straycatt Posted April 17, 2010 #1 Posted April 17, 2010 I ordered an I basket, case gasket, and new lock washer from Partshark.com, 1 week ago today. Mad props to Partshark. The best prices around, fast shipping, and great communication. I received 4 emails from them telling me exactly the status of my order. UPS delivered them today. Also huge thanks to Jeff (Cougar) on this site. I'd sent him a note, asking for some advice and he responded with his TX number and invited me to give him a call. Not only did he give me some good information, but with the owner Joe's (wingrider) permission he mailed to me a clutch tool to use. I'm a fair wrench, but having never been inside an RSV before I wanted to take my time and not miss anything, so it took me about an hour and a half from start to finish. Maybe 20 minutes of that was spent scraping the old gasket off the case. This is an absolutely easy change out. The only snag came when I went to reinstall the clutch cover and spring. I didn't realize at first that you need to compress the clutch actuation rod back into the transmission input shaft before you start bolting the cover and spring into place. I hadn't read where anyone mentioned this in my research, but after playing with for it 15 minutes or so I figured it out. The cover needs to set tight against the disc face. I finished the job just about the time it was starting to rain so I didn't ride far, but the couple mile run around the block was relatively quit. I really won't know for sure but it seems to be about 70% quieter. If this winds up being what I get for my $300, I'm a happy camper. Again thanks to everyone that has helped. Pictures, words, stories, tools, you all made this a lot easier than it might have been. Oh, the basket that was in there was an "G" basket.
Owen Posted April 17, 2010 #2 Posted April 17, 2010 I will second the happy owner of a new I basket! Had mine installed last week and it decreased the noise by 50% and moved it to the 45mph area instead of 65-75mph. Works for me!!
karbar99 Posted April 17, 2010 #4 Posted April 17, 2010 When ordering, how do you know you're getting an "I" basket??
FreezyRider Posted April 17, 2010 #5 Posted April 17, 2010 When ordering, how do you know you're getting an "I" basket?? On the back side of the gear there will be an engraved code that starts with a capital "I". And, the part number above is specifically for the I basket. The stock basket has a different part number.
gibvel Posted April 17, 2010 #6 Posted April 17, 2010 when ordering, how do you know you're getting an "i" basket?? 4xy-16150-09-00
SilvrT Posted April 17, 2010 #7 Posted April 17, 2010 I see you used the "old" style basket tool ... you shoulda got the newer model... works much better... [ATTACH]44072[/ATTACH]
straycatt Posted April 17, 2010 Author #8 Posted April 17, 2010 Something that I noticed between the "G" and "I" baskets was, that with the G basket in place in the engine but with all of the guts removed I could feel zero slop in the basket and crank gear teeth. With the I basket in the same condition I could feel a very small amount of clearance between the two. Perhaps only .001 or .002, but positively there. I'm wondering now if the whine is more due to too tight clearance rather than too loose. This doesn't makes sense, I know, as generally gear sets get louder as they wear. Maybe it's the shape of the teeth.....maybe I should stop thinking about it and just enjoy...
straycatt Posted April 17, 2010 Author #9 Posted April 17, 2010 I see you used the "old" style basket tool ... you shoulda got the newer model... works much better... I was originally trained as a machinist and then a plumber, not a lumberjack. I had thought about devising an, ah, sculpture or I mean tool of my own design. But Jeff offered and I'm happy that he did. It was a no fuss no muss operation with that tool, but anything that works....... It really is a bummer to have to buy single use tools. The end wrench for the steering stem nut, socket for the rear axle nut, socket for the clutch nut, etc.. I spent $15 for a 30mm socket that I may never use on anything else. It's really great when someone will lend you their tools. It's not worth shipping a $15 socket, but an $100 clutch tool? Hecks yes.
LilBeaver Posted April 17, 2010 #10 Posted April 17, 2010 I see you used the "old" style basket tool ... you shoulda got the newer model... works much better... [ATTACH]44072[/ATTACH] :yikes::yikes::yikes: :yikes: :yikes: ITS BACK!!!!!! RUN AWAY!!!!:yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes:
SilvrT Posted April 17, 2010 #11 Posted April 17, 2010 :yikes::yikes::yikes: :yikes: :yikes: ITS BACK!!!!!! RUN AWAY!!!!:yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes: :eek: :eek: :eek: :rotf: :rotf:
Rocket Posted April 17, 2010 #12 Posted April 17, 2010 I It really is a bummer to have to buy single use tools. I spent $15 for a 30mm socket that I may never use on anything else. That socket could possibly, also be used on the swing arm bearing lock nuts. On the 1st gen, the bearing lock nuts are the same size, as the clutch nut.
kbran Posted May 21, 2010 #13 Posted May 21, 2010 Just got back from the dealer and had the I basket installed after four years. That was the first question asked why did it take four years to decide it was so bad. Told them I was to busy riding to bring it in. The mechanic rode it and said it's just the normal chirp but i insisted they put the i basket in and they agreed to. Got to say I am very happy, barely notice it around 40 with out the music on and every were else is pretty quite I'd say about 80%. With the headset music on don't notice it at all and can even turn the IC up and only hear wind noise. I'm happy.
CMIKE Posted May 21, 2010 #14 Posted May 21, 2010 FYI if anyone needs one. Tusk clutch tool $15.99 at Jake Wilson and RockymountainATV.com $7 shipping if that is all you buy...free shipping for $99 order. I just looked and they are still have the E3's rear for $125.99. I put my I basket in a couple of days ago but due to the rain I have not got it out to ride yet. Maybe Saturday. I did notice something while I was in there. The friction plates were not lined up like the instructions say...with the 3 dots. Also rotating disc had perforations on all of them. All I ever dealt with were slick smooth. Everything looked good...no glazing of the friction plates and I check all of them with the caliper and show little or no wear. Rotating disc not discolored...all good. I just wish I had a heavy spring to keep it all tight in there. 16700 miles so far..
Freebird Posted May 23, 2010 #15 Posted May 23, 2010 That looks like a good enough price for the tool. I just ordered one. Never hurts to have such things handy.
RandyR Posted May 26, 2010 #16 Posted May 26, 2010 Is this tool needed to install new plates or springs, or just to remove/replace the hub? I haven't been in the clutch before, so just preparing for the future.
FreezyRider Posted May 26, 2010 #17 Posted May 26, 2010 Is this tool needed to install new plates or springs, or just to remove/replace the hub? I haven't been in the clutch before, so just preparing for the future. Just for removing the clutch basket. You can replace springs and disks without it. Joe
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