Clutch fluid change?

[Canuck]

Clutch fluid is getting dark and glass window is full so I thought I would change it. Is there a tech article on how to change the fluid somewhere, I can,t seem to find it. Thanks.

[tsigwing]

Clutch fluid is getting dark and glass window is full so I thought I would change it. Is there a tech article on how to change the fluid somewhere, I can,t seem to find it. Thanks.

 

on mine you remove the left rear cylinder cover, there is a rubber piece covering the nipple for the clutch hydraulic system, remove it and away you go.

[LilBeaver]

I don't know if there is a tech article on it or not. Either way, it is pretty straight forward.

 

I wrote this assuming you have a 2nd Gen. The procedure for a 1st gen ought to be pretty much the same except the bleed valve might be in a different place.

 

As tsigwing said remove the rear left cylinder cover, pull back the black rubber deal and you'll see a bleeder valve (just like on the brake calipers).

 

If you don't have a mightyvac or similar pump type system, you can still do it just do as follows:

 

1) Remove left rear cylinder cover, pull back black rubber cover to locate the bleeder valve

2) cover painted surfaces (left cowl and fuel tank) to avoid getting the brake fluid on the paint (as this is NOT good for it).

3) Get bike as level as possible with the handle bars turned to the full right lock position and boards under the side-stand or the bike lifted enough to level it off on the side-stand. In a pinch, you could get a helper to stabilize the bike long enough to do the work with the reservoir cover.

4) CAREFULLY remove the clutch reservoir cover - I suggest having a paper towel or old rag wrapped around the lower side of the reservoir cover as you are likely to have some spill out of there. Remove plastic filler piece and diaphragm from reservoir - again be careful not to drip the brake fluid on any painted surface.

5) Use a turkey baster or syringe (preferably one that you have no intention on using for food, ever again) to remove the old fluid out of the reservoir. Clean the reservoir appropriately.

6) open a can of fresh fluid (DOT 4 or DOT 5.1) and fill the resevoir about 3/4 of the way full. Replace diaphragm, plastic piece and cover, tighten the screws appropriately.

7) Place an appropriately sized hose over the bleeder valve with the other end going into a container that won't spill.

8) Slowly pump the clutch lever several times (anywhere from 3-10 is appropriate) and on the last pump keep the lever held in and using your (7mm, I believe) wrench, slowly open the bleeder valve until you see the fluid stop moving through the tube, then close the bleeder valve.

9) Slowly release the clutch lever to the fully extended position

10) Repeat step 8 and 9 until you see the fresh and clean fluid coming out of your hose. Make sure to keep an eye on your master cylinder window to make sure that you do not run out of fluid in the reservoir and start sucking air. If you do that, you'll have to bleed the system to get all the air out (and that can be a pain).

 

This process works fine. I just did mine like this recently, it took maybe 30 minutes start to finish (including getting the tools out, jacking the bike up, fluid change, getting the bike off the jack and putting everything away). And I probably could have saved 10 minutes if I had a helper.

 

Using this procedure to do the brakes goes MUCH faster, because with the brakes you do not have to do the repetitive pumping. It is just a pull lever, open bleed valve, close bleed valve release lever and repeat.

 

Just remember to take it easy on that bleed valve, the torque spec is quite low, and that would be a bugger if you stripped it.

 

:080402gudl_prv:

[Yammer Dan]

I don't know if there is a tech article on it or not. Either way, it is pretty straight forward.

 

I wrote this assuming you have a 2nd Gen. The procedure for a 1st gen ought to be pretty much the same except the bleed valve might be in a different place.

 

As tsigwing said remove the rear left cylinder cover, pull back the black rubber deal and you'll see a bleeder valve (just like on the brake calipers).

 

If you don't have a mightyvac or similar pump type system, you can still do it just do as follows:

 

1) Remove left rear cylinder cover, pull back black rubber cover to locate the bleeder valve

2) cover painted surfaces (left cowl and fuel tank) to avoid getting the brake fluid on the paint (as this is NOT good for it).

