dingy Posted April 18, 2010 Share #1 Posted April 18, 2010 Has anyone put a mechanical oil gauge on a 1st gen? Where would be a good place to tap into a oil feed location. I am looking at tapping into the line that comes out of the 'Twinkie' and runs to each cylinder head. Any better suggestion? Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted April 19, 2010 Share #2 Posted April 19, 2010 As I understand it, we don't really want to go there, because of the scare we would get seeing the lack of pressure at idle,,,,,, but then that's only hearsay from some locals who may or may not know what they are talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted April 19, 2010 Author Share #3 Posted April 19, 2010 As I understand it, we don't really want to go there, because of the scare we would get seeing the lack of pressure at idle,,,,,, but then that's only hearsay from some locals who may or may not know what they are talking about. Carl, That wouldn't be a problem if I knew it was normal. I don't scare that easy. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capn eddie Posted April 19, 2010 Share #4 Posted April 19, 2010 Has anyone put a mechanical oil gauge on a 1st gen? Where would be a good place to tap into a oil feed location. I am looking at tapping into the line that comes out of the 'Twinkie' and runs to each cylinder head. Any better suggestion? Gary gary go to cycleoneoff.com click on vmax link oil gauge kits the one i got for my 1st gen was #014vmaxgk for $45.00 +tax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted April 19, 2010 Author Share #5 Posted April 19, 2010 gary go to cycleoneoff.com click on vmax link oil gauge kits the one i got for my 1st gen was #014vmaxgk for $45.00 +tax Could you get me a copy of the instructions some how. It looks like they are drilling into the bolt below the water pump and connecting into an oil pressure port there. [ATTACH]44170[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]44171[/ATTACH] gary@dinges.com Thanks Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capn eddie Posted April 19, 2010 Share #6 Posted April 19, 2010 Could you get me a copy of the instructions some how. It looks like they are drilling into the bolt below the water pump and connecting into an oil pressure port there. [ATTACH]44170[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]44171[/ATTACH] gary@dinges.com Thanks Gary On mine the kit comes with a plug and o ring you screw into that hole . i bought a cd that shows how to build a vmax motor and at the end of the build it shows the install of the oil gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted April 19, 2010 Author Share #7 Posted April 19, 2010 I have that CD, just never watched it that far. I see what he is doing. Thanks, Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaltyDog Posted April 19, 2010 Share #8 Posted April 19, 2010 I installed a mechanical oil pressure guage on my '83 last summer. I looked at the Vmax kit online and decided to make my own. I already had a 0-100 psi guage laying around and I just removed the oil gallery plug from the right side of the engine and went down to the auto parts store for a similar drain plug. The existing Venture oil gallery plug has a recessed hex socket area and is too thin to hold many threads. I wanted to use a plug with a thicker head and tap it to fit a brass 90 degree fitting. I ran the 1/8 inch copper guage tubing up to the right side of the fairing to the oil pressure guage that I mounted in the opening for the right speaker. I ran the tubing inside of some black plastic tubing to prevent any problems with the copper tubing becoming worn by vibrating against the frame along the route. I had already removed the stereo on the left side of the fairing and turned that area into a storage pocket so the speakers were already gone. The high placement of the guage gives good readability. The guage reads about 70-80 psi at startup and runs 30-35 psi during cruising. The pressure does drop to 5-10 psi at hot idle, but that is easy to get used to seeing. I decided to install the oil pressure guage after reading the stories on the Vmax sites of the oil pressure tubing on the bottom of the engine blowing off during heavy operation. Since my bike is an '83, I decided to replace all the o rings on the bottom oil lines inside the oil pan and to verify that all the fasteners were tight. I don't ride my bike like a Vmax at high acceleration but I could. I didn't want to worry that I would have a sudden oil pressure loss and toast my engine. The oil pressure guage is my startup insurance that all is fine and I scan it regularly during riding. It isn't essential, but alot of my modifications are only to please the gadget loving side of me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonm. Posted April 19, 2010 Share #9 Posted April 19, 2010 I did like salty. But left the gauge right on the engine by the oil water pump. 2 - 45 degree fittings keep it where I can see it when stopped. Gauge cost $30, drain plug 20mm x 1.5 $3. The drill & tap. I used a 60# gauge because the accuracy of the 100# units are usually way off below 20psi. Also you know when the engine is warmed up. As the pressue drops to below 20psi @idle. Oh yes, in case I take a hard spill and break the gauge off...I carry the original plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted April 19, 2010 Author Share #10 Posted April 19, 2010 Jason, Where did you get the drain plug at? Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonm. Posted April 19, 2010 Share #11 Posted April 19, 2010 (edited) Advance Auto or Autozone or PEP BOYS... I honestly dont remember. Advance is closest to me. So I'll lean that way. Just remember 20mm x 1.5 "Oil Tite" brand. And the "washer area" must be shinny. Like is was polished. The Oil Tite brand is good usually. Don't buy a plug that is dull looking. OH , one more thing. You may wish to use a copper washer instead of the one that come w/the drain plug. That's what I did. All that pressure you know. Just don't go crazy tighening it...big threads in aluminum you know. I did mine right the 1st time no leaks. OR copper plus some RTV when totally clean. Copper allows you to retry should it seep at all. "Copper is reusable". Oh, did I say I have a drill press and cobalt grade bits. You have to drill a 1/8" hole all the way thru. Then drill half way thru for the tapper. Patience is the key here. Edited April 19, 2010 by jasonm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted April 19, 2010 Share #12 Posted April 19, 2010 M20x1.5 is Oil Drain Bolt Dimension, you could look there first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now