Battery Facts

[Chinto]

I am starting to think I may have a weak battery on my 06 RVS (it is the OEM battery) due to the fact that after a ride I have been connecting it to my Battery Tender. I would think it would show full charge very shortly after plugging it in but it takes several hours before that happens. Anyway, I have been looking at some of the replacement battery choices and have become confused by the specification on cold cranking amp ratings which I have thought was an important spec to look for.

 

Example:

Odyessy PC545 lists 185 CCA but somehow can muster 545 amps 5 sec 495 amps 10secs and 420 amps 20 secs

Other batteries usually show

270 CCA which would seem better (bigger is better?) than 185 CCA but nothing about "pulse crank amps" Do they all have this rating?

 

According to Odyessy theirs is the best battery you can buy just like what the other manufactures say eg. Yuasa, Dexa, Big Crank, Walmart etc.

 

So what am I missing here, what are the most important specs to look for besides price. They can't all be of equal quality can they? The price range is $50 to $110 so we are only talking about $50 difference between the cheapest and most expensive. What I care about is a battery that has exceptional reliablity and long life. I hate equipment failure on the road.

 

Thanks for your help

[Yammer Dan]

You could have just gone ahead and ask about OIL!!:rotfl:

 

 

This is a good question. I'm getting ready to do the battery thing again. Have always just ended up buying Wally-Worlds what ever available. Thought I might go with glass-mat this time. I think cranking amps is big. But what else?

[Wanderer]

You could have just gone ahead and ask about OIL!!:rotfl:

 

 

This is a good question. I'm getting ready to do the battery thing again. Have always just ended up buying Wally-Worlds what ever available. Thought I might go with glass-mat this time. I think cranking amps is big. But what else?

 

O.K., I'll ask: What kind of oil should I use? :rotf:

[mike_kelly_68]

"...due to the fact that after a ride I have been connecting it to my Battery Tender."

 

How often do you ride? If you are riding at least once a week you should not have to use your tender. You should only have to use the tender for prolonged storage. I have been able to let the bike sit for about two months and not had any trouble with the battery going down. (until recently when the battery dropped a cell)

[gibvel]

"...due to the fact that after a ride I have been connecting it to my Battery Tender."

 

How often do you ride? If you are riding at least once a week you should not have to use your tender. You should only have to use the tender for prolonged storage. I have been able to let the bike sit for about two months and not had any trouble with the battery going down. (until recently when the battery dropped a cell)

 

Well that explains it... Why do you think it dropped a cell?

[Chinto]

I will ride several times per week anywhere from 20 to 100 miles per ride. Last season if I would plug the battery tender in (only when gone for a while) the battery would show full charge within a few minutes. This is why I am looking into a replacement battery. I think it is starting to fail. So like the classic questions before which oil, tire, wax, etc I would like some thoughts on which battery based on battery specifications or your experience because the price spread is pretty low ($20-$50). I am more interested in getting exceptional reliability and long life from the new battery.

[Snaggletooth]

Check out Skydoc_17 post.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47470&highlight=deka

 

The DEKA is Amercian made and one tough battery. Better CCA than the Odessy. I've had one over a year now with great results.

 

For the money Earl is asking you won't find a better performing battery.

 

I promise you.....the tender will be a thing of the past.

 

Mike

Edited April 14, 2010 by Snaggletooth

[Sylvester]

I have had the same battery in my Venture for the last 5 1/2 years without incident, but I am going to order the Deka since I know I am running on empty. My tender lights up fairly quickly to signify full charge, but it is a matter of time and I don't want to be left stranded.

 

[hig4s]

O.K., I'll ask: What kind of oil should I use? :rotf:

 

 

Olive!!! it tastes better!!

[Yammer Dan]

How often do you change the battery oil???

[LilBeaver]

How often do you change the battery oil???

 

Not as often as I replace my turn signal fluid.

[Chinto]

Don't forget to change the air in your tires. Fall/Winter air in Cruisers must be changed to Spring/Summer air for best performance. High performance bikes like the V Max, Busa should be changed monthly for optimum performance.

[Ponch]

Don't forget to change the air in your tires. Fall/Winter air in Cruisers must be changed to Spring/Summer air for best performance. High performance bikes like the V Max, Busa should be changed monthly for optimum performance.

