Questions about my 83 -

[Godlover]

I have a couple of questions: #1: in the middle of the battery there is a wire coming out that has a resistor or something - I removed it when I took the battery out to charge. What might it be? Second: I need to bleed the clutch but I can't get the bleeder broke loose - any help here? Third: When I bought the bike - we jumped the bike and got it started. I charged it up for a few hours - and when I tried to start it I had a warning light and it just hummed. I had the kickstand down and in neutral. Perhaps the battery needs replaced - I put my volt meter on it and it was reading less then 7 volts - so I'm charging it overnight to see if I can salvage it. Thanks

[Freebird]

The wire you are talking about is the battery level indicator. It does not measure the voltage, only the acid level in the cell. If you have a red battery warning light, it is telling you that the acid level is low.

 

That battery might charge but if it's only reading 7 volts, it may well be shot. Doesn't hurt to try though.

[dingy]

The wire coming out of the battery is the acid level sensor. This is tied to a warning icon on the instrument cluster.

 

Try WD-40 or some type of rust buster on the bleeder screw. It's a pain in the rear if you break it off.

 

What tune is it humming??

 

There are some schematics in the tech section relating to the starting circuits on the bike.

 

Below is the link.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42722

 

Clutch, side stand, neutral, engine stop switches all involved.

 

Gary

[Godlover]

Thanks - If I get a battery do I need to find one with the hole for the level warning or do I drill a hole in the battery. I assume it wouldn't start due to the low voltage - it started the other day when we jumped it.

[Freebird]

You can buy a battery with the hole in it for the sensor or you can go with a newer technology type battery and use this method to bypass it.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=489

[Rocket]

With the stuck bleeder. What I have done before, on a friend's new to him 82 CB750SC, where I had to re-build the calipers & one bleeder was very stuck.

 

I used a 6 point socket, 3/8" - 1/2" adapter & an air impact gun to remove a stuck bleeder. The impact gun seems to work, where an power bar would be more likely to snap it.

 

[Yammer Dan]

With the stuck bleeder. What I have done before, on a friend's new to him 82 CB750SC, where I had to re-build the calipers & one bleeder was very stuck.

 

I used a 6 point socket, 3/8" - 1/2" adapter & an air impact gun to remove a stuck bleeder. The impact gun seems to work, where an power bar would be more likely to snap it.

 

 

 

:sign yeah that: ROCKET IS RIGHT ABOUT THIS ONE.

[Godlover]

Good idea - I don't have an impact......

[Venturous Randy]

It may help to put a little penitrating oil around it. What I would do is take a small hammer and tap on the top of the fitting. With two different metals, corrosion is somewhat normal over a long period of time and by tapping it, it may break the corrosion loose between the threads. You might even peck on it while you are twisting it.

RandyA

[Condor]

Good idea - I don't have an impact......

 

Use quick short bumps on the rachet. DO NOT apply constant pressure or you will snap it. Short and quick is the reason an impact will work....

[Godlover]

Thanks - actually I didn't have to bleed it after all - seems to be working fine. The guy I bought it from told me the clutch needed to be bled. Hmmmmm - He really didn't know much and didn't belong to this forum. If he belonged here I'm sure he would have kept his bike!

[skydoc_17]

Hey Mark,

Good score on your 83'VR! Here is a link to a AGM type High Quality sealed battery for your First Gen. VR:

 

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2742&title=deka-etx-18l-sealed-agm-battery&cat=6

 

Second, remove the clutch master cylinder cover and if the color of the fluid (DOT3 Brake Fluid ONLY) is anything but clear, then you do in fact want to bleed that clutch slave.

Harbor freight sells an Impact Driver for $10.00. I use this tool ALL THE TIME! It will take a metric socket on the end, you will strike it with a hammer and it will duplicate the action of an impact wrench. Best $10.00 you will ever spend. Lastly, do not over fill the clutch master cylinder. Half way up the "fish eye" sight glass on the master is almost too full. When the engine gets hot, the clutch fluid expands and will cause the clutch to slip if the master is too full.

Hope this helps,

Earl

[dingy]

I am going to go out on a limb here and recommend you do not do what Skydoc said in regards to the impact driver.

 

Attached is a picture of the clutch slave cylinder.

 

On the right side is the bleeder screw setting on the long skinny arm.

 

This arm is about 1/2" square and has a hole through it. It is about 1 7/8" long. Aluminum casting.

 

If you hit down on this with a hand impact driver and a hammer with enough force to break bleeder loose, I will put some serious money on the next thing you will be doing is fishing the broken end of that casting out of the bottom of the bike.

 

My suggestion would be to get a 10 mm, 6 point socket. Attach this to a long handle ratchet and somewhat softly, yet firmly, bump the ratchet handle with a hammer. The shock MIGHT loosen the bleeder screw. As best you can hold the socket with free hand to try to reduce the overall rotational twisting action.

 

Do this after letting the bleeder soak in some penetrating oil.

 

I am not an official mechanic, mind you. But I did stay at a Holiday Inn a couple of times.

 

 

Gary

 

[ATTACH]44065[/ATTACH]

[skydoc_17]

Thanks For Reminding Me Gary,

The "strike" on the top of the impact driver is going to be more like a solid tap than a full on crushing blow with a 3 pound mall. After all,we ARE talking about a hollow 8MM bleeder fitting, not a 3/4 inch lug nut. The object of the impact driver is to turn downward force into rotational force, not to center punch that $75.00 slave cylinder off the side of the bike. An Impact Driver is a tool, like any other, it can be used wisely, or cause great damage, it's the operator that makes that decision. Any way you look at it, this is one of those jobs that takes a bit of "finesse".

By the way, did they put a "mint" on your pillow at that Holiday Inn?

Thanks again,

Earl

[warthogcrewchief]

When I've had to deal with stuck hardware in the past (and I deal with them everyday!), sometimes it works to tighten it just a tiny bit...just enough to break the corrosion. Then it should be easy to back out. Be sure not to over-tighten it or it could break off or strip threads. It really is just a tiny bit...enough to put cracks into the corrosion.

[bongobobny]

Gee Earl, I was just going to mention the Deka batteries you are selling!! I have an Odessy and am very happy with it but the Deka is actually slightly better according to specs and testimonies, and a whole lot cheaper...

[skydoc_17]

Thanks Bob,

Now don't get me wrong, The Odessy battery is a fine battery, and at one time was the only AGM type battery that was available for our 1st and 2nd Gens. but the problem I saw with the Odessy is SOMETIMES you got a battery that was over a year old right from the start. The DEKA has higher cranking amps, and the price is much better. Plus, ALL of the batteries I ship are BRAND NEW batteries or I won't ship them. I had a problem with Odessy on this issue and that's why I use the DEKA batteries now.I have been using the DEKA batteries at the shop now for the last 8 months with excellent results, and decided to offer this quality battery to the VR.ORG members so they could enjoy the benifits this battery provides.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2743&title=deka-etx-20l-sealed-agm-battery&cat=7

 

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2742&title=deka-etx-18l-sealed-agm-battery&cat=6

 

Thanks again for the plug,

Earl