Venturedad hitch & single wheel trailer

[jarrejx]

Thanx to the help of several venturerider members and the delphi motorcycle trailer forum, I am in the final stages of my single wheel trailer build. The trailer consists of a plastic Delta Truck Toolbox bolted onto a Milwaukee hand truck with 250# rated torsion axle and 8" wheel. It weighs approximately 90# (empty) and is 100 inches in total length (hitch to end of fender). I expect when fully loaded with my expected cargo, it will weigh somewhere in the neighborhood of 160-180#. The total trailer height is approx. 34 inches and the width is 20 inches, so it tucks neatly behind the bike.

 

I have given it several test rides and it pulls effortlessly and tracks as advertised with the bike. Recently I read the following post on delphi forum:

 

 

"With all the folks that seem to be building or thinking about building 1 wheel trailers, something came to mind that I thought I would mention for those to give some thought to.

If you are going to tow a 1 wheel please make sure your hitch is up to the task. A 1 wheel will inpart forces on the hitch that a 2 wheel does not. Please make sure your hitch choice can handle the twist forces that a 1 wheel applys to the hitch.

Most hitches I have seen are made to pull a 2 wheel and may not work safely with a 1 wheel the way they come. Now some may be fine and others may need to be modified a bit to make them safe."

 

 

I have a Venturedad hitch on my 2000 RSV and after each test ride it appeared to remain straight and secure upon visual inspection. My question to those who have experience pulling single wheels or those with other inside info., is this hitch up to task of pulling a single wheel trailer or what modification may be needed to make it so. My limited knowledge says I am OK, however, I would like the opinions of others with more experience and knowledge on the subject.

 

Thanx,

 

Jerry

Edited April 7, 2010 by jarrejx
there is only one wheel on a single wheel trailer...duh

[BJB]

Jerry

Not trying to hijack your thread, but I am thinking of building a singe wheeled trailer for my ride also. ANY pics and advise would surely be helpful...especially pics. Tell me more about your torsion axle. Thanks.

 

Barry

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Hello again Jerry. I think the Venturedad hitch would be up to the task assuming you didnt have a LOT of twisting torque on it. I can see the authors point about some of the large one wheel trailers, especially if they are fairly tall and have lots of weight up high.

 

I would think that your design should be ok, assuming you dont haul lots of heavy items, or load it vertically.

 

Have you encountered the problem with slack in the receiver hitch?

 

I have a couple of ideas about that if so.

 

Later!

 

 

 

 

 

[jarrejx]

Jerry

Not trying to hijack your thread, but I am thinking of building a singe wheeled trailer for my ride also. ANY pics and advise would surely be helpful...especially pics. Tell me more about your torsion axle. Thanks.

 

Barry

 

No problem, Barry. I took quite a few pics of my build in progress and have posted some of them on the delphi motorcycle trailer towing forum. This link should get you there and to my photobucket album. Also included in the thread is a link to the torsion axle I used.

 

 

http://forums.delphiforums.com/MCTrailertowing/messages?msg=7435.1

 

I don't think you have to be a member to view the thread. But if you have a problem, let me know and I will put photobucket link here.

 

I planned on posting entire build experience in one thread on this forum, as soon as I had the finishing touches completed. Should be all settled in next couple of days.

 

Jerry

[jarrejx]

Hello again Jerry. I think the Venturedad hitch would be up to the task assuming you didnt have a LOT of twisting torque on it. I can see the authors point about some of the large one wheel trailers, especially if they are fairly tall and have lots of weight up high.

 

I would think that your design should be ok, assuming you dont haul lots of heavy items, or load it vertically.

 

Have you encountered the problem with slack in the receiver hitch?

 

I have a couple of ideas about that if so.

 

Later!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello Brian. Thanx for all of your assistance and as always, you are right on the money with the slack discussion. I guess-timate there is about 3-10 degrees of movement in the hitch with the trailer mounted to the bike. I know that some movement is a good thing, but this may need some reduction. Thought about welding some metal spacers on the hitch receiver to reduce movement. What would you suggest?

 

If I can, I will post a video clip of the movement and you can tell me if you think it needs a fix.