3) Get bike as level as possible with the handle bars turned to the full right lock position and boards under the side-stand or the bike lifted enough to level it off on the side-stand. In a pinch, you could get a helper to stabilize the bike long enough to do the work with the reservoir cover.

4) CAREFULLY remove the clutch reservoir cover - I suggest having a paper towel or old rag wrapped around the lower side of the reservoir cover as you are likely to have some spill out of there. Remove plastic filler piece and diaphragm from reservoir - again be careful not to drip the brake fluid on any painted surface.

5) Use a turkey baster or syringe (preferably one that you have no intention on using for food, ever again) to remove the old fluid out of the reservoir. Clean the reservoir appropriately.

6) open a can of fresh fluid (DOT 4 or DOT 5.1) and fill the resevoir about 3/4 of the way full. Replace diaphragm, plastic piece and cover, tighten the screws appropriately.

7) Place an appropriately sized hose over the bleeder valve with the other end going into a container that won't spill.

8) Slowly pump the clutch lever several times (anywhere from 3-10 is appropriate) and on the last pump keep the lever held in and using your (7mm, I believe) wrench, slowly open the bleeder valve until you see the fluid stop moving through the tube, then close the bleeder valve.

9) Slowly release the clutch lever to the fully extended position

10) Repeat step 8 and 9 until you see the fresh and clean fluid coming out of your hose. Make sure to keep an eye on your master cylinder window to make sure that you do not run out of fluid in the reservoir and start sucking air. If you do that, you'll have to bleed the system to get all the air out (and that can be a pain).

 

This process works fine. I just did mine like this recently, it took maybe 30 minutes start to finish (including getting the tools out, jacking the bike up, fluid change, getting the bike off the jack and putting everything away). And I probably could have saved 10 minutes if I had a helper.

 

Using this procedure to do the brakes goes MUCH faster, because with the brakes you do not have to do the repetitive pumping. It is just a pull lever, open bleed valve, close bleed valve release lever and repeat.

 

Just remember to take it easy on that bleed valve, the torque spec is quite low, and that would be a bugger if you stripped it.

 

:080402gudl_prv:

 

 

 

Good One!!

 

But you didn't include time for breaks!! And if you explain it right it can get you a whole day away from that Honey-do list!!

[LilBeaver]

...

But you didn't include time for breaks!! And if you explain it right it can get you a whole day away from that Honey-do list!!

 

OH but I did. See, doing it THIS way leaves room for the ultimate 'test ride' after things get cleaned up. Got to get that clutch fluid warmed up and to make sure it works right... Right? I much rather 'take a break' by riding than otherwise... But maybe that's just me

 

Oh yea. I guess I'm 'missing out' by not having someone around to give me a 'honey-do' list... :think: Dang.

 

[Canuck]

Thanks Rick, that,s what I needed. It,s 24c here and the sun is shining so maybe the test ride will come first,,, no, can,t do it that way, better change the fluid first and then if I,m late ror supper because of the test ride it won,t be my fault,,, right.

[bmxndad]

Make sure you actually clean the resovoir. I kept bleeding and bleeding mine, but still dark. I finally took a good look in the resovoir and found I had a couple small clumps of dark crap. Got those out and finally got a nice amber color.

 

Ross

[Canuck]

Did it today, Ross and there was some black crud in the bottom so it got cleaned out first. Clutch is much improved.

[wes0778]

I don't know if there is a tech article on it or not. Either way, it is pretty straight forward.

 

I wrote this assuming you have a 2nd Gen. The procedure for a 1st gen ought to be pretty much the same except the bleed valve might be in a different place.

 

As tsigwing said remove the rear left cylinder cover, pull back the black rubber deal and you'll see a bleeder valve (just like on the brake calipers).

 

If you don't have a mightyvac or similar pump type system, you can still do it just do as follows:

 

1) Remove left rear cylinder cover, pull back black rubber cover to locate the bleeder valve

2) cover painted surfaces (left cowl and fuel tank) to avoid getting the brake fluid on the paint (as this is NOT good for it).

