Linked Brakes

[Squeeze]

Hi,

 

i really do not want to spoil this Discussion, but i want to throw in my 2 Cents....

 

I think the Prop Valve of a 1 Gen can't be mounted to the M/C of a 2Gen without serious Trouble. You could try to mount a complete M/C from a 1Gen which has those 2 Ports for front and rear Caliper. You can buy some Custom made Lines to make it work and be done with it ........ NOT

 

You need to compare the Weights of both Bikes to see if the Ratio between each front and rear Weight is not too far different. The M/C and the Prop Valve are not adjustable so, if the Weights fits the needs, it would work. As long as the Rotor Sizes are the same on both Bikes. Are they ??

 

BUT ...

 

what happens on the remaining front Caliper ? The Mastercylinder is too big for feeding the remaining Caliper. You have to replace that with a M/C which has a smaller Piston Diameter. You will possibly find one with the proper Size in the Yamaha Parts list, but if i'm not wrong, the 2Gen have a 1 Inch Handlebars, which is not that common on Yamaha's. As Yamaha Parts List does not list the Piston Diameters, you have to research that on you own.

 

Next is the Angle of the M/C. There are a Lot of M/C's on several Bike, but the upwards angled mounted M/C's are rare. Mostly Yamaha go for a straight mounting Position of the M/C in Relation to the Handlebar.

 

This is an Engineers Job by all means. Don't mess wth the Brakes unless you're not exactly knowing what will happen afterwards.

 

I think, anything which enables to lower the Force on the rear M/C is a way better Solution. Be it either the 'Butler Modification' or just changing the Leverage of the Pedal. And, but this would be more the Icing on the Cake, a Lot cheaper too.

 

I've done lots of Work on Brakes of my Bikes, delinked my 1Gen, because i really do not want to use my Foot to bring this single Bike to a stop on the Dime. My other Bikes are not linked and so, i like all my Rides to work the same Way. I really would love to switch the Linkage of my Vmaxs Shifter to racing Style because sometimes i can't get my Toe underneath the Lever while going through a left Turn. But on my 3rd Bike, this isn't to be made, so all Bikes stay the same. I do not want to think about what needs to done on a specific Bike to get the Result i want. Neither on shifting nor on braking.

 

Again, just my 2 Cents ...

[Guest KitCarson]

Hey what is the advantage of linked brakes over traditional style? I am curious about the reasoning of this. Might be an advantage riding two up....one wheel on sand.......both feet down at a stop........grab the front brake and you would have complete control at slow speeds.......but slow speed handling in say a Walmart parking lot.........I think would suffer....do not touch front brake at slow speed......no.no......bad!! High speeds emergency situations........I am just completely scared to touch that front brakes until under say 50 mph......at this point it becomes a help...prior to this it can hurt you......one can even blow out a rear tire and 99 percent of the time keep it under control.........if that front one blows out..........best have your will made out.......I check that front tire quite carefully before and after each ride..one of my routine inspections........what is the scientific advantage to linked brakes? Kit

[BOO]

Hi,

 

i really do not want to spoil this Discussion, but i want to throw in my 2 Cents....

 

I think the Prop Valve of a 1 Gen can't be mounted to the M/C of a 2Gen without serious Trouble. You could try to mount a complete M/C from a 1Gen which has those 2 Ports for front and rear Caliper. You can buy some Custom made Lines to make it work and be done with it ........ NOT

 

You need to compare the Weights of both Bikes to see if the Ratio between each front and rear Weight is not too far different. The M/C and the Prop Valve are not adjustable so, if the Weights fits the needs, it would work. As long as the Rotor Sizes are the same on both Bikes. Are they ??

 

The bikes are near the same weight and you can buy adjustable valves, I think the one they are using for the Butler mod is adjustable.

 

BUT ...

 

what happens on the remaining front Caliper ?

 

You would only hook up one front brake with the rear and use the remaining one for the front lever.

 

The Mastercylinder is too big for feeding the remaining Caliper.

 

If you are talking about the front lever, a person would probably have to install another adjustable valve for the front system.

 

You have to replace that with a M/C which has a smaller Piston Diameter. You will possibly find one with the proper Size in the Yamaha Parts list, but if i'm not wrong, the 2Gen have a 1 Inch Handlebars, which is not that common on Yamaha's. As Yamaha Parts List does not list the Piston Diameters, you have to research that on you own.