 

Thanx again,

 

Jerry

[Squidley]

Jerry,

I see that your using a U-joint for the pivot, this will take a lot of that twisting away as it gives the motion a place to go and be absorbed. The Venturedad hitch is pretty solid, and the mounts are tied into the entire rear end section of the bikes fender and frame. As long as your concious about how you pack it and where to distribute the weight I dont think it will be an issue. You might also want to contact Dray on the site here as he and have talked extensively over the phone on building a single wheel trailer. He is almost done with his

[jarrejx]

Jerry,

 

...You might also want to contact Dray on the site here as he and have talked extensively over the phone on building a single wheel trailer. He is almost done with his

 

Glad to know I have been talking to the right person. Dray is included in the members of this site I thanked at the top of this thread. He has provided me a great deal of valuable insight into my build.

 

It was through Dray that I obtained the hitch coupler. The machinist that made his had made an extra one and I purchased that one from him.

 

Jerry

[Guest tx2sturgis]

I guess-timate there is about 3-10 degrees of movement in the hitch with the trailer mounted to the bike. I know that some movement is a good thing, but this may need some reduction. Thought about welding some metal spacers on the hitch receiver to reduce movement. What would you suggest?

 

If I can, I will post a video clip of the movement and you can tell me if you think it needs a fix.

 

Thanx again,

 

Jerry

 

Slack is not a problem when pulling a 2 wheel trailer, other than the noise now and then. But pulling a one wheeler, you need to eliminate it, to keep from having any wobbling or instability issues. I have been told by a one wheel trailer manufacturer personally that he recommends a simple mod to the receiver tube:

 

Take it off and have a welding or machine shop, ( or do it yourself), drill an approx 1/2 inch hole on the bottom of the tube, centered, and to the rear of, the hitch pin holes. Have them weld on a 3/8 x 24 flange nut over the hole, making sure the welds do not intrude into the receiver tube interior.

 

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/318WAqsxuOL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

 

Then remount the hitch, insert the ballmount shank, and install the hitch pins. Now insert a 3/8 x 24 hex head bolt with a 3/8 x 24 locknut into the welded-on flangenut, and tighten it all up. Tighten the locknut on the bolt against the flangenut, to keep the bolt from loosening. This will act as a 'setscrew' arangement and keep things tight. Of course you will need to keep a crescent (or combination) wrench handy to remove the shank.

 

You COULD get fancy and grind a blunt point on the 3/8 x 24 bolt, and possibly use stainless hardware and/or lockwashers...

 

 

 

Edited April 5, 2010 by tx2sturgis

[Squidley]

Glad to know I have been talking to the right person. Dray is included in the members of this site I thanked at the top of this thread. He has provided me a great deal of valuable insight into my build.

 

It was through Dray that I obtained the hitch coupler. The machinist that made his had made an extra one and I purchased that one from him.

 

Jerry

 

 

 

That'll work, Dray is good people

Brians suggestion is a good one too that will keep the slop out of the reciever.

[jarrejx]

Slack is not a problem when pulling a 2 wheel trailer, other than the noise now and then. But pulling a one wheeler, you need to eliminate it, to keep from having any wobbling or instability issues. I have been told by a one wheel trailer manufacturer personally that he recommends a simple mod to the receiver tube:

 

Take it off and have a welding or machine shop, ( or do it yourself), drill an approx 1/2 inch hole on the bottom of the tube, centered, and to the rear of, the hitch pin holes. Have them weld on a 3/8 x 24 flange nut over the hole, making sure the welds do not intrude into the receiver tube interior.

 

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/318WAqsxuOL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

 

Then remount the hitch, insert the ballmount shank, and install the hitch pins. Now insert a 3/8 x 24 hex head bolt with a 3/8 x 24 locknut into the welded-on flangenut, and tighten it all up. Tighten the locknut on the bolt against the flangenut, to keep the bolt from loosening. This will act as a 'setscrew' arangement and keep things tight. Of course you will need to keep a crescent (or combination) wrench handy to remove the shank.

 

You COULD get fancy and grind a blunt point on the 3/8 x 24 bolt, and possibly use stainless hardware and/or lockwashers...

