Scoot going straight

[emtdouggood]

I did a thread a couple of weeks ago on my bike not wanting to go straight.I changed the steering bearings and it made a world of difference. Thanks for the input and help.

Now that I did that when i left the handlebar lay I got air in the clutch line. Hope that should be an easy fix.

Again thanks for the help.

[Yammer Dan]

I did a thread a couple of weeks ago on my bike not wanting to go straight.I changed the steering bearings and it made a world of difference. Thanks for the input and help.

Now that I did that when i left the handlebar lay I got air in the clutch line. Hope that should be an easy fix.

Again thanks for the help.

Pull clutch lever in to handlebar and tie it down.

Open lid on clutch master and just leave it loose.

In the morning you will have clutch.

Tighten lid back up!! Don't ask!!!

[dingy]

Dan's method did help my brake issue.

 

First you will need to bleed the clutch normally though to get the majority of air out.

 

The bleeder screw is on left side of bike above foot peg. It's under a square black rubber cover, about an 1 1/2" square.

 

In my case, the clutch was easy to bleed.

 

Two person job to do this.

 

Gary

[LilBeaver]

Note that bleeding the clutch is done differently than one would bleed the brakes (unless you have one of those fancy vacuum gizmos).

 

With the clutch, one way to do it is, slowly pump it several times then hold it all the way in and slowly open the bleeder screw (with a hose over the top leading into some containment resevoir, of course). Then, close the bleeder screw, release the clutch lever and repeat.

 

Emphasis on the pump multiple times BEFORE opening the bleeder screw (contrary to doing the brakes where you simply open bleeder valve, pull lever, close bleeder, release lever and repeat).

 

Dan:

Good idea, I would have never thought of that. The only problem with that method that I can think of is the possibility of extra moisture collecting in the reservoir and contaminating the fluid while it is left open. But good fluid with air in the lines is not any better than fluid that will need to be changed sooner.

[Yammer Dan]

Note that bleeding the clutch is done differently than one would bleed the brakes (unless you have one of those fancy vacuum gizmos).

 

With the clutch, one way to do it is, slowly pump it several times then hold it all the way in and slowly open the bleeder screw (with a hose over the top leading into some containment resevoir, of course). Then, close the bleeder screw, release the clutch lever and repeat.

 

Emphasis on the pump multiple times BEFORE opening the bleeder screw (contrary to doing the brakes where you simply open bleeder valve, pull lever, close bleeder, release lever and repeat).

 

Dan:

Good idea, I would have never thought of that. The only problem with that method that I can think of is the possibility of extra moisture collecting in the reservoir and contaminating the fluid while it is left open. But good fluid with air in the lines is not any better than fluid that will need to be changed sooner.

 

 

I always covered the whole master area with a towel when I done this but you are right a little moisture could sneak in there at night. This works better on the clutch than it does the brakes for some reason.

[dingy]

I set just the metal cap on mine, no screws or rubber gasket.

 

It did help.

 

Now just need to reset exhaust valves.

 

Don't think I am going to paint it right away, I want to rid this beast some.

 

Gary

[emtdouggood]

I had a F 150 whitch had a hydro clutch. I worked all day trying to get it bled.With my wife helping made it a joy.I left it set over night with the cap off,next morning i had a clutch.So Dan your idea works on trucks too