Draincock position

[Guest seuadr]

ok, so my water light keeps comming on. I've been reading back through the 1st gen forum and i've seen 3 different positions that the valve is said to need to be at.

 

one person said that it should have off pointed at the 5 o'clock position. another pointed out 2 o'clock, and someone said off pointing to the 10 o'clock position .. anyone know for sure?

 

i know i'm building pressure (although i don't have the tool to measure the specific amount) and my radiator is full, as well as the bottle in the fairing being over half full.

 

so the only areas i'm not sure about are the tubes, and if the valve is letting water through. it's been cold enough that the thermostat gauge doesn't even move, so i can't tell that way.

[painterman67]

cant remember which way mine is pointing but the way I finally figured it out was to take it out and look at it. There is a hole which I lined up with the lines . it was easy to figure it out once I pulled it out and looked at the flow path. Be carefull of that little ball. It took me forever to find it and the spring behind it. down side of this method is you loose the coolant. But I was flkushing it anyways so it was no big deal. If you are still kneed ing this answer when I get home friday I will go out and take a pic for you. as I remeber it is pointed to 2 oclock.

 

 

David

[Snaggletooth]

The run position will be "OFF" at 2'oclock. To drain the system and bypass the thermo it needs to be set with the "ON" at the 2 o'clock mark. You should feel the detent click in when it hits the right spot.

[Snaggletooth]

It's your lucky day. Just happen to have mine on the bench tonight. Don't ask why.

 

Like I said "ON" to drain and bypass the thermo as in the 1st pic.

 

"OFF" is the normal running position in the 2nd pic.

 

Both are set at the 2 o'clock position and lock in with the detent.

 

Is your radiator and over flow tank full? If the system is low on coolant you will not get a reading on the gauge.

 

When the motor is cold you can open the radiator cap and set the drain to "ON" and start the motor. If the water pump is working correctly you will see rapid flow of coolant moving through the core. Remember .....the thermo is bypassed at the this setting.

 

In a crunch......if you would ever over heat because the thermo is stuck shut, changing the setting to "ON" will get you home or until you can change the thermo for a new one.

 

With the drain set at "OFF" you won't see that until motor is warmer up and the thermo opens up. Take my word for it......check it cold. LOL!

 

And don't rev the motor with the cap off. You'll be changing your shoes.

 

Mike

[Guest seuadr]

alright, thanks!

 

my radiator and resivor are both full, and i have the valve at the right setting. i'll have to check and see a bout water flow. I guess if it's flowing then it must just be the sensor?

 

is that easy to get to to test?

[Black Owl]

I would suggest that the first thing you might want to check is the bayonet connection in the conductor (wire) to the temp guage. The bayonet connection has a nasty habit of becoming disconnected.

If memory serves me, the conductor is routed inside the faring on the right side of the scoot. Will most probably be a white conductor.

If I am wrong on the placement or color, I'm sure someone will jump in here and steer you in the right direction.

[dingy]

Here is a closeup of thermostat and fan connections.

 

Red arrow is the fan motor switch.

 

Green arrow is the temp gauge connector.

 

Blue arrow is ground connection for temp gauge circuit

 

Also, there is a ground wire that attaches to this casting that is on top of the unit, just behind the white plug that is hanging there.

 

Both the ground & temp gauge are Butt connectors.

 

Wire to temp gauge on my 88 is Green/Red tracer.

 

Picture is with the right side inner & outer fairings removed.

 

Gary

 

http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5619s.jpg

[Guest seuadr]

well, installed the new oring on the draincock, and that stopped the leak. The fan switch definitally works, and the thermostat does too. the temp gauge connection was filthy disgusting, so i cleaned that up and it works good. got a good solid continuity to ground from the other side of the contact for the water sensor, so i have to suspect that the sensor itself is bad.

 

anyone change one of those?

[dingy]

well, installed the new oring on the draincock, and that stopped the leak. The fan switch definitally works, and the thermostat does too. the temp gauge connection was filthy disgusting, so i cleaned that up and it works good. got a good solid continuity to ground from the other side of the contact for the water sensor, so i have to suspect that the sensor itself is bad.

 

anyone change one of those?

 

You should be able to ground the sensor lead and get a full deflection on the dash gauge.

 

The sensor is a temperature controlled variable resistor inside.

 

Unplug the wire that the green arrow is pointing to in the picture I posted above, and ground it.

 

I just tried this on mine and it did give a full hot needle deflection on the gauge.

 

If you verify that circuit works, then it is most likely a bad sensor.

 

Also verify that the ground to the aluminum casting the sensor is screwed into is in fact grounded. This is the wire pointed to by the Blue arrow. It must have this ground wire attached and functioning. The casting is isolated from ground due to the hose connections. The ground on the fan circuit is unrelated to the Temp sender circuit.

 

Gary

[Rocket]

You should be able to ground the sensor lead and get a full deflection on the dash gauge.

 

Gary

 

That is, if the needle is above the pin, on the gauge. A few members, have been caught by that one, after having the dash apart & the needle was below the pin.

[Venturous Randy]

 

Thanks snaggletooth for the pictures. I have always used the 5:00 comment as that is much easier to see. But my comment is that is where the TOPS OF THE LETTERS point to and that is exactly what your pictures show for the proper run position.

RandyA