 

 

 

 

I will visit the weld shop tomorrow and see if he can follow these directions. Sounds like it will work. But wouldn't it be easier to weld some small metal shims around the collar of the receiver tube to get a nice tight fit when the shank is inserted. If so, wouldn't have to bother with tightening and loosening the "setscrew" What do you think?

 

Thanx again for your time and advice.

 

Jerry

[Guest tx2sturgis]

I will visit the weld shop tomorrow and see if he can follow these directions. Sounds like it will work. But wouldn't it be easier to weld some small metal shims around the collar of the receiver tube to get a nice tight fit when the shank is inserted. If so, wouldn't have to bother with tightening and loosening the "setscrew" What do you think?

 

Thanx again for your time and advice.

 

Jerry

Shimming it will work...for awhile, but as the hitchpin and hitchpin opening wears, (and it will!) it will begin to loosen, and start rattling...might last 100 miles...might last 10,000...and how are you going to get the fit exactly right? Maybe some kind of rubber bushing? But then we're back to possible wobble. It's up to you of course.

 

You might be able to use some sort of rubber bushing or insert. As I explained in the previous post, this was an idea shared with me by someone else, who makes one wheel trailers.

 

Let us know how it turns out.

 

 

 

[Thistledown]

I have a Venture dad hitch annd a single wheel (Unigo ) trailer that I have pulled I would guess about 3000 miles. I used a nut on the stinger as well as threading it in to remove all slop. All seem to work fine, I have hauled with 70lbs of camp gear and also made a new lid with a false floor and windshield to haul my two Border Terriers. Works great. If i knew how to post a few pictures i would

[jarrejx]

... As I explained in the previous post, this was an idea shared with me by someone else, who makes one wheel trailers.

 

Let us know how it turns out.

 

 

 

 

I guess I should listen to those who know, like I said I would in the opening post. I'll definitely let you know how it turns out. Thanx again,

 

Jerry

[Guest tx2sturgis]

I have a Venture dad hitch annd a single wheel (Unigo ) trailer that I have pulled I would guess about 3000 miles. I used a nut on the stinger as well as threading it in to remove all slop. All seem to work fine, I have hauled with 70lbs of camp gear and also made a new lid with a false floor and windshield to haul my two Border Terriers. Works great. If i knew how to post a few pictures i would

 

I had also thought about a locking collar of some kind, with threading on the shank ( stinger) so that the large collar or nut could be screwed down tight against the receiver tube.

 

BTW...do those Terriers get a face full of exhaust fumes?

 

[Midrsv]

Jerry,

 

I'll weigh in here. I've pulled a single wheel Unigo trailer about 15K miles. There is torque on the hitch and you can feel it when you lift the bike off the sidestand and when you ride through the twisties. As you transition from side to side you have to also swing the mass of the trailer. My hitch is a vertical reciever which gives me little to no slop in the left to right leaning motion. I had a friend weld a bead along the hitch insert and then we ground it to fit so there is no motion in either direction.

 

For photos of my trailer and the hitch connection go to: http://www.traynorphoto.com/unigo/

 

One concern I have for your trailer is the weight distribution. I'm not sure where you will position the wheel but if it is behind the box you are going to have significant tougne weight. My trailer weighs about 75 lbs empty and I generally carry about 50 lbs in it. I try to load all of the heavier stuff as far back as possible and I still get about 45 lbs at the tounge. About 1/3 of the total weight. I must tell you that causes me concern. In my opinion the hitch connection on the RSV is very weak. The structure that holds the hitch also supports the bags and trunk. That weight is static. Now consider you will occaisionally hit a bump or hole and if you consider that you will see dynamic shock of just 5 G's that will give you a dynamic load of nearly 250 lbs. And, if you consider that you have another 30 lbs or so in the bags and trunk thats another 150 lbs of dynamic force on the mounting system. I would feel better if I only had 10% to 15% of the weight on the tounge.

 

Where you notice the trailer the most is at parking lot speeds. You have to balance weight of the trailer in addition to the bike and riders. It's like carrying a third person. If you bobble your feet coming to a stop and let it get slightly off center it is very difficult to keep it up. I know, I've strained myself several times.