 

Next is the Angle of the M/C. There are a Lot of M/C's on several Bike, but the upwards angled mounted M/C's are raroe. Mostly Yamaha go for a straight mounting Position of the M/C in Relation to the Handlebar.

 

This is an Engineers Job by all means. Don't mess wth the Brakes unless you're not exactly knowing what will happen afterwards.

 

I think, anything which enables to lower the Force on the rear M/C is a way better Solution. Be it either the 'Butler Modification' or just changing the Leverage of the Pedal. And, but this would be more the Icing on the Cake, a Lot cheaper too.

 

I know this solution will keep a person from locking up the rear brake but I don't want less braking, I want more stopping power. I will agree that this will help somewhat but what happens when you load up the bike, put the wife on the rear and hook up the trailer? Do you still have enough stopping power and do you have to adjust the valve again?

 

I've done lots of Work on Brakes of my Bikes, delinked my 1Gen, because i really do not want to use my Foot to bring this single Bike to a stop on the Dime. My other Bikes are not linked and so, i like all my Rides to work the same Way. I really would love to switch the Linkage of my Vmaxs Shifter to racing Style because sometimes i can't get my Toe underneath the Lever while going through a left Turn. But on my 3rd Bike, this isn't to be made, so all Bikes stay the same. I do not want to think about what needs to done on a specific Bike to get the Result i want. Neither on shifting nor on braking.

 

I ride a RSV and an old BSA, it don't get much worse for remembering which foot is shifting and braking.

 

Again, just my 2 Cents ...

 

I'm not sure my comments are worth 2 cents.....

Jerry

[BOO]

Hey what is the advantage of linked brakes over traditional style? I am curious about the reasoning of this. Stopping power without sliding the rear tire? Might be an advantage riding two up....one wheel on sand.......both feet down at a stop........grab the front brake and you would have complete control at slow speeds.......but slow speed handling in say a Walmart parking lot.........I think would suffer....do not touch front brake at slow speed......no.no......bad!! The linked brake have disadvanges but I think they have less then the unlinked. High speeds emergency situations........I am just completely scared to touch that front brakes until under say 50 mph......at this point it becomes a help...prior to this it can hurt you Don't be afraid of the front brakes, they are your friend and probably your best friend. When I am on the interstate and have my feet on the pegs I use the front brake a lot to slow down a bit if I have to and sometimes get on the brake pretty hard, not a problem. ......one can even blow out a rear tire and 99 percent of the time keep it under control.........if that front one blows out..........best have your will made out.......I check that front tire quite carefully before and after each ride..one of my routine inspections........what is the scientific advantage to linked brakes? Kit

I'm not sure if you have had blow outs at high speed, 50 and above but I've had both on different bikes so maybe my thinking is a little unfair but I really believe I would rather have a front blow then a back. I was able to keep the bike up when the front blew but I went down hard when the back went. No control at all with the back flat, acts a whole lot like locking up the rear brake and it does slide at times when it catches in the frame.

 

Just my opinions and experiences, probably worth less than 2 cents.

Jerry

[Squeeze]

I think the Prop Valve of a 1 Gen can't be mounted to the M/C of a 2Gen without serious Trouble. You could try to mount a complete M/C from a 1Gen which has those 2 Ports for front and rear Caliper. You can buy some Custom made Lines to make it work and be done with it ........ NOT

 

 

You need to compare the Weights of both Bikes to see if the Ratio between each front and rear Weight is not too far different. The M/C and the Prop Valve are not adjustable so, if the Weights fits the needs, it would work. As long as the Rotor Sizes are the same on both Bikes. Are they ??

 

The bikes are near the same weight and you can buy adjustable valves, I think the one they are using for the Butler mod is adjustable.

 

The total Weight may be nearly the same, but i've spoken about Weight on front and rear Wheel, this may be different.

 

The Valve Rick Butler uses is a Reduction Valve and its only reducing the Amount of Fluid served to the Caliper or was it the Pressure, i don't know right now. What needs to be adjustable ist the Portion of dividing the supplied Pressure between front and rear. On the 1Gen's these Proportion is fixed with a Prefix to the front left Caliper.

 

 

BUT ...

 

what happens on the remaining front Caliper ?

 

You would only hook up one front brake with the rear and use the remaining one for the front lever.

 

Really ???

 

 

The Mastercylinder is too big for feeding the remaining Caliper.

 

If you are talking about the front lever, a person would probably have to install another adjustable valve for the front system.

 

I was talking about the front Mastercylinder. That might be an Idea, but not a good one.