3) Get bike as level as possible with the handle bars turned to the full right lock position and boards under the side-stand or the bike lifted enough to level it off on the side-stand. In a pinch, you could get a helper to stabilize the bike long enough to do the work with the reservoir cover.

4) CAREFULLY remove the clutch reservoir cover - I suggest having a paper towel or old rag wrapped around the lower side of the reservoir cover as you are likely to have some spill out of there. Remove plastic filler piece and diaphragm from reservoir - again be careful not to drip the brake fluid on any painted surface.

5) Use a turkey baster or syringe (preferably one that you have no intention on using for food, ever again) to remove the old fluid out of the reservoir. Clean the reservoir appropriately.

6) open a can of fresh fluid (DOT 4 or DOT 5.1) and fill the resevoir about 3/4 of the way full. Replace diaphragm, plastic piece and cover, tighten the screws appropriately.

7) Place an appropriately sized hose over the bleeder valve with the other end going into a container that won't spill.

8) Slowly pump the clutch lever several times (anywhere from 3-10 is appropriate) and on the last pump keep the lever held in and using your (7mm, I believe) wrench, slowly open the bleeder valve until you see the fluid stop moving through the tube, then close the bleeder valve.

9) Slowly release the clutch lever to the fully extended position

10) Repeat step 8 and 9 until you see the fresh and clean fluid coming out of your hose. Make sure to keep an eye on your master cylinder window to make sure that you do not run out of fluid in the reservoir and start sucking air. If you do that, you'll have to bleed the system to get all the air out (and that can be a pain).

 

This process works fine. I just did mine like this recently, it took maybe 30 minutes start to finish (including getting the tools out, jacking the bike up, fluid change, getting the bike off the jack and putting everything away). And I probably could have saved 10 minutes if I had a helper.

 

Using this procedure to do the brakes goes MUCH faster, because with the brakes you do not have to do the repetitive pumping. It is just a pull lever, open bleed valve, close bleed valve release lever and repeat.

 

Just remember to take it easy on that bleed valve, the torque spec is quite low, and that would be a bugger if you stripped it.

 

:080402gudl_prv:

 

Only thing I would add would be install a Speed Bleeder.

[KiteSquid]

When I ask for "clutch fluid" at the parts counter, they laugh at me..... what am I doing wrong???????

 

 

 

BTW the factory service manual covers MOST maintenance with few errors.... you can download a FREE copy from this web site. look in the VRTech section.....

Edited April 22, 2010 by KiteSquid

[rod]

When I ask for "clutch fluid" at the parts counter, they laugh at me

 

They call it brake fluid, really hydraulic fluid. Rod

[KiteSquid]

 

They call it brake fluid, really hydraulic fluid. Rod

 

OH so there really is not a product called "Clutch Fluid" it is actually Hydraulic Fluid that meets DOT 3 or DOT 4 standards for brake fluid.

 

Thanks!!!!! I thought I was being an IDIOT.

[LilBeaver]

When I ask for "clutch fluid" at the parts counter, they laugh at me

 

...

 

OH so there really is not a product called "Clutch Fluid" it is actually Hydraulic Fluid that meets DOT 3 or DOT 4 standards for brake fluid.

 

...

 

 

'Hydraulic Fluid' not to be confused with turn signal fluid too. Don't want that stuff to get mixed up!!! :yikes:

 

[KiteSquid]

Gotta get me some of that Turn Signal Fluid, as my car turn signal is a little slow. it might be low.....

[TDunc]

I ALWAYS keep a bottle of turn signal fluid handy in the shop. I keep it right next to my wire stretcher.

[Guest seuadr]

I ALWAYS keep a bottle of turn signal fluid handy in the shop. I keep it right next to my wire stretcher.

you ever wanna get rid of that stretcher, send me a pm, they are HARD to find!