 

Now after all this, if I were buying a trailer again I would probably go with a 2 wheel trailer.

 

Your mileage may vary.

 

Dennis

[jarrejx]

Jerry,

 

I'll weigh in here. I've pulled a single wheel Unigo trailer about 15K miles. There is torque on the hitch and you can feel it when you lift the bike off the sidestand and when you ride through the twisties. As you transition from side to side you have to also swing the mass of the trailer. My hitch is a vertical reciever which gives me little to no slop in the left to right leaning motion. I had a friend weld a bead along the hitch insert and then we ground it to fit so there is no motion in either direction.

 

For photos of my trailer and the hitch connection go to: http://www.traynorphoto.com/unigo/

 

...In my opinion the hitch connection on the RSV is very weak...

Dennis

 

Thanx for weighing in Dennis, but believe me, you weighed in early on in my decision. You may or may not remember we PMed about my single wheel intentions earlier this year. You had sent me your Unigo pix when I first joined this site in 2008. I really like the idea of welding a bead along the side or sides of the hitch insert and grinding the bead(s) until a tight fit is achieved. It should produce a better result than the metal shims I was talking about earlier and eliminate the hassle of engaging and disengaging the "setscrew" in the fix I was planning.

 

I have indeed noticed the added weight of the trailer when lifting the bike off the kickstand, but it is negligible. Of course, I have not had the trailer fully loaded yet. I will do that this weekend, after hooking up all the LED lights, lining the box and painting the frame. I ride 1 up almost exclusively, as I have not yet gotten the Mrs. to buy into the joys of fishing and venturing without a cage, so only additional weight would come from the trailer and the saddlebag...most of which is below the bike's center of gravity. Therefore, weight distribution will be the key to maintaining good balance. Getting rid of the slack (slop) in the hitch receiver will also improve handling and reduce torque.

 

When you say the hitch connection on the RSV is very weak, have you noticed any bending, warping or other deformity in the structure of the hitch in your 15K miles of Unigo trailering? Thanx. I'll keep you posted with my findings and I hope you find the 2 wheel trailer that suits your riding style.

 

Jerry

[Midrsv]

 

 

Jerry, I've not noticed and ill effects of pulling the trailer. I do look at it often. The problem is we just don't know where the yield point is nor how much stress is actually be exerted on the system. The hitch mounting points just don't look to robust to me. I've compared it to a Honda GL1800 hitch and my friends Ultra Classic hitch. Both are much stronger connections. I think you could tow a travel trailer with the Harley if the motor would pull it.

 

Dennis

[Solodadof2]

Come on now with that!

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Jerry, after seeing that picture I have to say WOW.

 

When it comes to trailers, I'm in the camp that believes size matters, with smaller being better. I had no idea you were building a one-wheel 'moving van'!

 

I thought you were looking to build a small trailer, and so that is why I said things such as the hitch should be OK, and the 250# rated axle would be overkill. Now I retract all that and change my advise. If your going to be pulling THAT much cargo, you need a 2 wheel trailer.

 

One wheel trailers are for riders wanting to carry along a few extra items, not a whole closet full of stuff. I know you wont scrap this idea now, so all I can say is good luck. You will need it.

 

 

[jarrejx]

Jerry, after seeing that picture I have to say WOW.

 

When it comes to trailers, I'm in the camp that believes size matters, with smaller being better. I had no idea you were building a one-wheel 'moving van'!

 

I thought you were looking to build a small trailer, and so that is why I said things such as the hitch should be OK, and the 250# rated axle would be overkill. Now I retract all that and change my advise. If your going to be pulling THAT much cargo, you need a 2 wheel trailer.

 

One wheel trailers are for riders wanting to carry along a few extra items, not a whole closet full of stuff. I know you wont scrap this idea now, so all I can say is good luck. You will need it.

 

 

 

The size of the trailer did not change since I first described the box to you as 60x20x14 (inches) If my math is correct the box's storage capacity would be 10.6 cubic feet if it were a perfect rectangle. Since it has recessed areas as much as 10 inches on both ends, I estimate the capacity decreases by about 2.2 cubic feet. Maybe the pix make it look bigger. I also cut the tongue down by 12 inches since taking that pic. It actually is smaller than several of the Thule car top carriers I have seen placed upon single wheel frames.