 

 

You have to replace that with a M/C which has a smaller Piston Diameter. You will possibly find one with the proper Size in the Yamaha Parts list, but if i'm not wrong, the 2Gen have a 1 Inch Handlebars, which is not that common on Yamaha's. As Yamaha Parts List does not list the Piston Diameters, you have to research that on you own.

 

Next is the Angle of the M/C. There are a Lot of M/C's on several Bike, but the upwards angled mounted M/C's are rare. Mostly Yamaha go for a straight mounting Position of the M/C in Relation to the Handlebar.

 

This is an Engineers Job by all means. Don't mess wth the Brakes unless you're not exactly knowing what will happen afterwards.

 

I think, anything which enables to lower the Force on the rear M/C is a way better Solution. Be it either the 'Butler Modification' or just changing the Leverage of the Pedal. And, but this would be more the Icing on the Cake, a Lot cheaper too.

 

I know this solution will keep a person from locking up the rear brake but I don't want less braking, I want more stopping power. I will agree that this will help somewhat but what happens when you load up the bike, put the wife on the rear and hook up the trailer? Do you still have enough stopping power and do you have to adjust the valve again?

 

I don't talk about reducing Stopping Power. I talk about making the Bike up to a Point where the Brake locks up on the far End of the Lever. It's just more controlable. If you want to have a self adjustable System, you need to go to a Junkyard and get a load sensitive Valve from the rear Axle of light Truck or something like that. This Valve adjusts the Ammount of Fluid which can pass through by a Lever which ich mounted against the Frame. Once there is more Load on the Truck, the Lever is more pressed and more Fluid gets by. Is there automatic Suspension on the 2Gen's like the 1Gen's have? If so, this won't work. If not, that would work out after good testing and adjusting. Also, the Limits you work within are limited. Riding Single means locking up fast, 2-up and with Trailer, means a Lot more Weight on the rear Wheel and, as a Result more Force to the ground which allows more Brakeforce until the Tire starts slipping. But the Workrange is not Zero to 100 Percent. It'maybe 30 Percent to 100 Percent. If you reduce the Possibility of locking up the Brakes easy, you will still be able to lock up, with a Lot more Force from your Foot applied, which will happen anyways in a Emergency Situation.

 

In other Words and overdued, now, you can lock her up with with the Force of one Toe, after the Modification, it should lock up only when you step with the whole Foot on it. That's the Goal to achieve.

[CrazyHorse]

Hey what is the advantage of linked brakes over traditional style? I am curious about the reasoning of this. Might be an advantage riding two up....one wheel on sand.......both feet down at a stop........grab the front brake and you would have complete control at slow speeds.......but slow speed handling in say a Walmart parking lot.........I think would suffer....do not touch front brake at slow speed......no.no......bad!! High speeds emergency situations........I am just completely scared to touch that front brakes until under say 50 mph......at this point it becomes a help...prior to this it can hurt you......one can even blow out a rear tire and 99 percent of the time keep it under control.........if that front one blows out..........best have your will made out.......I check that front tire quite carefully before and after each ride..one of my routine inspections........what is the scientific advantage to linked brakes? Kit

 

Linked brakes were designed as a safety feature for those who love to jam on the rear brake pedal like a car and were afraid to use the front brake. (20-30 yrs ago people were told to be afraid of the front brake) It helps prevent you from locking the rear and having the tail slide out to one side or the other. Though I'm not convinced it totally eliminates it. (If you notice all Pickup trucks now come with rear ABS because of the long wheel base and light rear end they had a tendency due to the long wheel base of locking the rear brakes and the rear end coming around on them. Our wheel bases on bikes are not that long of course.) In a tail slide with locked rear at higher speeds if you let off the rear brake the rear end snaps around to be in line with the front very violenty so much so the bike will be ripped from your hands flipping you off the bike in whats called a high side crash. The linking forces you to use the front brake which you should use. ( BMW actually links the other way front to back instead of rear to front which I would not mind so much. ) Your braking distances double if you just rear alone, using front alone its much shorter but using both brakes was the best (but not much better then front alone).

 

Lets face it many riders are weekend only riders who might get 2000 miles on thier bike in a year thats why you find so many low mileage bikes out there people dont ride them enough. I'll call them lazy many do not take the time for safety classes and many riders dont have the proper license never bothering to get one. ( Heck that Mickey guy from American Chopper didnt have a license and he's driving around on TV.) So for the majority of people that are weekend riders a straight line quick stop linked brakes work well it makes the less trained safer in straight line stops because it forces you to use both brakes. Because many of the masses dont have the training or the practice working motorcycle brakes and treat their bike like a car. (Like cowpuc was saying he does not like linked brakes in a turn with less then perfect traction I would have to agree.)

