HID headlight installed

[twigg]

HMMMM maybe I'll go with the 55w then. Like I said I'm currently running the Wagner 80w100 "off road" bulb now. So certainly if I go even to the 55w HID I'm lowering my draw right? The passing lights I dont see the HID's in my future, cost is prohibitive. LED's would be an option but cost is high there too and also reports of radio interfearence. I did find a pair of take off passing lamps from a HD that were of the reflector and bulb being seperate type. But I'm figuring the sealed beam type is least expensive. Will going to the halogen sealed beams get rid of the "yellow" beam? While 55w passing lights would be nice I'm thinking the load will be a bit much unless I run new wires. Also the load on the alternator would go up, no?

 

The "colour" of the beam has little to do with the type of lamp. and everything to do with "Colour Temperature"

 

Virtually all factory installations run 4300k bulbs. This is simply because it represents the best "light on the road", without going yellow.

 

From there they tend to go 5000k, 6000k and on up to about 12000k (the blue ones that youngsters feel are way cool, when they are actually "way hot", and throw much less light than stock).

 

If you want simply to see well, stick to either 4300k or 5000k bulbs ... 6000k aren't bad. Any higher is a waste of time and attracts unwanted attention from State Troopers.

 

If you insist on 50W HID units then buy name-brand. These will be expensive, but pushing 50W out of cheap ballasts, with cheap bulbs is an invitation to a failure when you need it least.

 

HID "bulbs" do not dim with age ... they get hotter. That is, the colour temperature rises until they fail. The ones that do this the least are the Phillips D2S. They are also the most expensive at about $50 each (They last a long time).

 

If you are running an 80.100W halogen, you should already have upgraded the wiring. Stock wiring, even when new, is frequently running it's limit at 60W. Use a really and wire directly from the battery or an ignition on source.

 

You shouldn't have any stator issues with any of these set-ups.

[djh3]

THanks Yea was thinking of the 6000 as max, probably the 5000. While the bluer light looks cool, as I have read and you said I'm not gaining anything by it. If the 35w is like 4 times better then the stock 60w or whatever it is that should be plenty I think. Now the research on the driving/passing halogen sealed beams. Cause even now with the headlight I have they almost look like amber fog lights.

[twigg]

THanks Yea was thinking of the 6000 as max, probably the 5000. While the bluer light looks cool, as I have read and you said I'm not gaining anything by it. If the 35w is like 4 times better then the stock 60w or whatever it is that should be plenty I think. Now the research on the driving/passing halogen sealed beams. Cause even now with the headlight I have they almost look like amber fog lights.

 

Mine is 4300k, because the folk I bought it from gave you a choice.

 

I'm going to recommend these people, because they sell good stuff, at a modest price, and responded very fast to a minor problem I had:

 

http://www.theretrofitsource.com

[ChrisFrench]

J'utilise le HID H4-3 depuis 3 ans.

Monté sur 1ere gen et RSV sans aucun problème.

 

ATTENTION!!! tous les H4 ne sont pas identiques. Il faut commander un H4-3.

 

Aujourd'hui, il n'est pas nécessaire de tirer un fil depuis la batterie. Il existe un cablage plug and play appelé " easy relay"

 

I use the HID H4-3 for 3 years.

Mounted on the first gen and RSV without any problems.

 

WARNING! all H4 are not identical. You must order a H4-3.

 

Today, it is not necessary to pull a wire from the battery. There is a plug and play wiring called "easy relay"

 

Chris.

 

http://www.oliverking.fr/kit-moto-h4-bi-xenon,fr,4,KITH4BISLIM1AMP.cfm

[djh3]

ChrisFrench: Well if I ordered this kit the shipping would cost more than the kit.

 

 

What bulbs are you all going with? I think the bi-xeon is the way to go. HID for both hi and Lo. The other way all you get is an HID on low beam and the Hi is a halogen like I'm running now if I read the info right.

Edited April 5, 2012 by djh3

[djh3]

Looking around found this kit. Krypton bulbs.com $50 Still looking for posts of why to use the non-bi-zenon. Seems to me if your gonna go HID go all the way and have a hi beam HID also.

[twigg]

Looking around found this kit. Krypton bulbs.com $50 Still looking for posts of why to use the non-bi-zenon. Seems to me if your gonna go HID go all the way and have a hi beam HID also.

 

Well you are correct. The reason is that some vehicles have separate lights for low and high beam.

[djh3]

I did have a thought on this changeover yesterday riding home from my sons. If you go with the std type kits that have the halogen hi beam, could you still run a modulator on it? If its a halogen bulb its not running thru the transformer thing right?