 

I actually chose the box not so much for the size, as for the shape since most of my intended cargo will be fishing-related equipment, i.e., rods, electric trolling motor, nets and some light camping gear. As I said earlier, the entire trailer weighs 95 lbs. empty and when fully loaded, I expect no more than 175 lbs. and in most cases significantly less.

 

I plan to test it tomorrow with a full load and see how it handles. I am not adverse to scrapping any plan, no matter how far along, if it affects my ability to safely handle my bike.

 

Here are a couple of up to date pix of the trailer attached to the bike.

 

Thanx again,

 

Jerry

Edited April 14, 2010 by jarrejx
box doesn't weigh 95#, entire trailer does.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

The size of the trailer did not change since I first described the box to you as 60x20x14 (inches) If my math is correct the box's storage capacity would be 10.6 cubic feet if it were a perfect rectangle. Since it has recessed areas as much as 10 inches on both ends, I estimate the capacity decreases by about 2.2 cubic feet. Maybe the pix make it look bigger. I also cut the tongue down by 12 inches since taking that pic. It actually is smaller than several of the Thule car top carriers I have seen placed upon single wheel frames.

 

I actually chose the box not so much for the size, as for the shape since most of my intended cargo will be fishing-related equipment, i.e., rods, electric trolling motor, nets and some light camping gear. As I said earlier, the entire trailer weighs 95 lbs. empty and when fully loaded, I expect no more than 175 lbs. and in most cases significantly less.

 

I plan to test it tomorrow with a full load and see how it handles. I am not adverse to scrapping any plan, no matter how far along, if it affects my ability to safely handle my bike.

 

Here are a couple of up to date pix of the trailer attached to the bike.

 

Thanx again,

 

Jerry

 

It looks a bit better in the latest pics, but still...I have concerns.

 

I'm not trying to 'nanny' you, I just call 'em like I see 'em.

 

If you are not careful in loading you could end up with a tongue weight of around 80 pounds. I think the VentureDad Hitch is rated for 40 lbs... At the very least I would replace all bolts with grade 8 hardware, and locktite everything. Be sure to measure the tongue weight with the trailer loaded as you intend when traveling. Next, I'm worried about twisting forces if you get into a heavy sidewind...that slab sided toolbox will impart some strong torque to the bike. Third, and possibly the most worrisome I see in the design is possible fatigue along the drawbar and the joints it is attached to. I see that bar as flexing under the weight of a fully loaded box, and constantly flexing on bumps and potholes.

 

A fourth concern is that IF that front lid latch fails, and they do, that lid will be blown right off the bike at high speed, or impart some 'aero-braking' if its doesnt.

 

 

I would like to suggest an alternative.

 

Think about a smaller box, much smaller, mounted at the rear, to hold all the misc items, and maybe a tube or rack or net of some kind to hold the longer items.

 

Just a thought.

 

[ctraylor]

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs124.snc1/5333_126247972121_832227121_2291135_433058_n.jpg

Here is mine and I have pulled it about 5000 miles and pulls great.

Edited April 15, 2010 by ctraylor
Adding text

[jarrejx]

Here is mine and I have pulled it about 5000 miles and pulls great.

 

 

What is the size of your box and your tongue weight under normal load? I know you have a different hitch system but thought it might give me a gauge by which to measure mine. Thanx for sharing your experiences.

 

Jerry

[Freebird]

For any of you who are worried about the hitch strength, mounting points, etc. There is an alternative. The hitches that most of us here use simple replace the bar between the saddle bags. I think it is more than sufficient for most of us. If you are pulling a heavier trailer though and think that something stronger is needed, there is the HitchDoc hitch. It mounts completely differently and I think is a much stronger design. I think it is overkill for what most of us need and is more difficult to install but maybe a better choice for some with very heavy trailers.

[Brake Pad]

I bought the Hitch doc, for both of my bikes.

the 04 Roadstar & The Venture