 

I think Honda Goldwing first came out with linked brakes I could be wrong though. Many Goldwing owners complained about this but Honda said they took road racers and found that they drove better and faster times with the linked setup. Now I find this hard to believe I dont know of any road racer that uses linked brakes if this were true they all would have them. I think they were designed as lawsuit protection because they knew the masses were (not everyone of course) not getting the training and practice they need.

 

Kit why are you so afraid to use your front brake over 50mph? Depending on your speed you gonna eat up alot of pavement waiting for 50 mph and then are you constantly looking down at the speedometer waiting for 50 mph when you should be looking where you want to go? Your gonna hit what you dont want to hit. Squeeze your front brakes smoothly dont yank them but use them. I wouldnt worry about your front tire blowing from braking unless your riding on belts.

[Orrin]

Wow!!! Some Very Knowledgeable And Well Thought Out Opinions And Experience Here. Thank You All.

 

After Having Read Through And Thought Carefully About What Has Been Said I Can See What I Think Has To Be Examined To Accomplish Linked Brakes.

 

All Of The Components Have To Be Balanced In Relation To One And Another In Order To Work Safely And Successfully As A Whole. This Requires A Lot Of Engineering And Testing.

 

1 Have A M/c For The Front That Properly Operates 1 Front Caliper.

 

2 Have A Rear M/c That Operates The Proper Size Rear Caliper Through A Proportioning Valve And Operates The Remaining Front Caliper. This Has To Be Properly Balanced To Operate In A Variety On Conditions.

 

These Are Big Issues To Handle.

 

Why Did Yamaha Discontinue The Linked Brakes On The 1st Generations? It Would Be Interesting To Find Out What Successes And Proplems They Encountered. Please, Those Of You Who Own 1st Generations Please Jump In Here And Let Us Know.

 

I Am Concerned About This Because I Know What My Own Limitations Are And How I React In An Emergency Stop. I Am Examining This Because I Want To Make My Bike Safer.

[Squeeze]

Linked brakes were designed as a safety feature for those who love to jam on the rear brake pedal like a car and were afraid to use the front brake. (20-30 yrs ago people were told to be afraid of the front brake) It helps prevent you from locking the rear and having the tail slide out to one side or the other. Though I'm not convinced it totally eliminates it. (If you notice all Pickup trucks now come with rear ABS because of the long wheel base and light rear end they had a tendency due to the long wheel base of locking the rear brakes and the rear end coming around on them. Our wheel bases on bikes are not that long of course.) In a tail slide with locked rear at higher speeds if you let off the rear brake the rear end snaps around to be in line with the front very violenty so much so the bike will be ripped from your hands flipping you off the bike in whats called a high side crash. The linking forces you to use the front brake which you should use. ( BMW actually links the other way front to back instead of rear to front which I would not mind so much. ) Your braking distances double if you just rear alone, using front alone its much shorter but using both brakes was the best (but not much better then front alone).

 

Lets face it many riders are weekend only riders who might get 2000 miles on thier bike in a year thats why you find so many low mileage bikes out there people dont ride them enough. I'll call them lazy many do not take the time for safety classes and many riders dont have the proper license never bothering to get one. ( Heck that Mickey guy from American Chopper didnt have a license and he's driving around on TV.) So for the majority of people that are weekend riders a straight line quick stop linked brakes work well it makes the less trained safer in straight line stops because it forces you to use both brakes. Because many of the masses dont have the training or the practice working motorcycle brakes and treat their bike like a car. (Like cowpuc was saying he does not like linked brakes in a turn with less then perfect traction I would have to agree.)

 

I think Honda Goldwing first came out with linked brakes I could be wrong though. Many Goldwing owners complained about this but Honda said they took road racers and found that they drove better and faster times with the linked setup. Now I find this hard to believe I dont know of any road racer that uses linked brakes if this were true they all would have them. I think they were designed as lawsuit protection because they knew the masses were (not everyone of course) not getting the training and practice they need.

 

Kit why are you so afraid to use your front brake over 50mph? Depending on your speed you gonna eat up alot of pavement waiting for 50 mph and then are you constantly looking down at the speedometer waiting for 50 mph when you should be looking where you want to go? Your gonna hit what you dont want to hit. Squeeze your front brakes smoothly dont yank them but use them. I wouldnt worry about your front tire blowing from braking unless your riding on belts.