[twigg]

I did have a thought on this changeover yesterday riding home from my sons. If you go with the std type kits that have the halogen hi beam, could you still run a modulator on it? If its a halogen bulb its not running thru the transformer thing right?

 

If you pay attention to the wiring, and ONLY the high bean circuit is modulated, I see no reason why this shouldn't work.

[djh3]

Well I'm really looking into info on the 35w vs 55w now. I found some 55w kits on e-bay with slim ballest for same price as 35w. I have read if running the 55w folks recomend running thru a relay. Also have read that you need to put basicly an "on/off" switch in the set up even with the 35w due to something about not enough power when you roll the starter over for the lamps to kick off. The bulb I'm looking at is 6000k should be OK right? Probably take more time to run wires/relay/switch then doing the kit. lol

[twigg]

Well I'm really looking into info on the 35w vs 55w now. I found some 55w kits on e-bay with slim ballest for same price as 35w. I have read if running the 55w folks recomend running thru a relay. Also have read that you need to put basicly an "on/off" switch in the set up even with the 35w due to something about not enough power when you roll the starter over for the lamps to kick off. The bulb I'm looking at is 6000k should be OK right? Probably take more time to run wires/relay/switch then doing the kit. lol

 

35W or 55W ... any kit you use will come with a harness to wire directly to the battery, or a switched source, and a relay.

 

You need to wire it so that it comes on with the ignition, but can be switched independently. I use a switch that interrupts the ground side.

 

When you hit the starter the battery voltage can fall below the threshold voltage for the ballast. If that happens the light will go out until it is power cycled, leaving you in the same position you were in when you started.

 

The kits are fine ... 6000k is a little hot, but should be fine. 5000 or 4300k is better if that is an option.

 

The retrofit kits work, and they will give you more light than you have now, and for longer. The better option is a full upgrade to a Projector, if you have room for one, and are prepared to do the conversion. I did, and I wouldn't ever go back.

[djh3]

Do I need to look at the code elminator thing? I thought I had all the questions asked in last post. lol I was thinking of using the exsiting power wire to headlight as power to the relay and a switch on it the fire relay. I supose I could use the relay to complete the ground to the system doing the same thing right? Ground for unit to relay-realy to ground and the power wire for relay somewhere off key side I guess. While I'm at it I am going to look into the relay addition to the passing lites, maybe just build a decent harness for it and feed direct off battery to instead of thru headlight circuit. I guess I'm looking for an answer from folks that know. I will just be putting it into the stock RSV headlight not changing over to frog eye or whatever projector lens. Is it worth going to the 55w over the 35w? I have been reading some info googled on yahoo, but most is tuner guys and its sort of a 50/50 wash to go 55w or not to.

Edited April 9, 2012 by djh3

[twigg]

Do I need to look at the code elminator thing? I thought I had all the questions asked in last post. lol I was thinking of using the exsiting power wire to headlight as power to the relay and a switch on it the fire relay. I supose I could use the relay to complete the ground to the system doing the same thing right? Ground for unit to relay-realy to ground and the power wire for relay somewhere off key side I guess. While I'm at it I am going to look into the relay addition to the passing lites, maybe just build a decent harness for it and feed direct off battery to instead of thru headlight circuit.

 

I have no idea what the "code eliminator thing" is.

 

If you intend using the original bulb connector .... and you probably should .... with a bi-xenon kit, then you need to completely by-pass the Reserve Lighting Unit.

 

If you do not do this the unit will go crazy thinking that bulbs have blown. It will then send voltage to the wrong place either damaging your HID kit, or not dipping and raising the beam correctly.

 

It's an easy job, search the site for instructions.

[djh3]

OH crap. If I have to chop up something to make the switch, Ill have to put this on hold. Bike is still under warranty so I dont want to do anything that is going to foul that up.

[twigg]

OH crap. If I have to chop up something to make the switch, Ill have to put this on hold. Bike is still under warranty so I dont want to do anything that is going to foul that up.

 

No chopping necessary.

 

Just mount a switch on a small bracket under the right-hand switchgear. Use the bolt that holds the switch together.

[djh3]

I have a place for a switch, its the by pass thing I'm not sure about. So far I haven found anything about needing to do this. I'm looking thru our fourms right now, but so far nothing under "reserve lighting". I currently have a switch mounted to turn off or by pass my modulator.

[twigg]

I have a place for a switch, its the by pass thing I'm not sure about. So far I haven found anything about needing to do this. I'm looking thru our fourms right now, but so far nothing under "reserve lighting". I currently have a switch mounted to turn off or by pass my modulator.

 

You have an RSV .... I do not know if that model has one.

 

Have to wait for those with the RSV expertise to chime in. On the 1st Gen, when you bypass the RLU all the alterations are reversible.