 

Think Nitrogen........

[flb_78]

Think Nitrogen........

 

 

I find that using 78% nitrogen works best for me.

[Double D]

OK, I still have the original battery in my 06 Midnight and after I let it sit for about a month without starting and did not put a tender on it, I thought it was time to buy a new battery. Well I put it on a charger and put a full charge in the battery and since then I have not had a problem. It starts on the first push of the button. Should I be preparing to buy a battery? If so How soon? Should I plan to get one before MD? Enquiring minds what to know.

[MikeWa]

CCA 'cold cranking amps' and 'ampere hour' are the two things to watch out for. They equate to 'how strong' and 'how long'. But above all there is quality of construction. Unfortunately I know of no standard measurement for that other than referrals.

Mike

[Chinto]

OK, I still have the original battery in my 06 Midnight and after I let it sit for about a month without starting and did not put a tender on it, I thought it was time to buy a new battery. Well I put it on a charger and put a full charge in the battery and since then I have not had a problem. It starts on the first push of the button. Should I be preparing to buy a battery? If so How soon? Should I plan to get one before MD? Enquiring minds what to know.

 

 

You are in the same boat as I am. The battery is 4-5 years old depending on when the bike was manufactured. Bike batteries tend to just die, do you wait to get every last ounce of power out of it and accept inconvenient failure? Or bite the bullet. The question is will the current battery make the entire season?????

[saddlebum]

check out this link to battery facts very interesting

http://www.batteryfaq.org/

[Yammer Dan]

Interstate Battery told me yesterday they have a Glass-Mat now. 350 CCA for 100 bucks and right here at home. (if I go to visit Skid) And Somebody gets adiscount there.

[mike_kelly_68]

We just had this discussion at work the other day. Why is it that usually a small frame battery will not last as long and when it does go why does is roll over and die, there is no nursing it.

 

 

I have been stranded by a bike battery. I prefer to change it at the first sign of trouble.

[Chinto]

check out this link to battery facts very interesting

http://www.batteryfaq.org/

 

 

Thanks, Great information. I found this tidbit of info there that points out that a failing battery can harm the charging system. I had not thought of that consequence. I remember a member recently reporting that he replaced his failed battery and later discovered his charging system was bad too. Which caused what???? Maybe it is not a got idea to wait til the battery is dead before you replace it. It may cost a lot more than a new battery.

 

14.13. MYTH: Bad batteries can harm the charging system or starter. True! A bad or weak starting battery causes additional stress on a charging system, starter motor or starter solenoid. It can cause premature failures due to compensating for the voltage or current. If you replace a battery, alternator, voltage regulator or starter, you should test the other components for damage and repair or replace them as required.

[Double D]

:bang head:This all brings us back to the original question:bang head:--Should I get a new battery now or wait? I bought the bike in December 2005, it starts like it did when I first got it BUT it is 5 years old.

[short-haul]

double d

Have it load tested it is the best way to tell a battery cond. IMOA

[Two Tone White]

:bang head:This all brings us back to the original question:bang head:--Should I get a new battery now or wait? I bought the bike in December 2005, it starts like it did when I first got it BUT it is 5 years old.

 

 

Buy a new battery. Buy the Deka. You won't be sorry.

 

Or, you can continue to hem and haw and contemplate and analyze and roll the dice. Maybe you will get lucky and it will last another 3-5 years or perhaps eternity and you will save $60 to $120.

 

[saddlebum]

Thanks, Great information. I found this tidbit of info there that points out that a failing battery can harm the charging system. I had not thought of that consequence. I remember a member recently reporting that he replaced his failed battery and later discovered his charging system was bad too. Which caused what???? Maybe it is not a got idea to wait til the battery is dead before you replace it. It may cost a lot more than a new battery.

 

14.13. MYTH: Bad batteries can harm the charging system or starter. True! A bad or weak starting battery causes additional stress on a charging system, starter motor or starter solenoid. It can cause premature failures due to compensating for the voltage or current. If you replace a battery, alternator, voltage regulator or starter, you should test the other components for damage and repair or replace them as required.

Actually it can work both ways. A defective battery can overtax a charging system. On the other hand an overcharging sytem can boil a battery destroying it, or an undercharging system can result in a battery having to perform in a weakend state, resulting in a shortened life span.