 

Hey Jimbob, what you said ... I second your Statement on almost any Word, except the one about Lawsuits. The Companies do not link the Brakes because the Fear of being sued, they do it because the average Rider did get better Breakdistance back in the 1980ties. Well, this has changed over the Years ...

 

 

Kit, i have two 8 Piston-Calipers on the front of my Max along with two 320mm casted Rotors and a fully adjustable ISR Mastercylinder ... You know what, this is BRAKING POWER !!!! I can get fully on the Lever if Speed is over 50 mph until getting down to 20 mph, there is no Way locking the front.

 

Just take a Look a every modern Road Racer, front Brakes are huge, rear ones are getting smaller and weaker, because braking with rear results in Lock Ups and real bad Brakedistance. My Friend hghsided his 750 last Year at 40 mph braking too much for the oncoming Turn. He got airborne about 4 Yards and had a broken Rib afterwards...

[Thom]

when i 1st got my 1stg i was going to delink the brake , i thought it was stupid having the 2 brakes together but i found this site and was talked out of it but i did take the guts out of the p valve so i would have more back brake , it worked , now here is the buuut , i usually only use my front brake in normal riding yes i am lazy , i use my foot brake when pulling a trailer or have to , in the old days we did it backwards , rear bake all the time ,front only in a emer. when i used to build choppers i never put on a front brake untill fl. made it a law and than i used honda 90 front wheels and only ajusted the cable for state inspections , anyway back to pulling the guts out of the p valve , at vogel this year , found out i had less brake than the other 1gs ,plus i ate my rear pads[ ebc hh ] and blue the seals on the rear caliber but it was 21 years old . i am back to factory and i like it ! it feels like a 60 / 40 split and yes i have slid both tires , blue hair and i was pulling a 700 lb trailer doing 50 mph but i got stopped , i would not delink a 1stg , on a lite bike yes but a 1stg are heavy and lov the front brake . my 2 c.

[Guest KitCarson]

Linked brakes were designed as a safety feature for those who love to jam on the rear brake pedal like a car and were afraid to use the front brake. (20-30 yrs ago people were told to be afraid of the front brake) It helps prevent you from locking the rear and having the tail slide out to one side or the other. Though I'm not convinced it totally eliminates it. (If you notice all Pickup trucks now come with rear ABS because of the long wheel base and light rear end they had a tendency due to the long wheel base of locking the rear brakes and the rear end coming around on them. Our wheel bases on bikes are not that long of course.) In a tail slide with locked rear at higher speeds if you let off the rear brake the rear end snaps around to be in line with the front very violenty so much so the bike will be ripped from your hands flipping you off the bike in whats called a high side crash. The linking forces you to use the front brake which you should use. ( BMW actually links the other way front to back instead of rear to front which I would not mind so much. ) Your braking distances double if you just rear alone, using front alone its much shorter but using both brakes was the best (but not much better then front alone).

 

Lets face it many riders are weekend only riders who might get 2000 miles on thier bike in a year thats why you find so many low mileage bikes out there people dont ride them enough. I'll call them lazy many do not take the time for safety classes and many riders dont have the proper license never bothering to get one. ( Heck that Mickey guy from American Chopper didnt have a license and he's driving around on TV.) So for the majority of people that are weekend riders a straight line quick stop linked brakes work well it makes the less trained safer in straight line stops because it forces you to use both brakes. Because many of the masses dont have the training or the practice working motorcycle brakes and treat their bike like a car. (Like cowpuc was saying he does not like linked brakes in a turn with less then perfect traction I would have to agree.)

 

I think Honda Goldwing first came out with linked brakes I could be wrong though. Many Goldwing owners complained about this but Honda said they took road racers and found that they drove better and faster times with the linked setup. Now I find this hard to believe I dont know of any road racer that uses linked brakes if this were true they all would have them. I think they were designed as lawsuit protection because they knew the masses were (not everyone of course) not getting the training and practice they need.

 

Kit why are you so afraid to use your front brake over 50mph? Depending on your speed you gonna eat up alot of pavement waiting for 50 mph and then are you constantly looking down at the speedometer waiting for 50 mph when you should be looking where you want to go? Your gonna hit what you dont want to hit. Squeeze your front brakes smoothly dont yank them but use them. I wouldnt worry about your front tire blowing from braking unless your riding on belts.

