Kit" I sell in the classifieds: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2445&title=2nd-gen281996-2010-29-r1-caliper-swap-and-s-sbrake-lines-21&cat=7 This is a complete "plug and play" kit with everything you need including new S.S. brake lines and the VMAX splitter and adapter bracket, plus 2 freshly rebuilt R1 calipers and EBC HH Sintered pads. Depending on the length, I could make up A S.S. brake line to run from the front splitter to the rear caliper. If I can help you in any way Annie, please feel free to PM me. It would be my pleasure to help you sort this problem out. Good Luck on your project, Earl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Annie Posted April 27, 2010 Author Share #7 Posted April 27, 2010 Thank you for that posting. Will show Quickstep. PM sent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted April 27, 2010 Share #8 Posted April 27, 2010 Interesting flb_78 Will pass info to AL. Where do you all get your R1/R6 calipers from? I usually find sets on Ebay Annie.... Just search for 'R1 or R6 calipers'. Others have bought the kit from Earl. I'm not 100% sure but I feel they'll be a direct replacement for the OEM calipers. I'd check with Squeeze on this one to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Annie Posted April 27, 2010 Author Share #9 Posted April 27, 2010 :clap2::clap2::clap2: Many thanks to you all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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