[djh3]

Yea maybe we got our wires crossed. As far as the Gen 2 is conserned I havent seen anything about that. Sorry about that. It had me flustered for awhile there.

[djh3]

OK everything is installed and works. What did you all do with the rubber weather seal that goes on the back around the bulb? It will not go over the bi-xenon bulb. Did you cut it out so it fits? Thats the only thing I could think of. Right now I havent put the fairing back together awaiting an answer. I also fixed the cheap a$$ passing light set up. My fuse holder was melted and disintagrated when I even tried to look at the fuse. Now its on a realy and has a proper fuse.

 

OK never mind. No way was the seal going to fit around it. First I slit it and no go. I ended up trimming around to fit the bulb. No easy way to go about it. Trial and error. OEM hole size was like .820 and bulb part I was trying to get around was .970 so I had to cut it. Seems to be OK.

Edited April 27, 2012 by djh3

[MikeM]

My first experience with HID was when I converted a set of 4" spotlights to use as aux driving lights on a old goldwing. When the 55w H-3 Kit arrived there were two different bulbs in the kit. One marked 5000K (what I ordered)and the other 6000K. I contacted the seller and he thought it might be a mistake in marking on the tubes the bulbs came in and for me to try them and see. I did and the bulbs were different. The 6000K seemed to have a slight blue tint compared to the 5000k BUT, what I noticed was the 6000K made the deer and feral hogs show up farther away and clearer than the 5000K. That was enough for me and I swapped the 5000k for another 6000k.

I liked the HID lights so much I ordered a 6000k bi-xenon H4 car kit and a extra wire harness (cheaper than two motorcycle kits)and converted the headlights on both the goldwing and the RSV.

I didn't have to modify the rubber boot on either bike.

I didn't put a switch inline and if I hit the starter as soon as I turn on the bike,sometimes the headlight will go out.

I found if I turn on the bike then wait about 5 seconds before I hit the starter that everything is fine.

I think it's a combination of the power draw when the balast are starting up and the draw from the starter that causes the draw to be too much and the HID system shuts down.

Edited April 28, 2012 by MikeM

[djh3]

What I have noticed on mine is much like you say. Turn key on and light flashes, start bike and light comes on. I dont know if its hurting anything or not.

I have had a conversation with a fellow RSV rider on anothr board and he reminded me that if I were to do the passing/driving lights that the power wire is to large to go inside the tube and be hidden.Also might not be long enough either.

[djh3]

Well been a couple weeks now since I did the conversion. I will say the light seems to be brighter but I dont think it is aimed as well as my 80/100w. I took it out last night an rode a little around the neighborhood. I had just set the light 4 or 5 days before I took it apart for the conversion. I had to turn the beam down some to make it where it looked like it was hitting the road and being useful. Maybe I just need to get use to it.

[Flyinfool]

I have never changed a bulb and not had to readjust the headlight aiming.

[djh3]

Like I said. I adjusted it with a "standard" type bulb but of the 80/100w version. That thing was killer. But got worried the more I trolled around here that it was going to cause some sort of nuclar meltdown in the headlight wiring because it had so much draw. So I converted to HID and last night when I took it out for a spin in dark it just seemed off. Maybe its just me. When I aligned the light I did as was recomended in a write up here. 17ft back mark a surface 2-3 inchec lower so on and so on. Last night was just "what I could see" on the road.

Does the wiring pic look right? Thats the best I could understand way to do it. Thanks for your help.

[twigg]

Like I said. I adjusted it with a "standard" type bulb but of the 80/100w version. That thing was killer. But got worried the more I trolled around here that it was going to cause some sort of nuclar meltdown in the headlight wiring because it had so much draw. So I converted to HID and last night when I took it out for a spin in dark it just seemed off. Maybe its just me. When I aligned the light I did as was recomended in a write up here. 17ft back mark a surface 2-3 inchec lower so on and so on. Last night was just "what I could see" on the road.

Does the wiring pic look right? Thats the best I could understand way to do it. Thanks for your help.

 

It's simply the case that the HID bulb is putting out about 2 1/2X the amount of light of your previous bulb.

 

If the results are disappointing it is because all that light is not going where it is supposed to.

 

Crucial is that the bulb remains exactly at the focal point of the headlight reflector, and some are better at this than others. It's complicated by the fact that the bulb moves in the Bi-Xenon kits, and it can't be in the right place in both positions.

 

Those kits, and I have one too on one of my bikes, are an improvement over what you had, but how much of an improvement depends on a number of things.

 

If you really want to see what HID can do, you need either dedicated lights, or a projector. The projector route isn't too complicated, and it addresses all of the common issues .... and lights up the night