Thanks......that explains a lot and you did it in a very easy to understand way. Yes I am one of those guys who are afraid of the front brake....was taught that........and learned that.....yes I have been to several motorcycle safety classes and learned to use the front brake more.....and I am trying to do so.........just habit I suppose. I do use it a lot at town speeds, find it a great help......I also was a road racer for Yamaha when I was a teenager. No we never had any linked brakes........as a matter of fact if the bike we had had a front brake we used to take it off. One of my favorites was a single cylinder 360. That thing had power!!

Your post is quite informative.......I will concentrate and learn to use the front brake more.........I am quite aware of the side-crash situation, just learned to let off before the rear slides to the right too far, then hit it again. I think the linked brakes sound like a good idea on a straight road...just from experience do not think I would like them in the twisties..but then I use the gearbox there most of the time, never touch the brake......Yep I am one of those who learned to fear the front brake, but will start playing with it more. Hey did have to practice that.....two years ago, went to Florida for a bit.......had to get a MC license there....failed it twice!! Put my foot down in a turn one time....outa there!. Next time shifted down into 1st gear in the turn....outa there.........got it the third time!! Had to make an emergency stop .......so did practice using the front brake.......but there again, under 50.....not afraid to lock it up at that speed. Kit

[Guest KitCarson]

Hey Jimbob, what you said ... I second your Statement on almost any Word, except the one about Lawsuits. The Companies do not link the Brakes because the Fear of being sued, they do it because the average Rider did get better Breakdistance back in the 1980ties. Well, this has changed over the Years ...

 

 

Kit, i have two 8 Piston-Calipers on the front of my Max along with two 320mm casted Rotors and a fully adjustable ISR Mastercylinder ... You know what, this is BRAKING POWER !!!! I can get fully on the Lever if Speed is over 50 mph until getting down to 20 mph, there is no Way locking the front.

 

Just take a Look a every modern Road Racer, front Brakes are huge, rear ones are getting smaller and weaker, because braking with rear results in Lock Ups and real bad Brakedistance. My Friend hghsided his 750 last Year at 40 mph braking too much for the oncoming Turn. He got airborne about 4 Yards and had a broken Rib afterwards...

Things do change, don't they? We used to take the front brake clear off.........now yes I have seen the new road racers........different machine......new attitude........more knowledge. I am interested in anything that is safer and works better, I am not that old school!!. Yes I am quite interested in a front brake that I can ride hard and not lock up the front wheel. This is something I will have to look into........front brakes on most bikes....including my new venture will lock up if you do not watch it.......as I plan to keep Cricket......may have to find her some new front brakes. Kit

[CrazyHorse]

Things do change, don't they? We used to take the front brake clear off.........now yes I have seen the new road racers........different machine......new attitude........more knowledge. I am interested in anything that is safer and works better, I am not that old school!!. Yes I am quite interested in a front brake that I can ride hard and not lock up the front wheel. This is something I will have to look into........front brakes on most bikes....including my new venture will lock up if you do not watch it.......as I plan to keep Cricket......may have to find her some new front brakes. Kit

 

Not long ago I got on a Honda crotch rocket that my wifes girlfreind stored in our garage to take it back to her place, I forgot how sensitive the front brakes can be on those so used to my Venture which takes much more pressure. The trick is no matter how sensitive the brakes are using a smooth application should be your goal. I know its hard in an emergency not to grab (grabbing on bike especially without anti-dive forks loads up the front suspension quickly shifting weight foward, lifting the rear wheel (making rear lock up real easy) and putting alot of pressure on the front to quickly making it skid faster, but this where practice comes in knowing the limitations of your bike. (I.E. Brake practice knowing what to expect out of your bike if the situation or need ever arises.) Your tires began to howl when they start skidding you hear that noise you may have to back off before you lock depending on various factors. Your bikes not gonna flip over because you used the front brakes over 50mph. What I do since my bike is not linked rear brake first but only a split second before I use front brake. This helps settle the suspension your bike will not load up the front fork as quick help keeping the rear wheel with more weight on it (slightly harder to lock up) and hopefully producing a nice stop.

 

I can see where a linked setup would help in straight stops, but I dont like the feel I get in any sort of turn or less then good surface or slow speed manuvers. I use my rear brake alot in turns helps stabilize you but I also sometimes use a feathering of front (trail braking) but I want to control the time and place I do that. I dont want my bike telling me I have to use both brakes everytime I hit the brakes. But like Monsta said paying attention is the best brake you have. Some may disagree with me but this is what I do. Safe riding, Jim.